海滩冲流带高频振动地形动力过程分析

在粤东汕尾后江湾海滩冲流带布设2条观测剖面,共计6个观测点,对滩面冲流带在约一个潮周期内的高频振动进行了观测,取得采样频率分别为1min/次和6min/次的滩面数据各1组.结合同步观测的碎波带波浪潮汐数据,分析探讨了海滩高频振动特征.分析认为在涌浪条件下,滩面高频振动的日内变化主要受到潮位变化过程的控制,涨潮堆积,落潮侵蚀.利用交叉谱分析的结果表明滩面高程变化滞后于潮位变化.滩面下部比上部振动幅度大,变化复杂,滩角脊部比凹部活跃.波群对滩面高频振动有显著影响,特别是波高大于有效波高的波群.滩面高频振动没有表现出明显的泥沙逐渐向陆地堆积过程,有一定的振动周期.     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,对比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系。分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用。     

海滩冲流带高频振动及碎波带波浪作用的模态分析

一般来说,研究者对海滩中长尺度变化的研究比较多,通过时间间隔为数小时、1d,1周、1个月甚至1a一次的重复测量来分析海滩的变化特征,但海滩冲流带是动力和地形发生高频率变化的一个区域,每次波浪引起的上冲和回流过程均要引起滩面泥沙的运动,造成滩面的局部堆积和侵蚀,而滩面地形的改变又反过来影响到下一次的冲流过程。这些现象对研究海滩碎波带动力和滩面地形相互作用机理、认识近岸泥沙的运动规律以及探讨岸滩的长期冲淤演变是十分有意义的。     

粤东后江湾冲流带滩面高频振动及动力作用分析

利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,以比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系.分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用.     

海滩碎波带波能振荡的多尺度分析

对不同波况条件下实测的一岬间海滩碎波带两个上的波面数据,通过小波变换方法计算了小波谱,并作了显性检验。结果表明：（１）碎波带波能存在典型的多尺度振荡特性;（２）在正常波况下,波能主要分布于风浪频域,入射波自外测站向内测站传播过程中,能量具有向低频方向转移的趋势;（３）在高能波况下,能量均向长重力波频带增加,在长力波显尺度,二测站之间存在良好的位相一致关系。     

海滩碎波带波能振荡的多尺度分析

对不同波况条件下实测的一岬间海滩碎波带两个测站的波面数据 ,通过小波变换方法计算了小波能谱 ,并作了显著性检验。结果表明 :( 1 )碎波带波能存在典型的多尺度振荡特性 ;( 2 )在正常波况下 ,波能主要分布于风浪频域 ,入射波自外测站向内测站传播过程中 ,能量具有向低频方向转移的趋势 ;( 3)在高能波况下 ,能量均向长重力波频带增加 ,在长重力波显著尺度 ,二测站之间存在良好的位相一致关系     

海滩层理中的反递变纹层

本文提出海滩反递变纹层自下而上粒度由小到大,重矿物富集于纹层底部,它是前滨冲流“剪切分选”的产物。原生反递变纹层常被激浪破坏和再造,遇到后期加积海滩过程时,才能保存于海滩层理中。海滩层理的现场观测是研究海滩层理反递变纹层形成机理的重要方法之一。     

作为自组织格局的滩角

对海滩冲流带内的流与泥沙输运的计算机模拟表明，一个将局部流加速与沿岸水面梯度结合的模型足以形成均匀间距的滩角。模拟的滩角特征以及其形成的条件与观测的自然滩角状况吻合良好。模型中的自组织机制与一个巳被接受的孤立波模型不同，在孤立波模型中沿岸孤立波产生规则的淤积模式从而形成滩角。由于这两个模型给出类似的预测，目前所具有的观测数据不足以将它们分开。     

海滩碎波带悬沙浊度短期变化特征分析

基于珠江口荷包岛南湾海滩碎波带垂向上的悬沙浊度和同步实测潮位资料,本文利用谱分析和小波分析方法对碎波带的悬沙浊度变化特征和影响因素进行分析.结果表明:(1)碎波带近底层和中层的悬沙浊度变化表现为周期性振荡特征,其中处于低频部分的近底层悬沙浊度周期约为中层悬沙浊度的1.25倍,但处于高频振荡部分的近底层和中层悬沙浊度变化周期基本一致.此外,近底层悬沙浊度峰值滞后于中层的悬沙浊度变化.(2)碎波带的中层悬沙浊度与潮位变化呈明显的负相关,且滞后于潮位变化.(3)近底层的悬沙浊度变化主要受控于波浪动力作用,而潮位变化引起的潮流作用是中层悬沙浊度变化的主要因素.     

Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches

A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions.     

Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

黄骅岸段人工开发对岸滩演变的影响研究

研究区域黄骅岸段内油气资源丰富,其人类活动也日益频繁。人工开发改变了该岸段的水动力环境,进而对岸滩的冲淤演变造成一定的影响。本文先后对该区域的断面测量、粒度测试以及放射性测年等结果进行分析,讨论了黄骅岸段在进海路修建的影响下产生的岸滩冲淤演变的原因和规律,认为其岸滩整体处于动态平衡状态或略冲刷状态,沿海围垦、筑堤造坝等岸边人工设施的修建是改变岸线的主要营力与原因。本文取得的成果为进一步研究该区域泥沙冲淤与岸滩演变问题提供了基础数据和分析参考,对研究渤海西海岸乃至整个中国海岸的岸滩演变都有一定的启示和借鉴作用。     

海岸带整治修复评价标准探索

海岸带整治修复工作的开展有利于贯彻落实科学发展观,促进海洋生态文明建设;有利于落实海洋功能区划制度,强化海洋综合管理;有利于促进海洋生态环境保护,保障海洋生态安全;有利于优化海岸资源配置,规范海域开发秩序;有利于改善海岸景观质量,提升海域资源价值;有利于履行各级海洋行政主管部门的职责,提升海洋综合管理水平。但在我国现有的标准体系中,在国家层面尚没有与海岸带整治修复相关的标准,海岸带整治修复缺乏系统的过程控制、质量管理、结果评价标准。文章基于浙江省海岸带开发利用现状和面临的问题,为了更好地推进海岸带整治修复工作顺利开展和实施,研究探索海岸带整治修复评价标准。     

Field investigation on the results of non-linear shallow water equations in the Swash Zone

For the study of the cross-shore wave-induced hydrodynamics in the swash zone, a numerical model is developed based on the one-dimensional non-linear shallow water (NSW) equations for prediction of hydrodynamic parameters in the swash zone. In order to evaluate the accuracy of the outputs of the numerical model, the model's predictions in terms of water surface elevations and cross-shore velocities, are compared to field data from full-scale experiments conducted on three sites with different beach slope; mild and steep, several bed particle sizes and under various incident wave conditions. The quantitative and qualitative comparison of the results of the numerical model and the full-scale data reveals that the model can generally predict many aspects of the flow in the surf and swash zone on both types of beach. The accuracy is adequate for application in a sediment transport study. Considering the time-history and probability distribution of water surface elevation, the model is generally more accurate on steep beaches than on the mild beach. The model can adequately simulate the dominant frequency across the beach and saturation of higher frequencies on both mild and steep beaches for various incident wave energy characteristics. With regard to the horizontal (cross-shore) velocity, the sawtooth shape of time-history and negative acceleration of water are well predicted by the model for both mild and steep beaches. Due to the uncertainties in maximum and minimum values of velocity data, clear judgement about the accuracy of the numerical model in this matter was not possible. However, the comparison of the minimum velocities (offshore direction) revealed that the application of friction factors below the range which is suggested by literature best match the data.     

Investigation of Macrobenthos in the Intertidal Zone of Tianjin and Discussion on Bioremediation

An investigation of macrobenthos in the littoral zone was carried out in Tanggu District, Tianjin City in June 2003. This investigation was the only integrated one since 1983 there. Something about macrobenthos investigation was reported in this paper. The results showed that the biomass of macrobenthos of that area was almost at the same level as that of 1983, and the density of macrobenthos increased a little. The biomass of Mactra veneriformis has great effect on the average biomass of that area. The diversity of macrobenthos has changed obviously, and 5 or 6 kinds of macrobenthos have become extinct or decreased greatly. So the ecological structure of macrobenthos has become simpler and unstable. In addition, some ecological methods to remedy the area are discussed in this paper.     

On Radiation Boundary Conditions and Wave Transformation Across the Surf Zone

The purpose of this paper is to extend the validity of Li's parabolic model (1994) by incorporating a combined energy factor in the mild-slope equation and by improving the traditional radiation boundary conditions. With wave breaking and energy dissipation expressed in a direct form in the equation, the proposed model could provide an efficient numerical scheme and accurate predictions of wave transformation across the surf zone. The radiation boundary conditions are iterated in the model without use of approximations. The numerical predictions for wave height distributions across the surf zone are compared with experimental data over typical beach profiles. In addition, tests of waves scattering around a circular pile show that the proposed model could also provide reasonable improvement on the radiation boundary conditions for large incident angles of waves.