波浪谱形对不规则波数值模拟的影响

通过数值模拟分析了波浪谱形对不规则波浪数值模拟结果的影响.采用不同参数的JONSWAP谱模拟入射波要素,基于抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪的传播,分析了波浪谱形状对波浪数值模拟结果的影响.结果表明,采用抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪时,入射波浪谱形对模拟结果影响不明显;但由于模型中非线性项的影响,采用不规则波模拟的波高分布和采用规则波模拟的结果略有差别.     

基于海浪谱的海浪视景仿真技术

海浪的视景仿真有重要的应用背景与军事意义。文中围绕如何解决海浪的实时视景仿真问题,讨论了基于海浪谱的不同浪级波面的仿真模型,并讨论了海浪的实时视景仿真实现技术。这些模型与技术对于提高海浪仿真实时性与真实性有一定的参考价值。     

礁坪上波浪传播的数值模拟

本文基于具备间断捕捉能力的二阶全非线性Boussinesq数值模型,对规则波和随机波在礁坪地形上的传播变形进行了数值模拟。该模型采用高阶有限体积法和有限差分方法求解守恒格式的控制方程,将波浪破碎视为间断,同时采用静态重构技术处理了海岸动边界问题。重点针对礁坪上波浪传播过程中的波高空间分布和沿程衰减,礁坪上的平均水位变化,以及波浪能量频谱的移动和空间差异等典型水动力现象开展数值计算。将数值结果与实验结果对比,两者吻合情况良好,验证了模型具有良好的稳定性,具备模拟破碎波浪和海-岸动边界的能力,能较为准确地模拟波浪在礁坪地形上的传播过程中发生的各种水动力现象。     

Wave group statistics from numerical simulations of a random sea

Two commonly used methods of simulating random time series, given a target power spectrum, are discussed. Wave group statistics, such as the mean length of runs of high waves, produced by the different simulation schemes are compared. The target spectra used are obtained from ocean measurements, and cover a wide range of ocean conditions. For a sufficiently large number of spectral components, no significant differences are found in the wave group statistics produced by the two simulation techniques.     

基于波谱密度特性的海浪仿真研究

基于密闭液体的体积变化导致压力变化的特性,研制出了一种高响应、高精度的海浪仿真器,能够模拟海浪对任意水深处的影响作用。在保持微小频率段内总能量相等的条件下,通过规则波的合成,获得了描述已知波谱密度的海浪,并由海浪仿真器模拟出了任意水深处所受到的海浪作用,频谱分析表明模拟海浪具有与真实海浪相一致的波谱密度特性。     

基于实测数据的台湾海峡中部波浪特征分析 *

利用台湾海峡中部2号大浮标2017年全年的实测波浪资料, 对海浪的基本波要素及其与风的相关性、波谱特性进行统计分析, 得出了重要特征波参数之间的回归关系和适合台湾海峡中部的海浪谱形式。研究结果显示: 1) 台湾海峡中部的常浪向是NE向, 强浪向是NNE向, 月均有效波高的变化范围为0.87~2.98m, 7月波高最小, 12月波高最大, 波周期与波高有着相似的月际变化趋势; 2) 主要波浪类型是以风浪为主的混合浪, 谱型上以单峰为主, 波高与风速整体上呈正相关关系, 大浪主要由台风和强劲的东北季风引起; 3) 波浪的平均周期与大部分特征波周期之间具有良好的线性相关性, NNE、NE方向的波浪有效波高和有效波周期线性相关性较强; 4) 相比于Jonswap谱, 规范谱一是更符合本区域的海浪谱模式, 给出了基于有效波高和谱峰周期拟合的规范谱一形式。这些研究成果可为海洋工程设计和波浪数值模拟提供参考。     

Composite Type Wind Wave Frequency Spectrum

Based on the P-M spectrum and improved theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum, this paper presents the composite type wind wave frequency spectrum, which is given by 2 pieces and satisfies 4 conditions: the spectrum peak passes through a given point; spectral area m0 and significant wave height H have the relationship H = 4.0 ; at the piecewise point, the values of spectrum and slope are contin-     

Numerical Simulation of Multi-Directional Random Seas

Multi-directional irregular waves are simulated on the basis of the given directional spectrum using a double summation model, a single direction per frequency model and a single summation model. Their results are compared. It is shown that the single direction per frequency model proposed in this paper can generate a realistic wave field. The effects of the model parameters on the simulated results are also studied in this paper and corresponding suggestions are given.     

三维波峰的数值模拟

给出了三维波峰的定义,描述了波峰临界值的确定过程,分析了三维随机海浪的方向谱和三维随机海浪的数学描述,在MATLAB环境下设计了随机海面波峰的数值模拟程序,并给出了深水波峰的三维空间模型及其在不同方向传播参数和不同方向函数下平面分布的变化。     

波浪水槽中随机波的模拟

根据线性系统理论,首先由给定的靶谱模拟海浪信号,再把此信号转换为造波控制输入信号,最后在水槽中指定的截面处产生具有给定靶谱的随机波。这种模拟方法已在青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室的大型水槽中实现,并取得良好的效果。     

Satellite-based RAR performance simulation for measuring directional ocean wave spectrum based on SAR inversion spectrum

