海南岛万泉河口博鳌潮汐汊道演变及沿岸输沙率的计算

通过收集不同时期的遥感资料,结合已往的研究,分析了海南岛万泉河口博鳌潮汐汊道演变的年际与季节性变化规律;根据实测波浪资料计算了年沿岸输沙率及沿岸输沙率的季节变化。结果表明,博鳌潮汐汊道的演变具有周期性的规律,年际特征为南、北侧沙嘴分别向口门进积、口门总体变窄;从10a以上的尺度来看,封堵口门的趋势不断被洪季时的洪水和风暴潮增水所打断。另外通过沙嘴体积变化反推了博鳌近岸的沿岸输沙率,其结果与CERC公式计算结果一致,表明此公式在博鳌岸段有较好的适用性。     

海南岛洋浦港潮汐汊道口门的均衡过水面积

将汊道均衡与潮汐特征，纳潮量，淡水径流量及沉积物搬运格局相联系，确定了洋浦港的均衡条件，根据纳潮盆地的水面面积－水面高程曲线以及相关的特征潮位估算平均纳潮量，利用１９７７－１９７９年波浪观测资料和ＣＥＲＣ公式计算沿岸输沙率；此外，还用改进的Ｇａｄｄ公式确定口门涨、落潮流输沙率，计算中引入汊道口门流速频率分布函数的定义。由此而得洋浦港均衡过水面积为５８００ｍ＾２，与Ｏ＇Ｂｒｉｅｎ方法所得结果相比，本     

潟湖潮汐通道水力特性与治理

综合论述了潟湖潮汐通道口门之流速、断面面积、通道长度、延时角和饱满系数之间的关系,以及沿岸漂沙对口门的影响。对不同类型的潟湖潮汐通道,提出了中潮位射流导流堤、口门复式断面和通道分汊等治理方法及其通道口门相关尺度的具体计算。     

胶州湾沉积环境与潮汐汊道演化特征

研究了胶州湾沉积物输运格局，沉积速率和潮汐汊道演化特征，结果表明，胶州湾口门水道内的悬沙净输运是从湾内指向湾外，湾内水体悬沙浓度终年较低，胶州湾的泥沙来源较少，沉积速率较低。历史上的围垦活动虽造成了纳潮量的减少，但口门过水断面面积并未减小。胶州湾是一个地貌演化缓慢，口站过水断面面积小于均衡状态面积的汊道系统。今后，可应用沉积动力学等方法确定维持港口和航道资源所需的纳潮量，结合纳潮海湾的环境保护和生态建设，定量地确定胶州湾的围垦潜力。     

建立潮汐汊道P-A关系的沉积动力学方法

在均衡状态下，潮汐汉道系统的纳潮量(P)与口门面积(A)之间存在着较稳定的关系，通常用幂函数形式来表达。计算P-A关系的传统O’Brien方法因其统计性质无法给出单一潮汐汉道的P-A关系。根据沉积动力学原理，每个潮汐汉道的P-A关系都受涨落潮历时、断面平均流速、口门形态、纳潮量、淡水径流量、沿岸毛输沙量和沉积物粒度等因素的控制，对上述因素的每一种组合，都有对应的均衡态P-A关系。作者在前人工作的基础上，尝试着建立了计算单一潮汐汊道P-A关系的沉积动力学方法，并以山东半岛月湖为算例对该方法的应用进行了讨论。结果表明，均衡态潮汐汉道的P-A关系的指数n稳定在1．15左右，而系统C的变化较大。     

