潮流场对渤、黄、东海陆架底质分布的控制作用

运用二维潮流数学模型，模拟了渤、黄、东海陆架的M2潮汐、潮流。结果表明，渤、黄、东海陆架的潮流有强弱之分以及往复流和旋转汉之别。在此基础上，计算了8种粒径沙的湖平均悬移输沙率、潮平均推移输沙以及相应的输沙率散度。根据输沙率散度的正负，划分了海底冲刷区与淤积区。根据不同粒径泥沙输沙率散度的相对大小，确定出海底的主要底质类型为砂质沉积、粉砂质泥沉积和以粉砂为主的混合沉积。计算结果表明，海底3种主要底负类型的分布格局与海底的冲淤格局以及与输沙率矢量的发散和聚合状况基本一致。在渤、黄、东海陆架，沙脊主要在强往复流区形成，沙席主要在强或较强的旋转流区形成，泥质沉积主要在弱潮流区形成。砂质沉积、泥质沉积以及混合沉积这3种主要底质类型并非孤立存在，而是受渤、黄、东海陆架潮流场控制而形成的一个完整的潮流沉积体系。渤、黄、东海陆架的砂质沉积与泥质沉积并非残留沉积，而是潮流沉积。在没有冷涡的情况下，黄、东海陆架的典型泥质沉积在弱潮流环境中同样可以形成，因此，认为冷涡并非黄、东海陆架典型泥质沉积形成的必要条件。     

Shoreline accretion and sand transport at groynes inside the Port of Richards Bay

The south-western shoreline along the entrance channel inside the Port of Richards Bay has experienced continued erosion. Four groynes were constructed to stabilise the shoreline. Monitoring of shoreline evolution provided valuable data on the accretion adjacent to two of the groynes and on the sediment transport rates at these groynes. Tides, beach slopes, winds, wave climate, current regime, and sand grain sizes were documented. The one site is “moderately protected” from wave action while the other is “protected” according to the Wiegel [Wiegel, R. L. (1964). Oceanographical engineering. Prentice Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ.] classification. The shoreline accreted progressively at the two groynes at 0.065 m/day and 0.021 m/day respectively. The shorelines accreted right up to the most seaward extremity of the groynes. Equilibrium shorelines were reached within about 3.5 years to 4 years, which compare well with other sites around the world. The mean wave incidence angle is large and was found to be about 22°. The median sand grain sizes were 0.33 mm and 0.37 mm. The groynes acted as total traps, the beach surveys were extended to an adequate depth, and cross-shore sediment transport did not cause appreciable net sand losses into the entrance channel. The net longshore transport rate along the study area, which is north-westbound, is only slightly lower than the gross longshore transport. The actual net longshore transport rates are 18 000 m³/year and 4 600 m³/year respectively at the two groynes. A rocky area limits the availability of sand at one groyne. There is fair agreement between the predicted and measured longshore transport rates at the other groyne.     

Alongshore Sediment Transport Near Tidal Inlets of Chilika Lagoon; East Coast of India

ABSTRACT

Chilika, a lagoon along the east coast of India, is undergoing transformation due to frequent shoreline change near inlet(s). Shoreline change near inlet includes change in position and shape of inlet, inlet channel length, and spit growth/erosion. These variable features of lagoon inlet(s) critically depend on alongshore sediment transport (LST) and discharge (water and sediment) from the lagoon to the sea. The LST and the processes responsible for sand spit growth/erosion, considered as important attributes of inlet stability, are the subject matter of the present investigation and hence the study assumes importance. The study includes integration of observational and modeling framework. Observations include nearshore wave, bathymetry, beach profile, shoreline and sediment grain size of spits while numerical modeling includes simulation of the wave using MIKE 21 Spectral Wave model and LST simulation using LITtoral DRIFT. The results indicate that the predominant wave directions as S and SSE, which induces round the year south to north alongshore transport with significant seasonal variation in magnitude. The estimated LST closely matches with previous studies near Chilika inlet and for other locations along the Odisha coast. Besides temporal variability, the study reveals spatial variability in alongshore transport near Chilika inlet and considers it as one of the important attributes along with northward spit growth for inlet migration/closure/opening.     

