Experimental Study of Overtopping on Sea Dikes and Coastal Flooding Under the Coupled Processes of Tides and Waves

Storm surges are cataclysmic natural disasters that occur along the coasts and are usually accompanied by large waves. The effects of coupled storm surges and waves can pose a significant threat to coastal security. Previous laboratory studies on the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal structures have typically utilized steady water levels and constant wave elements. An indoor simulation of the coupled processes of tides and waves is developed by adding a tide generation system to an existing laboratory wave basin to model continuous dynamic tide levels so that tide generation and wave-making occur synchronously in the pool. Specific experimental methods are given, which are applied to further study waves overtopping on artificial sea dikes and coastal flooding evolution under the coupled actions of tides and waves. The results of the overtopping discharge obtained by the test with a dynamic water level are compared with those obtained from steady water level tests and the existing empirical formula. In addition, the impacts of ecological coastal shelterbelts and structures on coastal flood processes and distributions are also investigated. The proposed simulation methods provide a new approach for studying the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal areas. The study also aims to provide a reference for coastal protective engineering.

     

Wave-in-deck loads on coastal bridges and the role of air

Recent failures of coastal bridges during extreme storm events have focused attention on the need for research on wave loading of coastal structures suspended above the still water level. This paper presents findings from large-scale experimental work carried out in the wave basin of the Yokohama Port and Airport Technical Investigation Office. Measurements from physical model tests are used to gain insights on the dynamics of wave-loading of coastal bridges and to derive an “ad-hoc” prediction method for both quasi-static and impulsive wave loads. The effect of openings in the bridge deck is also discussed, and guidance derived for design purpose.     

Developing a building policy for the erosion zone: Solutions to some key (Dutch) questions

In those coastal communities where the most seaward strip of mainland consists of dunes, these dunes often serve as a flexible sea defence. In addition, this strip offers large potential for housing and commercial enterprises. Unfortunately, due to severe storm surges part of this strip (the erosion zone) is subject to erosion, and as a result of which any buildings or infrastructure located here, are destroyed. Therefore, as we will illustrate in this paper, a building policy for this zone should reflect a compromise between two opposite interests: exploitation of the existing potential and, prevention of an unacceptable high risk due to erosion. Accordingly, the authors have developed a framework for such a building policy on the basis of which the desirability of various different types of investments and the location within the erosion zone of such investments can be determined. The examples that are used to illustrate this framework in this paper are limited to experiences in The Netherlands as relevant data and experiences are available and relatively easy accessible here. Nevertheless, the approach as is described is generic and applicable worldwide suggesting that the discovered unused potential for exploitation is not just limited to The Netherlands.     

莱州湾东部潮上带土地利用对海岸蚀退的影响

基于二维浅水方程、波作用守恒方程和对流扩散方程, 建立了波浪-潮流-泥沙耦合数值模型, 分析了最近20 年来莱州湾东部潮上带土地利用对海岸蚀退的影响。结果显示, 潮上带土地利用改变 了风暴潮时的水动力边界条件, 显著增大了岸线附近的水流流速。随着潮上带养殖设施覆盖比例的 提高, 从平面分布看, 岸线附近侵蚀显著加重, 侵蚀条带平行岸线并向下游延伸、向海侧拓展; 从剖 面分布看, 岸线两侧侵蚀深度显著增大、范围明显扩展, 水下岸坡的闭合水深加大, 闭合点外移; 从 动力条件变化看, 岸线附近水流流速最大。分析表明, 最近20 年来大规模的潮上带土地利用是莱州 湾东部海岸蚀退的重要影响因素。     

Effects of winds,tides and storm surges on ocean surface waves in the Sea of Japan

Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyō, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions.     

The potential of wetlands in reducing storm surge

A critical component of flood protection in some coastal areas is expected to be the potential contribution of wetlands to the lowering of surges as they propagate inland from the coast. Consequently, an accurate method to quantify the effect of wetlands on coastal surge levels is required. The degree to which wetlands attenuate surge is the subject of debate and difficult to assess. The potential of wetlands to reduce storm surge has typically been expressed as a constant attenuation rate, but the relationship is much more complex. A numerical storm surge model was applied to assess the sensitivity of surge response to specified wetland loss. Results suggest that wetlands do have the potential to reduce surges but the magnitude of attenuation is dependent on the surrounding coastal landscape and the strength and duration of the storm forcing. Numerical models that simulate the relevant physical processes can provide valuable information on how to best integrate wetlands into coastal protection plans. However, while the model applied for this study has displayed skill in estimating surges over wetlands, the formulations are missing key processes and model advancements are necessary.     

