最优化插值同化方法在预报南海台风浪中的应用

由经验的holland台风模型和NCEP再分析风场资料相结合构造出南海台风风场，结果较好地符合了TOPEX／Poseidon(T／P)卫星高度计观测的风速分布。以此作为第三代海浪模式的输入风场，模拟了1999年约克(York)台风经过南海海域的台风浪，并利用T／P卫星高度计观测的有效波高资料对模式进行同化。结果显示，同化影响半径取为2000km效果较好，同化影响时间是35h，同化改善了模式预报的精度。     

南海北部波浪特征分析

利用南海北部近海区域(20°36.298′N,110°45.433′E)于2012年至2013年的波浪实测资料,统计分析了其波浪特征,为海洋工程建设和波浪能利用提供基本波浪参数。统计结果表明,南海北部年平均有效波高为1.2m,周年平均十分之一部分大波波高为1.5m,年平均周期4.0s,周年最大平均有效波高为4.97m,周年最大平均十分之一部分大波波高为7.34m,常浪向为E向,次常浪向为ENE向。强浪向为E向,次强浪向为ESE向。     

南海西部灾害性地质研究

灾害地质学(hazard geology)是研究对海底工程,特别是海洋石油工程能够产生直接危害,或具有潜在性危害的地质因素的特征及分布规律的科学。在过去几十年的海上石油开发中,由于事先未能对灾害性地质进行详细调查而造成重大损失的事件不乏其例。1973年3月,墨西哥湾一钻井平台,因浅层天然气喷发引起火灾,数千万美元的仪器设备毁于一旦。1977年南海莺歌海盆地作业的一架自升式钻井平台,在水深75m处插桩时,由于埋藏古河道的影响,地层分布不连续，两只柱腿插在古河岸上,至海底以下3m即稳定,另一只桩腿落入古河床,插入21m尚不稳定,致使钻井平台倾斜,后被迫移位才免遭于害。灾害性地质问题的研究已成为海洋石油和天然气开发成败的关键问题之一,因而引起了国内外有关部门的极大重视。1985-1987年,中国科学院海洋研究所受南海西部石油公司的委托,对珠江口以西至北部湾东部的广大海域,进行了大规模的灾害性地质、工程地质的普查及井位调査。调查中先后使用了“科学一号”科学考察船和“南海502”、“南海503”等工程物探及工程地质调查船,在海上进行了七千余公里的综合性工程物探测量,为研究调查区灾害性地质问题积累了丰富的资料。     

波浪骑士数据在高度计有效波高检验中的再处理

以2011年10～11月南海现场试验得到的9次波浪骑士测量数据,进行波浪骑士再处理与默认计算结果比对。比对结果表明两者平均误差为0.16m,均方根误差为0.32m,分析产生误差的原因在于波浪骑士默认计算有效波高时间段的中心与卫星过境时间不统一和未进行数据质量控制。研究表明在卫星高度计有效波高产品检验中,波浪骑士测量的有效波高需要进行再处理,以达到减少卫星高度计有效波高检验误差的目的。     

南海南部活动断裂与灾害性地质初步研究

根据浅层地震剖面资料，本文比较详细地论述了南海南部活动断裂的基本特征和分布规律，同时，还对该区的灾害性地质进行了初步的探讨。     

西太平洋8708号台风海面风、浪结构及其关系的遥感研究

本文以Geosat卫星高度计1987年8月11日在西太平洋海域上的-上升轨道测得的风、浪资料为基础,统计分析了8708号台风影响下的海面风速和海浪特征.结果显示,此次台风影响下的海面风速和海浪波高的空间分布具有相对台风中心近似对称的结构特征,但在台风内区,台风移动方向的右方风速较左方风速增加较快,同时在台风外围,右方风速较左方风速衰减也较快;有效波高没有明显的内、外区结构,且左、右方波高随距离变化也呈不同的衰减率;风速与有效波高的关系在台风中心左右也呈现明显的不同;本文给出了台风的风速及波高随相对台风中心距离变化的经验关系式,以及合风风速与波高的经验关系式等.     

中国南海海域Jason-1卫星回波波形分析

介绍了卫星雷达高度计回波波形形成原理,并对Jason-1卫星经过中国南海海域的回波波形进行了分析.分析结果说明在近海海域的部分回波波形受到地形严重影响,需要通过波形重构进行误差修正.     

