Study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs based on a shock-capturing Boussinesq model

This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter.     

基于SAR的海上溢油监测最佳探测参数分析

基于SAR数据,在后向散射系数计算的基础上,从波段、极化方式、入射角等方面开展了海上溢油监测参数分析,结果表明:基于SAR的海上溢油监测,从波段分析,X波段与C波段较L波段更适合监测海上溢油;从极化方式分析,VV极化较HH,HV极化更适合监测海上溢油;从入射角分析,在计算溢油与海水临界值时,经多次实验,位于远入射角的疑...     

Experimental hydrodynamic investigation of a fixed offshore Oscillating Water Column device

Oscillating Water Column (OWC) is one of the pioneer devices in harnessing wave energy; however, it is not fully commercialized perhaps due to the complicated hydrodynamic behavior. Previous studies are significantly devoted to OWC devices located in nearshore and coastal regions where incident wave energy would experience dissipation more than offshore. In this paper, a 1:15 scaled fixed offshore OWC model is tested in a large towing tank of National Iranian Marine Laboratory. Wave spectrum shape effect on the efficiency of the OWC model is addressed. Moreover, the paper investigates the effects of the geometric and hydrodynamic factors on OWC device efficiency and uncovers new points in nonlinear interaction occurring inside the chamber; i.e. sloshing. The results indicate that shape of the spectrum inside the chamber is affected by the type of incident wave spectrum, especially for long waves. Pierson–Moskowitz spectrum leaded to higher efficiency rather than JONSWAP spectrum at longer incident wave periods. According to efficiency analysis, increasing wave height may lead to air leakage from the chamber followed by vortex generation, which is a reason for decreasing the efficiency of the OWC device. Furthermore, no shift in the resonant period of the OWC model, due to wave height increase, was observed at the opening ratios equal or smaller than 1.28%. Spectral analysis of water fluctuation inside the OWC chamber illustrates two modes of sloshing. The first mode can be seen at short period waves while the second mode is visible at long period waves. The sloshing modes approximately vanish by increasing draft value.     

礁面大糙率存在下孤立波传播变形及爬高实验研究

本文采用圆柱体阵列来模拟珊瑚礁面的大糙率,通过波浪水槽实验研究礁面糙率对孤立波传播变形及岸滩爬高的影响.结果表明,粗糙礁面的存在显著削弱了礁坪上孤立波的首峰和礁后岸滩反射造成的次峰,同时降低了波浪在珊瑚礁面的传播速度;垂直于岸线方向沿礁相对波高随着入射波增大而减小,随着礁坪水深的增大而增大,粗糙礁面上波高沿礁的衰减更为...     

One-dimensional modelling of individual waves and wave-induced longshore currents in the surf zone

A probabilistic model ( -model) was developed to describe the propagation and transformation of individual waves (wave by wave approach). The individual waves shoal until an empirical criterion for breaking is satisfied. Wave height decay after breaking is modelled by using an energy dissipation method. Wave-induced set-up and set-down and breaking-associated longshore currents are also modelled. Laboratory and field data were used to calibrate and verify the model. The model was calibrated by adjusting the wave breaking coefficient (as a function of local wave steepness and bottom slope) to obtain optimum agreement between measured and computed wave height. Four tests carried out in the large Delta flume of Delft Hydraulics were considered. Generally, the measured H_1/3-wave heights are reasonably well represented by the model in all zones from deep water to the shallow surf zone. The fraction of breaking waves was reasonably well represented by the model in the upsloping zones of the bottom profile. Verification of the model results with respect to wave-induced longshore current velocities was not extensive, because of a lack of data. In case of a barred profile the measured longshore velocities showed a relatively uniform distribution in the (trough) zone between the bar crest and the shoreline, which could to some extent be modelled by including space-averaging of the radiation force gradient, horizontal mixing and longshore water surface gradients related to variations in set-up. In case of a monotonically upsloping profile the cross-shore distribution of the longshore current velocities is reasonably well represented.     

