Short-term changes in sedimentological and hydrographic characteristics over a sandy intertidal zone,the Wash,U. K.

Observations of tidal current velocities, their structure throughout the water column and associated sediment distribution patterns were made in 1972 and 1980. The results demonstrated: 1. an increase in the tidal current speeds and an enhancement in the longshore component; 2. a trend toward a more logarithmic velocity distribution in the water column; and 3. a general increase in grain size, but the development of alower mud flat. Such significant changes could relate to the construction of an embankment, as part of a land reclamation scheme, or to the reversion to a longer-term period of erosion over this region of intertidal flat.     

Tidal Propagation in the Mandovi–Zuari Estuarine Network, West Coast of India: Impact of Freshwater Influx

The Mandovi–Zuari estuarine network on the west coast of India consists of shallow strongly converging channels, that receive large seasonal influx of fresh water due to the monsoons. The main channels, the Mandovi and Zuari estuaries, connect the network to the Arabian Sea. Observations show that tidal amplitude in the channels remains unchanged over large distances (|mS40 km) from the mouths of the main channels and then decays rapidly over approximately 10 km near the head. To understand the dynamics behind this behaviour, a numerical model for tidal propagation has been used that simulates the observed tidal elevations well. Momentum balance in the model is predominantly between pressure gradient and friction. In the region of undamped propagation, the model behaviour is consistent with the theory that geometric amplification balances frictional decay leaving the tide unchanged. This balance breaks down near the upstream end, where channels are narrowest, and mean velocity associated with freshwater influx is sufficiently large to prevent upstream propagation of tide. This leads to rapid decay in tidal amplitude. The model also shows that the mean water-level rises in the upstream direction, in the region of the decay.     

湛江近海M2分潮的数值模拟

利用潮汐模型,在高分辨率的自适应曲线网格下,采用潮汐调和常数作为控制模拟精度的方法,模拟了洪江附近海域M2分潮的运动特征。模拟所得的潮汐调和常数同实测值相比,误差较小。根据模拟结果绘制的M2分潮的同潮图,揭示了湛江附近海域M2分潮振幅和迟角的分布特征以及M2分潮的传播和发展规律。模拟得到的M2分潮分别在涨憩、落憩、涨急和落急几个典型时刻的流场,揭示了湛江附近海域M2分潮潮流的分布特征及其运动规律。     

Tidal and subtidal water volume exchange in an estuarine system

Estuarine water movements occur over a broad range of time scales. In this study, moored current meter data were used to investigate water volume exchange in the tidal passes of Lake Pontchartrain, Louisiana on the tidal and subtidal time scales. A calibration technique, employing cross-channel measurements of water velocity, was used to calibrate the moored current meters, thus allowing for calculation of volume flow over a 35-day period. The local diurnal tide accounted for 50% of the total volume exchange, the rest being due to subtidal events (frontal passage). This subtidal exchange occurs primarily as large-scale events characterized by volume fluxes up to six times greater than the normal tidal prism. Neglecting this subtidal component in the determination of the volume fluxes for a system such as Lake Pontchartrain, could result in substantial underestimation (by as much as 50%) of these volume and their corresponding material fluxes.     

