Features of the atmospheric boundary layer block for three versions of the WAM wind wave model

The estimated characteristics of the atmospheric boundary layer, obtained by the simulation of wind wave fields using three versions of the WAM numerical model are compared with the well-known empirical dependences of drag coefficient C _d on wind speed U ₁₀ and wave age A, as well as with the dependence of dimensionless roughness height z _n on inverse wave age u*/с р. Calculations carried out for several years in the areas of the Pacific and Indian oceans, based on the ERA-interim and CFSR wind reanalyses have shown good agreement between the model and empirical dependences C _d (U ₁₀) and C _d (A). The range of estimated variability for z _n (u*/с _р ) has been found to be significantly less than empirical. It has been also found that estimated values of wind speed U _10W (t) are overestimated from 5 to 10% in all versions of WAM models compared with the input wind reanalysis U _10R (t) at the moments of appearance maximum values of wind U _10R (t). The reasons for the established features of the WAM model and their dependence on the model version are discussed.     

Confirmation of beach accretion by grain-size trend analysis: Camposoto beach, Cádiz, SW Spain

An application of the grain size trend analysis (GSTA) is used in an exploratory approach to characterize sediment transport on Camposoto beach (Cádiz, SW Spain). In May 2009 the mesotidal beach showed a well-developed swash bar on the upper foreshore, which was associated with fair-weather conditions prevailing just before and during the field survey. The results were tested by means of an autocorrelation statistical test (index I of Moran). Two sedimentological trends were recognized, i.e. development towards finer, better sorted and more negatively skewed sediment (FB–), and towards finer, better sorted and less negatively or more positively skewed sediment (FB+). Both vector fields were compared with results obtained from more classical approaches (sand tracers, microtopography and current measurements). This revealed that both trends can be considered as realistic, the FB+ trend being identified for the first time in a beach environment. The data demonstrate that, on the well-developed swash bar, sediment transported onshore becomes both finer and better sorted towards the coast. On the lower foreshore, which exhibits a steeper slope produced by breaking waves, the higher-energy processes winnow out finer particles and thereby produce negatively skewed grain-size distributions. The upper foreshore, which has a flatter and smoother slope, is controlled by lower-energy swash-backwash and overwash processes. As a result, the skewness of the grain-size distributions evolves towards less negative or more positive values. The skewness parameter appears to be distributed as a function of the beach slope and, thus, reflects variations in hydrodynamic energy. This has novel implications for coastal management.

Time series changes in sea-surface temperature,chlorophyll <Emphasis Type="Italic">a</Emphasis>, nutrients,and sea-wind in the East/Japan Sea on the left- and right-hand sides of typhoon shanshan’s track

Time series changes in sea surface temperature (SST), chlorophyll a (Chl a), nutrients (PO₄, NO₃), and sea winds, which correlated with the passage of Typhoon Shanshan in the East/Japan Sea (EJS), are illustrated using satellite data for Chl a, SST, sea winds, and in situ data for nutrients and water temperature. The sea-surface cooling (SSC) effect by the passage of the typhoon was higher at stations nearer to the center compared to stations further from the center. The SSC effect at stations in the colder water region (on the left side of the typhoon’s track) was higher than at stations in the Tsushima Warm Current region (on the right side of the typhoon). The SSC effect continued for approximately 10 days after the passage of the typhoon. The Chl a concentration at all stations increased after the passage of the typhoon. This increase continued for a period of approximately 10 days, but the duration period at each station varied with distance from the typhoon center. Changes in Chl concentrations at stations within a 2° distance on both sides from the typhoon’s center were higher than that at other stations. The changes in Chl a by the passage of the typhoon were measured at approximately 0.3–1.0 mg/m³ along the moving path of the typhoon. Phosphate and nitrate changes were inversely correlated with the water temperature changes; the nutrient concentration increased with the passage of the typhoon. Like the changes in SST, changes in nutrient concentrations on the left side of the typhoon’s track were higher compared to those at the center and the right side.     

