基于浮标站和ERA5 再分析资料的浙江沿海台风浪特征分析

为了分析台风影响下浙江沿海风和浪的演变特点，利用浙江省海洋浮标站监测数据和欧洲中期天气预报中心第五代全球气候大气再分析数据（European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts Reanalysis v5，ERA5），选取2010年以来严重影响浙江的7次台风个例，对台风作用下浙江沿海海面风和浪的演变特点进行分析。结果表明：在台风影响过程中，海浪波型多数呈现混合浪-风浪-混合浪的演变规律；涌浪波型的出现与台风强度及其与浮标站的距离和方位有关，也与海洋潮汐现象紧密相关。台风影响期间，浙江沿海浪高的变化受风速和风向共同作用影响。在风向不变的情况下，持续风速增大对浪高的增大有明显作用；风向的变化也会对浪高变化产生影响，向岸风和离岸风的转变会造成浪高出现剧烈变化。ERA5 再分析资料有效波高在台风浪较大时会呈现偏小的趋势，分析订正后的ERA5 有效波高发现，台风浪有效波高大值区与台风中心位置相关。研究结果可为严重影响浙江沿海的台风浪预报服务提供参考。     

Short-wave measurements by a fixed tower-based and a drifting buoysystem

The small-scale roughness of the sea surface acts as an important link in air-sea interaction processes. Radar and sonar waves are scattered by short surface waves providing the basis for remote sensing methods of the sea surface. At high wind speeds, breaking waves occur. Bubbles penetrate into the water and drastically increase acoustical reverberation, transmission loss and ambient noise. Thus, the development of short waves and wave breaking have to be known to apply radar remote sensing to the surface and to deduce from radar backscatter which sonar conditions prevail. To measure the wind dependence of short waves an experimental device was constructed for use from stationary platforms. It is nearly all-weather capable and can easily be handled by a crane. On the other hand, frequencies of short waves measured in a fixed position are extremely frequency shifted by currents. This limits the usefulness of tower-based measurements, e.g., the short wave modulation by wind and waves or currents can only be estimated in a rough approximation. Consequently, a buoy was developed to reduce the frequency shifts. The principle of the buoy is to drift in the local surface current and to follow the amplitudes of long waves. Therefore, short waves are measured in facets of long waves and the Doppler shifts are minimized. The wind is measured at a constant height above the long wave profile and relative to the moving facets. The paper describes the conventional measuring device and points out the necessity of the drifting buoy system. Examples of wind and wave spectra are presented and short wave modulations by long waves are depicted, too. From these measurements, new insights in short wave behaviour have to be expected     

系泊定位状态下半潜式浮体波浪爬升性能试验研究

随着深海油气田的快速发展,新兴的浮式生产系统,尤其是半潜式平台,由于具有性能优良、运动响应小、工作水深适用范围广、抗风浪荷载能力强等优点,在工程实际中得到快速的发展。在半潜式平台设计过程中,气隙和斜浪作用下的波浪爬升问题对其安全性能的影响至关重要。通过采用系泊定位状态下的四立柱半潜式平台进行波浪爬升实验,对平台不同位置进行全方位的监测,而后对测量数据进行分析,得出关于海浪对半潜式平台气隙响应的影响和相关规律,为半潜式平台的设计提供参考。     

Statistical study on the local equilibrium between wind and wind waves by using data from ocean data buoy stations

The local equilibrium between the wind and wind waves, which is defined by a range of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law between the non-dimensional significant wave height and period, is statistically investigated by using wind and wave data obtained at four ocean data buoy stations in the seas near Japan. The friction velocity is calculated from the wind speed measured at one height together with the significant wave period by using formulas of the wave dependent drag coefficient proposed by Tobaet al. (1990). The data for small waves or for weak winds indicate that the waves do not satisfy the criterion for the local equilibrium, because they may be affected by changing winds or remotely generated swells. In the seas near Japan, the data which satisfy the local equilibrium are about 6% through a year. Otherwise swells are dominant in most situations. Changing winds also cause deviations from the local equilibrium. The degree of satisfaction of the local equilibrium can be classified by ranges of the significant wave height. As the significant wave height exceeds 4 m, the local equilibrium is more frequently satisfied.     

A Spectral Approach for Determining Altimeter Wind Speed Model Functions

We propose a new analytical algorithm for the estimation of wind speeds from altimeter data using the mean square slope of the ocean surface, which is obtained by integration of a widely accepted wind-wave spectrum including the gravity-capillary wave range. It indicates that the normalized radar cross section depends not only on the wind speed but also on the wave age. The wave state effect on the altimeter radar return becomes remarkable with increasing wind speed and cannot be neglected at high wind speeds. A relationship between wave age and nondimensional wave height based on buoy observational data is applied to compute the wave age using the significant wave height of ocean waves, which could be simultaneously obtained from altimeter data. Comparison with actual data shows that this new algorithm produces more reliable wind speeds than do empirical algorithms. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Analysis of the Voyager storm

We analyse the wind and wave conditions present in the Mediterranean Sea at the time and location when the cruise ship Voyager was reportedly hit by one or more big waves and suffered substantial damage. The analysis is done using wind and wave modelling supported by satellite and buoy wind and wave data. Granted the hindcast of the storm, we also analyse the local conditions for the possibility of freak waves.     