Tide and surge dynamics along the Iberian Atlantic coast

The eastern Atlantic barotropic dynamics (in a region spanning from 20° N to 48° N and 34° W to 0°) are studied through numerical modelling and in situ measurements. The main source of data is the tidal gauge network REDMAR, managed by Clima Marítimo (Puertos del Estado). The numerical model employed is the HAMSOM, developed both by the Institut für Meereskunde (Hamburg University) and Clima Marítimo.In this paper, tidal and storm surge dynamics are studied for the region, focusing particularly on the nonlinear transfer of energy between the different forcings.The results of tidal simulations show good agreement between semidiurnal harmonic components and the values obtained from the tidal gauges (both coastal and pelagic) and current metres. The nonlinear transfers of energy from semidiurnal to higher order harmonics, such as M4 and M6, were mapped. Those transfers were found to be important in only two areas: The French continental shelf in the Bay of Biscay and the widest part of the African shelf, south of Cabo Bojador. The modelled diurnal constituents show larger relative differences with measurements than semidiurnal harmonics, especially in data concerning the phase.A method to isolate the nonlinear transfers of energy between tidal and atmospheric forcing during a storm surge was developed. These transfers were found to be significant in the same areas where tidal nonlinear activity was present. The effect of short period wind generated waves on sea surface elevation was also investigated. The magnitude of the spatial derivatives of radiation stress was compared with wind-induced stress. As a result of this comparison, we found the inclusion of a forcing term that depends on radiation stress in ocean model simulations at this scale and resolution to be not essential. The effect of computing wind-induced stresses, with a formulation that explicitly depends on sea state, was also explored by means of a coupled run of the HAMSOM and the spectral wave model WAM for a storm surge event in the Spanish coast. This formulation was not found to be an improvement over a classical parameterisation which only depends on wind fields.     

Numerical simulation of fluctuation and undulation of the thermo-cline under tide (tidal current) action in the Bohai Sea

Besides seasonal variation, instantaneous variation of thermal layer will occur under the effects of tide, tidal current and wind disturbance. In this study the numerical simulation has been first carried out on fluctuation and undulation of thermal layer under influence of tide (simultaneous input of 8 tidal components). The study reveals the geographic distribution of thermal layer fluctuation in the entire study region and temporal and spatial variations of the undulation in tidal period superposing on the fluctuation. Especially, the wave with large amplitude simulated is consistent with observation in the channal and the sea areas with a convex coastline and complex variation of depth, internal relations of tide, tidal current, residual current as well as the factors such as geography, and the fluctuation of thermal layer is induced by residual current due to unsymmetry which occurs as a result of the tidal movement in lower layer influenced by friction and geography, meanwhile, analysis indicates     

江苏近海潮流湍流切应力研究

潮流的流速分布和湍流切应力的分布密切相关。为了研究潮流湍流切应力的特征和变化规律,本文从潮流运动方程推导出随潮流呈周期性变化的湍流切应力随深度的分布表达式。从江苏近海现场实测流速剖面中计算得到一个潮周期内的湍流切应力的变化过程。通过将实测值与本文理论解的比较发现,计算值能很好地反映出实测值的变化特征,尤其是能正确地反映潮流在加速和减速过程中,湍流切应力偏离线性分布呈现上凹和下凹的现象,以及只有在加减速转换的时候切应力才呈现线性分布的特点。最后,通过分析湍流切应力振幅及相位沿水深的变化情况,认为反映潮流周期、涡粘性和水深之间关系的参数Ri是决定湍流切应力弯曲程度及分布形态的重要参数。对于近海潮流,水深是影响湍流切应力偏离线性程度的主要因素。     

Influence of water-level elevation and tidal range on the sedimentation in a German tidal flat area

The nearshore region of the German Bight is characterised by a large tidal flat area of 7500km², which is a wedge of alluvial material lying in front of the coast. The elevation of a flat depends on the long-term water-level and currents. As a result of the rising water-level, the flats are migrating over an inclined Pleistocene basement. This migration depends on the balance of sedimentation versus erosion which is a function of water depth. Regular measurements of the water-level have been made since the middle of the 19th century. From the observations of the MHW it is estimated that the water-level has risen to approximately 30cm in the past hundred years. Recent investigations show that the change of the half-tide water-level is less than that of MHW. The increasing tidal range also changes the sedimentation processes over the tidal flats. The quantitative influence of the altered tidal range on the sedimentation and the morphology of the Wadden Sea is as important as that of the influence of mean water-level elevation. Changes in the elevation of the coastal plain caused by tectonic forces or subsidence cannot be determined. Extensive investigations were conducted to determine quantitatively the sedimentation processes which have taken place since 1936. The sediment budget of the Flackstrom basin (low macrotidal coast) is presented. With respect to the MHW datum plane, sedimentation of 20 × 10⁶m³ has taken place in this area. This is equivalent to a mean silting-up of 30cm over the past 46 years, an average 0.7cm/year. The sedimentation process is dependent upon the mean elevation of the flat. Most of the sedimentation has taken place above the half-tide water-level. Therefore, the flanks of the flats have risen more than the tops and the sand-ridges, which certainly reflects the very small long-term water-level elevation change of only 3cm which occurred during the period investigated (1936 to 1982). Recent investigations of the present state show a relationship between the tidal range and the height of the main sedimentation-zone. Comparisons of the Flackstrom (tidal range approximately 3.40m) and parts of the Dutch Wadden Sea (tidal range approximately 1.80m) indicate that the main sedimentation-zone moves down-shore from half-tide water-level to mean-low-water with the decrease of the tidal range, due to differences in the general course of the hypsometric curves over the tidal flat areas.     