基于水槽实验的近岸波浪破碎计算研究

将前人波浪破碎计算及判定公式进行汇总、整理并分成3类;同时,为了对选取公式进行比较,文还将上述公式分为两类破碎波高计算模型,一类是直接计算模型;另一类是联立拍岸浪波高计算模型与破碎判据,建立的间接计算模型。在此基础上,结合实验数据,对破碎波高和破碎指标进行误差分析得出,间接计算模型中,Goda提出的破碎判据效果最好,为下一步拍岸浪精细化预报以及其区域计算模型的建立提供参考。     

GEOSAT高度计遥感分析南海北部的海浪特征

卫星高度计可获取有关海面波浪和粗糙度的信息,可给出较高精度的海浪有效波高值.本文以1988年GEOSAT卫星高度计资料为依据,研究分析了南海北部海域的有效波高特征,并与常规断面调查所得结论作了比较分析.结果表明,GEOSAT高度计研究区域波浪特征与常规手段所得结论基本一致,但对大风浪海况的研究,卫星高度计资料具有明显的优势.     

基于SWAN模型的南中国海“莫拉菲”台风浪研究

我国的水运工程建设频繁受到台风浪的侵袭。为了对台风浪的防灾减灾提供有益帮助,本文基于第三代海浪模式SWAN建立了南中国海台风浪数值模型,并以“0906”号台风“莫拉菲”为例对模拟结果进行了分析。结果表明,台风风场与波浪场相似,即大小均由中心向外围递减,方向均为逆时针旋转;台风风场呈圆对称分布,而波浪场由于受到海底地形与岸线影响,呈现椭圆对称分布。有效波高等值线亦从中心向外围递减,且形状受地形与岸线影响较大。对台风浪组成机制的探讨结果显示风浪和涌浪均可组成台风浪,且海底地形与岸线(例如岛屿效应)亦对台风浪特性有所影响。     

南海北部台风海浪谱的双峰性和成长性

本论文通过对南海北部三次台风过境期间基于浮标观测的海浪谱进行分析,发现虽然大部分成熟的台风海浪谱为单峰结构,但实际上在台风海浪的成长和衰减阶段,双峰谱占据了很大的比例。双峰谱的形成主要是由于风浪和涌浪的叠加以及不同波分量之间的非线性相互作用,我们可以通过能量密度的成长率对谱型变化进行高效的预报。此外,台风海浪的主要波向依赖于台风中心相对观测点的位置,而波向的分散情况在相距台风中心较远的区域无明显规律。本文提出了一个新的六参数波浪谱型拟合双峰谱,其拟合效果相较于前人的谱型更好。通过验证,形状参数和谱宽度之间的理论关系依然适用于单个谱峰。通过分析谱参量的变化特征,证明了谱参量不仅与台风强度和台风路径相关,还存在很强的交互相关。最后通过拟合海浪谱数据,本文得到了台风影响下海浪有效波高和有效周期之间的成长关系,这对海洋工程实际应用具有重要意义。     

基于WW3的南海北部有效波高时空变化及其极值重现期估算方法分析

本文基于第3代海浪模式WAVEWATCH III （WW3）模拟的1996–2015年海浪后报数据,分析了南海北部有效波高及其极值的时空变化特征,并采用Pearson-III和Gumbel两种极值分布方法对该区极值波高重现期进行了估算。结果表明,南海北部有效波高的季节变化和空间分布与季风风场基本一致,呈现秋冬高春夏低,并自吕宋海峡西侧向西南降低的特征,与ERA5再分析数据结果高度相似。有效波高极值（简称极值波高）的时空分布特征受时间分辨率强烈影响,采用极值数据的分辨率越高（如逐小时）,所展现的台风型波浪特征越显著。扣除季节变化信号后的有效波高和年极值波高均体现出较强的线性增高趋势,近20年升高的比例分别为7.7%和31.6%,值得警惕和关注。该区多年一遇极值波高存在若干个大值区,且与台风的路径、强度有直接联系,表明台风是引发该区域极端大浪的最主要机制。对比Pearson-III和Gumbel极值分布估算结果发现：若极值波高较低,频率随极值波高升高缓慢降低,此时两种极值分布的估算都比较准确,差异极小,可忽略不计;但当研究时间范围内,某年极值波高远超其他年份时,Pearson-III极值分布估算结果明显高于Gumbel极值分布估算结果,且更接近实际极值波高,即Pearson-III极值分布在此情况下表现更好。本研究表明对于特定海区,在出现超强台风引发极值波高远超出其他年份时,不同计算方法对极值波高的估算差异较大,会显著影响重现期的评估。此外,南海北部年极值波高的强烈增高趋势,也可能给计算未来极值波高重现期和海上工程防护带来不可忽视的影响。     