Improved representation of breaking wave energy dissipation in parametric wave transformation models

An improved formulation to describe breaking wave energy dissipation is presented and incorporated into a previous parametric cross-shore wave transformation model [Baldock, T.E., Holmes, P., Bunker, S., Van Weert, P., 1998. Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone. Coastal Engineering 34, 173–196]. The new formulation accounts for a term in the bore dissipation equation neglected in some previous modelling, but which is shown to be important in the inner surf zone. The only free model parameter remains the choice of γ, the ratio of wave height to water depth at initial breaking, and a well-established standard parameter is used for all model runs. The proposed model is compared to three sets of experimental data and a previous version of the model which was extensively calibrated against field and laboratory data. The model is also compared to the widely used model presented by Thornton and Guza (1983) [Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. Journal of Geophysical Research 88 (No.C10), 5925–5938].     

珊瑚礁海岸波流运动特性整体物理模型实验研究

根据现场地形在港池中建立三维珊瑚礁-潟湖-裂口海岸定床整体物理模型,采用波高传感器、流速仪和表面流速测量系统分别测量了规则波作用下珊瑚礁海岸不同位置的波浪和流场特征.结果表明:礁坪上,波高在向岸方向逐渐减小,总减小幅度为86.7％,增水先增大后减小,沿礁坪下降幅度为65.9％,水流以向岸流为主,存在着先增大后减小的趋势...     

Verification of sediment transport rate parameter on cross-shore sediment transport analysis

The sediment transport parameter helps determining the amount of sediment transport in cross-shore direction. The sediment transport parameter therefore, should represent the effect of necessary environmental factors involved in cross-shore beach profile formation. However, all the previous studies carried out for defining shape parameter consider the parameter as a calibration value. The aim of this study is to add the effect of wave climate and grain size characteristics in the definition of transport rate parameter and thus witness their influence on the parameter. This is achieved by taking the difference in between “the equilibrium wave energy dissipation rate” and “the wave energy dissipation rate” to generate a definition for the bulk of sediment, dislocating within a given time interval until the beach tends reach an equilibrium conditions. The result yields that empirical definition of transport rate parameter primarily governs the time response of the beach profile. Smaller transport rate value gives a longer elapsed time before equilibrium is attained on the beach profile. It is shown that any significant change in sediment diameter or wave climate proportionally increases the value of the shape parameter. However, the effect of change in wave height or period on sediment transport parameter is not as credit to as mean sediment characteristics.     

A probabilistic method for constructing wave time-series at inshore locations using model scenarios

Continuous time-series of wave characteristics (height, period, and direction) are constructed using a base set of model scenarios and simple probabilistic methods. This approach utilizes an archive of computationally intensive, highly spatially resolved numerical wave model output to develop time-series of historical or future wave conditions without performing additional, continuous numerical simulations. The archive of model output contains wave simulations from a set of model scenarios derived from an offshore wave climatology. Time-series of wave height, period, direction, and associated uncertainties are constructed at locations included in the numerical model domain. The confidence limits are derived using statistical variability of oceanographic parameters contained in the wave model scenarios. The method was applied to a region in the northern Gulf of Mexico and assessed using wave observations at 12 m and 30 m water depths. Prediction skill for significant wave height is 0.58 and 0.67 at the 12 m and 30 m locations, respectively, with similar performance for wave period and direction. The skill of this simplified, probabilistic time-series construction method is comparable to existing large-scale, high-fidelity operational wave models but provides higher spatial resolution output at low computational expense. The constructed time-series can be developed to support a variety of applications including climate studies and other situations where a comprehensive survey of wave impacts on the coastal area is of interest.     

Field investigation on the results of non-linear shallow water equations in the Swash Zone

For the study of the cross-shore wave-induced hydrodynamics in the swash zone, a numerical model is developed based on the one-dimensional non-linear shallow water (NSW) equations for prediction of hydrodynamic parameters in the swash zone. In order to evaluate the accuracy of the outputs of the numerical model, the model's predictions in terms of water surface elevations and cross-shore velocities, are compared to field data from full-scale experiments conducted on three sites with different beach slope; mild and steep, several bed particle sizes and under various incident wave conditions. The quantitative and qualitative comparison of the results of the numerical model and the full-scale data reveals that the model can generally predict many aspects of the flow in the surf and swash zone on both types of beach. The accuracy is adequate for application in a sediment transport study. Considering the time-history and probability distribution of water surface elevation, the model is generally more accurate on steep beaches than on the mild beach. The model can adequately simulate the dominant frequency across the beach and saturation of higher frequencies on both mild and steep beaches for various incident wave energy characteristics. With regard to the horizontal (cross-shore) velocity, the sawtooth shape of time-history and negative acceleration of water are well predicted by the model for both mild and steep beaches. Due to the uncertainties in maximum and minimum values of velocity data, clear judgement about the accuracy of the numerical model in this matter was not possible. However, the comparison of the minimum velocities (offshore direction) revealed that the application of friction factors below the range which is suggested by literature best match the data.     