Tidal oscillations in the Baltic Sea

Long-term hourly data from 35 tide gauge stations, including 15 stations in the Gulf of Finland, were used to examine tidal sea level oscillations of the Baltic Sea. High-resolution spectral analysis revealed the well-defined fine structure of tidal peaks with diurnal peaks at most stations being higher than semidiurnal. At some stations (e.g., Narva, Daugava, and Wladyslawowo), high frequency radiational tidal peaks with periods multiple of the solar day (3, 4, 5, 6, and 8 cpd) were detected; the respective oscillations are supposed to be caused by seabreeze winds. Harmonic analysis of tides for individual yearly sea level series followed by vector averaging over the entire observational period was used to estimate the amplitudes and phases of 16 tidal constituents. The maximum tidal oscillations of 17–19 cm were found to be observed in the Gulf of Finland and, first of all, in Neva Bay (in the head of the gulf). Diurnal or mixed diurnal tides are predominant in almost the entire Baltic Sea. The comparison of the observed tides with those theoretically computed showed that the existing numerical models of the main tidal harmonics generally quite accurately reproduce the structure of the tides in the Baltic Sea except for some regions of the Gulf of Bothnia.     

Active open boundary forcing using dual relaxation time-scales in downscaled ocean models

Regional models actively forced with data from larger scale models at their open boundaries often contain motion at different time-scales (e.g. tidal and low frequency). These motions are not always individually well specified in the forcing data, and one may require a more active boundary forcing while the other exert less influence on the model interior. If a single relaxation time-scale is used to relax toward these data in the boundary equation, then this may be difficult. The method of fractional steps is used to introduce dual relaxation time-scales in an open boundary local flux adjustment scheme. This allows tidal and low frequency oscillations to be relaxed independently, resulting in a better overall solution than if a single relaxation parameter is optimized for tidal (short relaxation) or low frequency (long relaxation) boundary forcing. The dual method is compared to the single relaxation method for an idealized test case where a tidal signal is superimposed on a steady state low frequency solution, and a real application where the low frequency boundary forcing component is derived from a global circulation model for a region extending over the whole Great Barrier Reef, and a tidal signal subsequently superimposed.     

Internal Wave Generation by Tidal Flow over a Continental Shelf Slope

The generation process of internal waves by strong tidal flow over a continental shelf slope is reproduced using a multi-level numerical model. On the basis of the numerical results, the crucial role of the tidal advection effect in the generation process of internal waves is demonstrated. The close relation between the resulting internal waveform and the strength of the tidal advection effect is also examined. The barotropic forcing on the internal wave actually works within a relatively small horizontal scale over the top of the continental shelf slope. When the maximum internal Froude number at the shelf break (Fr_m) is less than about 0.6, the amplitude of the resulting internal wave is almost proportional to F_rm. When F_rm is more than about 0.6, however, the amplitude of the resulting internal wave becomes larger than predicted by linear theory. In particular, when F_rm is more than unity, the time period during which the shoreward propagating internal wave stays in the barotropic forcing region becomes much longer. Consequently, the internal wave is significantly amplified with the horizontal scale approaching that of the barotropic forcing, which concentrates in a relatively small region over the top of the continental shelf slope. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