Near-surface current measurement from a surface following data buoy (DB1)—II. An harmonic and residual analysis of current meter records

This part of the paper examines near-surface current data from different periods during the test mooring of the data buoy, DB1.Harmonic analyses show that variations in the major tidal constituents between each period are not significantly greater than the standard error of the measurement: the differences observed in the principal lunar semi-diurnal tide are explained partly in terms of a modulation by adjacent constituents. Unexpected forms for the quarter diurnal tidal ellipses derived from the DB1 data have been found also in independent measurements, in which a different mooring technique had been used. These are therefore unlikely to be of instrumental origin.Non-tidal energy at periods exceeding three days is shown to correlate with changes in wind and surface elevation, the correspondence between wind and current being greatest during a period of strong winds, when current at 3 m depth was 0.9% of wind speed at 8 m. The data are interpreted in favour of an Eulerian current rather than Lagrangian Stokes transport due to waves. Rectification of wave orbital velocities due to buoy motion is not detectable.In view of the overall quality of the data it is concluded that this combination of surface following buoy and long-path acoustic current meter can contribute usefully to the determination of mean near-surface currents in the open sea.     

强台风“卡努”过境期间的风和海浪特征分析

南海北部海域夏季台风活动频繁,对海上生产活动和人民生命财产安全造成极大威胁,由于台风路径的不确定性,其中心附近区域的风浪观测资料十分稀少。中国气象局(China Meteorological Administration, CMA)热带气旋最佳路径数据显示2017年10月强台风“卡努”中心经过南海北部陆坡的SF301浮标,该浮标完整记录了台风过境的风浪数据。利用浮标观测资料,分析了强台风“卡努”过境期间的风和海浪特征。观测结果表明,“卡努”经过浮标时,中心气压为959.9 hPa,风速随时间呈双峰分布,前、后眼壁区的10 min平均风速分别为30.2 m/s和24.9 m/s, 1 s极大风速分别为44.2和38.6 m/s。海浪以风浪为主,观测有效波高和最大波高最大值分别为10.8和14.3 m,滞后最大风速30 min,波向和风向变化趋势一致。台风过境期间,有效波高与海面10 m风速接近线性关系,非台风期间二者呈二次多项式关系。海浪无因次波高和周期呈幂指数关系,无论是台风期间还是非台风期间二者关系十分接近Toba提出的3/2指数律。     

两种海面风场的对比及对海浪模拟的影响

海面风场在海浪模拟研究和预报中起着关键性的作用,再分析风场数据可为海浪模式提供长时间的大范围、高时空分辨率海面风场。利用日本浮标站资料和卫星高度计资料对再分析风场QuickSCAT/NCEP(Q/N)混合风场和ERA风场进行验证分析,并利用WAVEWATCH-Ⅲ模式进行连续12个月的数值模拟试验。对比风场和计算得到的海浪场得出结论:在风速较小的时候,ERA和Q/N风场较实测风场大,在风速较大的时候,ERA和Q/N风场较实测风场小;ERA风场模拟浪高较浮标观测波高偏小;Q/N混合风场模拟的浪高更接近实测浪高。     

The motion of a 9.1 m yacht hull buoy moored in open sea

A 9.1 m yacht hull was instrumented to measure its three-dimensional motion when moored in the open sea. The hull was deployed on three occasions for a total period of about 2 months and encountered a wide range of wind-wave conditions including a strong gale. The data have been analysed to give the response for each component of motion in terms of amplitude and relative phases. The hull motion is compared spectrally to the waves observed by a nearby Waverider. The hull was found to behave as a surface-keyed buoy, with a well defined response for a wide range of conditions. The presence of a resonance in pitch and roll is evident in the data with typical rms values being 5° and 10°, respectively, for significant wave height of 5 m. From data on the mooring dynamics it is concluded that the peaks observed in the tension are a result of the viscous drag opposing the change in the catenary of the mooring and the slow drift oscillations of the buoy. This type of hull is a versatile and economical candidate as a platform for meteorological and oceanographic instrumentation.     