海南岛博鳌港沉积物的沿岸输送

分析了博港沿岸沉积牧粒度参数的沿岸变化，并应用沉积物粒径趋势分析模型（GSTA模型）对沉积物运动趋势进行了分析。GSTA模型结果表明，博鳌港沿岸的泥沙在横向上表现为：万泉河口以北岸段为由海向岸运动，近期处于淤积状态；万泉河口以南岸段即玉带滩大致以NNE走向到NE走向的转折点为界，北部主要是由岸向海运动，是侵蚀岸段，而南部则主要为由海向岸运动，有少量的淤积，博鳌港沿岸泥沙输送在纵向上表现为：万泉河口以北由南向北运动，万泉河口以南，北部是由北向南运动，南部是由南向北运动，其次还运用了经验公式对GSTA结果进行了验证，得到了通过万泉河口南部（玉带滩）3个断面的沿岸漂沙量，其沿岸漂沙方向主要为南北向，以上两种分析方法得出的结果和当地的许多地貌证据基本符合，而GSTA模型在玉带滩北部泥沙纵向输运方向与经验公式计算结果所表现出的一些差异，主要是由于研究时间尺度和所用的资料特征的差异性造成的。     

非结构网格三维斜压模型研究人类活动对海南岛清澜潮汐汊道水动力影响

清澜潮汐汊道为海南岛东部一个典型的泻湖-潮汐汊道-沙坝系统,由于其优越的自然条件而成为开发的重点区域。近几年的人类活动主要包括:口门西侧的围填工程,航道的疏浚和八门湾泻湖内的围塘工程。采用SELFE模型,结合观测资料,研究了不同人类活动对潮汐汊道的潮波、潮通量与涨落潮历时、河口重力环流、盐水入侵和河口羽流的影响。结果表明不同的人类活动其对动力的影响不同,口门西侧围填工程减小了潮汐汊道的潮差,对潮通量和盐水入侵影响很小;航道疏浚则加大了潮差和潮通量,加强了河口环流和盐水入侵;泻湖内围塘工程使潮差有所增大,但减小了潮通量,对盐水入侵的影响不显著。口门西侧围填工程改变了河口羽流的路径,而航道疏浚则使河口羽流更加向海扩散。     

纽约长岛一个小型潮汐汊道的水力学与地貌动力之间的短期相互作…

为了研究潮汐通道水力学与地形变化的机制及汊道对邻近海滩的影响，我们详细观测了一个小型潮汐汊道水力学与地貌的演变过程。由于波浪输沙大于潮流冲刷，汊道的水文与地貌发生了剧烈的变化，最后在观测的第八天就座淤闭了。波浪输沙形成汊道内的浅滩，汊道口门断面面积，引起了摩擦效应加大，使汊道水流经历了由落潮为主向涨潮为主的转化过程。     

日照港深水航道泥沙运移及航道选址研究

使用SP2100波潮仪和ADCP海流计等多种先进仪器在台风季节进行了波浪、海流和潮汐观测,在取得大量现场观测子料基础上,结合长期的岸站资料对该海域的水文特征及水动力特征进行了系统综合分析。通过2002年对日照港深水航道海域含沙量和水深测量等成果,进行断面输沙、航道冲淤量及航道海域泥沙数值模拟等方面的计算,并采用POM模式。选择了几种有代表性的风浪情况,分别对港口附近海域进行了“波浪掀沙、潮流输沙和海底演变”的数值模拟。通过上述方法,对1998年12月竣工的-11m水深的航道的淤积状况进行了探讨,并推荐方案1为深水航道的首选方案,方案5居次。     

