Numerical modeling of multi-directional irregular waves incorporating 2-D numerical wave absorber and subgrid turbulence

In this paper, a finite difference scheme with an efficient 2-D numerical wave absorber for solving the extended Boussinesq equations as derived by Nwogu (Nwogu, O., 1993. Alternative form of Boussinesq equations for nearshore wave propagation. J. Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 119, 618–638) is proposed. The alternate direction iterative method combined with an efficient predictor-corrector scheme are adopted for the numerical solution of the governing differential equations. To parameterize the contribution of unresolved small-scale motions, the philosophy of the large eddy simulation is applied on the horizontal plane. The proposed method is verified by two test cases where experimental data are available for comparison. The first case is wave diffraction around a semi-infinite breakwater studied by Briggs et al. (Briggs, M.J., Thompson, E.F., Vincent, C.L., 1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE 121, 23–35). The other case is wave concentration by a navigation channel as reported by Yu et al. (Yu, Y.-X., Liu, S.-X., Li, Y.S., Wai, O.W.H., 2000. Refraction and diffraction of random waves through breakwater. Ocean Engineering 27, 489–509). Numerical results agree very well with the corresponding experimental data in both cases.     

Phase-decoupled refraction–diffraction for spectral wave models

Conventional spectral wave models, which are used to determine wave conditions in coastal regions, can account for all relevant processes of generation, dissipation and propagation, except diffraction. To accommodate diffraction in such models, a phase-decoupled refraction–diffraction approximation is suggested. It is expressed in terms of the directional turning rate of the individual wave components in the two-dimensional wave spectrum. The approximation is based on the mild-slope equation for refraction–diffraction, omitting phase information. It does therefore not permit coherent wave fields in the computational domain (harbours with standing-wave patterns are excluded). The third-generation wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) was used for the numerical implementation based on a straightforward finite-difference scheme. Computational results in extreme diffraction-prone cases agree reasonably well with observations, analytical solutions and solutions of conventional refraction–diffraction models. It is shown that the agreement would improve further if singularities in the wave field (e.g., at the tips of breakwaters) could be properly accounted for. The implementation of this phase-decoupled refraction–diffraction approximation in SWAN shows that diffraction of random, short-crested waves, based on the mild-slope equation can be combined with the processes of refraction, shoaling, generation, dissipation and wave–wave interactions in spectral wave models.     

单突堤后的波浪绕射

波浪绕射现象是确定港域掩护状况的主要因素,在设计港口防波堤工程时必须予以考虑,以便根据港口使用要求,选择最佳的外堤布置方案,确保船舶作业安全并节省工程投资。防波堤工程可有各种不同布局,其中最常见的一种为单突堤。其它如岛堤、双突堤,从计算堤内水域波况的观点着眼,在一定条件下其性质亦属于单突堤一类。因此,研究单突堤后的波浪绕射规律具有较普遍的实际意义。     

Solitary wave interaction with a concentric porous cylinder system

Theoretical investigations on solitary waves interacting with a surface-piercing concentric porous cylinder system are presented in this paper. The outer cylinder is porous and considered thin in thickness, while the inner cylinder is solid. Both cylinders are rigidly fixed on the bottom. Following Isaacson's [Isaacson, Micheal de St. Q., 1983. Solitary wave diffraction around large cylinder. Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 109(1), 121–127.] approach, we obtained the solutions for free-surface elevation and the corresponding velocity potential in terms of Fourier integrals. Numerical results are presented to show the effects of incident wave condition, porosity of the outer cylinder and radius ratio on wave forces and wave elevations around the inner and outer cylinders.     

