Hydrodynamic and sedimentary responses to two contrasting winter storms on the inner shelf of the northern Gulf of Mexico

Results are presented from the deployment of three bottom-mounted instrumentation systems in water depths of 6–9 m on the sandy inner shelf of Louisiana, USA. The 61-day deployment included nine cold front passages that were associated with large increases in wind speed. Two of the most energetic cold front passages were characterized by distinct meteorological, hydrodynamic, bottom boundary layer, and sedimentary responses and may potentially be treated as end-member types on a continuum of regional cold front passages. Arctic surges (AC storms) have a very weak pre-frontal phase followed by a fairly powerful post-frontal phase, when northeasterly winds dominate. Migrating cyclones (MC storms) are dominated by a strong low-pressure cell and have fairly strong southerly winds prior to the frontal passage, followed by strong northwesterly winds.

On the basis of measurements taken during this study, AC storms are expected to have a lower average significant wave height than MC storms and are dominated by short-period southerly waves subsequent to the frontal passage. Currents are weak and northerly during the pre-frontal phase, but become very strong and southwesterly following the passage. Sediment transport rate during AS storms was not as high as during MC storms, and the mean and overall direction tended to be southwesterly to westerly, with low-frequency flows producing easterly transport, and wind-wave flows producing southeasterly transport.

MC storms had the most energetic waves of any storm type, with peaks in significant wave height occurring during both the pre- and post-frontal phases. The wave field during MC storms tended to be more complex than during AS storms, with an energetic, northerly swell band gradually giving way to a southerly sea band as the post-frontal phase progressed. Currents during MC storms were moderate and northerly during the pre-frontal phase, but became much stronger and southeasterly during the post-frontal phase. Shear velocity was high during both the pre- and post-frontal phases of the storm, although sediment transport was highest following the frontal passage. Mean and overall sediment transport was directed southeasterly during MC storms, with low-frequency and wind-wave flows producing northerly transport. In summary, the data sets presented here are unique and offer insight into the morphosedimentary dynamics of mid-latitude, micro-tidal coasts during extratropical storms.     

The modern change and evolution tendency of sand coast in the eastern area of Liaodong Gulf

Ｔｈｅ　ｍｏｄｅｒｎ　ｃｈａｎｇｅ　ａｎｄ　ｅｖｏｌｕｔｉｏｎ　ｔｅｎｄｅｎｃｙ　ｏｆ　ｓａｎｄ　ｃｏａｓｔ　ｉｎ　ｔｈｅ　ｅａｓｔｅｒｎ　ａｒｅａ　ｏｆ　Ｌｉａｏｄｏｎｇ　ＧｕｌｆＭｉａｏＦｅｎｇｍｉｎ；ＢｉＺｈａｏｑｉ；ＬｉＳｈｕｙｕａｎ；Ｘｉａ...     

Geological characteristics and spatial distribution of paleo-inlet channels beneath the outer banks barrier islands,North Carolina,USA

Nearly 200 km of high-resolution ground penetrating radar (GPR) data were acquired along the Outer Banks barrier island system of North Carolina, USA. GPR data combined with lithofacies and biofacies data reveal multiple depositional facies including inlet channel, flood-tide delta, overwash, peat and inner shelf. Previously undocumented paleo-inlet channels constitute a significant portion of the shallow geologic framework between Oregon Inlet and Cape Hatteras. GPR data reveal the complex stratigraphy associated with multiple sequences of cut-and-fill within inlet channels. Two types of paleochannels (non-migrating and migrating) were classified based on geometry and fill-patterns. Sediments and foraminifera collected from vibracores were correlated to GPR data to define the regional shallow stratigraphic framework. Channel-fill facies are characterized by clinoform packages, sometimes bounded by erosional surfaces, indicating variable sediment transport directions from the ocean and sound sides. Channels are incised into older flood-tide delta deposits corresponding to older inlet activity when barriers existed further seaward. Flood-tide delta deposits are capped with marsh peat and overwash units. Migrating inlet facies occur under the widest portions of the island, whereas narrow portions of the island are underlain by the non-migrating inlet facies or flood-tide delta/overwash facies. This geologic/geomorphic relationship is attributed to the successional stage of island evolution during transgression, and sediment transport processes associated with the different inlet types. The radar facies, lithofacies, and biofacies provide a comprehensive dataset that will permit more precise identification of barrier island facies in the geologic record.     