Studying the sea surface slopes using an array of wave gauge sensors

The deviations of the marine surface slope spectra (measured using an array of wave gauge sensors) from the theoretical estimates obtained using the linear spectral model of the wave field are analyzed. It has been indicated that the average measured full slope spectra (the sum of the slope component spectra in the orthogonal directions) is higher than the theoretical estimates by 6% at frequencies from the surface wave spectral peak (f _m ) to 4.5 f _m . The difference between the measured and theoretical estimates of the full slope spectrum rapidly increases at frequencies of f < f _m . At f _m ≈ 0.75 f _m , the average measured full slope spectrum is higher than the theoretical estimate by a factor of more than 5.     

Generation mechanism of an alongshore bar on a sandy beach slope

A model explaining the mechanism of alongshore bar formation from the point of view of the sediment balance in the surf zone is considered. A cloud of suspended matter that appears during wave breaking is transported shoreward and simultaneously sediments forming a vertical material flux directed to the bottom (S). Simultaneously, an undertow generates a horizontal offshore flux of suspended matter q _x . Under these conditions, the sediment balance is determined by the equality of the flux -S and the gradient dq _x /dx. The bottom profile satisfying the balance equation is a bar profile with the crest at the point of the flux maximum -S. The model predicts a concave profile of the seaside slope and a concave-convex profile of the slope in the trough. A conclusion is reached on the basis of the calibration and verification of the model based on the field data that the suggested mechanism manifests itself differently in the outer and inner zones of the coastal zone. In the inner zone, the horizontal size of the bar is determined by the length of short wind waves, while, in the outer one, it is determined by the length of the infragravity waves related to the groups of short waves. It is shown that the model can be applied to estimate the parameters of the largest bar in the inner part of the coastal zone.     

Effects of temperature on growth,photophysiology, Rubisco gene expression in <Emphasis Type="Italic">Prorocentrum donghaiense</Emphasis> and <Emphasis Type="Italic">Karenia mikimotoi</Emphasis>

To explore the effects of temperature changes on dinoflagellate bloom succession in the coastal waters of the East China Sea, changes in the growth, photophysiology, and Rubisco gene expression of Prorocentrum donghaiense and Karenia mikimotoi, two harmful algal species, were investigated at different temperatures (16 to 28°C). The maximal specific growth rate and the maximal mRNA expression of Rubisco gene in P. donghaiense and K. mikimotoi occurred at 20 and 24°C, respectively. The photosynthetic activity of P. donghaiense was generally stable, but K. mikimotoi photosynthesis increased when temperatures rose from 16 to 28°C. The effective photochemical efficiency (F _q ^′ /F _m ^′ ) and the maximal relative electron transfer rate (rETR_max) of K. mikimotoi increased significantly with increasing temperature, and the lowest and highest values occurred at 16 and 28°C, respectively. It seems that P. donghaiense has higher photosynthetic capacity than K. mikimotoi due to its higher F _q ^′ /F _m ^′ , rETR_max, and photosynthetic efficiency (α). However, K. mikimotoi has a higher growth rate than P. donghaiense. These results suggest that the photosynthetic activity and genetic responses of dinoflagellates are species-dependent. It is likely that temperature changes affect species composition during blooms, leading to the observed patterns of bloom succession.     

Ultimate Lateral Capacity of Rigid Pile in <Emphasis Type="Italic">c</Emphasis>–<Emphasis Type="Italic">φ</Emphasis> Soil

To date no analytical solution of the pile ultimate lateral capacity for the general c–φ soil has been obtained. In the present study, a new dimensionless embedded ratio was proposed and the analytical solutions of ultimate lateral capacity and rotation center of rigid pile in c–φ soils were obtained. The results showed that both the dimensionless ultimate lateral capacity and dimensionless rotation center were the univariate functions of the embedded ratio. Also, the ultimate lateral capacity in the c–φ soil was the combination of the ultimate lateral capacity (f _c ) in the clay, and the ultimate lateral capacity (f _φ ) in the sand. Therefore, the Broms chart for clay, solution for clay (φ=0) put forward by Poulos and Davis, solution for sand (c=0) obtained by Petrasovits and Awad, and Kondner’s ultimate bending moment were all proven to be the special cases of the general solution in the present study. A comparison of the field and laboratory tests in 93 cases showed that the average ratios of the theoretical values to the experimental value ranged from 0.85 to 1.15. Also, the theoretical values displayed a good agreement with the test values.     