多方向不规则波传播变形数值模拟

在推广的缓坡方程数学模型基础上建立了多方向不规则波数学模型,综合考虑了波浪折射、绕射、反射、底摩擦和风能输入等因素。基于线性波浪理论,将波浪方向谱在频率和方向上按等能量分割法离散后,分别计算各组成波的传播变形,再计算合成波要素。缓坡方程数学模型采用改进的ADI法求解,计算效率高,稳定性好。采用椭圆形浅滩不规则波模型试验结果和单突堤不规则波绕射理论解对数学模型进行了验证,数值模拟结果和试验值及理论解符合良好。利用该模型进行了某港港内波浪折射、绕射和反射的联合数值模拟,给出了合理的港内波高分布。     

Boundary element modeling of multidirectional random waves in a harbor with partially reflecting boundaries

A numerical model is presented for the prediction of the wave field due to the diffraction of directional random waves in a harbor of arbitrary shape with partially reflecting boundaries. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method is based upon the superposition of diffraction solutions for monochromatic waves obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral equation approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous experimental data and theoretical results for both regular and random wave diffraction by offshore breakwaters and in harbors. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field inside a harbor or around a breakwater in many practical applications.     

Linear and nonlinear wave diffraction using the nonlinear time dependent mild slope equations

Nonlinear wave diffraction is studied using the nonlinear time-dependent mild slope equation. The equations are solved using a combined Newton–Raphson and Crank–Nicolson finite difference scheme. The model results are verified for propagation of highly nonlinear waves over uniform depth and wave diffraction due to semi-finite breakwater and breakwater gap with different widths. Comparison between the numerical and experimental results indicates that the model is capable of simulating nonlinear wave diffraction. The model is applied to study the effect of the wave nonlinearity on the diffraction coefficient for a semi-infinite breakwater and a breakwater gap.     

The phase difference effects on 3-D structure of wave pressure acting on a composite breakwater

In designing the coastal structures, the accurate estimation of the wave forces on them is of great importance. In this paper, the influences of the phase difference on wave pressure acting on a composite breakwater installed in the three-dimensional (3-D) wave field are studied numerically. We extend the earlier model [Hur, D.S., Mizutani, N., 2003. Coastal Engineering 47, 329–345] to simulate 3-D wave fields by introducing 3-D Navier–Stokes solver with the Smagorinsky's sub-grid scale (SGS) model. For the validation of the model, the wave field around a 3-D asymmetrical structure installed on a submerged breakwater, in which the complex wave deformations generate, is simulated, and the numerical solutions are compared to the experimental data reported by Hur, Mizutani, Kim [2004. Coastal Engineering (51, 407–420)]. The model is then adopted to investigate 3-D characteristics of wave pressure and force on a caisson of composite breakwater, and the numerical solutions were discussed with respect to the phase difference between harbor and seaward sides induced by the transmitted wave through the rubble mound or the diffraction. The numerical results reveal that wave forces acting on the composite breakwater are significantly different at each cross-section under influence of wave diffraction that is important parameter on 3-D wave interaction with coastal structures.     

A nonlinear wave profile correction of the diffraction of a wave by a long breakwater: Fixed point approach

The authors of the present paper have suggested an iterative scheme to calculate the nonlinear wave profiles [Jang and Kwon, 2005. Application of nonlinear iteration scheme to the nonlinear water wave problem: Stokes wave. Ocean Engineering 32, 1862–1872]. The scheme was shown to be good for estimating nonlinear wave profiles. In the study, the iterative scheme is applied to the wave-diffraction problem by a long breakwater to calculate a diffracted wave by the breakwater. The iterative solution of diffraction was compared with the linear solution of Sommerfeld, 1896. [Mathematische Theoried der Diffraction. Mathematical Annals 47, 317–374]. For a small wave slope, the two solutions were in good agreement. However, the scheme enabled us to observe the nonlinear behaviors of a beating phenomenon and of wave profile such as Stokes’ wave for a relatively large wave slope: as the wave slope becomes larger, we can examine the nonlinear wave characteristics of the actual shapes of waves, i.e., the crests are steeper and the troughs are flatter.     

An asymptotic theory of combined wave refraction and diffraction

A uniformly valid asymptotic theory for water waves is presented, which accounts for the combined effects of refraction due to slowly varying water depth and diffraction by a semi-infinite thin break water. The present theory is more rigorous and generical than the approximate solution developed by Liu and Mei, which becomes invalid near the edge and the tip of the breakwater. The effects of wave breaking are ignored.     