Marine Sand Resources Offshore Israel

The continental margin of northern Sinai and Israel, up to Haifa Bay, is the northeastern limb of the submarine Nile Delta Cone. It is made up predominantly of clastics from the Nile and its predecessors. The continental shelf and coastal plain of Israel are built of a series of shore-parallel ridges composed of carbonate-cemented quartz sandstone (locally named kurkar), a lithification product of windblown sands that were piled up into dunes during the Pleistocene. The drop in global sea level and regression during the last glacial period exposed the continental shelf to subaerial erosion and created a widespread regional erosional unconformity which is expressed as a prominent seismic reflector at the top of the kurkar layers. The subsequent Holocene transgression abraded much of the westernmost kurkar ridges, drowned their cores, and covered the previous lowstand deposits with marine sands, which were in turn covered by a sequence of sub-Recent clayey silts. The Mediterranean coasts of Sinai and Israel are part of the Nile littoral cell. Since the building of the Aswan dams the sand supplied to Israel's coastal system is derived mainly from erosion of the Nile Delta and from sands offshore Egypt that are stirred up by storm waves. The sands are transported by longshore and offshore currents along the coasts of northern Sinai and Israel. Their volume gradually declines northward with distance from their Nile source. The longshore transport terminates in Haifa Bay where some sand is trapped, and the test escapes to deeper water by bottom currents and through submarine canyons, thus denying Nile-derived sand supply to the 40-km-long 'Akko-Rosh Haniqra shelf. The sand balance along Israel's coastal zone is a product of natural processes and human intervention. Losses due to the outgoing longshore transport, seaward escape, and landward wind transport exceed the natural gains from the incoming longshore transport and the abrasion of the coastal cliffs. The deficit is aggravated by the construction of (1) seaward-projecting structures that trap sands on the upstream side and (2) offshore detached breakwaters that trap sands between themselves and the coast. The negative sand balance is manifested by the removal of sand from the seabed and the consequent exposure of archaeological remains that were hitherto protected by it. The sediments that escape seaward from the longshore transport system form a 2.5- to 4-km-wide sandy apron adjacent to the shore that extends to where the water is 30 - 40 m deep. The apron's slope (0.5 - 0.8) is steeper than the theoretical equilibrium slope for the median grain-size diameter in this zone (0.1 - 0.3 mm). The beach sands and the apron's surficial sands are well sorted. Their grain size decreases with distance from shore, from 0.2 - 0.3 mm nearshore to 0.11 - 0.16 mm by the drowned ridge. The coarse-grained fraction consists of skeletal debris (commonly 5 - 12% carbonate matter) and wave-milled kurkar grains (locally named zifzif). In deeper water, the basal sands underlying the fine-grained sediment cover consist of 1- to 30-cm layers whose composition ranges from silty sands to various types of sands (fine, medium, coarse, and gravelly) to zifzif. For the most part, they contain large amounts of skeletal debris (20 - 60%) and small fragments of kurkar. Two types of kurkar rock were encountered offshore: a well-sorted, fine- to medium-grained (0.074 - 0.300 mm) lithified dune sand with variable amounts of carbonate cement, ranging from hard rock of low permeability to loose sand; and a porous sandstone made up predominantly of algal grains and skeletal debris (calcarenite).     

渤海海峡沉积物输运的数值模拟

根据渤海海峡空间尺度的大小、潮流特征和沉积物的性质特征 ,构造了一个平面二维沉积物输运数值模型。模拟结果显示 ,在研究区内 ,成山头附近的海底沉积物净输运向东南和东北 ,渤海海峡西部的沉积物向西北输运 ,北部大连沿岸的沉积物顺着辽东半岛向西南方向输运 ,然后绕过辽东半岛的南端向北输运。在渤海海峡中部偏东 ,沉积物的净输运趋势形成一个反时针方向的旋涡 ,愈往中心沉积物的净输运率值愈小。海底冲淤趋势的计算结果与观测的结果相符 ,且中部泥区和山东半岛北部近岸泥区正好对应于海底淤积区 ,辽东半岛南岸的狭长泥带对应于淤积条带 ,泥质区的边缘为冲刷区。     

Sediment Transport along the Southeast Mediterranean: A geological perspective

Sediment is being transported from the Nile Delta to the Israeli coast by a wave-induced longshore current carrying mainly sand, and by the geostrophic Mediterranean Current, detected in Earth Resources and Technology Satellite (ERTS) photographs through the presence of suspended sediments. The location of these suspended sediments is consistent with computations of the maximum depth of wave stirring on the shelf. Since the construction of the Aswan Dam in 1965, sand has been more than adequately supplied by the severe erosion of the Nile Delta beaches. No changes in the longshore transport of sediment along the Israeli coast are anticipated from the Aswan Dam for a few hundred years.In memory of O. H. Oren, a pioneer in the study of the Nile flood along the Israeli coast.     

Shoreline change detection using DSAS technique: Case of North Sinai coast,Egypt

This study focuses on the shoreline change detection along the North Sinai coast in Egypt using geographic information system and digital shoreline analysis system (DSAS) during the elapsed period from 1989 to 2016. The measurement of shoreline variation is mainly described for three zones: zone I, El-Tinah plain bay; zone II, El-Bardawil Lake; zone III, El-Arish valley. The rates of shoreline changes in the form of erosion and accretion patterns are automatically quantified by four statistical parameters functioned in DSAS namely endpoint rate, net shoreline movement, linear regression rate (LRR), and least median of squares. LRR results elucidate that the western seaside of El-Tinah plain bay has experienced an extremely dynamic feature with an average erosion rate of ?8.17?m/year. The littoral drifts have been driven by eastward alongshore currents toward the east side of the bay to be accreted with an average rate of +4.28?m/year. Moreover, the shoreline has progressed west of El-Bardawil inlet (1), El-Bardawil inlet (2), and El-Arish harbor. Subsequently, the corresponding average beach growth rates are found to be +2.7, +8.5, and +6.5?m/year, respectively. In contrast, the shoreline on the down-drift side to the east has negatively retreated, and the corresponding beaches have regressed at rates of ?4.5, ?8.65, and ?2.9?m/year, respectively.     

Marine Sand Resources Offshore Israel

Abstract

The continental margin of northern Sinai and Israel, up to Haifa Bay, is the northeastern limb of the submarine Nile Delta Cone. It is made up predominantly of clastics from the Nile and its predecessors. The continental shelf and coastal plain of Israel are built of a series of shore-parallel ridges composed of carbonate-cemented quartz sandstone (locally named kurkar), a lithification product of windblown sands that were piled up into dunes during the Pleistocene. The drop in global sea level and regression during the last glacial period exposed the continental shelf to subaerial erosion and created a widespread regional erosional unconformity which is expressed as a prominent seismic reflector at the top of the kurkar layers. The subsequent Holocene transgression abraded much of the westernmost kurkar ridges, drowned their cores, and covered the previous lowstand deposits with marine sands, which were in turn covered by a sequence of sub-Recent clayey silts.

The Mediterranean coasts of Sinai and Israel are part of the Nile littoral cell. Since the building of the Aswan dams the sand supplied to Israel's coastal system is derived mainly from erosion of the Nile Delta and from sands offshore Egypt that are stirred up by storm waves. The sands are transported by longshore and offshore currents along the coasts of northern Sinai and Israel. Their volume gradually declines northward with distance from their Nile source. The longshore transport terminates in Haifa Bay where some sand is trapped, and the test escapes to deeper water by bottom currents and through submarine canyons, thus denying Nile-derived sand supply to the 40-km-long Akko-Rosh Haniqra shelf.

The sand balance along Israel's coastal zone is a product of natural processes and human intervention. Losses due to the outgoing longshore transport, seaward escape, and landward wind transport exceed the natural gains from the incoming longshore transport and the abrasion of the coastal cliffs. The deficit is aggravated by the construction of (1) seaward-projecting structures that trap sands on the upstream side and (2) offshore detached breakwaters that trap sands between themselves and the coast. The negative sand balance is manifested by the removal of sand from the seabed and the consequent exposure of archaeological remains that were hitherto protected by it.

The sediments that escape seaward from the longshore transport system form a 2.5- to 4-km-wide sandy apron adjacent to the shore that extends to where the water is 30–40 m deep. The apron's slope (0.5–0.8°) is steeper than the theoretical equilibrium slope for the median grain-size diameter in this zone (0.1–0.3 mm).

