Three-Dimensional Wave-Induced Current Model Equations and Radiation Stresses

After the approach by Mellor (2003, 2008), the present paper reports on a repeated effort to derive the equations for three-dimensional wave-induced current. Via the vertical momentum equation and a proper coordinate transformation, the phase-averaged wave dynamic pressure is well treated, and a continuous and depth-dependent radiation stress tensor, rather than the controversial delta Dirac function at the surface shown in Mellor (2008), is provided. Besides, a phase-averaged vertical momentum flux over a sloping bottom is introduced. All the inconsistencies in Mellor (2003, 2008), pointed out by Ardhuin et al. (2008) and Bennis and Ardhuin (2011), are overcome in the presently revised equations. In a test case with a sloping sea bed, as shown in Ardhuin et al. (2008), the wave-driving forces derived in the present equations are in good balance, and no spurious vertical circulation occurs outside the surf zone, indicating that Airy’s wave theory and the approach of Mellor (2003, 2008) are applicable for the derivation of the wave-induced current model.     

基于间断有限元方法的三维近岸波生流数值模型建立

在三维水动力模型中引入三维辐射应力,水滚影响以及波浪附加紊动效应,并基于间断有限元方法建立了非结构化网格三维波生流数值模型。采用实验室内斜坡地形条件下正向入射波在破波带附近产生的近底回流和斜向入射波产生的沿岸流对模型进行了验证。结果表明,计算值与实测值吻合程度较好,该模型可以较好地描述三维近岸波生流。     

Numerical Simulation of Spatial Lag Between Wave Breaking Point and Location of Maximum Wave-Induced Current

A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward.     

Experimental and Numerical Study of Wave-Induced Long-Shore Currents on A Mild Slope Beach

1.Introduction Long shorecurrenthasbecomethesubjectofextensiveworldwideresearchformanyyears.The purposeofthestudyistounderstandandpredicttheprocessesofsedimenttransport,shorelineevolu tionandpollutanttransportinthenear shorezoneundertheactionofwaves.Goda(2001)regarded thesuspendedsedimentastheprincipalloadinsedimenttransportandtheeffectoflong shorecurrents wasemphasized.Theeffectofwavesonpollutanttransportwasstudiedbynumericalmodelandfield experiment(TaoandHan,2002;Rodriguezetal.,1995),andth…     

辐射应力对台风风暴潮预报的影响和数值研究

台风过程期间,风暴潮和海浪是相伴相生的,相互作用的.波致辐射应力对于近岸风暴增、减水起着十分重要的作用,传统的海浪模式计算辐射应力耗时较多,不能满足业务化预报的要求.根据已有波浪辐射应力的理论表达式,经过严密的数学推导,适当的简化处理,提出了一个较为简单的波浪辐射应力表达式,并将其应用到业务化风暴潮数值预报模式中去,通...     

非结构化网格下近岸波生流数值模拟

波浪破碎产生的近岸流是近岸海域关键的水动力因素之一。基于近岸波浪的椭圆型缓坡方程和二维近岸波生流方程,建立了非结构化网格下近岸波浪破碎形成的近岸流数值模型。数值模型中,在空间上采用有限体积法进行数值离散,在时间上采用欧拉向前格式数值离散。数值计算结果表明,该数值模型可以有效地模拟近岸波浪破碎产生的近岸流。     

一次黄海海雾的三维数值模拟研究

本文利用 1个考虑了地形效应、植被影响、长波辐射、地表能量收支、液态水的重力沉降等影响雾的形成和发展主要因子的三维海雾模式 ,模拟了 1995 - 0 6 - 0 1发生在黄海的 1次实际海雾过程 ,分析了海雾生长、发展和消亡过程中液态水含量和其它物理量的三维时空分布变化特征。结果表明 ,该模式能较好地模拟出黄海海域实际的海雾生消过程 ,对海雾的三维结构有一定的模拟能力。     

波致应力对台风天气下南海上层海流的影响分析

利用海洋环流模式POM,分别在考虑波致应力和不考虑波致应力的情况下对1998年台风Faith影响南海期间的海洋环流进行了模拟试验,并将模拟结果与浮标观测资料进行了对比分析。初步的分析结果显示,在考虑波致应力情况下的模式结果无论在海表面温度(SST)的最大降温还是台风引起的海流的近惯性波动等方面均与观测结果更为接近;相对于不考虑波致应力的模式结果,最低SST降低了1℃,达到了24.12℃,而最大表层流速增加了17cm.s-1,达到了1.74m.s-1,计算的1 000m以内的正压流速大约增加了32%,达到了16.2cm.s-1。     