秋末寒潮大风作用下南黄海西部流场及温、盐度变动特征分析

1983年11月中美首次在南黄海西部开展水文和地质联合调查,该调查共设5个浮标站和54个CTD站,其中CTD站所获的温、盐度和溶解氧、透光度资料早已有过一些报道,并获得了一些有益的结论(丁宗信等,1986;熊庆成等,1986;赵保仁等,1986)。但对这次调查所取得的浮标测流资料尚未有人进行认真的分析研究,也未曾报道过。这次测流还是比较成功的,所揭示的现象使人感到振奋,而且这也是迄今在南黄海西部使用浮标最多、时间最长的一次浮标阵测流工作。 本文试图结合1983年11月调查时的海上风速和沿岸水位变化进行综合分析,并对那里的环流状态提出一些初步看法,以利于对南黄海西部水域的海流变动特征和生成机制进行更深入的研究。     

海浪搅拌混合对北太平洋海表面温度模拟的影响

利用NCEP再分析风场驱动WAVEWATCH III海浪模式对北太平洋海域的海浪过程进行模拟,利用浮标观测资料对模拟出的海浪要素有效波高进行验证,发现他们之间具有很好的一致性。基于模式输出的有效波高等波浪要素,利用特征波参数化理论,在海洋环流模式中引入海浪搅拌混合作用,分析其对北太平洋海表面温度模拟的影响,初步数值模拟结果表明,sbPOM模式在考虑海浪搅拌混合作用以后,模拟精度进一步提升,这对提供一个准确的大气模式下边界条件具有重要作用。     

Moored fish cage dynamics in waves and currents

Recent work in the area of open ocean aquaculture system dynamics has focused separately upon either the response of fish cages in waves or the steady drag response due to ocean currents. In reality, however, forcing on these open ocean structures is a nonlinear, multidirectional combination of both wave and current profiles. At the University of New Hampshire-operated Open Ocean Aquaculture site, data were collected from a wave measurement buoy and a downward-looking Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler to characterize the surface elevation and water velocity profiles during an extreme northeast storm event. In addition to waves and currents, fish cage motion response in heave, surge, and pitch was inferred from accelerometer measurements during the same storm. The environmental data sets obtained during the peak of the storm were processed, analyzed, and used as input to a dynamic finite-element model. Simulations were performed using three load case scenarios: 1) in both waves and currents; 2) in waves only; and 3) in currents only. Model motion response results in both the time and frequency domain were compared with data obtained in situ . In addition to the motion response tests, the wave and current forcing influencing the mooring line tension response was also investigated. Analysis shows that in this case, the currents do not severely influence the oscillatory motion response, but do cause the cage to tilt, layback, and sink. The wave and current interaction effect did, however, influence the anchor line loads with a portion being attributed to nonlinear effects.     

2016年苏北近海风场和波浪场多时间尺度变化的数值模拟研究

利用高分辨率的大气和波浪数值模式,模拟了2016年苏北近海的风场和波浪场,并与卫星高度计资料、散射计风场、再分析资料以及实测浮标资料进行了比较,验证了模式的准确性。基于这套模式结果,系统地分析了江苏近海的风场和波浪场的多时间尺度变化:季节变化、日变化以及季节内变化(台风、寒潮)。分析结果表明:苏北近海海域的风速、有效波高和涌浪在冬季和秋季较大、春季和夏季较小;冬季盛行西北风,常浪向为西北向,夏季盛行东南风,常浪向为东南向。风场和波浪场还具有显著的日变化特征,且日变化存在季节变化规律,离岸越近海域日变化特征越明显。同时,江苏近海还会经历季节内尺度的强天气过程的影响,比如台风和寒潮。     

Hydrodynamic Analysis and Power Conversion for Point Absorber WEC with Two Degrees of Freedom Using CFD

Point absorber wave energy device with multiple degrees of freedom (DOF) is assumed to have a better absorption ability of mechanical energy from ocean waves. In this paper, a coaxial symmetric articulated point absorber wave energy converter with two degrees of freedom is presented. The mechanical equations of the oscillation buoy with power take-off mechanism (PTO) in regular waves are established. The three-dimensional numerical wave tank is built in consideration of the buoy motion based upon the CFD method. The appropriate simulation elements are selected for the buoy and wave parameters. The feasibility of the CFD method is verified through the contrast between the numerical simulation results of typical wave conditions and test results. In such case, the buoy with single DOF of heave, pitch and their coupling motion considering free (no PTO damping) and damped oscillations in regular waves are simulated by using the verified CFD method respectively. The hydrodynamic and wave energy conversion characteristics with typical wave conditions are analyzed. The numerical results show that the heave and pitch can affect each other in the buoy coupling motion, hydrodynamic loads, wave energy absorption and flow field. The total capture width ratio with two coupled DOF motion is higher than that with a single DOF motion. The wave energy conversion of a certain DOF motion may be higher than that of the single certain DOF motion even though the wave is at the resonance period. When the wave periods are high enough, the interaction between the coupled DOF motions can be neglected.     