The beach sands and the apron's surficial sands are well sorted. Their grain size decreases with distance from shore, from 0.2–0.3 mm nearshore to 0.11–0.16 mm by the drowned ridge. The coarse-grained fraction consists of skeletal debris (commonly 5–12% carbonate matter) and wave-milled kurkar grains (locally named zifzif). In deeper water, the basal sands underlying the fine-grained sediment cover consist of 1- to 30-cm layers whose composition ranges from silty sands to various types of sands (fine, medium, coarse, and gravelly) to zifzif. For the most part, they contain large amounts of skeletal debris (20–60%) and small fragments of kurkar.

Two types of kurkar rock were encountered offshore: a well-sorted, fine- to medium-grained (0.074–0.300 mm) lithified dune sand with variable amounts of carbonate cement, ranging from hard rock of low permeability to loose sand; and a porous sandstone made up predominantly of algal grains and skeletal debris (calcarenite).     

杭州湾北岸潮滩沉积物粒度的时间变化及其沉积动力学意义

2002年5月-2003年4月对杭州湾北岸中潮滩一个固定观测点表层沉积物进行逐日取样,采用库尔特LS100Q型激光粒度仪进行粒度分析,探讨潮滩沉积物粒度随时间的演变。结果表明,潮滩粒度特征在时间上有明显的变化,1～6月潮滩堆积期间沉积物粒度较细,7-12月潮滩侵蚀期间沉积物较粗,其中1月和7月为潮滩冲淤转换期间沉积物粒度显示双峰分布;沉积物午平均粒度亦显示双峰分布,细颗粒部分主要是由于悬沙落淤形成,而粗颗粒部分主要是由于潮滩下部粉、细砂物质向上推移形成。通过潮滩沉积动力学的探讨阐明了潮滩沉积物粒度演变的原因和特点。     

珊瑚礁海岸侵蚀的研究方法

珊瑚礁海岸海滩和礁坪是海岸作用是活跃的部分，也是近几十年来与海岸发育，海岸侵蚀联系最密切的部分，这一部分高潮时被淹没，低潮时完全出露或大部分出露，使得在此进行地质填图成为可能，这样的地质图可以提供许多信息，如沉积物粒度分布规律，沉积物来源和搬运方向，海滩岩所指示的古海岸线位置，人类活动特别是海岸工程对沉积物分布的影响以及海岸线的变化过程和趋势，在礁坪上开挖的人工水道内测流，能够了解水流的性质以及是否有足够的速度搬运沉积物，从而了解人工水道对海岸的影响和预测海岸的状态，这些方法也可以用于大陆泥质和砂质第岸侵蚀的研究。     

北黄海西部海底沉积物的粒度特征和净输运趋势

根据对北黄西部海底沉积物的粒度测试,运用“粒度趋势分析”方法,分析探讨了北黄海西部（渤海海峡区）海底表层底质的粒度分布特征和净输运趋势,结果表明,本区的细颗粒沉积物主要位于北黄海中部和山东半岛沿岸,大连湾附近,粗颗粒沉积物则主要分布于庙岛群岛以东和大连湾东南侧海区,沉积物的平均粒径、分选系数、偏态系数闰度参数的分布特征有一定的对应性,除庙岛群东侧的砂质沉积,分选较好之外,其它海区的沉积物总体特征是,粒径越粗,分选越差,偏态更正偏;而粒径越细,分选越好,偏态系数也较低。山 岛北侧的沉积物具有向东和向东北的输运趋势,西中沉积物的输运趋势向东南并转向东,北部喾物的输运趋势向南,形成了向北黄海中部汇聚的趋势,本碛研究还表明“粒度趋势分析”方法在大范围的陆架区域具有较好的适用性,在操作中,使用规则的正方形网格可以较全面判     