Comparison and Modification: TVD Schemes for Scalar Transport on An Unstructured Grid

In most TVD schemes, the r-factors were proposed according to the cell-centered (CC) finite volume method (FVM) framework for the numerical approximation to the convective term. However, it is questionable whether those r-factors would be appropriate and effective for the vertex-centered (VC) FVM. In the paper, we collected five kinds of r-factor formulae and found out that only three of those, respectively by Bruner (1996), Darwish and Moukalled (2003) and Cassuli and Zanolli (2005) can be formally extended to a context of the VC FVM. Numerical tests indicate that the TVD schemes and r-factors, after being extended and introduced to a context of the VC FVM, maintained their similar characteristics as in a context of the CC FVM. However, when the gradient-based r-factors and the SUPERBEE scheme were applied simultaneously, non-physical oscillations near the sharp step would appear. In the transient case, the oscillations were weaker in a context of the VC FVM than those in a context of the CC FVM, while the effect was reversed in the steady case. To eliminate disadvantages in the gradient-based r-factor formula, a new modification method by limiting values on the virtual node, namely in the paper, was validated by the tests to effectively dissipate spurious oscillations.     

Numerical study on vertical structures of undertow inside and outside the surf zone

Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t...     

波流耦合下保守污染物迁移扩散的模拟研究

基于三维潮流和谱波浪模型,以及输移扩散模型和拉格朗日粒子追踪模型,构建了波流耦合下保守污染物的迁移扩散模型。模型基于非结构化网格,对近岸复杂岸线有很好的拟合,可用于大范围波流耦合计算。运用所建的耦合模型研究了旅顺港内外的潮流变化、波生流场、保守污染物输移、粒子运动、以及新水道对湾内污染物迁移的影响,模拟的潮流场与实测数据吻合较好。结果表明:潮流会在湾内近湾口处形成一逆时针涡,波浪对湾内影响较小,但波生流会改变湾口流场分布;在湾内处于涡中的水体潮流自净能力较强,而湾中及湾底则较弱,SE向波浪会降低湾内水体的自净能力;新潮流通道的开挖,会显著改善水体的自净能力,尤其对湾底浅水区域作用明显。     

非结构化网格下大范围波生流模拟和应用

波浪破碎引起的沿岸流是近岸海域的关键水动力因素。利用基于缓坡方程得到的光程函数方程和波作用守恒方程建立了考虑绕射效应的大范围波浪传播模型,模型可以考虑流场的影响;将波浪模型计算得到的辐射应力、波浪紊动系数等参数添加到三维水动力模型中,得到大范围近岸波生流的计算模型。模型中流场和波浪可以共用计算网格,且可同步耦合计算;模型基于非结构化网格,可以拟合复杂岸线的变化。模型对波生沿岸流、环流和逆流进行了验证,同时对实际海域的波生流进行了计算,结果表明:该模型对近岸波浪破碎引起的波生流具有很好的精度和适用性,可用于实际工程的计算。     

Simulation of Gravity Currents Using VOF Model

By the Volume of Fluid (VOF) rnultiphase flow model two-dimensional gravity currents with three phases including air are numerically simulated in this article. The necessity of consideration of turbulence effect for high Reynolds numbers is demonstrated quantitatively by LES (the Large Eddy Simulation) turbulence model. The gravity currents are simulated for h ≠ H as well as h= H, where h is the depth of the gravity current before the release and H is the depth of the in-truded fluid. Uprising of swell occurs when a current flows horizontally into another lighter one for h ≠ H. The problems under what condition the uprising of swell occurs and how long it takes are considered in this article. All the simulated results are in reasonable agreement with the experimental results available.     

An Application of Finite Volume WENO Scheme to Numerical Modeling of Tidal Current

1 .IntroductionThe development and application of hydrodynamic models to predict circulation in estuarine ,coastal ,and shelf waters has been extremely active over the past three decades (Spauldinget al .,1992 ,1994) . However , most of these models are b…     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced currents combined with parabolic mild-slope equation in curvilinear coordinates

Researches on breaking-induced currents by waves are summarized firstly in this paper. Then, a combined numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is presented to simulate wave-induced current in areas with curved boundary or irregular coastline. The proposed wave-induced current model includes a nearshore current module established through orthogonal curvilinear transformation form of shallow water equations and a wave module based on the curvilinear parabolic approximation wave equation. The wave module actually serves as the driving force to provide the current module with required radiation stresses. The Crank-Nicolson finite difference scheme and the alternating directions implicit method are used to solve the wave and current module, respectively. The established surf zone currents model is validated by two numerical experiments about longshore currents and rip currents in basins with rip channel and breakwater. The numerical results are compared with the measured data and published numerical results.     