Determining the influence of wind-wave breaking on the dissipation of the turbulent kinetic energy in the upper ocean and on the dependence of the turbulent kinetic energy on the stage of wind-wave development

New experimental data that make it possible to explain and predict the observed variability of turbulent-energy dissipation in the upper ocean are discussed. For this purpose, the dependence of the energy dissipation rate of breaking wind waves on their propagation velocity (see [1]) is used. The turbulent-energy dissipation values obtained earlier in [2, 3] by a direct method are compared to the results of radar measurements of individual breaking events presented in [1]. On the basis of this comparison, a strong dependence of the turbulent-energy dissipation value on the stage of wind-wave development, which is characterized by the ratio U _a /c _p (U _a is the wind speed and c _p is the phase speed of the peak of the wind-wave spectrum) is confirmed. This dependence was found earlier purely empirically. Moreover, it is shown that the theoretically obtained dependence (c _p /U _a )⁴, does not contradict the available empirical data. The results of this study opens possibilities for scientifically substantiated calculations of greenhouse-gas exchange (specifically, CO₂ exchange between the ocean and the atmosphere).     

斜向波浪作用下双层水平板式防波堤波浪荷载试验研究

In this study, systematic physical model tests were performed to investigate the wave forces on the twin-plate breakwater under irregular waves. Based on the experimental results, the effects of the relative plate width B/L,wave height Hs/D and incident angle θ0 on the wave forces were analyzed and discussed. The results showed that:(1) The envelopes of the total wave pressure were generally symmetrical along the direction of plate width under the incident angles(θ0) being 0°, 15°, 30°, 45° and 60°. In particular, the envelopes of wave pressure atθ0=30° were larger than all other cases.(2) The synchronous pressure distribution of the breakwater under oblique wave action was more complicated comparing to the normal incident waves.(3) Based on data analysis, an empirical formula was obtained to estimate the total vertical force of the twin-plate breakwater.This empirical formula can be a good reference for the design basis of engineering applications under specified wave conditions.     

High mortality and poor growth of green mussels, <Emphasis Type="Italic">Perna viridis</Emphasis>, in high chlorophyll-<Emphasis Type="Italic">a</Emphasis> environment

The current study was carried out from May 2014 to April 2015 to estimate the stock status of P. viridis in Marudu Bay. The gonad development was monitored by histological examination, while the population parameters including asymptotic length (L_∞), growth coefficient (K), mortality rate (Z, F and M), exploitation level (E) and recruitment of P. viridis were estimated using the lengthfrequency data. Results of the current study demonstrated that P. viridis in Marudu Bay spawned throughout the year with two major peaks, one in April to May and another one in October to December. The recruitment pattern was continuous with the peak in May to June 2014, which corresponded to the first spawning peak in April. However, no significant recruitment was observed from the second spawning peak due to the difference in spawning timing between male and female populations. The estimated asymptotic length (L_∞), growth coefficient (K), total mortality (Z), natural mortality (M), fishing mortality (F) and growth performance (ф) of P. viridis in Marudu Bay were estimate to be 117 mm, 0.97 yr^-1, 4.39 yr^-1, 1.23 yr^-1, 3.16 yr^-1 and 4.123, respectively. The exponent b of the lengthweight relationship was 2.4 and exploitation level (E) was 0.72. The high mortality, low condition indices and negative allometric of P. viridis in Marudu Bay is caused by a lack of suitable food in the surrounding water.     