Storms and shoreline retreat in the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence

Storms play a major role in shoreline recession on transgressive coasts. In the southern Gulf of St. Lawrence (GSL), southeastern Canada, long-term relative sea-level rise off the North Shore of Prince Edward Island has averaged 0.3 m/century over the past 6000 years (>0.2 m/century over 2000 years). This has driven long-term coastal retreat at mean rates >0.5 m/a but the variance and details of coastal profile response remain poorly understood. Despite extensive sandy shores, sediment supply is limited and sand is transferred landward into multidecadal to century-scale storage in coastal dunes, barrier washover deposits, and flood-tidal delta sinks. Charlottetown tide-gauge records show mean relative sea-level rise of 3.2 mm/a (0.32 m/century) since 1911. A further rise of 0.7±0.4 m is projected over the next 100 years. When differenced from tidal predictions, the water-level data provide a 90-year record of storm-surge occurrence. Combined with wind, wave hindcast, and sea-ice data, this provides a catalogue of potentially significant coastal storms. We also document coastal impacts from three recent storms of great severity in January and October 2000 and November 2001. Digital photogrammetry (1935–1990) and shore-zone surveys (1989–2001) show large spatial and temporal variance in coastal recession rates, weakly correlated with the storm record, in part because of wave suppression or coastal protection by sea ice. Large storms cause rapid erosion from which recovery depends in part on local sand supply, but barrier volume may be conserved by washover deposition. Barrier shores with dunes show high longshore and interdecadal variance, with extensive multidecadal healing of former inlet and overwash gaps. This reflects recovery from an episode of widespread overwash prior to 1935, possibly initiated by intense storms or groups of storms in the latter half of the 19th century. With evidence from the storms of 2000–2001, this points to the importance of storm clustering on scales of weeks to years in determining erosion vulnerability, as well as the need for a long-term, large-scale perspective in assessing coastal stability. The expected acceleration in relative sea-level rise, together with projections of increasing storm intensity and greatly diminished winter ice cover in the southern GSL, implies a significant increase in coastal erosion hazards in future.     

基于海气耦合模型的渤海两种类型风暴潮数值模拟与对比分析

渤海一年四季都易受到由温带风暴和热带气旋所致风暴潮的影响。为了缓解风暴潮灾害对海岸地区人员生命财产的影响,十分有必要了解大型风暴潮的发生过程和机制。目前大部分研究主要局限于单一的温带风暴潮或台风风暴潮。本文利用所构建的海气耦合数值模型研究了发生于渤海的两种类型的风暴潮,对发生在渤海的2次典型强风暴潮过程进行了模拟。由WRF模型模拟得到的风场强度和最低海平面气压与实测数据吻合较好,由ROMS模型模拟得到的风暴潮期间水位变化过程与潮位站观测结果也吻合较好。对两种类型风暴潮期间的风场结钩、海面风应力、海洋表面平均流场以及水位分布进行了分析对比,并将耦合模型结果与非耦合模型结果进行了对比。研究表明,渤海两种类型风暴潮期间的风场结钩、海面风应力、海洋表面平均流场以及水位分布等均存在巨大差异。渤海风暴潮的强度主要由海洋表面的驱动力所决定,但同时也受海岸地形地貌的影响。     

Development and application of an operational tide and storm surge prediction model for the seas around Taiwan

Storm surges are abnormal rises in sea level along coastal areas and are mainly formed by strong wind and atmospheric depressions.When storm surges coincide with high tide,coastal flooding can occur.Creating storm surge prediction systems has been an important and operational task worldwide.This study developed a coupled tide and storm surge numerical model of the seas around Taiwan for operational purposes at the Central Weather Bureau.The model was calibrated and verified by using tidal records from seas around Taiwan.Model skill was assessed based on measured records,and the results are presented in details.At 3-minute resolution,tides were generally well predicted,with the root mean-square errors of less than 0.11 m and an overall correlation of more than 0.9.Storms(winds and depressions) were introduced into the model forcing by using the parameter typhoon model.Five typical typhoons that threatened Taiwan were simulated for assessment.The surges were well predicted compared with the records.     