Modeling beach profile evolution at centennial to millennial scales

The proposed model allows the satisfactory reproduction of the changes in the profile geometry in each time step depending on the sediment budgets in a given morphodynamic system. The applied modification to the general Bruun rule governing the conservation of mass must account for the effect of the sediment transport, which is described in terms of the erosion and accretion rates (Er and and Ac, respectively). The scale of the erosion is a function of the total annual wave energy flux reaching the beach. The accretion is governed by the Er, on the one hand, and by the sediment budget in the morphodynamic system, on the other hand. The equilibrium profile obtained for the case of a balanced sediment budget (Er = Ac) shows good agreement with the observed profiles. A deficit or surplus in the sediment budget results in the shoreline??s retreat or advance accompanied by either a decrease or increase in the slope of the bottom profile. The model accounts for different types of shoreline responses to changes in the sea level (the Bruun rule, the development of a coastal barrier, and abrasion). Sediment budget imbalances can be a factor in the profile??s evolution due to changes in the sea level, while the combination of both factors will produce a variety of behaviors of the shoreline, as was shown by our calculations. The model was verified using historical data on the behavior of the Central Holland coast and the Abkhazian coast during the Late Holocene. It was shown that the model satisfactory reproduces the progradation of coastal barriers. An example of a relatively short-term forecast (over a 100-year period) is given.     

On the genesis of some bottom and coastal features in the Eastern Gulf of Finland

An investigation undertaken recently by the Division of Regional Geoecology and Marine Geology of the Karpinsky All-Russian Research Geological Institute in the coastal zones of the Eastern Gulf of Finland allowed finding some specific relief forms of both near-shore bottom topography and shoreline shape. First of all, among the most interesting objects, the sand ridges on the surface of submarine terrace (between Repino locality and Cape Lautaranta) should be mentioned. These ridges are elongated at an angle to the shoreline and are located beyond the limits of wave action. The other interesting morphological type is represented by longshore sand waves up to some hundreds of meters long and some tens of meters wide near the Bol’shaya Izhora locality. Longshore sand waves move along the southern coast of the gulf, this causing alteration of erosion and accretion zones and leading to formation and degradation of the sand spits. Shore-face-connected ridges are believed to develop under the action of drift currents generated during the passage of deep west cyclones. It is shown that the ridge turned toward the current gives rise to a convergence of the cross-shore flows over the crest and provokes a shift of the maximum velocity toward the front side of the structure. Associated changes in sediment discharges result in accumulation and growth of the ridge. The origin of wavelike features in the shoreline contour (longshore sand waves) is due to a very oblique wave approach caused by predominance of the west winds blowing along the axis of the gulf. Under these conditions a small perturbation of the shoreline contour is shown to manifest a trend to increase with time.     

Sediment trapping and bypassing characteristics of a stable tidal inlet at Kaohsiung Harbor, Taiwan

Around the artificially stabilized tidal inlet that connects Kaohsiung Harbor to Taiwan Straight, 203 surficial samples of the sea floor were taken from the nearshore, in the outer harbor, and portions of the inner harbor. The bathymetry of the same area was also surveyed. The sand fraction in each sample was analyzed for the grain-size composition with a custom-built rapid sediment analyzer. A total of twenty-one size-classes were used in the analysis. Three hypothetical sediment sources were assumed to have influenced the spatial grain-size patterns in the study area: the northward and southward littoral drifts, and the sediments exported from the harbor. After reducing the influence of each hypothetical sediment source separately, the data were analyzed using empirical orthogonal (eigen) function (EOF) analysis. The results indicate that the northward long-term littoral drift is the dominant direction of sediment transport in the nearshore of the study area. A conceptual model for four different sediment trapping and bypassing patterns are proposed. (1) Excess bypass (or net outflux): this bypass pattern is characterized by the export of fine-grained sediments (mud and size classes in the very fine sand fraction) from the interior of the harbor. (2) Partial bypass (or partial trapping): this bypass pattern is represented by the size-classes in fine sand fraction. The amount of these grain sizes entering the outer harbor through the inlet is more than the amount exiting at the inlet mouth, resulting in the retention of a portion of these grain sizes. (3) Total bypass (or zero trapping): grain sizes that exhibit this bypass pattern do not come near the mouth of the inlet. These grain sizes include medium and coarse sand fractions. (4) Lag deposits: this group includes the size classes in the very coarse sand fraction, which are largely concentrated in the scour pit immediately seaward of the inlet mouth. In general, surficial sediment grain-size patterns represent a time-averaged response of the substrate to the transport processes over the time scale of at least two seasons. The differential associations of grain-size groups with various topographic features in the study area suggest morpho-textural relationships exist between the sea floor topography and grain size distribution patterns.     