柘林湾多口门潮汐汊道动力地貌的演变

潮汐汊道是连接内湾和外海、维持港口通航和水体交换的枢纽,其演变特征是整个澙湖、海湾地貌体系研究的基础。选取典型多汊型潮汐汊道系统——柘林湾为研究对象,以实测资料和历年海图、地形图为基础,结合SELFE(semi-implicit Eulerian-Lagrangian finite-element)模型,研究多汊型潮汐汊道水动力结构、泥沙运动及自然和人类活动影响下的演变特征。结果显示,20世纪70年代澄饶大联围之前,共享柘林湾125km2纳潮水域的5个汊道同时维持稳定;围垦工程后,西侧2个汇潮口门封闭,纳潮面积减少50%,导致湾内动力减弱,韩江来沙中断,湾外浅滩冲刷,泥沙向湾内输送,30多年来三百门水道显著淤积,小金门稳定,大金门冲淤调整,小门水道淤积不稳。围垦工程后小金门水道的纳潮面积变化甚少,水动力及输沙仍为落潮占优,汊道环流发育,汊道断面冲淤微调,维持稳定;大金门汊道所控制的纳潮面积减小1/3,口门涨、落潮流速不对称性减弱,汊道冲淤调整;小门水道纳潮面积剧减一半以上,汊道延长弯曲,大金门与小门水道的环流结构加剧了该汊道的淤积和不稳定。     

Long-term morphological modeling of a tidal inlet: the Arcachon Basin,France

The Arcachon Lagoon on the French Atlantic coast is a triangular shaped lagoon of 20 km on a side connected to the ocean by a 3-km wide inlet between the mainland and an elongated sand spit. This tidal inlet exhibits a particularly active morphology due to locally strong tidal currents and rough wave conditions. During the past 300 years, minimum and maximum spatial extents of the Cap Ferret sand spit have varied by 8 km while one or two channels have alternately allowed circulation between the lagoon and the ocean. These impressive morphological changes have never prevented regular flushing of the lagoon, eventhough the spit came as close as 300 m from the coast during the 18th century. According to Bruun's concept of tidal inlet stability [Theory and Engineering (1978), 510 pp.], the balance between longshore littoral transport and the tidal prism ensures the perpetuity of the inlet.Process modeling was believed to give better insight into the respective roles of tides and waves in driving the long-term morphological changes of the inlet. A two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was therefore developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. The use of process models at a scale of decades requires a schematization of the input conditions. We defined representative mean annual wave and tide conditions with respect to sediment transport, i.e. conditions that induce the same annual transport as measured in the field. Driven by these representative conditions, simulations run from the 1993 bathymetry show that the tide is responsible for the opening of a new channel at the extremity of the sand spit (where tidal currents are the strongest), while waves induce a littoral transport responsible for the longshore drift of sand bodies across the inlet. One particular simulation consisted in running the model from a hypothetical initial topography where the channels are filled with sand and the entire inlet is set to a constant depth (3 m). The results show the reproduction of a channel and bar system comparable to historical observations, which supports the idea that the lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades.     

Sedimentary processes operating around the entrance to a river mouth port,Westport, New Zealand

The paper presents investigations of wave climate, tidal inlet hydraulics, and sand sediment bypassing at the entrance to Westport Harbour, South Island, New Zealand. The results complement and extend those of studies of bar morphologies and sediment characteristics already published. Longshore transport of about 1 × 10⁶ m³/year is directed in a net eastward fashion across the inlet because of an in‐built misalignment of the harbour training walls. Approximately 90% of the drift is bypassed, and has been since 1921, by deflection and splitting of the main sediment streams through the inner and outer bars and a transverse channel aoross the entrance. The outer bar appears to be the submarine, downdrift extension of Carters Breach and river load appears to contribute an order of magnitude less sediment to the complex than annual littoral drift. River sediments and littoral drift are mixed off the harbour and a declining proportion over time is recirculated to cause progradation of North Beach. The tidal compartment contributes little to scour of the entrance because of the predominance of bar bypassing. Contrary to the recommendations of several past studies, it is argued that improvements in navigation depths at West‐port are more likely to be obtained through modification of the littoral drift system than they are from tidal compartment enlargement.     

