Coupled process-based cyclone surge simulation for the Bay of Bengal

We have developed a wind-wave-surge coupled process-based numerical model for simulating storm surge, consisting of a meso-scale atmospheric model (MM5), a third-generation spectral wave model (WW3) and a coastal ocean model (POM). We introduced an additional sea surface shear stress by wave dissipation into the model to consider the process of energy transfer from winds to currents through whitecap breaking. We demonstrate the importance of this energy transfer path through a hindcast simulation of a cyclone surge in April, 1991 in the Bay of Bengal: it helps generate mean current and has wave effects on wind-induced current fields in extremely shallow water areas.     

大亚湾风暴潮波浪传播数学模型

本文建立了大亚湾风暴潮涌浪传播数学模型,以任意多边形离散计算海区,每一多边形构成单元,以波浪运动学和动力学守恒方程模拟单元内能量传递,以风暴潮过程模拟边界入射波高过程,用风暴潮涌浪传播基本方程和波能缓坡方程结合模拟湾口巨浪向湾内的传播过程。通过分析大亚湾不同种类岸线反射系数的概率分布,并结合实测波高对模型进行率定,最终确定模型参数。将大亚湾特征点计算波高与统计推荐波高比较进行模型验证,结果显示SE向波高与H_(13%)推荐波高对应较好,可以用于大亚湾海区的波浪预报。计算当大亚湾口分别出现10年一遇、50年一遇及100年一遇的波高时,在E、ESE以及ES向入射波浪条件下大亚湾海域极值波高的分布。分别对风暴潮涌浪在不同类型岸线的爬高以及风暴潮涌浪传播对岸线的作用力进行计算。     

Wave-tide-surge coupled simulation for typhoon Maemi

The main task of this study focuses on studying the effect of wave-current interaction on currents, storm surge and wind wave as well as effects of current induced wave refraction and current on waves by using numerical models which consider the bottom boundary layer and sea surface roughness parameter for shallow and smooth bed area around Korean Peninsula. The coupled system (unstructured-mesh SWAN wave and ADCIRC) run on the same unstructured mesh. This identical and homogeneous mesh allows the physics of wave-circulation interactions to be correctly resolved in both models. The unstructured mesh can be applied to a large domain allowing all energy from deep to shallow waters to be seamlessly followed. There is no nesting or overlapping of structured wave meshes, and no interpolation is required. In response to typhoon Maemi (2003), all model components were validated independently, and shown to provide a faithful representation of the system’s response to this storm. The waves and storm surge were allowed to develop on the continental shelf and interact with the complex nearshore environment. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for prediction of the typhoon surge. The result show that it is important to incorporate the wave-current interaction effect into coastal area in the wave-tide-surge coupled model. At the same time, it should consider effects of depth-induced wave breaking, wind field, currents and sea surface elevation in prediction of waves. Specially, we found that: (1) wave radiation stress enhanced the current and surge elevation otherwise wave enhanced nonlinear bottom boundary layer decreased that, (2) wind wave was significantly controlled by sea surface roughness thus we cautiously took the experimental expression. The resulting modeling system can be used for hindcasting (prediction) the wave-tide-surge coupled environments at complex coastline, shallow water and fine sediment area like areas around Korean Peninsula.     

The effect of wave–current interactions on the storm surge and inundation in Charleston Harbor during Hurricane Hugo 1989

The effects of wave–current interactions on the storm surge and inundation induced by Hurricane Hugo in and around the Charleston Harbor and its adjacent coastal regions are examined by using a three-dimensional (3-D) wave–current coupled modeling system. The 3-D storm surge and inundation modeling component of the coupled system is based on the Princeton ocean model (POM), whereas the wave modeling component is based on the third-generation wave model, simulating waves nearshore (SWAN). The results indicate that the effects of wave-induced surface, bottom, and radiation stresses can separately or in combination produce significant changes in storm surge and inundation. The effects of waves vary spatially. In some areas, the contribution of waves to peak storm surge during Hurricane Hugo reached as high as 0.76 m which led to substantial changes in the inundation and drying areas simulated by the storm surge model.     