泉州湾内洛阳江口涨落潮流不对称性的数值研究

应用1个改进的含有动边界技术的河口海岸动力模型模拟了泉州湾洛阳江口的潮汐潮流.结果表明M2分潮在洛阳江口的主河道占据主导地位,但是随着潮波向浅滩的传播,其能量通过海底摩擦作用或非线性耗散作用逐渐转移至浅水潮,其中尤以M4分潮的增长最为显著.浅水分潮的增长又会引起天文分潮涨、落潮流的不对称性.进一步检验洛阳江口的潮流历时（月平均的涨、落潮流历时分别为6 h 1 min 30 s和6 h 19 min 58 s）和潮汐余流特征发现：该水域以涨潮流为主,由此产生的涨、落潮流的不对称可能有利于潮滩的进一步扩展.     

东海东南陆架外缘冬、夏季实测海流FFT分析

使用FFT法首次将东海陆架冬、夏季2次定点ADCP测流资料在频率域内分解成3个部分：不随时间变化的定常海流、周期为6～25h的潮流和剩余流,再将潮流分解为垂向均匀的全流(也称正压潮流)和剩余的斜压潮流。结果表明：夏季测站定常海流、潮流和剩余流能量分别占总能量的5．3％,93．9％和0．9％,而冬季测站分别占10．8％,80．9％和8．4％。夏、冬季测站的斜压潮流与正压潮流能量之比分别为20．7％和4．1％。     

Delineating suspended sediment concentration patterns in surface waters of the Changjiang Estuary by remote sensing analysis

Three Landsat TM imageries (taken on 18 May 1987, 4 August 1998 and 28 July 2007) were used as the data source to identify the spatial and temporal variations of the suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in surface waters of the Changjiang Estuary. Atmospheric correction was carried out to determine the water-leaving reflectance using the FLAASH module. A regression equation between surveyed SSC and suspended sediment index was chosen to retrieve the SSC from the Landsat TM images. In addition, tidal harmonic analysis was performed to calculate tidal conditions corresponding to the acquisition time of satellite images. The results show that the SSC spatial patterns are similar to the in situ observation results, which show the highest SSC in the region of turbidity maximum zone in the Changjiang Estuary. For the period of 1987 to 2007, the SSC pattern is controlled mainly by tidal dynamic conditions and wind speeds, rather than sediment discharges from the river.     

最近50a来莱州湾西—南部潮流动力演变的数值模拟研究

根据1959、1984、2002年测量的海图,基于二维浅水方程分别构建了3个年份的莱州湾潮流场模型,研究了最近50a来莱州湾西—南部潮流动力演变规律,揭示黄河河口沙嘴形成演变对莱州湾西—南部潮流动力的影响。结果表明,最近50a中在沙嘴外围一直存在弧形高流速带,在弧形高流速带外围又有潮流剪切锋,潮流剪切锋包括内涨外退式和内退外涨式两类。随着河口沙嘴的不断向海延伸,莱州湾西—南海域的等潮位线呈以沙嘴为中心的辐射式格局;弧形高流速带整体向外海移动,其范围和流速也随之不断增大;剪切锋历时变长、间隔时间变短、南北跨度变大;但弧形高流速带和潮流剪切锋始终位于青坨子以北海域。对照同期海岸地貌演变,在弧形高流速带、潮流剪切锋等共同作用下,大部分黄河入海泥沙的输运路径和沉降范围仅限于青坨子以北,导致海岸地貌以此为界呈现显著的差异性演化。     

Lateral stratification and dynamic balance at the Matane transect in the lower Saint Lawrence estuary

The lateral stratification and momentum balance in the lower Saint Lawrence estuary (LSLE) were investigated over a period of six days from current, temperature, and salinity measurements taken in 1979 at the Matane transect. Asymptotic singular decomposition analysis was used to show that the spatial variability of hydrodynamic parameters at that cross-section was more pronounced than their temporal or tidal variability. Classification of the section in the lateral circulation/stratification diagram revealed that the LSLE is one of the most laterally-stratified estuaries examined in the world. Estimates of various acceleration terms in the lateral dynamic balance equation showed that, when averaged over many tidal cycles, the motion can be considered as being quasigeostrophic to a first approximation, with contributions of the same order of magnitude from the baroclinic and the barotropic pressure gradients. Convection accelerations were found to be important only near the north shore, where strong cross-channel currents were recorded, whilst local and centrifugal accelerations were found to be of secondary importance.     