Sediment and hydrodynamics of the Tauranga entrance to Tauranga harbour

To relate the textural characteristics of the bottom sediments of a tidal inlet to hydrodynamics, 45 sediment samples from the Tauranga Entrance to Tauranga Harbour were analysed for textural parameters, and tidal currents and waves were monitored. Tidal currents dominate sediment transport processes near the Tauranga Entrance although swell waves are significant on the ebb tidal delta, and wind waves may influence intertidal sediments within the harbour. The bulk of the sediment is probably derived from marine sand from the Bay of Plenty continental shelf, but tidal currents and waves have changed its textural character. In areas of swift tidal currents, particularly in the inlet channel itself, sediment is coarser, more poorly sorted, and more coarsely skewed than that in areas of slower currents.     

Process-based modeling of morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system

The morphodynamic evolution of an idealized inlet system is investigated using a 2-D depthaveraged process-based model,incorporating the hydrodynamic equations,Englund-Hansen’s sediment transport formula and the mass conservation equation.The model has a fixed geometry,impermeable boundaries and uniform sediment grain size,and driven by shore-parallel tidal elevations.The results show that the model reproduces major elements of the inlet system,i.e.,flood and ebb tidal deltas,inlet channel.Equilibrium is reached after several years when the residual transport gradually decreases and eventually diminishes.At equilibrium,the flow field characteristics and morphological patterns agree with the schematized models proposed by O’Brien (1969) and Hayes (1980).The modeled minimum cross-sectional entrance area of the tidal inlet system is comparable with that calculated with the statistical P-A relationship for tidal inlets along the East China Sea coast.The morphological evolution of the inlet system is controlled by a negative feedback between hydrodynamics,sediment transport and bathymetric changes.The evolution rates decrease exponentially with time,i.e.,the system develops rapidly at an early stage while it slows down at later stages.Temporal changes in hydrodynamics occur in the system;for example,the flood velocity decreases while its duration increases,which weakens the flood domination patterns.The formation of the multi-channel system in the tidal basin can be divided into two stages;at the first stage the flood delta is formed and the water depth is reduced,and at the second stage the flood is dissected by a number of tidal channels in which the water depth increases in response to tidal scour.     

Sediment transport near the Tauranga entrance to Tauranga Harbour

Abstract

Sediment transport at the Tauranga Entrance was studied in relation to tidal currents and waves. Bedforms resulting from tidal flow were investigated with scuba divers and echo‐soundings. The alignment and scale of bedforms indicated the direction and approximate rate of sediment transport. Sediment transport was measured directly using sediment traps, and results were compared with rates calculated by another method. Maximum sediment transport rates of 20 000–30 000 g.m^?1 per half tidal cycle occur near the inlet gorge, but rates vary considerably in time and space, depending mainly upon power of tidal currents. A model of sediment transport for this inlet has been evolved based on tidal flow streamlines, bedform features, and the measured and calculated rates of sediment transport.     

Modeling regional sediment transport and shoreline response in the vicinity of tidal inlets on the Long Island coast,United States

A new numerical model was developed to simulate regional sediment transport and shoreline response in the vicinity of tidal inlets based on the one-line theory combined with the reservoir analogy approach for volumetric evolution of inlet shoals. Sand bypassing onshore and sheltering effects on wave action from the inlet bar and shoals were taken into account. The model was applied to unique field data from the south coast of Long Island, United States, including inlet opening and closure. The simulation area extended from Montauk Point to Fire Island Inlet, including Shinnecock and Moriches Inlets. A 20-year long time series of hindcast wave data at three stations along the coast were used as input data to the model. The capacity of the inlet shoals and bars to store sand was estimated based on measured cross-sectional areas of the inlets as well as on comprehensive bathymetric surveys of the areas around the inlet. Several types of sediment sources and sinks were represented, including beach fills, groin systems, jetty blocking, inlet bypassing, and flood shoal and ebb shoal feeding. The model simulations were validated against annual net longshore transport rates reported in the literature, measured shorelines, and recorded sediment volumes in the flood and ebb shoal complexes. Overall, the model simulations were in good agreement with the measured data.     