海岸工程对渤海湾风暴潮高潮位影响分析

渤海湾是全世界受风暴潮灾害最严重的地区之一。近年来渤海湾建设了大量的大型海岸工程,为研究其建设以后风暴潮可能发生的变化,采用大-中-小区域多重嵌套方法,建立渤海风暴潮二维数值模型。以对渤海海域影响最显著的9216、9711台风和2003年10月三次风暴潮为例,对渤海湾大型工程实施前、后的风暴潮过程进行模拟,分析工程实施后风暴潮高潮水位变化,为工程实施可能对风暴潮防护带来的影响提供基础。计算表明,由于沿岸围垦减小海域的纳潮受水面积,海水被挤压抬升,渤海湾海域工程后风暴潮高潮位普遍抬升。在特大风暴潮作用下,水位最大升高可达0.10 m以上,在堤防设计中需引起重视。     

Simulation of Storm Surges in the Bay of Bengal Using One-Way Coupling Between NMM-WRF and IITD Storm Surge Model

The storm surge associated with severe tropical cyclones (TCs) in the Bay of Bengal (BoB) is a serious concern along the coastal regions of India, Bangladesh, Myanmar, and Sri Lanka. It is one of the most hazardous elements associated with landfalling TCs other than strong winds and heavy precipitation and about 75% of the casualities in this region are attributed to storm surges. Therefore, it is highly essential to predict the storm surges with greater accuracy at least 2 days in advance for effective evacuation. In the present study, an attempt is made to simulate the storm surges associated with severe TCs in the BoB using one-way coupling of the Non-hydrostatic Mesoscale Model core of Weather Research and Forecasting (NMM-WRF) system with the two-dimensional finite-difference storm surge model developed at the Indian Institute of Technology Delhi (IITD). The NMM-WRF model simulated track, pressure drop, and radius of maximum wind are used to calculate the wind-stress through Jelesnianski wind formulation. The results are compared with the observed/estimated values as provided by the operational/meteorological agencies of India, Bangladesh, and Myanmar. This study suggests that using simulated surface meteorological fields of a high-resolution mesoscale model, the storm surge can be predicted at least 2 days in advance of the actual landfall of TCs with reasonable accuracy. This approach will be helpful in providing disastrous storm warning well in advance in a coastal region, which will help with rapid evacuation from the vulnerable coastal region, relocation as well as protection of valuables, disaster mitigation, and coastal zone management.     

海平面上升对中国沿海地区影响初析

近五十年来中国沿岸海平面变化总的呈上升趋势，年变率平均为１．４ｍｍ／ａ，中国沿岸地形复杂，未来海平面上升可能影响的主要脆弱区为黄河、长江和珠江三大三角洲和滨海平原，其可能受害区域估计达３５０００ｋｍ＾２。影响中国沿岸相对海平面上升的主要因素有：近代地壳垂直运动和地面沉降，台风和风暴潮，海岸侵蚀和海咸水入侵等。     

Decadal-scale morphologic variability of managed coastal dunes

Coastal dunes located in densely populated areas provide various services to man, such as protection against flooding during storm surges. Since coastal dunes are dynamic features, the level of protection they provide varies in time. Therefore, management interventions are often undertaken to stabilize the dunes to reduce the natural variability. This study provides quantitative insight into the morphologic variability of managed foredunes over time spans of decades. We used Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis on a 45 year data set of annually surveyed dune profiles along 97 km of the Netherlands' coast. On average, 70% of the deviations from the time-averaged profiles could be related to cross-shore coherent changes in foredune shape as mapped onto EOF 1. These changes are often largely due to morphologic developments occurring near the dunefoot. Changes in dune shape were coherent over time as well as in the longshore direction albeit with different characteristic patterns along the coast. These results show that managed foredunes may still exhibit considerable morphologic variability that should not be ignored in long-term dune safety assessment studies.     