现代黄河三角洲沿岸泥沙运移与岸滩侵蚀态势研究

现代黄河三角洲的泥沙运移是河-海动力相互作用下的泥沙分配和再分配结果。现行水口门区岸滩和水下岸坡仍以不大的速率向海淤进,三角洲西段和南段沿岸基本处于动态平衡状态,三角洲中段广大岸段大都处于不同程度的冲刷蚀退态势。冲刷蚀退已严重地恶化了黄河现代三角洲的发育功能和三角洲经济开发环境,对油田的滩海工程和海上设施造成了严重威胁。     

Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands

A new nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases. Innovations include a non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading to account for wave-group generated surf and swash motions and an avalanching mechanism providing a smooth and robust solution for slumping of sand during dune erosion. The model performs well in different situations including dune erosion, overwash and breaching with specific emphasis on swash dynamics, avalanching and 2DH effects; these situations are all modelled using a standard set of parameter settings. The results show the importance of infragravity waves in extending the reach of the resolved processes to the dune front. The simple approach to account for slumping of the dune face by avalanching makes the model easily applicable in two dimensions and applying the same settings good results are obtained both for dune erosion and breaching.     

Occurrence of larval fishes in the surf zone of a northern Gulf of Mexico barrier island

Larval fishes were collected from the surf zone of Horn Island, Mississippi between March 1978 and April 1979. A standardized total of 39 435 larvae were taken from 222 collections in the inner and outer surf zone regions, representing fish in 69 taxa. Overall, considerably more larvae were collected in the outer surf zone (78·3%) than in the inner surf zone (21·7%). Engraulids, Chloroscombrus chrysurus and Symphurus spp. were the most abundant larvae taken from the outer surf zone while engraulids, Leiostomus xanthurus, Brevoortia patronus and Trinectes maculatus were the numerically dominant larvae in the inner surf zone. Seasonal peaks in abundance occurred at the outer surf zone stations during May and June and at the inner surf zone stations during December. Larval densities were significantly greater in night collections than in day collections.The occurrence of early larvae, late larvae and juveniles suggests that the surf zone habitat is important to several species of coastal marine fishes. Menticirrhus littoralis, Harengula jaguana and Trachinotus carolinus appear to most readily utilize the surf zone as a nursery area.     

Late Holocene chronology,origin, and evolution of the St. Bernard Shoals,Northern Gulf of Mexico,USA

Several shore-parallel marine sand bodies lie on the Louisiana continental shelf. They are Trinity Shoal, Ship Shoal, Outer Shoal, and the St. Bernard Shoals. These shoals mark the submerged positions of ancient shorelines associated with abandoned deltas. Three of these shoals are single elongate deposits. The fourth shoal, the St. Bernard Shoals, consists of a group of discrete sand bodies ranging in size from 44 to 0.05 km², 25 km southeast of the Chandeleur Islands in 15–18 m of water. The St. Bernard Shoals are stratigraphically above the St. Bernard delta complex, which was active 2,500–1,800 years b.p. Understanding the evolution of the St. Bernard Shoals is necessary to reconstruct the Holocene chronology of the St. Bernard delta complex and the eastern Louisiana continental shelf. For this study, 47 vibracores and 400 km of shallow seismic reflection data collected in 1987 across the Louisiana shelf were analyzed. In June 2008, 384 km of higher-resolution seismic reflection data were acquired across the study area and appended to the preexisting datasets. Vibracores were integrated with seismic profiles to identify facies and their regional distribution. Our results demonstrate that the deltaic package stratigraphically below the St. Bernard Shoals is chronologically younger than the northern distributaries, but derived from the same trunk distributary channel (Bayou la Loutre). The river eventually bypassed the northern distributaries, and began to deposit sediment further onto the continental shelf. After abandonment, the overextended delta lobe was rapidly transgressed, creating a transgressive shoreline that eventually coalesced with earlier shorelines in the region to form the Chandeleur Islands. The St. Bernard Shoals formed by the reworking of the relict distributary deposits exposed on the inner to mid shelf during and subsequent to shoreface ravinement.     

