Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.     

Nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves

This article concerns the calculation of nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic analysis method. This is a new approach to the calculation of wave crest distribution, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The accuracy and efficiency of this new approach for calculating the wave crest distribution are validated by comparing the results predicted using it with those predicted by using the Monte Carlo simulation (MCS) method, by using a previous Transformed Rayleigh method, by using some existing wave crest distribution formulas, and by using the measured surface elevation data at the Poseidon platform in the Japan Sea.     

Numerical simulation for the two-dimensional nonlinear shallow water waves

This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory.     

Spectral characteristics of high shallow water waves

The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves with significant wave height more than 2 m based on the data collected along the Indian coast is examined. It was found that the value of Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) parameters (α and γ) increases with significant wave height and mean wave period and decreases with spectral peak period. The estimated average value (0.0027 and 1.63) of the JONSWAP parameters, α and γ were less than the generally recommended values of 0.0081 and 3.3, respectively. By carrying out a multi-regression analysis, an empirical equation is arrived relating the JONSWAP parameters with significant wave height, peak wave period and mean wave period. It was found that the Scott spectra underestimate the maximum spectral energy of high waves. The study shows that the measured wave spectra can be represented by JONSWAP spectra with the JONSWAP parameters estimated based on the equation proposed in this paper.     

Refined seaward boundary conditions for modelling shallow water waves in semi-enclosed water bodies

Based on the theory of characteristics, this research elaborates on the numerical treatment of two types of seaward boundary conditions for modelling long-wave dynamics in truncated estuarine and coastal domains. These seaward boundary conditions are devised for the solution of the fully non-linear shallow water equations in the time domain. The first type is the clamped boundary, at which the water level variation is given and the velocity is computed along the characteristic line going out of the domain. The second type is the non-reflecting boundary, where the incident wave information is introduced and the reflected waves from inside the computational domain are allowed to escape at the same time. The essence of its numerical implementation is to distinguish the inward and outward characteristics and to disconnect the incoming characteristic relation from the actual flow inside the domain. Compared with previous techniques, the present method includes extra terms in the derivation to account for the effects of the uneven bed, bottom friction and shape of the characteristic lines. A shock-capturing finite difference method is used to solve the shallow water equations in the deviatoric format, but the seaward boundary algorithms constructed herein are generic and applicable to other solvers. The necessity of these refinements is highlighted by simulating the tidal oscillation in the Persian/Arabian Gulf, periodic wave runup on the coastline and the wave resonance in a narrow harbour. It is found that neglecting the bed slope at the boundary may result in biased mean water levels in the prediction.     

Bound waves and triad interactions in shallow water

Boussinesq type equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics are derived and applied to study wave-wave interaction in shallow water. Weakly nonlinear solutions are formulated in terms of Fourier series with constant or spatially varying coefficients for two purposes: to derive higher order boundary conditions for regular and irregular wave trains and to derive evolution equations on constant or variable water depth. Wave transformation of monochromatic, bichromatic and irregular waves is studied and comparison with measurements and direct time domain solutions shows good agreement. The improvement relative to classical models from the literature is discussed.     

Parameterization of nonlinear shallow water waves over sloping bottoms

Investigation of the bottom slope effects on the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves, which are generated based on JONSWAP spectra, is carried out in a physical wave flume with three slopes (β = 1/15, 1/30, 1/45). The slope effects on the estimation of representative wave height are examined first. To obtain a better estimation of wave height, the slope effect should be considered when slope is larger than 1/30. The nonlinear parameters (bicoherence, skewness and asymmetry) are estimated by using the wavelet-based bispectrum, and the empirical formulae regarding these nonlinear parameters as a function of the local Ursell number are derived based on the present data measured on each slope. The results indicate that the slopes have a negligible effect on the variations of the skewness. The fitted coefficients of the formulae for the other parameters on slope β = 1/15 are clearly different from the results on the slopes β = 1/30 and 1/45, indicating that slope influence on the parameterization cannot be ignored when β > 1/30. Hence, new formulae considering the slope effect are presented. Furthermore, the empirical formulae for the data in surf zone are recommended.     

