波浪作用下近岸区污染物输移扩散的数学模型及其实验验证

在近岸缓坡浅水海岸,波浪破碎产生沿岸流是近岸海域流场的重要组成部分,它对污染物输移扩散规律的影响重大,在高阶近似抛物化缓坡方程求解大面积波浪场基础上,建立了波浪作用下污染物输移扩散数学模型.计算结果与不同坡度均匀斜坡地形上具有不同波高、周期的规则波及不规则波浪作用下污染物输移扩散实验结果进行了比较,分析了各种因素对波浪作用下沿岸流分布规律影响,所得结论认为地形坡度及入射波高对污染物输移扩散的影响较大,波浪作用将使缓坡海滩上污染物的输移扩散平行岸线方向.     

SWAN波浪模型和缓坡方程在0903号台风“莲花”波浪数值计算中的联合应用

为了提高近岸台风浪模拟的精度和效率,选取台湾海峡及其邻近海域为研究区域,以0903号台风“莲花”为例,采用大、小网格嵌套的SWAN波浪模型和抛物型近似缓坡方程联合应用的方法模拟了此台风浪场的分布特征.将验证点的计算值与浮标实测值进行对比,峰值的最大绝对偏差为0.89 m,整个模拟过程的平均绝对偏差为0.45 m,平均相对偏差在20％以内,整体模拟效果良好.为了便于分析模拟结果,选取了2009年6月20日23时、21日08时、21日14时3个典型时刻的模拟结果进行对比分析.其结果表明:(1)随着台风中心的北移,研究区域内风浪逐渐占据绝对主导地位,风与波浪的变化趋势更加吻合.21日08时泉州湾内最大风速约15 m/s,湾口的最大波高为2.8m;至21日14时台风中心逼近泉州湾口,湾内最大风速增大至20 m/s,湾口最大波高迅速增至4.4m,模拟结果与实际情况相吻合.(2)在台风中心逼近泉州祥芝中心渔港时港区受台风影响最大,但受该渔港东侧防波堤的阻挡,波浪较难进入避风水域,仅从堤头绕射进入港内,港内波高约为0.2m,港外最大波高达到2.3 m,受到东向浪侵袭时港内避风条件较好.上述结果表明,SWAN波浪模型和缓坡方程联合应用在台湾海峡及其邻近海域的台风浪数值计算中具有良好的适应性.     

A Numerical Model for Nonlinear Wave Propagation on Non-uniform Current

On the basis of the new type Boussinesq equations (Madsen et al.,2002),a set of equations explicitly including the effects of currents on waves are derived.A numerical implementation of the present equations in one dimension is described.The numerical model is tested for wave propagation in a wave flume of uniform depth with current present.The present numerical results are compared with those of other researchers.It is validated that the present numerical model can reasonably reflect the nonlinear influences of currents on waves.Moreover,the effects of inputting different incident boundary conditions on the calculated results are studied.     

近岸沿岸流及污染物运动的数值模拟

基于双曲型缓坡方程和近岸浅水方程对近岸波浪斜向入射破碎所生成的沿岸流及污染物在沿岸波流作用下的运动进行了数值模拟,并对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析。数值模拟结果表明,在相近工况参数下,随着入射波高的增大,沿岸流流速和平均水面升高值均明显增大;随着岸坡坡度的增加,沿岸流流速和平均水面升高值明显增大;随着入射波浪周期的增大,平均水面升高值明显增大。在沿岸缓坡区域,由斜向入射波浪破碎所产生的沿岸流对污染物的运动起着不可忽略的影响。     

Numerical study of pollutant movement in waves and wave-induced long-shore currents in surf zone

Water waves, wave-induced long-shore currents and movement of pollutants in waves and currents have been numerically studied based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation, the shallow water equation , as well as the pollutant movement equation, and the numerical results have also been validated by experimental data. It is shown that the long-shore current velocity and wave set-up increase with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore plane ; the wave set-up increases with the in- creasing incident wave period;and the pollutant morement proceeds more quiekly with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore palane. In surf zones, the long-shore currents induced by the inclined incident waves have effectively affected the pollutant movement.     

海岸沿岸流垂向分布实验研究

进行海岸沿岸流模型实验,利用ADV(acoustic doppler velocimeter)测量了沿岸流流速沿垂直岸线方向多个断面的垂向分布。采用Faria等的方法对实验结果进行了分析,将沿岸流沿水深分为上层和下层两部分:下层采用对数分布来表达沿岸流的垂向分布;上层考虑了波浪引起的自由表面的波动,流速分布为修正的对数分布。最后对沿岸流垂向分布特征做了分析,并与Visser和Hamilton的实验结果做了对比。     