近岸人工沙坝的剖面演变规律和泥沙输运机制研究综述

近岸人工沙坝养滩是一种重要的海滩养护手段,开展人工沙坝地形演变研究是海岸带保护修复工程的重要需求。本文围绕不同动力条件下的人工沙坝横向迁移规律、形态演变模式、地貌耦合规律和水沙运动机制等理论层面,以及人工沙坝平衡剖面描述和演变过程数值模拟等方法层面,总结了近年来关于人工沙坝剖面演变规律和泥沙输运机制的国内外研究进展,并提出了关键过程机理深化、模拟预测方法改进和实际养滩工程应用等方面的今后研究重点。     

Seismic expression of sedimentary volcanism on the continental slope,northern Gulf of Mexico

High-resolution geophysical data define acoustically amorphous, mounded structures on the upper, middle, and lower continental slope of the northern Gulf of Mexico. Physical samples and observations within this unique seismic facies show gassy sediments, sometimes in hydrated form and, in places, as chemosynthetic communities. The geologic setting of these mounds suggests that the process of formation falls on the continuum of mud volcanoes to mud diapirs.     

The generation and preservation of multiple hurricane beds in the northern Gulf of Mexico

Cores collected from Mississippi Sound and the inner shelf of the northeast Gulf of Mexico have been examined using ²¹⁰Pb and ¹³⁷Cs geochronology, X-radiography, granulometry, and a multi-sensor core logger. The results indicate that widespread event layers were probably produced by an unnamed hurricane in 1947 and by Hurricane Camille in 1969. Physical and biological post-depositional processes have reworked the event layers, producing regional discontinuities and localized truncation, and resulting in an imperfect and biased record of sedimentary processes during the storms. The oceanographic and sedimentological processes that produced these event beds have been simulated using a suite of numerical models: (1) a parametric cyclone wind model; (2) the SWAN third-generation wave model; (3) the ADCIRC 2D finite-element hydrodynamic model; (4) the Princeton Ocean Model; (5) a coupled wave–current bottom boundary layer-sedimentation model; and (6) a model for bed preservation potential as a function of burial rate and bioturbation rate. Simulated cores from the Mississippi Sound region are consistent with the observed stratigraphy and geochronology on both the landward and seaward sides of the barrier islands.     

Heterogeneous tide-surge interaction during co-occurrence of tropical and extratropical cyclones in the radial sand ridges of the southern Yellow Sea

The Radial Sand Ridges(RSRs)area in the southern Yellow Sea are subject to tropical and extratropical cyclone activities frequently,in which the special geometry feature and moving stationary tidal system result in complex storm-induced hydrodynamic processes,especially the tide-surge interactions.We studied a rare weather event influenced simultaneously by an extratropical cyclone EX1410 and Typhoon Vongfong as an example to investigate the characteristics of storm surges,wave-surge,and tide-surge interaction in the RSRs area,and applied a high-resolution integrally-coupled ADCIRC+SWAN model,in which the meteorological forcing inputs are simulated by the WRF-ARW model.The model is validated by records from 4 tide gauges and 2 wave buoys along the Yellow Sea coast.Results show that the tide-surge interactions are of considerable regional heterogeneousness.The surge curves at Lüsi(in south RSRs)and Jianggang(in middle RSRs)have abrupt falls near the time of low tide,where the peak occurrence time of interaction residuals tend to shift towards the mid-ebb period.Significant increase of bed shear stress in shallow waters was proved the dominant factor to affect the tide-surge interaction in broad tidal flats of the RSRs area.Differently,the interaction pattern in the Xiyang Trough(in north RSRs),showed a unique rising in mid-flood period due to the phase advances of real surge waves in relatively deep waters.Therefore,we suggested to the local flood risk management that the tide-surge interaction tends to alleviate the flooding risk in the RSRs area around the time of high tide,but aggravate the risk on the rising tide in the Xiyang Trough and on the falling tide in large-scale tidal flats of the southem RSRs area.     