Age determination and growth rate of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Mactra chinensis</Emphasis> (Bivalvia: Mactridae) by external rings and chondrophore growth bands

Age, growth and mortality of Mactra chinensis were investigated during the period from October 2012 to September 2013 in Busan, South Korea. The monthly variation of the marginal index (MI) of the shell and chondrophore showed that the ring of this species was formed once a year during July. We estimated the age of M. chinensis by reading the external rings on the shell and the growth bands of the chondrophore to compare growth parameters between the two growth characters. The age of this species ranged from 0 to 8 years (shell-based age reading) and from 0 to 10 years (chondrophore-based age reading). Based on external rings and growth bands of chondrophore for the same period, the von Bertalanffy growth functions were expressed by the equation, L _t = 101.53[1-exp {-0.15(t + 0.75)}] and L _t = 90.03[1-exp {-0.20(t + 0.50)}], respectively. The likelihood test showed that there was a significant difference in L _∞ (P < 0.001), K (P < 0.001), to (P < 0.001) estimated from non-linear regression between the two growth characters.     

Experimental Study on Crescent Waves Diffracted by A Circular Cylinder

Crescent waves often observed on the sea surface are unusual wave pattern induced by the instability of Stokes wave. The paper presents the experimental results of the wave field around a circular cylinder generated by the diffraction of crescent wave in order to examine the difference of diffracted crescent waves from the commonly-used diffracted Stokes waves. The results show that with the existence of the cylinder, the crescent wave pattern can still get fully developed, and with the presence of this type of wave pattern, the symmetry breaking of the wave amplitude distribution occurs and there are extra wave components at the frequencies of 0.5ω₀, 1.5ω₀ and 2.5ω₀ (ω₀ is the frequency of Stokes waves) appearing in the wave amplitude spectrum.     

Wave Activity and Its Changes in the Troposphere and Stratosphere of the Northern Hemisphere in Winters of 1979–2016

An analysis of spectra of wave disturbances with zonal wave numbers 1 ≤ k ≤ 10 is carried out using winter (November to March) ERA-Interim reanalysis geopotential data in the troposphere and stratosphere for 1979–2016. Contributions of eastward-traveling (E), westward-traveling (W), and stationary (S) waves are estimated. The intensification of wave activity is observed in the tropical troposphere and stratosphere and in the upper stratosphere of the entire Northern Hemisphere. The intensification of wave activity in the tropics and subtropics is noted for waves of all types (E, W, and S), while in the middle and higher latitudes it is related mainly to stationary and eastward waves. Near the subtropical tropopause, the energy of stationary waves has increased in recent decades. In addition, in the tropical and subtropical troposphere and in the subtropical lower stratosphere, the energy of the eastward-traveling waves in El Niño years may be one and a half times or twice the energy in La Niña years. The spectrally weighted zonal wave numbers for waves of all types (E, W, and S) are the largest in the upper subtropical troposphere. The spectrally weighted zonal wave number for W and S waves is correlated with the Atlantic Multidecadal Oscillation index and varies by 15% in 1979–2016 (on an interdecadal time scale). The spectrally weighted wave period is larger in the stratosphere than in the troposphere. It is maximal in the middle extratropical stratosphere. The spectrally weighted wave periods correlate with the activity of sudden stratospheric warmings. The sign of this correlation depends on the latitude, atmospheric layer, and zonal wave number.     