长江河口北槽水沙过程对航道整治工程的响应

北槽大型航道整治工程确定了南北槽分汊口分流界线, 阻碍了北槽和邻近滩槽的水沙自由交换过程, 使北槽水沙动力过程发生调整。基于工程前后北槽主槽纵向同步水沙观测数据的统计分析表明:入口段落潮优势显著减弱;上段枯季时落潮优势显著减弱, 而洪季时落潮优势有所增强;中段(弯曲段拐点附近)落潮优势略有减弱;下段落潮优势明显加强。北槽主槽水沙纵向输移机制分析表明:欧拉余流、潮泵作用、斯托克斯效应和垂向环流为悬沙输移的主要驱动力, 其中欧拉余流输沙指向海, 斯托克斯输沙和垂向环流输沙指向陆, 而潮泵输沙随着季节而变化。洪季, 欧拉余流输沙和潮泵输沙在工程前后的变化使大潮期河床冲淤由中段和下段普遍落淤转化为中上段集中落淤。枯季, 工程前后稳定的潮流辐散输沙作用使大潮期河床以冲刷为主, 但工程后在入口段和上段潮泵的向上游输沙占优势, 使悬沙在入口段落淤。     

Applicability of sediment transport models to evaluate medium term evolution of tidal inlet systems

This paper derives local formulae to estimate bed roughness and suspended transport and present a method to calculate net sediment transport at tidal inlet systems, combining field data and a range of well established empirical formulations. To accomplish this, measurements spanning a spring-tidal cycle of mean water levels, waves, near-bed flow turbulence and bed forms were obtained from the Ancão Inlet, Ria Formosa lagoon system, Portugal. High-resolution hydrodynamic data were gathered using acoustic equipments and by measuring sediment properties (grain-size diameter and bed form dimensions) under fair-weather conditions. The results compared favourably with available direct and indirect field observations of sediment transport rates. The approach appears to be robust and widely applicable and so can be applied to the same conditions in any tidal inlet system. This is of particular importance when attempting to understand sediment transport at inlet mouths, and has practical applications in a range of coastal engineering and coastal management areas concerned with navigation safety, coastal erosion, ecosystem health and water quality. The study discusses the applicability of the method on evaluating system flushing capacity, giving important insights on multiple inlet evolution, particularly with regard to their persistence through time. The methodological framework can be applied to assess the long-term stability of single- and multiple-inlet systems, provided that estimates of sediment storage at ebb-tidal deltas are available and sediment transport estimates during storm events are statistically considered.     

Tracer studies on the updrift margin of a complex inlet system

Three sediment transport studies using tracers were performed at Ancão Inlet (southern Portugal). The objectives of the experiments were to understand the sediment transport pathways and to determine their magnitudes on the updrift margin of an inlet. In order to apply the traditionally used Space Integration Methodology to the tracer experiments, adaptations were required. The study area was divided into four morphologically defined sectors and this was found to be a key factor for the applicability of tracers in a complex area. The four sectors are as follows: sector A is the straight part of the updrift beach; sector B is the upper area of the swash platform; sector C is the lower area of the swash platform; and sector D represents the inner parts of the inlet margin. The integrated analysis of all collected data (forcing mechanisms, tracer distribution and topographic evolution) led to the determination of the sediment pathways. A semi-quantitative conceptual model was developed in order to explain the sediment transport pathways and magnitudes that a known mass of sediment would follow after arriving at the swash platform. It was found that the areas with the largest sediment accumulation were sectors B and C, while almost no sediment was retained in sector D, which experienced significant erosion. According to the model, 53% of the initial mass of sediments remain in the system after two tidal cycles. It is hypothesised that sediment losses are caused by sediment transport towards the ebb delta and by sediment bypassing occurring from the ebb delta to the downdrift beach through swash bar processes. The herein defined conceptual model represents a useful tool that could be applied to other tidal inlets under similar conditions, facilitating sediment budget studies around tidal inlets.