Influence of Dams on Downstream Beaches: Eressos,Lesbos, Eastern Mediterranean

Small water storage dams are nowadays regarded as the ideal solution for the water-thirsty islands of the Greek Archipelago. Several of these dams have been already constructed and more are planned for the near future. However, dams can also create problems to coastal areas, particularly to the beaches found at the lower reaches of the dammed rivers. The present contribution reports the results of a study undertaken on the effects of such a dam located at Eressos, Lesbos (E. Mediterranean), using both morphological and sedimentological information and a GIS-based sediment erosion model. The results showed that Eressos Beach is currently under erosion, which however is spatially variable. The spatial variability of the beach erosion can only partly be explained by the patterns of longshore sediment transport, suggesting also a negative sedimentary balance. The results of the sediment erosion model showed that the dam retains more than half of the sediment produced in the basin, irrespective of the scenario used. Thus, it is likely that the effects of the dam on the downstream beach are already apparent.     

海气相互作用对热带气旋发生发展影响研究综述

本文回顾了近几十年来海气相互作用对热带气旋形成和发展影响的研究情况.海表温度(SST)和海洋飞沫(sea spray)蒸发对热带气旋的强度和路径有一定的影响,但影响机制和程度如何,目前还存在争议.利用中尺度海气耦合模式进行数值模拟是研究海气相互作用对热带气旋影响的一个有效方法.介绍了国内外一些中尺度海气耦合模式,旨在推动建立适合我国海域用于热带气旋模拟和预报的海气耦合模式.     

Forcing of large-scale cycles of coastal change at the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington

Anomalous morphological features within large estuaries may be: (1) recorders of external forces that periodically overwhelm the normal morphodynamic responses to estuarine energy fluxes, and (2) possible predictors of cycles of future coastal change. At the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington, chronic beach erosion and frequent coastal flooding are related to the historical northward channel migration that destroyed the protective sand spits of Cape Shoalwater. Northward channel migration since the late 1800s conforms to the long-term net sediment transport direction. What requires explanation is periodic southward relocation of the trunk channel by as much as 5 km, and attendant construction of moderately large sand spits on the north side of the bay such as Kindred Island, Tokeland Peninsula, and Cape Shoalwater.Both autocyclic and allocyclic processes may have been responsible for trunk channel realignment and associated spit deposition. Channel recycling may occur when the main channel becomes overextended to the north and the tidal flow is inefficient because of its decreased gradient and increased susceptibility to shoaling by the growth and migration of tidal sand ridges. Under those conditions trunk channel relocation would be facilitated by increased wave heights and water levels of El Niño winter storms. However, co-seismic subsidence is the most likely mechanism for abruptly increasing sand supply and longshore transport that would favor discrete periods of channel relocation and spit deposition. Unless external forcing changes sand supply and predominant sediment transport directions in the future, the relative rise in sea level, frequent winter storms, and local deficit in the sand budget assure that beach erosion will continue at the mouth of this large estuary.     

Integrated Assessment of Shoreline Change along the Calypsostranda (Svalbard) from Remote Sensing,Field Survey and GIS

Abstract

Arctic coasts are sensitive indicators of polar environment change. Here we present the results of a study that examines the coastal morphodynamics of the Calypsostranda coastline in Svalbard (High Arctic) between 2007 to 2017 and compare these short-term changes to previous studies for the period 1936–2007. During the 2007–2017 study period, the study area lost ca. 10,710 m², at a mean Net Shoreline Movement (NSM) of ?1.86 m and End Point Rate (EPR) ?0.19 m/yr. Erosion also dominated between 1936–2007, ?28,800 m², at a mean NSM of ?4.99 m and EPR ?0.07 m/yr. Using EPR and Linear Regression Rate (LRR) parameters, we divide the Calypsostranda coastline into eroding and aggrading zones. The overall pattern of coastline change during the two study periods is similar, but the rate of erosion is higher in the recent interval, reflecting stronger climate-driven processes. Recent climate warming in the study area has been accompanied by an intensification of extreme events such as storms (e.g. ocean swell). The situation is becoming more pronounced due to the progressively reduced period of winter shore ice. Depending on the anemometric conditions, the Calypsostranda coast is modified by wind waves, and consequently longshore currents and associated sediment movement.     