近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的数值模拟

基于近岸不规则波浪传播的抛物型缓坡方程和两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子,对近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的波高分布进行了数值模拟,并结合实验结果对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析,结果表明采用两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子所模拟的破碎区波高与实测值均吻合良好,波浪破碎能量损耗因子及波浪破碎指标对破碎区波浪波高分布影响较明显。     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced currents combined with parabolic mild-slope equation in curvilinear coordinates

Researches on breaking-induced currents by waves are summarized firstly in this paper. Then, a combined numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is presented to simulate wave-induced current in areas with curved boundary or irregular coastline. The proposed wave-induced current model includes a nearshore current module established through orthogonal curvilinear transformation form of shallow water equations and a wave module based on the curvilinear parabolic approximation wave equation. The wave module actually serves as the driving force to provide the current module with required radiation stresses. The Crank-Nicolson finite difference scheme and the alternating directions implicit method are used to solve the wave and current module, respectively. The established surf zone currents model is validated by two numerical experiments about longshore currents and rip currents in basins with rip channel and breakwater. The numerical results are compared with the measured data and published numerical results.     

非结构化网格下大范围波生流模拟和应用

波浪破碎引起的沿岸流是近岸海域的关键水动力因素。利用基于缓坡方程得到的光程函数方程和波作用守恒方程建立了考虑绕射效应的大范围波浪传播模型,模型可以考虑流场的影响;将波浪模型计算得到的辐射应力、波浪紊动系数等参数添加到三维水动力模型中,得到大范围近岸波生流的计算模型。模型中流场和波浪可以共用计算网格,且可同步耦合计算;模型基于非结构化网格,可以拟合复杂岸线的变化。模型对波生沿岸流、环流和逆流进行了验证,同时对实际海域的波生流进行了计算,结果表明:该模型对近岸波浪破碎引起的波生流具有很好的精度和适用性,可用于实际工程的计算。     

利用被动示踪物模拟对黑潮入侵南海的数值研究

由于缺少观测数据和对黑潮水准确定义,很难识别出从太平洋入侵到南海的黑潮水团。本文基于一个经过观测验证的三维模式MITgcm,利用被动示踪物标记黑潮水,研究了入侵南海的黑潮水的时空变化。研究表明,在冬季,黑潮水入侵的范围最广,几乎占据了18°N-23°N和114°E-121°E的区域;并有一个分支进入台湾海峡;黑潮入侵的范围随深度增加逐渐减小。在夏季,黑潮水被限制在118°E以东,且没有分支进入台湾海峡;入侵的范围从海面到约205米是增大的,之后随深度增加逐渐减小。通过分析从2003年到2012年黑潮入侵的年际变化,与厄尔尼诺年和正常年相比,冬季黑潮入侵后向台湾海峡的分支在拉尼娜年是最弱的,这可能与中国大陆东南方向的风应力旋度有关。通过吕宋海峡的黑潮入侵通量（KIT）是西向的,其年平均值约为-3.86×10⁶ m³/s,大于吕宋海峡通量（LST,约-3.15×10⁶ m³/s）。250米以上的KIT约占了全深度通量的60-80%。此外,从2003年到2012年KIT与Niño 3.4指数的相关系数到达0.41,小于LST与Niño 3.4指数的相关系数0.78。     

非结构化网格下近岸波生流数值模拟

波浪破碎产生的近岸流是近岸海域关键的水动力因素之一。基于近岸波浪的椭圆型缓坡方程和二维近岸波生流方程,建立了非结构化网格下近岸波浪破碎形成的近岸流数值模型。数值模型中,在空间上采用有限体积法进行数值离散,在时间上采用欧拉向前格式数值离散。数值计算结果表明,该数值模型可以有效地模拟近岸波浪破碎产生的近岸流。     

辐射应力对台风风暴潮预报的影响和数值研究

台风过程期间,风暴潮和海浪是相伴相生的,相互作用的.波致辐射应力对于近岸风暴增、减水起着十分重要的作用,传统的海浪模式计算辐射应力耗时较多,不能满足业务化预报的要求.根据已有波浪辐射应力的理论表达式,经过严密的数学推导,适当的简化处理,提出了一个较为简单的波浪辐射应力表达式,并将其应用到业务化风暴潮数值预报模式中去,通...     

Numerical study of wave and longshore current interaction

Wave and longshore current interaction was examined based on the numerical models.In these models,water waves in the presence of longshore currents were modeled by parabolic mild slope equation,and wave breaking induced longshore currents were modeled by shallow water equation.Water wave provided the radiation stress gradients to drive current.Wave and longshore current interactions were considered by cycling the wave and longshore current models to a steady state.The experiments for regular and irregular breaking wave induced longshore currents by Hamilton and Ebersole（2001） and Reniers and Battjes（1997） were simulated.The numerical results indicate that the present models are effective for simulating the interaction of wave and breaking wave induced longshore currents,and the numerically simulated longshore current at wave breaking point considering wave and longshore current interaction show some disagreement with those neglecting the wave-current interaction,and the breaking wave induced longshore current effect on wave transformation is not obvious.