On spectral and statistical characteristics of shallow water waves

Spectral, zero up-crossing and Tucker's methods of analysis are examined for shallow water wave records. Among the wave height parameters H_s and are most reliable and consistent irrespective of the analysis technique. Tucker analysis, though simple, seems versatile for estimating these wave height parameters. The standard period parameters are less consistent. For practical purposes every period that might reasonably occur has to be considered along with their corresponding height estimate. Joint distribution of heights and periods is in agreement with the function proposed by CNEXO.     

An extension of the Airy theory for linear waves into shallow water

As a fully developed (Airy) wave propagates from deep into shallow water, its crest becomes more peaked while the trough flattens out. The median crest diameter MCD, defined as the distance between the wave flanks under the crest at a level halfway between the crest and trough, therefore decreases relative to the similarly defined median trough diameter MTD, which remains constant up to the breaking point. The MCD is directly related to other wave characteristics, which enables water particle velocities to be calculated for any water depth without having to recur to more complex, higher-order Stokes, cnoidal or Fenton theories. Over a nearly horizontal bottom, most fully developed wave characteristics can be expressed as functions of the wave period T_w. It is shown that the horizontal particle velocity at the bottom under the breaker crest is at least 9 times faster than under the breaker trough, which explains why sediment is transported landward under fair weather conditions. The proposed equations also shed new light on the formation of spilling, plunging and surging/collapsing breakers.     

Wave kinematics for simulated shallow water storm waves - Analysis and experiments

Computation of wave kinematics at or near offshore structures is a vitally important consideration in the design of offshore structures. Design waves often include breaking and near-breaking storm waves in the presence of currents. It is important to predict the kinematics of these steep waves. Experiments were carried out in a wave tank with simulated steep waves with and without in-line current in which the wave profiles and the corresponding kinematics were simultaneously measured. The simulated waves represent shallow-water Gulf of Mexico storm waves. Many of these waves broke at or near the measuring instruments. Irregular stream-function theory was used to compute the wave kinematics and was found to generally predict the measured wave-current kinematics well. The differences found between the two are noted. Some of the noteworthy features of the breaking waves are also discussed.     

Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of surface waves in intermediate and shallow water

A numerical scheme for solving the nonlinear Boussinesq equations is introduced. The numerical model is used to investigate nonlinear refraction-diffraction of surface gravity waves over a semicircular shoal. Results are compared with experimental data (Whalin, 1971) and previous reported numerical results by Liu and Tsay (1984) and Liu, Yoon and Kirby (1985). The present calculations reproduce the earlier results for shallow water waves, but are superior in intermediate water depth.     

适用于曲边界的浅水非线性波浪数值模型

实际工程中存在大量的曲边界,因此在曲边界上的计算准确性可以考察出一个数值模型的实用价值。利用Beji的改进型Boussinesq方程建立了一个有限元方法的数值波浪模型。造波方面采用Fenton提出的非线性规则波浪解;在墙边界处,以求解法线方向和切线方向的速度和导数代替求解x、y方向的速度和导数,从而使边界条件直接适用、严格满足,保证了对曲边界计算的准确性。"重开始广义极小残量法"的使用保证了求解方程组的效率和精度,使造波和边界处理方法的有效性和准确性得到了合理地诠释。通过与试验数据、他人数值结果、解析解的比对,显示出该模型计算稳定、结果准确,真正体现出了有限元方法对曲边界适用的优势。     

Application of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model to shallow water recurrence effects in random waves

The effect of ambient currents on nearshore nonlinear wave–wave energy transfer in random waves is studied with the use of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model. We focus on the phenomenon of wave recurrence as a classical nonlinear phenomenon whose characteristics are well established for systems truncated to small numbers of frequency modes. The model used for this study is first extended to enhance accuracy; comparisons of permanent form solutions to analytical forms confirm the model accuracy. Application of the model to a highly truncated system confirmed the model’s consistency with published results for both positive (following) and negative (adverse) currents. Propagation of random wave spectra over a flat bottom was performed with the model, with the intent of determining the prevalence of recurrence between the spectral peak and its harmonics. For spectra of moderate Ursell number, it was found that positive currents extended the length scale of recurrence relative to the case with no currents; conversely, negative currents reduced the recurrence lengths. However, beyond a propagation distance of ≈40 wavelengths of the spectral peak, recurrence becomes almost completely damped as the spectra becomes broad and the spectral energies equilibrate. For spectra of high Ursell number, in contrast, recurrence is almost immediately damped, suggesting that the nonlinearity is sufficient to allow immediate spectral broadening and equilibration and overwhelming any preferential interactions among the spectral peak and its harmonics, regardless of current magnitude or direction.     

