Long-Term Joint Distribution of One-Tenth Large (or Significant) Wave Height with Average Period

- In this paper, by using the wave data from a few oceanographic observation stations in the coastal zone of the Yellow Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea, the long-term joint distribution of the one-tenth large (or significant) wave height with average period is studied. The statistical data demonstrate that the long- term distribution of the one- tenth wave height or average period fits the log-normal distribution, thus the joint distribution also fits the two-dimensional log-normal distribution. Then the conditional probability distribution of the average period is derived, and the range as well as the mode of the average wave period corresponding to a certain return period of wave height can be calculated easily.     

海浪谱型对最大波高估算的影响研究

无论是对于各种涉海水工建筑物的设计还是对于它们的防护而言,最大波高的预测都是非常重要的工作。目前常用的海浪预报模式多以相位平均模型为主,其能直接给出的计算结果是海浪谱,因此基于海浪谱给出合理的最大波高估算具有重要的意义。前人对波陡、谱宽等参数对最大波高公式的影响都有了较为清楚的认知,然而相关研究大多围绕单峰谱开展,尚没有考虑包括双峰谱在内的海浪谱型最大波高公式的影响。本文首先探讨了海浪谱对最大波高的影响特性,进而提出了海浪谱谱型的参数化定义,最后给出了考虑谱型因子的最大波高公式。     

基于危险率分析的风浪联合重现期研究

采用二维逻辑冈贝尔分布,基于工程使用期和危险率,提出海洋工程结构设计过程中海洋环境要素(风速和波高)联合重现期的确定方法,并且以某海区资料为例,介绍基于危险率分析的风浪联合重现期分析过程.通过此例,在考虑工程使用期和危险率的基础上进行联合重现期的计算使海洋工程结构物设计过程中重现期的选取更加合理,安全性以及投资建造成本更加明确.     

Modified Joint Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods

The modified versions of the linear theoretical model of Longuet-Higgins (1983) are derived in this work and also compared with the laboratory experiments carried out in MARINTEK. The main feature of modifications is to replace the mean frequency in the formulation with the peak frequency of the wave spectrum. These two alternative forms of joint distributions are checked in three typical random sea states characterized by the initial wave steepness. In order to further explore the properties of these models, the associated marginal distributions of wave heights and wave periods are also researched with the observed statistics and some encouraging results are obtained.     

大西洋波高熵的分布变化规律研究

使用1992年10月-1998年12月连续75个月、230个重复周期的Topex／Poseidon卫星高度计有效波高资料，对南北大西洋波高熵的空间分布特征和时间变化规律进行了研究，统计分析了大西洋波高熵的多年的空间分布特征和多年各月的时间变化规律。结果表明，大西洋波高熵呈现出中间低、南北高的马鞍形空间分布特征和明显季节变化的规律，与大西洋的平均有效波高、气候的地理分布以及大气活动分布特征和变化规律相一致。     

Height and period distributions of extreme waves

The paper derives probability distributions for height and period for the highest wave occurring at a fixed location when the sea state varies. Short-term distributions of height and period are derived using a data base of waverider data from the Norwegian Sea. The derived theoretical relationships are illustrated by various examples of measured long-term statistics of the sea state.     

基于X波段雷达海面波高估计的改进方法

船用X波段导航雷达凹波形成的海杂波图像中包含丰富的海浪、海表层流信息.借鉴合成孔径雷达(SAR)估计有效波高的方法,假设有效波高与雷达回波强度信噪比的平方根成线性关系,可由X波段雷达图像估计得到海浪的有效波高.用此方法主要分析小麦岛海域实验数据,结果显示,直流滤波后计算的信噪比估计的有效波高比不进行直流滤波结果符合得好;而按波浪浮标测得有效波高数据的高低,分两段分别进行线性拟合获取校准系数,估测的有效波高更加准确.     

双峰谱型海浪的波高和周期分布

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，把这些资料以波高和周期的相关系数为参数分成５组，讨论每组双峰谱型下被高、周期的统计分布．并探讨了相关系数对波高分布和周期分布的影响。     

An Expression of Apparent Energy Distribution of Sea Waves by Wave Characteristics

Based on observed wind waves,the relationships between wave spectrum products and wavecharacteristics are established successfully,and the apparent energy distribution of sea waves is expressed as afunction of wave characteristics.     

Estimation of Design Wave Height for the Waters around the Korean Peninsula

Long term wave climate of both extreme wave and operational wave height is essential for planning and designing coastal structures. Since the field wave data for the waters around Korean peninsula is not enough to provide reliable wave statistics, the wave climate information has been generated by means of long-term wave hindcasting using available meteorological data. Basic data base of hindcasted wave parameters such as significant wave height, peak period and direction has been established continuously for the period of 25 years starting from 1979 and for major 106 typhoons for the past 53 years since 1951 for each grid point of the North East Asia Regional Seas with grid size of 18 km. Wind field reanalyzed by European Center for Midrange Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) was used for the simulation of waves for the extratropical storms, while wind field calculated by typhoon wind model with typhoon parameters carefully analyzed using most of the available data was used for the simulation of typhoon waves. Design wave heights for the return period of 10, 20, 30, 50 and 100 years for 16 directions at each grid point have been estimated by means of extreme wave analysis using the wave simulation data. As in conventional methodsi of design criteria estimation, it is assumed that the climate is stationary and the statistics and extreme analysis using the long-term hindcasting data are used in the statistical prediction for the future. The method of extreme statistical analysis in handling the extreme events like typhoon Maemi in 2003 was evaluated for more stable results of design wave height estimation for the return periods of 30–50 years for the cost effective construction of coastal structures.     