基于多源融合卫星高度计观测数据的南海海浪有效波高的季节变化研究

The seasonal variability of the significant wave height(SWH) in the South China Sea(SCS) is investigated using the most up-to-date gridded daily altimeter data for the period of September 2009 to August 2015. The results indicate that the SWH shows a uniform seasonal variation in the whole SCS, with its maxima occurring in December/January and minima in May. Throughout the year, the SWH in the SCS is the largest around Luzon Strait(LS) and then gradually decreases southward across the basin. The surface wind speed has a similar seasonal variation, but with different spatial distributions in most months of the year. Further analysis indicates that the observed SWH variations are dominated by swell. The wind sea height, however, is much smaller. It is the the largest in two regions southwest of Taiwan Island and southeast of Vietnam Coast during the northeasterly monsoon, while the largest in the central/southern SCS during the southwesterly monsoon. The extreme wave condition also experiences a significant seasonal variation. In most regions of the northern and central SCS, the maxima of the 99 th percentile SWH that are larger than the SWH theoretically calculated with the wind speed for the fully developed seas mainly appear in August–November, closely related to strong tropical cyclone activities.Compared with previous studies, it is also implied that the wave climate in the Pacific Ocean plays an important role in the wave climate variations in the SCS.     

Study of the propagation direction of the internal waves in the South China Sea using satellite images

Internal wave propagation carries considerable vertical shear which can lead to turbulence and mixing. Based on the analysis of more than 2 500 synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and optical satellite images, the internal wave propagation in the whole South China Sea was investigated systematically. The results show that (1) in the northeastern South China Sea, most internal waves propagate westward from the Luzon Strait and are diffracted by coral reefs near the Dongsha Islands. Some impinge onto the shelf and a few are reflected; (2) in the northwestern South China Sea, most internal waves are generated at the shelf and propagate northwestward or westward to the coast; (3) in the western South China Sea, most internal waves propagate westward to the Vietnamese coast, except a few propagate southward to the deep sea; and (4) in the southern South China Sea, most internal waves propagate southwestward to the coast. Some propagate southeastward to the coast of Kalimantan Island, and a few propagate southeastward because of the influence of the Mekong River.     

南海北部2011年台风“纳沙”尾迹处近惯性内波特征的研究

In September 2011, Typhoon Nesat passed over a moored array of instruments recording current and temperature in the northern South China Sea（SCS）. A wake of baroclinic near-inertial waves（NIWs） commenced after Nesat passed the array. The associated near-inertial currents are surface-intensified and clockwise-polarized. The vertical range of NIWs reached 300 m, where the vertical range is defined as the maximum depth of the horizontal near-inertial velocity 5 cm/s. The current oscillations have a frequency of 0.709 9 cycles per day（cpd）, which is 0.025 f higher than the local inertial frequency. The NIWs have an e-folding time-scale of 10 d based on the evolution of the near-inertial kinetic energy. The depth-leading phase of near-inertial currents indicates downward group velocity and energy flux. The estimated vertical phase velocity and group velocity are 0.27 and 0.08 cm/s respectively, corresponding to a vertical wavelength of 329 m. A spectral analysis reveals that NIWs act as a crucial process to redistribute the energy injected by Typhoon Nesat. A normal mode and an empirical orthogonal function analysis indicate that the second mode has a dominant variance contribution of 81%, and the corresponding horizontal phase velocity and wavelength are 3.50 m/s and 420 km respectively. The remarkable large horizontal phase velocity is relevant to the rotation of the earth, and a quantitative analysis suggests that the phase velocity of the NIWs with a blue-shift of 0.025 f overwhelms that of internal gravity waves by a factor of 4.6.     