辽东湾中部西岸浅水海域冬季实测海流分析

2015年12月在辽东湾中部西岸浅水海域进行了8个站、连续半个月的坐底ADCP海流剖面观测,通过对分层潮流和余流分析,得到该海域的海流特征如下:1)实测海流以潮流特征占主导,潮流特征为规则半日潮流,优势分潮为M2;M2椭圆长轴大小为25~50 cm/s、方向多为NE-SW向,具有显著的往复流特征。2)观测期间的平均余流为1~10 cm/s,方向多为SW向,平均余流在水平和垂向上的空间差异明显,日均余流波动剧烈;表层余流方向与局地风向具有很好的同步一致性,且距岸较近站位的表层余流受风影响更大;中、底层余流与风的相关性较差。本文得到的余流方向不支持冬季辽东湾北部的边界顺时针环流的存在。     

台湾海峡M2分潮潮波研究进展

台湾海峡内各种与潮波相关的现象,可以归因于在地形及岸线的影响下自台湾海峡南北两端进入的潮波的相互作用。近20余年来台湾海峡潮波的研究获得显著进展,然而即使作为台湾海峡主要分潮的M2分潮,其相关研究中也还存在着诸多分歧。从台湾海峡M2分潮潮波分布特征及解释研究出发,并针对以往各种研究中差别较大的M2分潮潮流的分布及变化特征,归纳总结了相关研究的主要分歧：(1)对台湾海峡M2分潮潮波的研究的争议主要集中在2点,包括对自台湾海峡南、北两端进入海峡的潮波的作用范围的研究以及台湾海峡内部潮波系统形成机制的探讨;(2)台湾海峡M2分潮潮位分布研究的主要分歧在于对台湾岛西岸潮时潮差的分布特征的解释;(3)台湾海峡M2分潮潮流研究中最大的差异在于对最大潮流同潮时线分布特征的描述,其实质仍为对潮波作用范围的描述;对应于M2分潮最大潮流同潮时线研究观点的差异,在M2分潮圆流点是否存在、圆流点存在位置及圆流点旋转方向的研究上也存在着较大的差异;对台湾海峡内部椭圆率为零的分隔线位置的讨论,主要分歧在于该椭率零线靠近台湾岛附近及澎湖列岛附近时的分布状况。此外,最强流区的位置判定及极值区潮流流速量值的大小问题上也存在差异。     

基于GMT的潮汐信息图件制作软件设计和实现

基于通用制图软件GMT(generic mapping tools)和中国近海精密潮汐模型,开发了潮汐信息图件制作软件。软件以交互界面设置图幅、验潮站及分区以及等值线分布等信息,可制作主要分潮的潮波图、潮汐类型数与深度基准面等值线分布图。两个测量实例的测试表明,软件可在沿岸潮汐复杂海域制作潮汐信息图件,可作为技术文档中验潮站设计的佐证材料。     

Simulation of barotropic and baroclinic tides in the South China Sea

The four leading tidal constituents M2, S2, K1 and O1 in the South China Sea are simulated by using POM. The model is forced with tide-generating potential and four leading tidal constituents at the open boundary. In order to simulate more exactly, TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter data are assimilated into the model and the open boundary is optimized. The computed co-tidal charts for M2 and K1 constituents are generally consistent with previous results in this region. The numerical simulation shows that energetic internal tides are generated over the bottom topography such as the Dongsha Islands, the Xisha Islands, the Zhongsha Islands, the Nansha Islands and the Luzon Strait.