新型半潜式海上风力机基础水动力特性研究

概念性地设计了一种新型半潜式海上风力机基础,确定了结构的型式和尺寸,对风浪联合作用下不同工况的风力机基础稳性进行了校核.考虑黏性阻尼和二阶波浪力的作用,计算分析了风力机基础的水动力系数、幅频运动以及动力响应特性.结果表明,经过改进的新型风力机基础具有良好的稳性和水动力性能,特别是在垂荡性能上有大幅的提升.波浪入射角度对垂荡的影响不大,但对其他自由度RAOs影响较大.垂荡、横摇和纵摇RAOs均存在一个主峰值和次峰值,但峰值周期均远离波能集中区.此外还发现,不同工况下风浪入射角对风机系统的动力响应和系泊力均有较大影响,相对于工作工况,极端工况下所受风荷载较小,但是系泊力更大.     

A statistical analysis of typhoon frequency and application in design wave height

A typhoon leading is an important natural disaster to many disasters to China. A giant wave caused by it has brought large threat for an offshore project. Based on the maximum entropy principle,one new model which has 4 undetermined parameters is constructed,which is called the discrete maximum entropy probabilistic model. In practical applications,the design wave height is considered as soon as possible in a typhoon affected sea areas,the result fits the observed data well. Further more this model does not have the priority compared with other distributions as Poisson distribution. The model provides a theoretical basis for the engineering design more reasonable when considering typhoon factors comprehensively.     

方形网箱水平波浪力的迭加计算和实验验证

采用小直径圆柱体绕流理论和网渔具理论为基础的经验水动力计算法，分别考虑网箱框架是刚性体、网衣和绳索是柔性体的特征，结合正弦波理论对方形网箱及其构件受到的水平波浪力特性进行了分析研究，理论给出了波浪力迭加计算法，并把计算结果与小尺度的网箱水槽实验进行对比验证。结果表明，计算数值与试验数据较接近，平均误差率在15％以内。网箱水平波浪力呈周期性、不对称变化，在波浪周期小于0.72s时，主要以框架的波浪力为主，反之以网衣的为主。在波长为0.8m、周期为0.72s、水深为0.7m、波高为68.3mm情形下，计算结果显示网箱的框架尺寸和形状及其系泊、布局的选择应根据实际海况而定，网箱高度可适当增加，当设置水层下降深度相对于网箱高度比率为20％-40％，时，波浪力峰值下降相对率达68.03％-88.20％，表明可以较大程度地降低其波浪力。     

Wave radiation by a floating rectangular structure in oblique seas

The linear wave radiation by a long floating rectangular structure in oblique seas of finite depth is investigated by use of the method of separation of variables and the eigenfunction expansion matching method. Analytical expressions for the radiated potentials, wave forces and hydrodynamic coefficients are given. The correctness of these expressions is verified through two specific examples investigated previously by other numerical methods. Using the present analytical solution, the hydrodynamic effects of the angle of incidence, the draft and the width of the structure on the wave forces and hydrodynamic coefficients are discussed in detail which may provide some useful information for the design of rectangular structures in oblique seas.     