Managing local coastal inundation risk using real-time forecasts and artificial dune placements

Uncertainty in the behaviour of future storm events and extreme water levels means that the introduction of Early Warning Systems for coastal inundation risk at vulnerable local sites becomes increasing paramount. In this study the coupled hydro-morphodynamic model XBeach is used at two sites along the Emilia-Romagna coastline in northern Italy to predict coastal inundation risk in the presence of coastal structures and temporary artificial dunes. These dunes are typically formed by beach scraping and are used on this coastline to protect beach-front infrastructure during the winter period. Coastal inundation risk is defined by the cross-shore distance between the seaward edge of the building and the time-varying waterline predicted by XBeach. A series of synthetic storm events as well as a real-world scenario that caused dune failure at one of the sites are tested. Comparisons between XBeach results and the Van Der Meer empirical formula for wave transmission behind offshore structures show a very strong agreement, while the real-world scenario indicates promising model prediction performance of dune failure at least one day in advance. A new model tool known as DuneMaker is developed that modifies XBeach model grids to simulate the impacts of scraped/placed artificial dunes of varying size, shape and configuration. The use of this tool is demonstrated on the same model test runs, where it is shown that improved dune design can reduce the predicted coastal inundation risk at critical points of vulnerability identified by the model.     

Integrating anthropogenic factors, geomorphological indicators and local knowledge in the analysis of coastal flooding and erosion hazards

The settlement and development of Québec’s maritime coastline has generally taken place without consideration for coastal dynamics and coastal hazards. Consequently, fighting coastal erosion has become a necessity. Until now, the construction of rigid walls and encroachments has been the preferred approach to the problem. In the Chaleur Bay region, coastal communities are particularly vulnerable to erosion and flooding because a number of residential, commercial and transportation infrastructures have been installed on beach terraces and sand spits. Recent storms, such as the storm of December 2, 2005, have made possible a better understanding of how these rigid defence structures amplify the effects of storm surges and waves. These structures drive the sand away from the coast, lowering beach levels and even causing beaches to vanish entirely from the areas situated in front of the defence structures. The end result is a weakening of the natural capacity of these coastal systems to absorb the energy of waves and a greater risk of coastal flooding. An integrated approach using local knowledge on the one hand, along with LIDAR surveys and a DGPS system on the other hand, have made possible to map the levels reached by flooding at the time of the storm. The results indicate that such levels vary greatly in spatial terms and that the difference between the levels actually reached and the water level measured by tide gauge can be as much as 2 m; a difference that is due to anthropogenic perturbations. This raises questions concerning the safety and the reference levels used for mapping coastal flooding risk. Taking into account knowledge of local communities, analysis of water levels, geomorphological indicators and aggravating anthropogenic factors, an approach and basic criteria are put forward with a view of establishing a reference level for the mapping of flood risk that can be used by community land-use planners.     

Modeling sea dike breaching induced by breaking wave impact-laboratory experiments and computational model

Sea dikes are of crucial importance for the defense systems of low-lying coastal areas in countries such as Germany, The Netherlands, Denmark, etc. As sea dike breaching induced by storm surges is regarded as one of the main causes of coastal flood disasters, reliable predictions of both the breach initiation, formation and breach development is urgently needed. Although a simple preliminary model for the simulation of sea dike breaching initiated from the seaside was developed (Stanczak et al., 2006), its limitations showed the necessity for further research and for the development of a more detailed model. This paper therefore provides a summary of the results of laboratory experiments on the erosion of grass and clay revetment of a sea dike induced by breaking wave impact and describes the new detailed computational model, including an uncertainty analysis.     