Harmonic Energy Transfer for Extreme Waves in Current

Ning et al. (2015) developed a 2D fully nonlinear potential model to investigate the interaction between focused waves and uniform currents. The effects of uniform current on focusing wave crest, focal time and focal position were given. As its extension, harmonic energy transfer for focused waves in uniform current is studied using the proposed model by Ning et al. (2015) and Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT) technique in this study. It shows that the strong opposing currents, inducing partial wave blocking and reducing the extreme wave crest, make the nonlinear energy transfer non-reversible in the focusing and defocusing processes. The numerical results also provide an explanation to address the shifts of focal points in consideration of the combination effects of wave nonlinearity and current.     

Modeling of storm-induced coastal flooding for emergency management

This paper describes a model package that simulates coastal flooding resulting from storm surge and waves generated by tropical cyclones. The package consists of four component models implemented at three levels of nested geographic regions, namely, ocean, coastal, and nearshore. The operation is automated through a preprocessor that prepares the computational grids and input atmospheric conditions and manages the data transfer between components. The third generation spectral wave model WAM and a nonlinear long-wave model calculate respectively the wave conditions and storm surge over the ocean region. The simulation results define the water levels and boundary conditions for the model SWAN to transform the storm waves in coastal regions. The storm surge and local tides define the water level in each nearshore region, where a Boussinesq model uses the wave spectra output from SWAN to simulate the surf-zone processes and runup along the coastline. The package is applied to hindcast the coastal flooding caused by Hurricanes Iwa and Iniki, which hit the Hawaiian Island of Kauai in 1982 and 1992, respectively. The model results indicate good agreement with the storm-water levels and overwash debris lines recorded during and after the events, demonstrating the capability of the model package as a forecast tool for emergency management.     

波浪、潮流和风暴潮耦合模式及悬沙输移规律的研究

近年来，由于河口、海岸地区的泥沙运动与港口、航道以及海岸的冲淤有着直接的关系，对一些海岸建筑物比如防波堤、护岸工程等造成一定的威胁，甚至于使其完全丧失使用价值，造成巨大的损失。为此人们越来越重视对这一问题的研究。本文为估计岸滩的冲淤变化和了解岸滩的演变规律，对影响泥沙运动的海洋动力要素进行了研究。 为研究悬沙的输移规律，建立了一个由两部分组成的二维悬沙模型系统：①水动力模式。建立了一个综合多因素的二维波浪、潮汐和风暴潮耦合模式，以此来研究波、潮、风暴潮间的相互作用，并为泥沙计算提供流速场。②二维悬沙模式。运用得出的流场来研究悬沙的输移扩散规律。其中所采用的波浪模式是将流对波浪场的影响同时加以考虑的耦合数学模型，将流速加入波能方程，并考虑由于水面的升降而产生的不定常水深对波浪场的影响，再将波浪场对流场的影响通过辐射应力、考虑波浪影响的底应力以及依赖波龄的表面风应力耦合到流场中，从而建立了一个综合多种因素的波浪、潮汐、风暴潮联合作用下的二维悬沙模型系统。并在此模型系统的基础上，对黄河口泥沙的输移问题作了探讨，为今后的防堤、护岸工程提供依据。     

Tide and surge dynamics along the Iberian Atlantic coast

The eastern Atlantic barotropic dynamics (in a region spanning from 20° N to 48° N and 34° W to 0°) are studied through numerical modelling and in situ measurements. The main source of data is the tidal gauge network REDMAR, managed by Clima Marítimo (Puertos del Estado). The numerical model employed is the HAMSOM, developed both by the Institut für Meereskunde (Hamburg University) and Clima Marítimo.In this paper, tidal and storm surge dynamics are studied for the region, focusing particularly on the nonlinear transfer of energy between the different forcings.The results of tidal simulations show good agreement between semidiurnal harmonic components and the values obtained from the tidal gauges (both coastal and pelagic) and current metres. The nonlinear transfers of energy from semidiurnal to higher order harmonics, such as M4 and M6, were mapped. Those transfers were found to be important in only two areas: The French continental shelf in the Bay of Biscay and the widest part of the African shelf, south of Cabo Bojador. The modelled diurnal constituents show larger relative differences with measurements than semidiurnal harmonics, especially in data concerning the phase.A method to isolate the nonlinear transfers of energy between tidal and atmospheric forcing during a storm surge was developed. These transfers were found to be significant in the same areas where tidal nonlinear activity was present. The effect of short period wind generated waves on sea surface elevation was also investigated. The magnitude of the spatial derivatives of radiation stress was compared with wind-induced stress. As a result of this comparison, we found the inclusion of a forcing term that depends on radiation stress in ocean model simulations at this scale and resolution to be not essential. The effect of computing wind-induced stresses, with a formulation that explicitly depends on sea state, was also explored by means of a coupled run of the HAMSOM and the spectral wave model WAM for a storm surge event in the Spanish coast. This formulation was not found to be an improvement over a classical parameterisation which only depends on wind fields.     