Development of A Depth-Integrated Longshore Current Model with Unstructured Grids

A depth-integrated model for simulating wave-induced longshore current was developed with unstructured grids. Effects of surface roller and horizontal mixing under combined waves and currents were incorporated in the numerical model. Recommended values of model coefficients were also proposed based on sensitivity analysis. Field observations and three series of laboratory measurements including two cases conducted on the plane beach and one implemented on the ideal inlet were employed to examine the predictive capability of this model. For the field case and laboratory cases conducted on the plane beach, numerical results were compared favorably with the measured data. For the case with an ideal inlet, simulated circulation pattern is supposed to be reasonable although some deviations between numerical results and measured data still can be detected.     

胶州湾潮汐潮流高分辨率数值模拟研究

基于采用无结构网格和有限体积方法的FVCOM陆架模式,考虑8个主要的天文分潮,建立胶州湾三维高分辨率数值模型来重现和研究其潮汐潮流变化状况。与实测资料对比验证表明,模拟结果与实测值吻合较好。在此基础上,根据模拟结果计算得到了较以往更为精细的同潮图和潮汐、潮流、余流分布特征。研究结果揭示,最大可能潮流和最大余流都发生在团岛附近,流速分别可达2.14和0.43 m/s;除了湾口附近前人报道过的4个余流系统外,还在中部首次揭示了2个相对较弱的余流系统;潮流能通量在内外湾口呈"左进右出"的结构;胶州湾的平均纳潮量为8.31亿m3;染色试验表明,胶州湾30 d的水交换率为36.8%。     

基于浪流耦合模型的台风浪数值模拟

基于CCMP风场资料,采用无结构网格、浪-流双向实时耦合模型FVCOM-SWAVE,模拟强热带风暴"米雷"在中国近海区域产生的海浪场,将耦合模型模拟的有效波高和平均周期与实测浮标资料进行比对,发现模拟结果的各类误差总体较小,说明耦合模型能够较好地模拟考虑浪流相互作用下中国近海台风浪过程。对比考虑潮汐引起的水位变化与不考虑水位变化情况下对耦合模型模拟结果的影响,发现在近岸区域考虑潮水位情况下的有效波高和平均周期模拟结果周期性特征明显,说明潮汐对耦合模型在近岸处有效波高的模拟影响显著。     

Numerical Analysis on the Effects of Submerged Depth of the Grid and Direction of Incident Wave on Gravity Cage

In this paper,the numerical model of the net cage with the grid mooring system in waves is set up by the lumped mass method and rigid kinematics theory,and then the motion equations of floating system,net system,mooring system,and floaters are solved by the Runge-Kutta fifth-order method.For the verification of the numerical model,a series of physical model tests have been carried out.According to the comparisons between the simulated and experimental results,it can be found that the simulated and experimental results agree well in each condition.Then,the effects of submerged depth of grid and direction of incident wave propagation on hydrodynamic behaviors of the net cage are analyzed.According to the simulated results,it can be found that with the increase of submerged depth of grid,the forces acting on mooring lines and bridle lines increase,while the forces on grid lines decrease;the horizontal motion amplitudes of floating collar decrease obviously,while the vertical motion amplitudes of floating collar change little.When the direction of incident wave propagation changes,forces on mooting lines and motion of net cage also change accordingly.When the propagation direction of incident wave changes from 0° to 45°,forces on the main ropes and bridle ropes increase,while the forces on the grid ropes decrease.With the increasing propagation direction of incident wave,the horizontal amplitude of the forces collar decreases,while the vertical amplitude of the floating collar has little variation.     

渤海湾潮致余流数值模拟研究

为了研究渤海湾潮致余流,运用Mike21模拟了渤海湾潮流场,揭示出潮波运动的规律,得到渤海湾的潮流场,在涨潮时最大流速为1.4m/s,落潮时最大流速为1.12m/s。根据欧拉余流的定义计算了潮致欧拉余流场,其最大流速为0.2m/s,中值为0.005m/s,在渤海湾北部区域和南部东营附近存在环状结构。在渤海湾不同位置释放自由粒子,通过粒子的运移路径发现渤海湾拉格朗日余流呈现双环结构。运用欧拉方法和拉格朗日方法分析渤海湾潮致余流场,阐明了渤海湾潮致余流的精细结构,可为渤海湾营养盐、沉积物或者污染物质的长期输送以及浮游生物、鱼卵等的迁移和分布规律等提供动力学基础。