Oceanic processes of upper ocean heat content associated with two types of ENSO

The spatiotemporal variability of equatorial Pacific upper ocean heat content (HC) and subsurface heat during two types of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO), namely eastern and central Pacific (EP and CP) types, is investigated using subsurface ocean heat budget analysis. Results show that HC tendencies during both types of ENSO are mainly controlled by oceanic heat advection beneath the mixed layer to the thermocline, and the role of net surface heat flux can be neglected. The most important three terms are the zonal and vertical advections of anomalous heat by climatological currents (QU ₀ T′, QW ₀ T′) and zonal advection of climatological heat by anomalous current (QU′T ₀). The large contribution of QU ₀ T′ extends from west to east along the equatorial Pacific. The considerable contribution of QU′T ₀ is confined to the east of 160°W, and that of the QW ₀ T′ is observed in the central Pacific between 180°E and 120°W. In particular, a major contribution of QW ₀ T′ is also observed in the far eastern Pacific east of 100°W during EP ENSO. There is also a small contribution from meridional advection of climatological heat by anomalous current (QV′T ₀). In contrast, the meridional advection of anomalous heat by climatological currents (QV ₀ T′) and vertical advection of climatological heat by anomalous current (QW′T ₀) are two damping factors in the HC tendency, with the former dominating. Differences in spatial distribution of the heat advection associated with the two types of ENSO are also presented. We define a warm water heat index (WWH) as integrated heat content above 26 kg m^?3 potential density (26σ _? ) isopycnal depth within 130°E–80°W and 5°S–5°N. Further examination suggests that the recharge–discharge of WWH is involved in both types of El Niño, though with some differences. First, it takes about 42 (55) months for the evolution of a recharge–discharge cycle during an EP (CP) ENSO. Second, the EP El Niño event peaks during the discharge phase, 7–8 months after the recharge time. The CP El Niño peaks during the recharge phase, 4–5 months before the recharge time. The locations of HC anomalies in the El Niño mature phase relative to those at recharged time explain why the EP and CP El Niño peak in different stages of the recharge–discharge process.     

Seasonal dynamics and estimation of the annual primary production of phytoplankton in the Black Sea

Seasonal variations in the surface chlorophyll a concentrations (Chl _s) and the integrated primary production (PP _inf) were investigated for ten regions of the Black Sea based on long term observations (1973–1997). Two or three maximums of both Chl _s and PP _inf were registered in most of the shelf regions (SR, <200 m), the continental slope (CS, 200–1500 m), and the deep regions (DSR >1500 m) in February–March, June–August, and October–November. Such a pattern suggests that the seasonal dynamics of PP _inf strongly depend on the Chl _s variability. The mean annual values of the PP _inf comprised 130–420, 130–150, and 140–150 g C m^?2 in the SR, CS, and DSR, respectively. These values are mainly typical of the eutrophic layer and the transition between the eutrophic and mesotrophic waters (SR) or for the upper boundary of the mesotrophic waters (CS and DSR). The maximal contribution of the wintertime (December–March) to the total PP _inf values (40–42%) was observed in the DSR. In the SR and the adjacent eastern CS areas, the proportion of the PP _inf summertime production (June–September) reaches 40–60% and is higher than the wintertime production. The lowest values of PP _inf (9–17%) were produced in the spring and autumn periods. The total annual values of PP _inf in the Black Sea are close to 50–70 Mt C.     

C波段紧缩极化SAR海冰探测能力评估

The C-band synthetic aperture radar(SAR) data from the Bohai Sea of China, the Labrador Sea in the Arctic and the Weddell Sea in the Antarctic are used to analyze and discuss the sea ice full polarimetric information reconstruction ability under compact polarimetric modes. The type of compact polarimetric mode which has the highest reconstructed accuracy is analyzed, along with the performance impact of the reconstructed pseudo quad-pol SAR data on the sea ice detection and sea ice classification. According to the assessment and analysis, it is recommended to adopt the CTLR mode for reconstructing the polarimetric parameters σ_(HH)~0,σ_(VV)~0, H and α,while for reconstructing the polarimetric parameters σ_(HV)~0, ρ_(H-V), λ_1 and λ_2, it is recommended to use the π/4 mode.Moreover, it is recommended to use the π/4 mode in studying the action effects between the electromagnetic waves and sea ice, but it is recommended to use the CTLR mode for studying the sea ice classification.     