A three-dimensional modeling of multidirectional random wave diffraction by rectangular submarine pits

A three-dimensional modeling of multidirectional random-wave diffraction by a group of rectangular submarine pits is presented in this paper. The fluid domain is divided into N interior regions representing the pit area and an overall exterior region separated by the imaginary pit boundaries. In the interior region, the analytical expressions of the Fourier series expansion for velocity potentials in the pit regions have been derived with the unknown coefficients determined from a series of Green's function based boundary integral equations. The boundary integral approach has also been applied to obtain the velocity potential and free-surface elevation in the exterior region. The Pierson–Moskowitz (P–M) frequency spectrum was selected for the random wave simulation using the superposition of solutions of a finite number of decomposed wave components. Numerical results for the cases of regular waves and random waves are presented to examine the influences of the pit geometry and incident wave condition on the overall wave field. The general diffraction pattern of alternate bands of increase and decrease of relative wave height in front of the pit system can be observed. It is found that, in the shadow region, the relative wave height is reduced. As the number of pit increases, the effectiveness of reducing the relative wave height behind the multiple-pit system increases. However, the relative wave height within the pit area and in front of the leading pit shows increasing trend. It is noticed that under the random-wave condition, the level of increase and decrease of the relative wave height due to the existence of submarine pits is less pronounced than that observed from results in regular-wave condition.     

An approximate solution for the wave energy shadow in the lee of an array of overtopping type wave energy converters

In this study we investigate how the wave energy deficit in the lee of an array of overtopping type wave energy converting devices (WECs), redistributes with distance from the array due to the natural variability of the wave climate and wave structure interactions. Wave directional spreading has previously been identified as the dominant mechanism that disperses the wave energy deficit, reducing the maximum wave height reduction with increasing distance from the array. In addition to this when waves pass by objects such as an overtopping type WEC device, diffracted waves re-distribute the incident wave energy and create a complex interference pattern. The effect of wave energy redistribution from diffraction on the wave energy shadow in the near and far field is less obvious. In this study, we present an approximate analytical solution that describes the diffracted and transmitted wave field about a single row array of overtopping type WECs, under random wave conditions. This is achieved with multiple superpositions of the analytical solutions for monochromatic unidirectional waves about a semi-infinite breakwater, extended to account for partial reflection and transmission. The solution is used to investigate the sensitivity of the far field wave energy shadow to the array configuration, level of energy extraction, incident wave climate, and diffraction. Our results suggest that diffraction spreads part of the wave energy passing through the array, away from the direct shadow region of the array. This, in part, counteracts the dispersion of the wave energy deficit from directional spreading.     

Scattering of obliquely incident water waves by partially reflecting non-transmitting breakwaters

In the present paper, analytic solutions are derived for scattering of water waves obliquely incident to a partially reflecting semi-infinite breakwater or breakwater gap. In order to examine the correctness of the derived solutions, they are compared with the solutions derived by McIver (1999) and Bowen and McIver (2002) for a semi-infinite breakwater and a breakwater gap, respectively, in the case of perfect reflection. The derived analytic solutions are used to investigate the effect of reflection coefficient of the breakwater and wave incident angle upon the tranquility at harbor entrance. The tranquility is deteriorated by the reflected waves as the reflection coefficient increases and as waves are incident more obliquely.     

基于海浪谱的沉箱式防波堤动力分析方法

利用海浪谱JONSWAP谱生成随机波浪,并结合改进的波浪力时程模型生成一个连续的、持续时间相对较长的随机波浪力作用过程。假设五十年设计基准期内防波堤每年遭受一次风暴,利用波浪谱随机生成五十次风暴波浪作用过程,对防波堤五十年设计基准期的响应过程进行一次随机模拟,以此作为一个样本。经过对大量随机模拟产生的样本进行统计分析,实现对防波堤整个设计基准期内的安全度进行概率评估。最后,通过算例对该方法的应用进行了演示。     