基于南海定点观测数据的强风场特性研究

为了满足我国海洋工程抗风设计需求,在南海某海洋平台定点开展了原型测量工作。通过对海面上82 m和29 m两处开展实测工作,获得了冬季寒潮和超强台风"尤特"影响下的风场现场实测数据。利用非平稳过程分析方法对两类强风过程的脉动风分量、湍流强度、阵风因子、湍流积分尺度和脉动风谱等风场特性进行了分析。验证了脉动风分布的高斯性,给出了湍流强度与阵风因子的非线性拟合参数,分析了不同高度处风场特性剖面变化规律,证明了脉动风实测谱与Von Karman经验谱的良好拟合关系。     

Simulation of the extreme waves generated by typhoon Bolaven (1215) in the East China Sea and Yellow Sea

Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven (1215) (TYB) in the East China Sea (ECS) and Yellow Sea (YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon. Winds and directional wave measurements were made using a range of in-situ instruments mounted on an ocean tower and buoys. In order to understand how such high waves with long duration occurred, analyses have been made through measurement and numerical simulations. TYB winds were generated using the TC96 typhoon wind model with the best track data calibrated with the measurements. And then the wind fields were blended with the reanalyzed synoptic-scale wind fields for a wave model. Wave fields were simulated using WAM4.5 with adjustment of C_d for gust of winds and bottom friction for the study area. Thus the accuracy of simulations is considerably enhanced, and the computed results are also in better agreement with measured data than before. It is found that the extremely high waves evolved as a result of the superposition of distant large swells and high wind seas generated by strong winds from the front/right quadrant of the typhoon track. As the typhoon moved at a speed a little slower than the dominant wave group velocity in a consistent direction for two days, the wave growth was significantly enhanced by strong wind input in an extended fetch and non-linear interaction.     

South China Sea wave characteristics during typhoon Muifa passage in winter 2004

The responses to tropical cyclones of ocean wave characteristics in deep water of the western Atlantic Ocean have been investigated extensively, but not the regional seas in the western Pacific such as the South China Sea (SCS), due to a lack of observational and modeling studies there. Since monsoon winds prevail in the SCS but not in the western Atlantic Ocean, the SCS is unique for investigating wave characteristics during a typhoon’s passage in conjunction with steady monsoon wind forcing. To do so, the Wavewatch-III (WW3) is used to study the response of the SCS to Typhoon Muifa (2004), which passed over not only deep water but also the shallow shelf of the SCS. The WW3 model is forced by the NASA QuikSCAT winds and tropical cyclone wind profile model during Typhoon Muifa’s passage from 0000UTC 16 on November to 1200UTC on 25 November 2004. The results reveal the unique features of the SCS wave characteristics in response to Muifa, such as non-decaying, monsoon-generated swell throughout the typhoon period and strong topographic effects on the directional wave spectrum.     

南海冬季海浪的时空变率特征

The spatial and temporal variation characteristics of the waves in the South China Sea(SCS) in the boreal winter during the period of 1979/1980–2011/2012 have been investigated based on the European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts interim(ERA-Interim) reanalysis dataset. The results show that the leading mode of significant wave height anomalies(SWHA) in the SCS exhibits significant interannual variation and a decadal shift around the mid-1990 s, and features a basin-wide pattern in the entire SCS with a center located in the west of the Luzon Strait. The decadal change from a weak regime to a strong regime is mainly associated with the enhancement of winter monsoon modulated by the Pacific decadal oscillation(PDO). The interannual variation of the SWHA has a significant negative correlation with the El Ni?o Southern Oscillation(ENSO) in the same season and the preceding autumn. For a better understanding of the physical mechanism between the SCS ocean waves and ENSO, further investigation is made by analyzing atmospheric circulation. The impact of the ENSO on the SWHA over the SCS is bridged by the East Asian winter monsoon and Pacific-East Asian teleconnection in the lower troposphere. During the El Ni?o(La Ni?a), the anomalous Philippine Sea anticyclone(cyclone) dominates over the Western North Pacific, helps to weaken(enhance) East Asian winter monsoon and then emerges the negative(positive) SWHA in the SCS.