ASAR波模式数据反演参数误差与海浪条纹清晰度的相关性分析

欧洲环境卫星-高级合成孔径雷达(EnvironmentalSatellite-AdvancedSyntheticAperture Radar,Envisat-ASAR)波模式数据提供了全球风、浪要素信息,在海浪模式预报与同化方面有重要作用。该数据合成孔径雷达(SyntheticApertureRadar,SAR)图像普遍存在海浪条纹清晰度不同的现象,但是否影响数据精度尚无定论。本文通过比较2010年NODC (the National Oceanographic Date Center)浮标观测数据和波模式数据,发现经过官方修正后的海浪参数反而具有更大误差。进而通过对比不同条纹清晰度的SAR图像反演参数误差,揭示了ASAR产品海浪参数与浮标测量值之间的误差与海浪条纹清晰度的关系。结果表明:海浪条纹清晰的SAR图像的主波波长和主波周期的反演误差更小,而条纹不清晰SAR图像的有效波高和风速的反演误差更小。通过分析海浪参数对海浪条纹清晰度的敏感性,证实了有效波高和方位向截断波长对SAR图像条纹清晰度的响应最好,波陡次之,与卫星飞行方位角和入射角无关。因此,在反演和修正SAR波模式数据时,考虑图像的条纹清晰度,将会有效提高反演数据的精度。该研究可为高分三号等卫星的波模式数据波浪要素反演精度的提升提供有价值的参考。     

A parametric model for barred equilibrium beach profiles

Environment predictions for locations for which bathymetric data is missing, poor or outdated requires the use of some sort of representative bathymetric form, usually one that is concave up but monotonic. We propose and test a parametric form that superimposes realistic sand bars (Ruessink et al., 2003b) on a background profile that mixes a concave up nearshore with a planar far field behavior. Implementation at any new site involves estimation of five parameters, three that can be found from approximate information from climatology or old offshore charts, one that can be estimated by almost any remote sensing modality and one, h_sea that is less well understood but mostly affects deeper bathymetry that has little impact on the resulting surf zone hydrodynamics. Tests against several hundred surveys at three diverse locations show that bathymetry is better estimated by the new barred form than with a previous monotonic profiles in about 80% of cases. The remaining cases are usually associated with the parametric prediction of bars that look realistic but are out of phase. The presence of parametric bars has an even greater impact on predicted hydrodynamics since wave breaking is concentrated at sand bar locations. Modeled cross-shore transects of alongshore current and wave height over the measured survey profile are well represented by modeled transects over the barred parametric form but not for results over a Dean profile. The peak alongshore current strength and location are particularly sensitive to the presence of a sand bar.     

Numerical study on vertical structures of undertow inside and outside the surf zone

Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t...     

近岸带波高与周期分布的核密度估计

使用双变量核密度估计方法描述近岸带波高和周期联合概率密度分布与波高、周期边缘密度分布。结果表明,核密度估计方法比通常使用的参数模式能更好地显示出具有多峰的波要素统计结构,核密度估计的波周期带宽系数能反映波浪谱的某些信息,尤其以波周期带宽和谱宽参量具有良好的线性关系。     

Establishing uniform longshore currents in a large-scale sediment transport facility

A large-scale laboratory facility for conducting research on surf-zone sediment transport processes has been constructed at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center. Successful execution of sediment transport experiments, which attempt to replicate some of the important coastal processes found on long straight beaches, requires a method for establishing the proper longshore current. An active pumping and recirculation system comprised of 20 independent pumps and pipelines is used to control the cross-shore distribution of the mean longshore current. Pumping rates are adjusted in an iterative manner to converge toward the proper settings, based on measurements along the beach. Two recirculation criteria proposed by Visser [Coastal Eng. 15 (1991) 563] were also used, and they provided additional evidence that the proper total longshore flow rate in the surf zone was obtained. The success of the external recirculation system and its operational procedure, and the degree of longshore uniformity achieved along the beach, are the subjects of this paper. To evaluate the performance of the recirculation system, and as a precursor to sediment transport experiments, two comprehensive test series were conducted on a concrete beach with straight and parallel contours (1:30 slope), one using regular waves and the other using irregular waves. In the regular wave case, the wave period was 2.5 s and the average wave height at breaking was approximately 0.25 m. In the irregular wave case, the peak wave period was 2.5 s and the significant breaking wave height was approximately 0.21 m. The longshore current recirculation system proved to be very effective in establishing uniform mean longshore currents along the beach in both cases. This facility and the data presented here are unique for the following reasons: (1) the high cross-shore resolution of the recirculation system and the ease with which changes can be made to the longshore current distribution, (2) the degree of longshore uniformity achieved as a percentage of the length of the basin (even near the downdrift boundary), (3) the scale of the wave conditions generated, and (4) the relatively gentle beach slope used in the experiments (compared to previous laboratory studies of the longshore current). Measured data are provided in an appendix for use in theoretical studies and numerical model development and validation.