Internal generation of waves on an arc in a rectangular grid system

This paper presents a technique to generate waves at oblique angles in finite difference numerical models in a rectangular grid system by using internal generation technique [Lee, C., Suh, K.D., 1998. Internal generation of waves for time-dependent mild-slope equations. Coast. Eng. 34, 35–57.] along an arc-shaped line source. Tests were made for four different types of wave generation layouts. Quantitative experiments were conducted under the following conditions: the propagation of waves on a flat bottom, the refraction and shoaling of waves on a planar slope, and the diffraction of waves to a semi-infinite breakwater. Numerical experiments were conducted using the extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [Suh, K.D., Lee, C., Park, W.S., 1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coast. Eng. 32, 91–117.]. The fourth layout type consisting of two parallel lines connected to a semicircle showed the best solutions, especially for a small grid size. This technique is useful for the numerical simulation of irregular waves with broad-banded directional spectrum using conventional spectral wave models for the reasonable estimation of bottom friction and wave-breaking.     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

An analytical approach for the calculation of random wave forces on submerged tunnels

This paper deals with the random forces produced by high ocean waves on submerged horizontal circular cylinders. Arena [Arena F, Interaction between long-crested random waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. Phys Fluids 2006;18(7):1–9 (paper 076602)] obtained the analytical solution of the random wave field for two dimensional waves by extending the classical Ogilvie solution [Ogilvie TF, First- and second-order forces on a cylinder submerged under a free surface. J Fluid Mech 1963;16:451–472; Arena F, Note on a paper by Ogilvie: The interaction between waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. J Fluid Mech 1999;394:355–356] to the case of random waves. In this paper, the wave force acting on the cylinder is investigated and the Froude Krylov force [Sarpkaya T, Isaacson M, Mechanics of wave forces on offshore structures, Van Nostrand Reinhold Co.; 1981], on the ideal water cylinder, is calculated from the random incident wave field. Both forces represent a Gaussian random process of time. The diffraction coefficient of the wave force is obtained as quotient between the standard deviations of the force on the solid cylinder and of the Froude Krylov force. It is found that the diffraction coefficient of the horizontal force C_do is equal to the C_dv of the vertical force. Finally, it is shown that, since a very large wave force occurs on the cylinder, it may be calculated, in time domain, starting from the Froude Krylov force. It is then shown that this result is due to the fact that the frequency spectrum of the force acting on the cylinder is nearly identical to that of the Froude–Krylov force.     

A general theory of three-dimensional wave groups Part II: Interaction with a breakwater

The equation obtained in Part I predicts how an exceptionally high wave occurs at any fixed point within a wind wave field. The equation may be applied with a theoretical spectrum or directly with the random time series obtained by an array of wave gauges in the field. From both approaches, it emerges that a very high wave at a breakwater occurs because a well-defined three-dimensional wave group at the apex of its development hits against the breakwater, and that a very high wave at some distance before the breakwater occurs because of the collision of two wave groups: the first one going back after having been reflected, and the second one approaching the breakwater. In order to test the theory, a special breakwater was assembled off the beach at Reggio-Calabria where the significant height of the wind waves typically ranges from 0.20 to 0.40 m. When an exceptionally high wave (H = 9.6 σ) occurred at a point before this breakwater, the records made by a gauge array confirmed all the essential features of the prediction.     

Probability distribution of random wave–current forces

Based on the second-order solutions obtained for the three-dimensional weakly nonlinear random waves propagating over a steady uniform current in finite water depth, the joint statistical distribution of the velocity and acceleration of the fluid particle in the current direction is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random forces caused by waves propagating over a steady uniform current are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. The distributions presented can be determined by the wave number spectrum of ocean waves, current speed and the second order wave–wave and wave–current interactions. As an illustrative example, for fully developed deep ocean waves, the parameters appeared in the distributions near still water level are calculated for various wind speeds and current speeds by using Donelan–Pierson–Banner spectrum and the effects of the current and the nonlinearity of ocean waves on the distribution are studied.     

Multidirectional wave transformation around detached breakwaters

The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching.