一种近岸区波浪破碎模型

从波浪破碎的能量关系入手,以紊流能量方程为基础,考虑破碎区内单个波在不同破碎阶段所提供的紊动能量强度的变化过程,提出了一种波浪破碎模式.通过将这一模型引入Boussinesq方程中,初步建立了一种近岸区波浪变形数学模型,并用波浪水槽实验资料对模型模拟波高和平均水位的情况进行了初步验证,得到了良好的结果.     

破碎立波对直墙建筑物作用机理的研究

建立二维非线性数值波浪水槽,模拟了规则波条件下破碎立波对直墙建筑物的作用.从直墙上压力分布和各测点的压力过程线等方面与物理模型实验结果进行比较,讨论了破碎立波的作用特点,分析了压力过程线出现马鞍形变化的原因.将破碎立波波浪力与按规范方法和立渡理论方法计算的结果进行了比较.通过对计算结果的的分析比较,验证了该数值模型的有效性.     

斜坡上波浪破碎与越浪非静压数值模拟

为合理确定防浪建筑物的越浪量,基于含非静水压力梯度项的非线性浅水方程建立了近岸波浪越浪数值模型。通过采用域内造波、消波并结合波前静压假定的破碎模型,模拟了规则波和不规则波在斜坡上的波浪传播变形,并在此基础上进行了越浪量数值计算。数值计算结果与物理模型实验结果表明,非静压模型可合理地描述波浪破碎点位置、破碎后的波高、增减水以及斜坡上的堤后越浪量。数值模型具有较高的计算精度和计算效率,可为实际工程防浪建筑物越浪以及堤顶高程的设计提供一种新的数值研究手段。     

波浪增减水的实用数学模型及其数值模拟

提出了一种模拟近岸区波浪增减水的实用数学模型.首先采用考虑波能损失的抛物型缓坡方程数值模拟波浪破碎引起的波浪复振幅变化,接着根据计算得到的波浪复振幅,采用一种新的辐射应力公式计算辐射应力分量,然后采用深度平均方程计算波浪破碎产生的增减水.采用该模型对规则波和不规则波破碎引起的增减水进行了数值模拟,数值模拟结果与实验结果吻合良好,表明该模型可有效模拟近岸区由于波浪破碎引起的增减水.     

SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪模拟研究

基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。     

礁坪上波浪传播的数值模拟

本文基于具备间断捕捉能力的二阶全非线性Boussinesq数值模型,对规则波和随机波在礁坪地形上的传播变形进行了数值模拟。该模型采用高阶有限体积法和有限差分方法求解守恒格式的控制方程,将波浪破碎视为间断,同时采用静态重构技术处理了海岸动边界问题。重点针对礁坪上波浪传播过程中的波高空间分布和沿程衰减,礁坪上的平均水位变化,以及波浪能量频谱的移动和空间差异等典型水动力现象开展数值计算。将数值结果与实验结果对比,两者吻合情况良好,验证了模型具有良好的稳定性,具备模拟破碎波浪和海-岸动边界的能力,能较为准确地模拟波浪在礁坪地形上的传播过程中发生的各种水动力现象。     

汕头近岸区的台风波浪 (二)后报台风波浪及其基本特征

本文采用《受陆岸影响浅水区台风风浪的推算方案》后报影响汕头近岸区的台风风浪，并以此与Ｔｈｏｍｐｓｏｎ关于波型的判据和合田良实的不同波型能量集中度的规定相结合，计算台风混合浪，经与现场实测资料相比较，效果良好；依４４年台风浪的后报结果，可以得到各场台风过程的波高，波能和主波向的变化以及后报台风较大浪时能随方向的分布     

垂向变化的波浪辐射应力影响下流场数值研究

采用浪流沙耦合模型COHEREN-SED模型进行黄河三角洲的海流三维运动数值模拟。文中将垂向平均的波浪辐射应力与垂向变化的波浪辐射应力引入至COHERENS-SED,通过该模型进行波浪辐射应力影响下的海流场演变数值研究。研究结果显示波浪辐射应力的存在显著改变了水深小于5m的流场。垂向变化的辐射应力则使得其表层波生沿岸流速大于传统的垂向均匀辐射应力引起的波生沿岸流速,底层则刚好相反。当波浪强度很大时,流场中的波生沿岸流对水深较浅的海岸区海流场影响较大。     

近岸区波浪场数值模拟的研究与进展

地国内外近年来近岸波浪场数值模拟的几个主要计算模式的研究和进展概况进行了较为系统的阐述,首先对工程实际中经常使用的线性模型和非线性模型的发展,包括其范围、求解途径等方面进行了评述;然后,在论述波浪共存时波、流场耦合计算的基础上,重点总结了在近岸区存在流场时的模拟方法,最后指出了几个可能的可能趋势。     

基于InterDyMFoam的潜礁孤立波传播数值模拟

建立了基于OpenFOAM动边界的类fixedValuePointPatchVectorField继承的仿物理造波数值波浪水槽。对孤立波在三种不同潜礁地形上的行进、爬坡以及破碎等典型过程进行数值模拟,模拟结果与Boussinesq模型及物理模型试验所得结果进行了对比分析。结果表明,采用动边界进行仿物理造波更适合处理波高水深比较大的孤立波传播问题,可以较好地模拟孤立波在潜礁上传播引起的波浪破碎、水跃等现象。     

Microbial Biomass and Organic Nutrients in the Deep-Sea Sediments of the Central Indian Ocean Basin

In order to assess the impact of deep-sea mining on the in situ benthic life, we measured the microbial standing stock and concentration of organic nutrients in the deep-sea sediments of the Central Indian Ocean Basin in the Indian pioneer area. Sediments were collected using box core and grab samples during September 1996. The total bacterial numbers ranged from 10 10 -10 11 cells per g -1 dry weight sediment. There was a marginal decrease in the number of bacteria from surface to 30 cm depth, though the subsurface section registered a higher number than did the surface. The highest numbers were encountered at depths of 4-8 cm. The retrievable number of bacteria were two orders less in comparison with the direct total counts of bacteria. An almost homogeneous distribution of bacteria, total organic carbon, living biomass, and lipids throughout the depth of cores indicates active microbial and benthic processes in the deep sea sediments. On the other hand, a uniform distribution of total counts of bacteria, carbohydrates, and total organic carbon in all the cores indicates their stable nature and suggests that they can serve as useful parameters for long-term monitoring of the area after the benthic disturbance. Further studies on temporal variability in this region would not only verify the observed norms of distribution of these variables but would also help to understand restabilization processes after the simulated benthic disturbance.     

海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中桩周土强度弱化研究

海上大直径钢管桩打桩过程中,桩周土体受到强烈扰动而发生强度弱化,掌握桩周土体强度弱化规律对于准确预测打桩过程、保证工程安全具有重要意义。为研究土体强度弱化规律,开展了环剪试验模拟打桩对桩周土体的扰动,测试土体强度随剪切速率的变化规律,建立了描述土体强度弱化规律的拟合公式,引入到打桩分析软件中。研究结果表明：土体的强度折减程度不仅与土体本身的性质有关还受到土体的埋深和剪切速率的影响,埋深越深土体强度折减程度越低,剪切速率越高土体强度折减越高,在打桩分析中可采用这里推荐的线性折减方法来模拟不同深度处土体强度的折减规律。     

Geoacoustic Inversion via Genetic Algorithm and Its Application to Manganese Sediment Identification

An acoustic inversion method using a wide-band signal and two near field receivers is proposed and applied to multiple layered seabed models including a manganese sediment. The inversion problem can be formulated into a probabilistic model comprised of signals, a forward model, and additive noise. The forward model simulates wide-band signals, such as chirp signals, and is chosen to be the source-waveletconvolution plane wave modeling method. The wavelet matching technique, using weighted least-squares fitting, estimates the sediment sound-speed and thickness on which determination of the possible numerical ranges for a priori uniform distribution is based. The genetic algorithm is applied to a global optimization problem to find a maximum a posteriori solution for determined a priori search space. Here the object function is defined by an L 2 norm of the difference between measured and modeled signals. Not only the marginal pdf but also its statistics are calculated by numerical evaluation of integrals using the samples selected during importance sampling process of the genetic algorithm.     

A Review of Some Environmental Issues Affecting Marine Mining

This article reviews information recently available from existing marine and coastal mining for responses to environmental issues affecting marine mining at different depths. It is particularly but not exclusively concerned with those issues affecting seabed biodiversity impact and recovery. Much information has been gathered in the past 10 years from shallow mining operations for construction aggregate, diamonds, and gold, from coastal mines discharging tailings to shallow and deep water, and from experimental deep mining tests. The responses to issues identified are summarized in a series of eight tables intended to facilitate site-specific consideration. Since impacts can spread widely in the surface mixing layer SML, and can affect the biologically productive euphotic zone, the main issues considered arise from the depth of mining relative to the SML of the sea. Where mining is below the SML, the issue is whether it is environmentally better to bring the extraction products to the surface vessel for processing (and waste discharge), or to process the extraction products as much as possible on the seabed. Responses to the issues need to be sitespecific, and dependent on adequate preoperational environmental impact and recovery prediction. For deep tailings disposal from a surface vessel, there are four important environmental unknowns: (1) the possible growth of "marine snow" (bacterial flocs) utilizing the enormous quantities of fine tailings particles (hundreds or thousands of metric tons per day) as nuclei for growth, (2) the possibility that local keystone plankton and nekton species may migrate diurnally down to and beyond the depth of deep discharge and hence be subjected to tailings impact at depth, (3) the burrow-up capability of deep benthos and their ability to survive high rates of tailings deposition, and (4) the pattern and rate of dispersion of a tailings density current through the deep water column from discharge point to seabed. Actions to obtain relevant information in general and site-specifically are suggested.     

Increased Particle Fluxes at the INDEX Site Attributable to Simulated Benthic Disturbance

Particle fluxes were measured 7 m above the sea bottom during the predisturbance, disturbance, and postdisturbance periods by using time series sediment traps attached to seven deep-sea moorings deployed in the INDEX experiment site in the Central Indian Basin. The predisturbance particle fluxes varied between 22.3 to 55.1 mg m -2 day -1 . Increased and variable particle fluxes were recorded by the sediment traps during the disturbance period. The increase observed was 0.5 to 4 times more than the background predisturbance fluxes. The increases in particle fluxes (~4 times) recorded by the sediment trap located in the southwestern direction (DMS-1) were the greatest, which could be the result of preferential movement of resuspended particles generated during the deep-sea benthic disturbance along the general current direction prevailing in this area during the experimental period. Also, the traps located closer to the disturbance area recorded greater fluxes than did the traps far away, across the Deep Sea Sediment Resuspension System path. This variability in recorded particle fluxes by the traps around the disturbance area clearly indicates that physical characteristics such as grain size and density of the resuspended particles produced during the disturbance had an important effect on particle movement. The postdisturbance measurements during ~5 days showed a reduction in particle fluxes of ~50%, indicating rapid particle settlement.     

Determination of In Situ Sediment Shear Strength from Advanced Piston Corer Pullout Forces

The advanced piston corer (APC) has been used by the Ocean Drilling Program since 1985 for recovering soft sediments from the ocean floor. The pullout force measured on extracting the core barrel from the sediment is shown to correlate with the average shear strength of the sediment core measured in the ship's laboratory. A simple rule of thumb is derived relating the shear strength of the sediment to the pullout force. Multiple APC holes at individual sites allow the consistency of the pullout measurements to be assessed. The effects of different operational procedures during APC coring are also explored. Although generally applicable, the correlation between pullout force and laboratory measurements of shear strength breaks down for some APC holes, possibly because of the disturbance of some sediment types during the APC coring process. A better understanding of the physical process of APC coring, and its effect on the properties of the sediment both inside and immediately outside the core barrel, would indicate what confidence can be put on the measurement of pullout force as a way of evaluating the in situ shear strength of deep sea sediments.     

Phylogenetic diversity and phenotypic characterization of cultivable bacterioplankton isolated from polar oceans

A set of 27 marine planktonic bacteria isolated from the polar regions was characterized by 16S rDNA sequencing and physiological and biochemical testing. More than half of these bacteria were positive for caseinase, gelatinase and 13-glucosidase, and could utilize glucose, maltose or malic acid as carbon source for cell growth. Twelve isolates expressed nitrate reduction activities. Except for one antarctic isolate BSwlO175 belonging to Actinobacteria phylum, these isolates were classified as γ-Proteobacteria, suggesting that γ-Proteobacteria dominated in cultivable marine bacterioplankton at both poles. Genus Pseudoalteromonas was the predominant group in the Chukchi Sea and the Bering Sea, and genus ShewaneUa dominated in cultivable bacterioplankton in the Prydz Bay. With sequence similarities above 97%, genus Psychrobacter was found at both poles. These 27 isolates were psychrotolerant, and significant 16S rDNA sequence similarities were found not only between arctic and antarctic marine bacteria （ 〉 99% ）, but also between polar marine bacteria and bacteria from other aquatic environments （ ≥ 98.8% ）, including temperate ocean, deep sea, pond and lake, suggesting that in the polar oceans less temperature-sensitive bacteria may be cosmopolitan and have a bipolar, even global, distribution at the species level.     

Deep-Sea Sediment Compression Curves: Some Controlling Factors, Spurious Overconsolidation, Predictions, and Geophysical Reproduction

Oedometer tests have been carried out on 70 undisturbed surficial clays (at approximately 250 mm below the mudline), mostly collected by free-fall corers from sites widely scattered throughout the deep-sea North Atlantic. Acoustic measurements were also made, initially on contiguous samples and ultimately on the same sample using a geophysically instrumented oedometer which also collected electrical resistivity data. Apart from those quiescent areas below the carbonate compensation depth, such as north of the West Indies where very fine clays exist, most of the samples are silty clays whose geotechnical-geophysical properties are dependent on the type of clay minerals present (and their ability to take in moisture), the sand-size fraction, and the quantity of carbonate present. Thus the pure clays have high compressibilities which decrease on the addition of coarse particles, while the converse is true for the acoustic parameters, these increasing with the sand fraction. Using the notion of the intrinsic compression line for all samples, and comparison to it of the measured compression curves, it is clear that, contrary to some previously held ideas, most deep-sea clays are normally consolidated; the addition of carbonate has the effect of creating an open, stronger sediment skeleton. Interestingly, where information is available, the variation with depth of a sample's acoustic velocity follows the void ratio pressure relationship of the compression curve. This allows the construction of an in-situ sediment compression curve using the in-situ geophysical observations.