Sediment characteristics and water circulation of Big Jemsa Bay,Red Sea,Egypt

Big Jemsa Bay is one of the indentations dissecting the continuity of the Red Sea north-western shoreline. The data was collected from bathymetric survey, current meters and sediment samples. Analyses have been undertaken of coastal processes, seabed morphology, grain size characteristics and the effect of current circulation on the distribution of sediment characteristics. The sediment pattern varies from coarse sand in the southern part to silt and fine sand in the northern part. The central part of the study area is mainly composed of terrigenous isometric-medium sand facies. The sorting distribution of sediments varies from moderately well sorted to poorly sort. The significant factors that control the sediment transport process are downslope gravity and wave-induced currents that are affected by the seafloor configuration and the shoreline orientation. According to the circulation effect on the sediment transport of the study area where deposition of fine sand and silt was observed in the northern part. Because sediment transport mitigates the occurrence of pollutant deposition in this part of the bay, we recommend that future constructions along the bay should be in the southern part.     

Long-term variation of longshore sediment transport

For planning and designing a new harbour located on the sand coast of Nouakchott, Mauretania, the Bijker formula was adopted to compute the longshore sediment transport. The shoreline is nearly straight at this site. The beach is composed of fine sand with a median grain diameter of D₅₀ = 200 μm. The beach slope is about 1:20. Wave observation data from 1976 to 1982 were used for the formula. Computed results show a clear variation of annual transport. The ratio maximum:mean value is 1.31, and the ratio maximum: minimum is 1.89 in seven years.Probability analysis indicates that the long-term variation of the longshore transport follows the Gumbel distribution. Accordingly, the formulae which can predict the probable and most disadvantageous total sediment transport values for multiple years blocked by a littoral barrier are derived.     

Sediment transport along an artificial shoreline: “The Strand”, Townsville,NE-Queensland,Australia

Construction measures to stabilise or spatially extend coastlines have become a routine measure in urbanised coastal zones. This study quantifies beach profile changes and sediment transport along an artificial beach in Townsville, NE-Queensland. The “Strand” was transformed from a single degraded shoreline into a shoreline with five embayments (or “pocket beaches”) split by four artificial rocky headlands in 1998. The modified shoreline has had an impact on the local and regional northward long-shore sediment pathway, creating local shifts in sand. Sediment deposition and erosion occur at the same time at different parts of the pocket beaches. Collected offshore sediments show that little artificial sand is transported more than a few meters seaward in the south-eastern part of the Strand, while substantial and long-ranging export, i.e., tens to hundreds of meters, occurs in the north-western area. This is mainly the result of the breakwaters south of the Strand, which impacts the predominant northward long-shore sediment transport induced by the dominant south-easterly winds.     

厦门吴冠海岸潮间带沉积物粒度特征及其沉积动力学涵义

潮滩沉积物的粒度参数可以用来反映沉积物沉积的水动力、沉积物来源和沉积物搬运趋势等环境信息。对厦门吴冠潮间带35个表层样的粒度资料进行分析的结果表明,研究区沉积物类型以黏土质粉砂和粉砂质砂为主;沉积物主要来源于海岸侵蚀物质的输入,随着沉积物向海方向搬运,沉积物粒度参数表现出有规律的变化趋势,即由岸向海粒径具有细化趋势,分选程度变好。与开敞海岸淤泥质潮滩粒度特征相比,研究区的粒度参数组合特征具有明显差异,这可能是由于水动力条件的差异引起的。     

冰后期最大海侵以来长江,钱塘江河口湾发育过程的沉积动力学研究

利用二进流数学模型对冰后期最大海侵以来５期古岸线与现在岸线条件下古长江河口湾、古钱塘江河口湾及其邻近海域的主要水动力Ｍ２潮流场进行了数值模拟;在此基础上,分别计算了进入不同时期潮流场的７种粒径泥沙的潮平均单宽悬移输沙率与扒移输沙率及其相应的输沙率散度,据此得出不同粒径泥沙在当时潮流场中的悬移与推移输过趋势,划分了海 淤积区与冲刷区 同时期的潮流场作用下,长江入海泥沙除最大限度地沉积在古长江河口湾（     

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