规则波在浅水中运动及破碎的数值计算

利用一维Boussinesq方程描述了在浅水中的波浪运动以及破碎情况。在方程中引入了表面翻滚的概念，认为翻滚的水体是以波速运动的，翻滚的作用表现在水平速度的垂直分布上，产生了附加迁移动量项。通过对Airy波在浅水中运动以及破碎情况的研究，得出的一些结论与Schaeffer和合田的成果吻合良好。     

Interaction of flexural gravity waves with shear current in shallow water

In the present study, the effect of shear current on the propagation of flexural gravity waves is analyzed under the assumptions of linearized shallow-water theory. Explicit expressions for the reflection and transmission coefficients associated with flexural gravity wave scattering by a step discontinuity in both water depth and current speed are derived. Further, trapping and scattering of flexural gravity waves by a jet-like shear current with a top-hat profile are examined and certain limiting conditions for the waves to exist are derived. The effects of change in water depth, current speed, incident wavelength and the angle of incidence on the group and phase velocities as well as on the reflection and transmission characteristics are analyzed through different numerical results.     

Measurement of seabed sound speeds from head waves in shallow water

Acoustic signals from small explosive charges have been measured with sonobuoys on twelve tracks in Australian northern shallow waters with the aim of assessing whether useful geoacoustic information could be obtained. Using the frequency band from 14 to 70 Hz, travel times of head waves were monitored, and the sound speeds and depths of corresponding interfaces in the seabed were derived. The water sound speed varied a little with range, and its depth dependence was allowed for by using its average value. Head waves from interfaces indistinguishable from the seafloor (the water/seabed interface) were detected on only three of the tracks, with derived sound speeds of 2100 to 2300 m/s. The first sub-bottom interfaces were from 50 to 600 m beneath the seafloor, and their sound speeds ranged from around 2000 m/s to 6400 m/s. Thus the head waves were from chalk or limestone, cemented sediments in which sound-speed gradients would be small. The amount of data obtained for the seafloor was limited by incoherence of the signals and, for some tracks, by excessive spacing between shots. The incoherence is generally attributed to multiple head waves that are individually unresolvable, while on two tracks there were indications of medal ground waves. Occasional anomalous data were obtained, but generally the assumptions of the simple interpretation method were found to be valid. Since no curvature in the range-time lines was observed, there was no evidence of sub-bottom sound-speed gradients being significant     

Threshold of motion of coarse-grained sediment under waves in shallow water

This paper considers the threshold of motion of sediment in shallow coastal waters under breaking and non-breaking waves. A simple model, representing conditions at the fluid/sediment interface, is developed. The representation of a breaking wave is based on bore theory, and the shear stress at the bed is based on the friction formula of O'Connor and Yoo. A threshold formula is presented based on the use of energy dissipation. The threshold data is also related to the Shields threshold criterion.     

浅水极限波浪几何特征的实验研究

该文通过物理模型实验,对浅水区域内的波浪在破碎前极限状态下的几何特征进行了研究。实验基于JONSWAP谱对不规则波浪进行模拟,通过对波群中出现的单体极限波浪进行捕捉并对波形进行测量而得到研究样本。为了考察底坡因素对极限波浪几何特征的影响,实验共考虑了3组大小分别为β=1/15、1/30以及1/45的地形坡度。统计结果表明,在实验所采用的坡度范围内,当地波高与水深对近岸极限波浪的影响最为显著,随着水深与波高因素变化,极限波浪的几何特征也出现明显的改变。坡度因素对极限波陡和偏度的影响很小,可以被忽略,但是对不对称度参数的影响相对比较明显,坡度越陡,不对称程度越剧烈。最后,通过参数化,本文给出了极限波浪几何特征变化的经验公式。