偏航工况下海上浮式风力机基础运动响应及锚泊载荷影响分析

海上浮式风力机受风、浪、流等外部载荷影响,运营期间经常处于偏航工况,给风力机基础运动响应和锚泊载荷带来重要影响.基于经典叶素动量理论及势流理论,建立海上浮式风力机水—气动力耦合分析模型,对在非定常风、不规则波浪联合作用下,风力机偏航时基础运动响应及锚泊载荷等进行分析.研究发现,额定风速工况下,风力机偏航对平台纵荡和纵摇运动影响较大,偏航30°时纵荡和纵摇平均值比偏航0°时分别下降20.68％和37.36％,垂荡运动响应受风力机偏航影响较小;锚泊载荷变化趋势与平台运动及锚链布置有关,平台纵荡对锚泊载荷影响较大,偏航30°时锚链#1有效张力平均值比偏航0°时下降12.98％.     

Tsunami Wave Interaction with Data Buoys

To plan for proper mitigation measures, one should have an advanced knowledge of the phenomenon of tsunami propagation from the deep ocean to coastal waters. There are a few methods to predict tsunamis in the ocean waters; one method is the effective use of data buoy measurements. Although data buoys have been used along the Indian waters there has been a tremendous growth in the number of buoy deployment recently. Under the National Data Buoy Programme (NDBP) of India, the 2.2 m diameter discus data buoys were deployed along the east and west coasts of India for measuring meteorological and ocean parameters. It would be advantageous if these buoys could be efficiently used to measure rare events such as tsunamis. Understanding the dynamic behavior of the buoy is of prime importance if a tsunami warning system is to be successful. This may be accomplished through experimental or numerical studies. A comprehensive experimental study has been conducted to understand the dynamic behavior of a wave rider buoy exposed to a variety of waves. It is common that tsunami waves are represented in terms of shallow water waves, namely solitary and cnoidal waves. Hence, in the present study, the discus type data buoy is scale modeled and tested under the action of solitary and cnoidal waves in the laboratory. The time histories of wave elevations, as well as heave and pitch motions of the buoy model, were analyzed through a spectral approach as well as through wavelet transformations. The wavelet approach gives more detailed insight into the spectral characteristics of the buoy motion in the time scale. The harmonic analyses were performed for the cnoidal wave elevations and subsequent motion characteristics that give an insight into the energy variations. The details of the model, instrumentation, testing conditions and the results are presented in this paper.     

Swell-dominant surface waves observed by a moored buoy with a GPS wave sensor in Otsuchi Bay,a ria in Sanriku,Japan

Real-time monitoring of wind and surface waves in Otsuchi Bay, Iwate, Tohoku, Japan, commenced in October 2012, using a mooring buoy with an ultrasonic anemometer and a single-mode GPS wave sensor. Wind and wave data are distributed hourly in real time via the Internet along with a chart of their time series. We analyzed data monitored in the first 3 months in order to assess the variability and occurrence of wind and waves and to elucidate the main reasons for wave variation in Otsuchi Bay. The monitoring data revealed that surface waves in the bay were predominantly affected by swells propagated from the northeastern offshore region and that the wave height was significantly correlated with the component of wind velocity toward Otsuchi Bay in the northeastern offshore region that faces the bay mouth. The offshore wind field was expected to provide information useful for predicting coastal waves in a ria bay in Sanriku such as Otsuchi Bay. However, it should be emphasized that the horizontal distribution of the offshore wind field which has a significant effect on the surface waves in a ria bay depends heavily on the topographic shape of the bay.     

A note on the theoretical comparison of wave staffs and wave rider buoys in steep gravity waves

The sea surface displacements measured by a wave staff, fixed in horizontal position, and a wave rider buoy, which moves with the water particles, are compared. Second-order theory shows that, to this approximation, the second harmonic in the surface displacement is not measured by the wave rider. Here a simple approximation to maximum amplitude gravity waves is considered; then a freely floating wave rider gives an approximately sinusoidal record at a lower frequency than the wave, while a tethered wave rider gives results depending on the mooring system. The horizontal motion of a tethered buoy still affects the measurements, particularly of the second and higher harmonics.     

Buoy observations of the influence of swell on wind waves in the open ocean

The influence of longer (swell) on shorter, wind sea waves is examined using an extensive database of directional buoy measurements obtained from a heave-pitch-roll buoy moored in deep water in the South Atlantic. This data set is unique for such an investigation due to the ubiquitous presence of a young swell component propagating closely in direction and frequency with the wind sea, as well as a longer, opposing swell. Our results show, within the statistical limits of the regressions obtained from our analysis when compared to measurements in swell free environments, that there is no obvious influence of swell on wind sea growth. For operational purposes in ocean engineering this means that power-laws from fetch limited situations describing the wind sea growth can be applied in more realistic situations in the open sea when swell is present.