Some missions have been carried out to measure wave directional spectrum by synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and airborne real aperture radar (RAR) at a low incidence. Both them have their own advantages and limitations. Scientists hope that SAR and satellite-based RAR can complement each other for the research on wave properties in the future. For this study, the authors aim to simulate the satellite-based RAR system to validate performance for measuring the directional wave spectrum. The principal measurements are introduced and the simulation methods based on the one developed by Hauser are adopted and slightly modified. To enhance the authenticity of input spectrum and the wave spectrum measuring consistency for SAR and satellite-based RAR, the wave height spectrum inversed from Envisat ASAR data by cross spectrum technology is used as the input spectrum of the simulation system. In the process of simulation, the sea surface, backscattering signal, modulation spectrum and the estimated wave height spectrum are simulated in each look direction. Directional wave spectrum are measured based on the simulated observations from 0° to 360°. From the estimated wave spectrum, it has an 180° ambiguity like SAR, but it has no special high wave number cut off in all the direction. Finally, the estimated spectrum is compared with the input one in terms of the dominant wave wavelength, direction and SWH and the results are promising. The simulation shows that satellite-based RAR should be capable of measuring the directional wave properties. Moreover, it indicates satellite-based RAR basically can measure waves that SAR can measure.     

运动物体生成内波的一类非线性谱方程组

本文给出了由运动物体所生成内波的基本方程组和对应的谱方程组。该方程组的线性部分是一具有体积源 (其下简称为体源 )的 Sturm- Liouville本征值问题 ,而它的非线性部分是由体源与线性波场相互作用的谱表示。在这类强迫方程的源项中包含了 10类内波谱 ,这些谱最终均可利用内波的振幅谱表示。本文给出了线性波场波要素的谱表示和运动物体生成内波的非线性谱方程可解性的讨论。为了检验所得到的谱方程组 ,文中又进行了该谱方程组线性部分的数值计算。     

波谱仪调制功率谱估计算法性能的仿真研究

基于星载波谱仪海浪方向谱探测原理,仿真了不同海况、风速下的海浪波谱仪接收信号,并采用周期图法、Welch法、AR模型法以及最小方差法共4种不同的调制谱估计方法反演出海浪谱,比较各种调制谱估计方法的海浪方向谱反演性能。仿真结果表明:对于一定方位向下的一维海浪谱反演,不同调制谱估计方法反演海浪谱性能优劣没有绝对的顺序。对于二维海浪谱反演,在成长中海浪条件下周期图法反演性能最差,其他3种方法的反演性能没有绝对优劣顺序;对于成熟风浪,最小方差法在积分能量误差、有效波高误差两个指标上的反演性能最好,在主波波向、主波波长误差上,周期图法反演性能最差,其他3种方法没有绝对优劣顺序。在涌浪条件下,AR模型法反演性能优于其他3种方法。在不同海况下,随着波谱仪中心入射角的下降,反演性能会下降。基于这些仿真结果,本文推荐最小方差法作为充分成长海浪的海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法,AR模型法作为涌浪海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法。     

A Study on the Spectral Form of Nearshore Water Waves

- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data.     

The physical simulation of wave groups and their variations in a wave flume

The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given.     

海浪方向谱的现场观测与分析

方向谱是海浪的基本性质之一。本文在国内首次采用测波仪阵列法在渤海采油平台上成功地观测到海浪方向谱，给出了当地随波浪成长而变化的方向谱表达式。观测前采用数模和模型试验方法，对阵列的布置型式、测波仪间距和平台等对观测结果的影响，以及现有各种方向谱分析方法的精度等进行了对比分析，为提高观测精度，保证方向谱分析的质量提供了依据。     

Estimation of JONSWAP Spectral Parameters by Using Measured Wave Data

- This paper presents the method of determining JONSWAP spectrum by using measured wave data. If Hs, Tz and Tc are the measured significant wave height, average zero-up crossing wave period and average period between wave crests respectively and let y = T Z / TC; this paper provides equation to solve y fromf(y,y) = 0. From the solutions of this equation and by using LSM, the expression relating y as a function of y (for 2.54相似文献   

Numerical Simulation of Wave Height and Wave Set-Up in Nearshore Regions

Based on the time dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation, and then a practical method for the simulation of wave height and wave set-up in nearshore regions is presented. The variation of the complex wave amplitude is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The components of wave radiation stress are calculated subsequently by new expressions for them according to the obtained complex wave amplitude, and then the depth-averaged equation is applied to the calculation of wave set-up due to wave breaking. Numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data, showing that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable and that the new method is effective for the simulation of wave set-up due to wave breaking in nearshore regions.     

Efficient Simulation of Freak Waves in Random Oceanic Sea States

Numerical simulations of freak wave generation are studied in random oceanic sea states described by JONSWAP spectrum.The evolution of initial random wave trains is numerically carried out within the framework of the modified fourorder nonlinear Schruedinger equation (mNLSE),and some involved influence factors are also discussed.Results show that if the sideband instability is satisfied,a random wave train may evolve into a freak wave train,and simultaneously the setting of the Phillips parameter and enhancement coefficient of JONSWAP spectrum and initial random phases is very important for the formation of freak waves.The way to increase the generation efficiency of freak waves thsough changing the involved parameters is also presented.     

A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.