Static wave setup with emphasis on damping effects by vegetation and bottom friction

Wave setup can contribute significantly to elevated water levels during severe storms. In Florida we have found that wave setup can be 30% to 60% of the total 100-year storm surge. In areas with relatively narrow continental shelves, such as many locations along the Pacific Coast of the United States, wave setup can be an even larger proportionate contributor of anomalous water levels during major storms. Wave setup can be considered as comprising two components, with the first being the well-known static wave setup resulting from the transfer of breaking wave momentum to the water column. The second, oscillating component, is a result of nonlinear transfer of energy and momentum from the primary (linear) spectrum to waves with length and time scales on the order of the wave groups.Static wave setup is the focus of this paper with emphasis on effects due to internal or surface forces that act on the wave system and cause both dissipation of wave energy and transfer of momentum. In particular, the effects of wave damping by vegetation and bottom friction are considered. Linear wave theory is applied to illustrate these effects and, for shallow water waves, the setup is reduced by two-thirds the amount that would occur if the same amount of energy dissipation occurred in the absence of forces. Effects of nonlinear waves are then considered and it is found, for a shallow water wave of approximately one-half breaking height, that a wave setdown rather than setup occurs due to damping by vegetation and bottom friction.The problem of wave setup as waves propagate through vegetation was stimulated by studies to establish hazard zones associated with 100-year storm events along the shorelines of the United States. These storms can generate elevated water levels exceeding 4 to 6 m and can result in overland wave propagation. As these waves propagate through vegetation and damp, the question arose as to the contribution of this process to elevated mean water levels through additional wave setup.     

台湾附近海域超强台风南玛都期间风暴潮对海浪影响的数值研究

采用海浪模式(Simulating Waves Nearshore,SWAN)与风暴潮模式(Advanced Circulation Model,ADCIRC)的耦合模式,模拟研究了2011年第11号超强台风南玛都期间,风暴潮对海浪的影响。通过对比耦合模式和非耦合模式模拟结果,发现对于该超强台风过程,台风中心附近的大浪区内风暴潮对海浪有显著影响:在台风中心沿前进方向的右前方,风暴潮使海浪波高减小;在台风中心和台风中心的左后方,风暴潮使海浪波高增大。台风进入台湾海峡之前,风暴潮对海浪波高的最大影响为10%左右;进入台湾海峡后,受地形和潮汐潮流的影响,海浪波高受到的最大影响增大到25%左右。上述结果对台风期间的海浪模拟有一定参考价值。     

洋山港海域一次冷锋型温带风暴潮特征及各影响因子贡献的对比分析

本文研究了由2020年12月29日至31日强冷锋引起的影响洋山港海域的温带风暴潮过程。通过气象观测数据分析了其天气过程, 并利用FVCOM-SWAVE波浪-风暴潮耦合模式对该过程进行了高分辨率的数值模拟, 同时结合潮位站及浮标站观测数据对模拟结果进行了验证, 分析模拟了波浪、潮流、风暴增减水特征。结果发现, 该次冷锋型温带风暴潮过程主要表现为先短时风暴增水后出现长时间风暴减水的特征, 最大风暴减水可达65~70cm, 其主要诱因包括研究海域气压的快速升高并维持、长时间持续的偏北大风及波流相互作用。相关敏感试验研究了3种因子对风暴增减水位的贡献大小, 发现风暴增水峰值期间风场贡献占比约为90%, 海平面气压场约为5%; 风暴减水峰值期间, 海平面气压场的贡献度约占55%, 风场约占40%, 而波浪的贡献均不足10%。洋山港航道内风暴期间潮流流速最大可达到2.6~2.8m•s^-1, 落潮时为东南向离岸潮流, 涨潮时为西至西北方向的外海潮波传入潮流; 洋山港航道潮流始终是东南或西北向, 此处流速辐合, 是洋山海域流速最高的区域。     