唐山湾潟湖沙坝海域表层沉积物粒级及分布特征

利用2010年秋季在唐山湾潟湖沙坝(石臼坨、月坨和打网岗)周边海域实施的表层沉积物粒级的大面站调查资料,阐述了唐山湾潟湖沙坝附近海域的沉积物粒级及其分布特征,并结合同步实施的水文观测结果,初步分析了调查区的沉积动力条件。研究结果表明,唐山湾潟湖沙坝周边海域的平均粒度为4.18Φ,沙坝体近岸5m等深线以浅海域以单峰分布为主,5m等深线以深海域则为双峰分布,潟湖潮道处以单峰分布为主,潟湖内自潮道由东向西逐渐演变为三峰、双峰和单峰模式。调查海域的破波带以浅海域泥沙运动主要以跳跃搬运和推移搬运为主,以深海域中悬浮搬运逐渐占优。研究还表明打网岗岸线侵蚀程度不均匀,中北部岸段侵蚀较为严重。     

1984-2019年影响中国东南沿海城市的热带气旋及其经济损失变化特征

东南沿海是中国受热带气旋影响最严重的区域。以人口为标准,将浙江、福建、广东和海南四省拥有海岸线的地级市及上海在内的38个沿海城市划分为中等及以下(人口≤100万)、大型(100万人口≤500万)和特大(人口 500万)城市三个等级,基于1984—2019年影响中国东南沿海的热带气旋频次、强度、路径和经济损失数据,对登陆特征及经济损失变化特征进行研究,结果表明:(1) 1984—2019年登陆中国东南沿海特大城市的热带气旋频次最多,中等及以下城市最少。趋势上,在中等及以下城市登陆的热带气旋数量呈下降趋势,大型城市无明显变化,特大城市呈上升趋势。其中,广东西部和福建北部及中部的沿海城市登陆气旋频次最多。(2)强度上,特大城市登陆气旋强度最强,中等及以下城市最弱。趋势上,中等及以下城市登陆气旋强度减小,大型城市增加,特大城市先增加后减小,总体强度增加,福建、浙江和广东西部沿海城市登陆气旋强度最强。(3)从气旋登陆位置看,强热带气旋(STS)以上等级的气旋登陆点有北移趋势。(4)经济损失上,特大城市最高,其次为大型城市和中等及以下城市,总体变化均呈上升趋势,从损失占GDP (国内生产总值)比重上看,大型城市最低,中等及以下城市最高,均呈下降趋势。其中,福建、浙江和广东沿海城市损失高,占GDP比重低,海南损失低,但占GDP比重高。     

Grain Size Analysis and Depositional Environment Condition along the Beaches between Ovari and Kanyakumari,Southern Tamilnadu Coast,India

Textural analysis is the epicenter of any sedimentological research. Granulometric analyses of unconsolidated sediments are used as an index to decipher the depositional environment. The granulometric analysis display a significant fluctuation in mean size, sorting, skewness, and kurtosis due to the variation in wave energy and the extent of turbulence affecting the beach environment during the crosshore and alongshore movement of sediments. The present study is to document the variation in grain size distribution within foreshore sediments, i.e., between the high water line and the plunge point wherein the sediments are deposited under different wave energy conditions.     

杭州湾北岸金山咀—龙泉港岸段近岸滩槽冲淤演变分析

以杭州湾北岸金山咀—龙泉港岸段边滩及海床为研究区域,利用1989—2014年实测及海图资料分析岸滩断面地形变化和岸段冲淤变化。结果表明:在该研究时段,岸段存在长期稳定的冲刷深槽;近岸海床的冲淤表现出“波动性”,5 m等深线(2014年)以浅区以淤积为主,5 m等深线以深冲淤更迭,1989年以来总体呈现冲刷态势。长江入海泥沙量变化为该岸段发生侵蚀/淤积的影响因子之一,台风大浪及海床侵蚀/淤积波的移动导致海床冲淤复杂化。     

闽粤交界的大埕湾岸滩稳定分析及岸滩防护对策

本文在实地调查的基础上，通过对大埕湾沿岸输沙率变化和岸线形态的分析，综合探讨了该海湾的泥沙来源，沿岸泥沙迁移特征，岸滩冲淤动态以及海岸的演变趋势．结果表明：该湾沿岸带形成了一股朝W向迁移的波生泥沙流，泥沙主要来自诏安湾和宫口湾；该湾海岸除东部沙坝泻湖岸段略有淤伸外，其余岸段均处于侵蚀状态：随着泥沙来源的减少，海岸内凹蚀退是今后岸线调整的自然过程．文中还对大埕湾岸滩的防侵蚀提出了相应的对策建议。