深圳近海风暴潮影响因素分析

风暴潮可能给沿海城市造成巨大破坏, 而深圳位于易受台风影响的南海北部沿岸, 经济和人口总量巨大, 但有关深圳近海风暴潮的研究工作却十分匮乏。本文基于区域海洋模式系统(regional ocean model system, ROMS)建立了一个以深圳近海为中心的三层嵌套模型, 用于研究深圳近海台风所致风暴潮的影响因素。首先对2018年台风“山竹”过境深圳导致的风暴潮进行模拟, 模拟结果与观测结果较为一致。在此基础上, 进行一系列参数调整试验, 研究台风登陆地点、登陆角度、台风尺度、台风强度以及移动速度的改变对风暴潮及其分布的影响。结果表明, 在深圳西边登陆的台风, 比在深圳东边登陆的台风产生的最大增水高1.5m左右。由东往西移动并登陆深圳的台风, 比由南向北移动的台风产生的最大增水高1.0m左右。台风最大风速半径增加15%, 最大增水上升0.2m左右。台风强度增强15%, 最大增水上升0.4m左右。台风移动速度总体上对风暴潮影响不大, 但不同登陆地点存在明显差异。当台风在深圳西边或者东边登陆时, 台风移动速度增加30%, 深圳沿海各海湾的最大增水反而上升0.2~0.6m。当台风从深圳中部登陆时, 台风移动速度增加30%, 珠江口的最大增水降低0.1m左右, 大鹏湾和大亚湾的最大增水却相反地上升0.2m左右, 不同海湾对台风移动速度呈现不同的变化特征, 与各海湾水体重新分布到稳定状态时间和台风作用时间有关。     

Assessment and management of coastal multi-hazard vulnerability along the Cuddalore-Villupuram, east coast of India using geospatial techniques

The current study area is coastal zone of Cuddalore, Pondicherry and Villupuram districts of the Tamil Nadu along the southeast coast of India. This area is experiencing threat from many disasters such as storm, cyclone, flood, tsunami and erosion. This was one of the worst affected area during 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami and during 2008 Nisha cyclone. The multi-hazard vulnerability maps prepared here are a blended and combined overlay of multiple hazards those affecting the coastal zone. The present study aims to develop a methodology for coastal multi-hazard vulnerability assessment. This study was carried out using parameters probability of maximum storm surge height during the return period (mean recurrence interval), future sea level rise, coastal erosion and high resolution coastal topography with the aid of the Remote Sensing and GIS tools. The assessment results were threatening 3.46 million inhabitants from 129 villages covering a coastal area 360 km² under the multi-hazard zone. In general river systems act as the flooding corridors which carrying larger and longer hinterland inundation. Multi-hazard Vulnerability maps were further reproduced as risk maps with the land use information. These risk caused due to multi-hazards were assessed up to building levels. The decision-making tools presented here can aid as critical information during a disaster for the evacuation process and to evolve a management strategy. These Multi-hazard vulnerability maps can also be used as a tool in planning a new facility and for insurance purpose.     

北海市沿岸风暴潮特征研究

根据1965—2009年间影响北海市沿岸的热带气旋资料和风暴增水资料,进行统计分析北海市沿岸的风暴潮特征。结果表明:北海市沿岸平均每年发生风暴增水2—3次,其中较大以上强度的风暴增水每年0.87次,严重以上强度的风暴增水每3年有一次;北海市沿岸每年4—11月均有可能发生风暴增水,且集中在7—10月,尤以9月最多。影响北海市沿岸的热带气旋主要以西北行路径为主,且多是穿过雷州半岛或海南岛后在越南沿海登陆,此种情况下,风暴增水曲线表现为周期性波动。另外,本文还采用Pearson-Ⅲ分布和Gumbel分布来估算风暴增水频度,得出北海市沿岸不同重现期的高潮位值。     

渤、黄海天文潮—风暴潮相互作用及其对极值水位的贡献

基于Delft3D模型建立了中国渤、黄海风暴潮数值模型,选取1979—2020年影响该海域的93场风暴过程（包括台风、寒潮和温带气旋）,模拟了所产生的风暴增水和风暴潮总水位。采用泊松—皮尔逊复合极值分布理论,推算了渤、黄海对应不同重现期的极值水位;通过数值试验,对天文潮—风暴潮非线性相互作用对极值水位的贡献进行了量化分析。研究结果表明,渤海的莱州湾、渤海湾,以及黄海的江华湾、西朝鲜湾风暴增水最大,其中江华湾北侧和渤海湾西南侧的百年一遇风暴增水可达4 m;天文潮—风暴潮非线性相互作用在潮差较大、水深较浅的河口、湾顶区域更为显著,与耦合模型结果相比,非线性作用使极值水位值偏小,天文潮、风暴潮增水的线性叠加可显著高估极值水位,高估的幅值可达0.5~0.8 m。考虑重现期极值水位是海岸灾害防护工程的关键设计参数之一,对海岸构筑物的安全和建造成本影响极大,应重视天文潮—风暴潮非线性相互作用对重现期水位的影响。