Fully Nonlinear Time Domain Analysis for Hydrodynamic Performance of An Oscillating Wave Surge Converter

The hydrodynamic behaviour of an oscillating wave surge converter (OWSC) in large motion excited by nonlinear waves is investigated. The mechanism through which the wave energy is absorbed in the nonlinear system is analysed. The mathematical model used is based on the velocity potential theory together with the fully nonlinear boundary conditions on the moving body surface and deforming free surface. The problem is solved by the boundary element method. Numerical results are obtained to show how to adjust the mechanical properties of the OWSC to achieve the best efficiency in a given wave, together with the nonlinear effect of the wave height. Numerical results are also provided to show the behaviour of a given OWSC in waves of different frequencies and different heights.     

A coupled discrete wave model MRI-II

An ocean wind-wave prediction model MRI-II is developed on the basis of the energy balance equation which contains five energy transfer processes, namely, the input by the wind, the nonlinear transfer among the components of windsea by resonant wave-wave interactions, wave breaking, frictional dissipation and the effect of opposing winds. The nonlinear energy transfer is expressed implicitly together with the wind effect by Toba's one-parameter representation of windsea, but neither swell-swell nor swell-windsea resonant interactions are considered. Hypothetical assumptions are introduced to describe wave breaking effects. The numerical constant required in the assumptions of wave breaking is determined through trial test runs for a hindcast performed on the North-western Pacific Ocean. The significant wave height, one-dimensional wave spectrum and two-dimensional wave spectrum hindcasted by this new model are in more reasonable agreement with observations than those obtained with our old model MRI.     

系泊方柱在畸形波与波群伴生波浪作用下运动响应试验研究

畸形波与波群伴生波浪作用于系泊浮体,和常规随机波浪作用比较,运动响应时频域特征均将发生显著变化。基于物理模型试验,采用小波方法计算伴生波浪和常规随机波浪作用下系泊浮体运动响应的时频域特征变化及波群因子与浮体运动响应时频域特征的定量关系。结果表明:伴生波浪作用下浮体运动响应显著大于常规随机波浪的作用结果,且波群因子G A对浮体运动响应时频域特征有显著影响;伴生波浪作用下浮体纵荡运动的广义能量谱E(t)统计特征值E max(t)、E 1/10(t)、E 1/3(t)、E average(t)均明显大于相同波谱下常规随机波浪的结果,且随着波群因子G A增大显著增大;伴生波浪作用下各运动响应能量集中度δE显著大于常规随机波浪作用结果,且能量集中时域分布范围参数ΔT E以纵荡运动分量最为显著。     

数值模式与统计模型相耦合的近岸海浪预报方法

针对数值模式和统计模型预报近岸海浪存在的局限性,构建了数值模式和统计模型相耦合的近岸海浪预报框架,在模式计算格点和近岸预报目标点之间定义一个海浪能量密度谱传递系数,通过经验正交函数分解和卡尔曼滤波方法建立传递系数的统计预报模型并与数值模式进行耦合。经过对近岸波浪观测站1a的预报试验表明:该方法能够提高近岸海浪有效波高预报精度,有效波高的均方根误差降低了约0.16m,平均相对误差降低约9%。进一步试验和分析发现,该方法的预报有效时间小于24h,将海浪能量密度谱经过分解后得到的基本模态反映了近岸波侯的主要特征,海浪能量密度谱传递系数的变化体现了波侯的季节变化特点。     

A synchronously coupled tide–wave–surge model of the Yellow Sea

A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been established in this study in order to investigate the effect of tides, storm surges, and wind waves interactions during a winter monsoon on November 1983 in the Yellow Sea. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM-Cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress generated by interactions between wind and waves is calculated using the WAM-Cycle 4 directly based on an analytical approximation of the results obtained from the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes of bottom friction factor generated by waves and current interactions are calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. The model simulations showed that bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient induced by combination of wave and current were increased in shallow waters of up to 50 m in the Yellow Sea during the wintertime strong storm conditions.     