Relationship Between Mean Length and Mean Period of Wind Waves

1.IntroductionGreat progress has been madeinthe statistics of sea waves based onthe envelopetheory of Gaus-sian processes.Longuet-Higgins(1975,1983)first obtainedthe joint probability distributionfunction(PDF)of wave heights and periods.His work was exten…     

太平洋波高熵的分布变化规律研究

使用1992年IO月到1998年12月连续共75个月、230个重复周期的Topex／Poseidon卫星高度计有效波高资料，对南、北太平洋波高熵的空间分布特征和时间变化规律进行了研究。统计分析了太平洋波高熵的多年的空间分布特征和多年各月的时间变化规律。结果表明，太平洋波高熵呈现出中间低、南北高的马鞍形空间分布特征和明显季节变化的规律，与太平洋的平均有效波高和气候分布特征和变化规律相一致。给出了南北太平洋模拟波高熵的计算公式及计算稳定性检验。     

有效波高的对数-Beta分布

基于非线性Beta波面分布，采用变换ξ=lnH／γ，导出了一种仅用随机波面偏度λ3和尖度λ4两个参数表示的非线性有效波高概率分布——对数-Beta分布，发展了线性海浪有效波高的双参数对数-正态分布。对比结果表明，对数-Beta分布理论曲线与其对应的实测资料符合良好。推导出的对数-Beta分布的优点是，基本参数较少且便于确定，并可由随机波面高度资料直接推导出对应的有效波高概率密度函数。     

基于SVM的海浪要素预测试验研究

采用支持向量机对海浪要素中的有效波高进行预测,采用风场和波浪场作为学习要素,对比不同特征向量对有效波高预测结果的准确度。取台湾岛东部海区作为实验区域,使用NCEP再分析的数值模式数据作为学习样本。选用支持向量分类机,建立了4组不同特征向量的模型进行海浪有效波高的预测,并对4种模型的结果进行比较和分析。实验表明,当输入的特征向量过多或过少时,会对模型的预测结果和计算效率产生不同的影响。当使用风场和波浪场共同作为特征向量进行学习时,在该区域预测结果与模式预报结果相比更接近,相关系数将近99%,均方根误差约0.2 m。     

TOPEX卫星高度计有效波高数据分析与极值统计预报

利用 TOPEX卫星高度计测量的有效波高资料 ,对中国近海 9个海域进行卫星高度计的 C,Ku两波段测量值的比较分析与处理 ,得出合理的有效波高数值。利用三参数 Weibull分布 ,以渤海海域、上海附近海域和南海东部海域作为特定区进行有效波高的极值统计预报 ,并进行了统计分析     

Nonlinear Analysis of Nearshore Wave Height Variation Due to Shoaling

Wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for cnoidal waves are used to find an analytical solution to the problem of nearshore wave height variation on a simple topography, i. e., with an incrementally constant slope. The solution accounts for shoaling, frictional dissipation and will be sufficiently accurate for practical purposes considering the simplified assumptions which are necessary for the treatment of this problem by any method.     

山东沿海台风浪数值模拟与统计分析

为了得到山东沿海台风浪的重现期波高分布场,以Jelesnianski-Ⅱ模型构建的风场作为模式驱动,利用SWAN模式建立了山东及其附近海域的台风浪数值模型。通过对典型台风过程"麦莎"和"梅花"的数值计算,将模拟的有效波高与观测数据作了对比分析,验证了模型在计算海域的适用性;基于建立的模型,对1960-2012年期间发生于山东沿海的50场台风进行模拟。选取计算海域10个点的模拟所得波高序列,寻求复合极值分布拟合最优的分布型式,根据所得分布进行重现期波高的统计分析;最终绘制计算海域50年一遇和100年一遇的台风浪波高分布图,为山东沿海的防灾减灾和海洋结构设计提供参考依据。     

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

基于Beta波面分布的非线性海浪波高分布

基于非线性Beta波面分布,采用经验变换,导出1种仅用随机波面偏度λ3和尖度λ4 2个参数表示的非线性海浪波高概率统计分布--波高类Beta分布.此分布发展了线性窄谱假定下的Rayleigh分布.就所用实验室资料验证而言,本文推导的波高类Beta分布要优于几种工程上常用的波高分布.     

中国近海及临近海域海浪的季节特征及其时间变化

利用1992年12月-2005年3月TOPEX卫星高度计资料,对中国近海波浪季节特征及其时间变化进行了分析。分析结果表明,冬季平均波高最大,台湾海峡、南海北部、中南半岛东南海域以及吕宋海峡外侧是冬季的大浪区;夏季平均波高最小;春、秋两季为过渡期。对冬季大浪所在区域波浪时间变化的研究表明,年变化是其主要时间变化特征,而季节内变化是该海区的另一重要特征,并且以5 a为周期的年际变化与ENSO事件有着很好的对应关系。