Using the acoustic-pulse conservation law in estimating the energy of surface acoustic sources by remote sounding

The atmospheric effect on the characteristics of infrasonic signals from explosions has been studied. New methods have been proposed to remotely estimate the energy of explosions using the data of infrasonic wave registration. One method is based on the law of conservation of acoustic pulse I, which is equal to the product of the wave profile area S/2 of the studied infrasonic signal and the distance to the source E_I [kt] = 1.38 × 10^–10 (I [kg/s])^1.482. The second method is based on the relationship between the explosion energy and the dominant period T of the recorded signal, EТ [kt] =1.02 × (Т [s]²/σ)^3/2, where σ is a dimensionless distance used for determining the degree of manifestation of nonlinear effects in the propagation of sound along ray trajectories. When compared to the conventional E_W (Whitaker’s) relation, the advantage of the EI relation is that it can be used for pulsed sources located at an arbitrary height over the land surface and having an arbitrary form of the initial-pulse profile and for any type of infrasonic arrivals. A distinctive feature of the expression for E_Т is that the atmospheric effect on the characteristics of recorded infrasonic signals is explicitly taken into account. These methods have been tested using infrasonic data recorded at a distance of 322 km from the sources (30 explosions caused by a fire that occurred at the Pugachevo armory in Udmurtia on June 2, 2011). For the same explosion, empirical relations have been found between energy values obtained by different methods: E_I = 1.107 × E _W , E _Т = 2.201 × E _I .     

Seasonal and Interannual Variations of Heat Fluxes in the Barents Sea Region

Seasonal and interannual variations in adjective heat fluxes in the ocean (dQ_oc) and the convergence of advective heat fluxes in the atmosphere (dQ_atm) in the Barents Sea region have been investigated over the period of 1993–2012 using the results of the MIT regional eddy-permitting model and ERA-Interim atmospheric reanalysis. Wavelet analysis and singular spectrum analysis are used to reveal concealed periodicities. Seasonal 2- to 4- and 5- to 8-year cycles are revealed in the dQ_oc and dQ_atm data. It is also found that seasonal variations in dQ_oc are primarily determined by the integrated volume fluxes through the western boundary of the Barents Sea, whereas the 20-year trend is determined by the temperature variation of the transported water. A cross-wavelet analysis of dQ_oc and dQ_atm in the Barents Sea region shows that the seasonal variations in dQ_oc and dQ_atm are nearly in-phase, while their interannual variations are out-of-phase. It is concluded that the basin of the Barents Sea plays an important role in maintaining the feedback mechanism (the Bjerknes compensation) of the ocean–atmosphere system in the Arctic region.     

Effect of the nonlinear interaction of tidal harmonics on their spatial structure as applied to the system of the white and Barents Seas

Using the three-dimensional nonlinear finite-element thermohydrodynamic model QUODDY-4, we obtain two solutions giving an idea of the role of the nonlinear interaction of tidal harmonics in the formation of their spatial structure. The first solution is induced by the total tide (M ₂ + S ₂ + K ₁ + O ₁) at the open boundary and by the total static tide inside the area under consideration; then, the solution obtained is subject to harmonic analysis. The second solution is obtained by specifying such tidal sea level elevations at the open boundary that meet individual tidal harmonics. These two solutions are compared. It is shown that the differences between the solutions for the S ₂, K ₁, and O ₁ waves can be significant, especially near the open boundary between the White and Barents seas. This conclusion remains valid also for the maximum velocities (major semiaxes of the ellipses) of the barotropic (depth-average) tidal current as well as for the average (over the tidal cycle) densities of the total tidal energy and components of the tidal-energy budget. The emergence of this feature indicates that there are resonance modes with frequencies that differ from those of the S ₂, K ₁, and O ₁ harmonics to a lesser extent than the M ₂ harmonic frequency. The same conclusion can be made by comparing the values of the amplification factor, which is defined as the ratio between the actual and static tides, for the system of the Barents and White seas as a whole and for Mezen Bay in the White Sea and Czech Bay in the Barents Sea, taken separately.