辐射应力对台风风暴潮预报的影响和数值研究

台风过程期间,风暴潮和海浪是相伴相生的,相互作用的.波致辐射应力对于近岸风暴增、减水起着十分重要的作用,传统的海浪模式计算辐射应力耗时较多,不能满足业务化预报的要求.根据已有波浪辐射应力的理论表达式,经过严密的数学推导,适当的简化处理,提出了一个较为简单的波浪辐射应力表达式,并将其应用到业务化风暴潮数值预报模式中去,通...     

Constrained near-optimal control of a wave energy converter in three oscillation modes

This paper investigates the performance of a small axisymmetric buoy under wave-by-wave near optimal control in surge, heave, and pitch modes in long-crested irregular waves. Wave prediction is obtained using a deterministic propagation model. The paper describes the overall formulation leading up to the derivation of the feedforward control forces in surge and heave, and the control moment in pitch. The radiation coupling between surge and pitch modes is accounted for in the model. Actuation is relative to deeply submerged reaction masses. Heave oscillations are constrained by the swept-volume limit. Oscillation constraints are also applied on the surge and pitch oscillations. The paper discusses time-domain simulations for an irregular wave input with and without the present control. Also discussed are results obtained over a range of irregular wave conditions derived for energy periods from 7 s to 17 s, and a significant wave height of 1 m. It is found that, while the gains in power capture enabled by the present control are significant, the actuation forces are also very large, given the small size of the buoy. Further, due to the small size, heave is found to be the dominant contributor to power capture, with relatively modest contributions from surge and pitch.     

Triangular Configuration Tension Leg Platform behaviour under random sea wave loads

This study investigates the dynamic response of a Triangular Configuration Tension Leg Platform (TLP) under random sea wave loads. The random wave has been generated synthetically using the Monte-Carlo simulation with the Peirson–Moskowitz (P–M) spectrum. Diffraction effects and second-order wave forces have not been considered. The evaluation of hydrodynamic forces is carried out using the modified Morison equation with water particle kinematics evaluated using Airy's linear wave theory. Wave forces are taken to be acting in the surge degree-of-freedom. The effect of coupling of various structural degrees-of-freedom (surge, sway, heave, roll, pitch and yaw) on the dynamic response of the TLP under random wave loads is studied. Parametric studies for random waves with different H_s and T_z under the presence of current have also been carried out. For the orientation of the TLP, surge, heave and pitch degrees-of-freedom responses are influenced significantly. The surge power spectral density function (PSDF) indicates that the mean square response is affected by the amplification at the natural frequency of the surge degree-of-freedom and also at the peak frequency of the wave loading. The PSDF of the heave response shows higher peak values near the surge frequency and near the peak frequency of the wave loading. Surge response, therefore, influences heave response to the maximum. Variable submergence seems to be a major source of nonlinearity and significantly enhances the responses in surge, heave and pitch degrees-of-freedom. In the presence of current, the response behaviour of the TLP is altered significantly introducing a non-zero mean response in all degrees-of-freedom.     

初始倾斜跃层所致内波的数值研究

The pycnocline in a closed domain is tilted by external wind forcing and tends to restore to a level posi- tion when the wind falls. An internal seiche oscillation exhibits if the forcing is weak, otherwise internal surge and internal solitary waves emerge, which serve as a link to cascade energy to small-scale processes. A two-dimensional non-hydrostatic code with a turbulence closure model is constructed to extend previous laboratory studies. The model could reproduce all the key phenomena observed in the corresponding labo- ratory experiments. The model results further serve as a comprehensive and reliable data set for an in-depth understanding of the related dynamical process. The comparative analyses indicate that nonlinear term favors the generation of internal surge and subsequent internal solitary waves, and the linear model predicts the general trend reasonably well. The vertical boundary can approximately reflect all the incoming waves, while the slope boundary serves as an area for small-scale internal wave breaking and energy dissipation. The temporal evolutions of domain integrated kinetic and potential energy are also analyzed, and the results indicate that about 20% of the initial available potential energy is lost during the first internal wave breaking process. Some numerical tactics such as grid topology and model initialization are also briefly discussed.