微尺度滑动平均方法计算海浪谱奇阶矩的公式

Glazman提出了一种计算海浪谱高阶谱矩的微尺度平均方法,但是,他利用随机过程理论导出的计算偶阶矩的公式和参照偶阶矩结论定义的奇阶矩计算公式之间存在着内在的不一致性.本文在Glazman工作的基础上根据随机过程理论推导了“微尺度平均方法”计算奇阶谱矩的公式,纠正了他的错误.上述结论随即应用于讨论破碎对波面水质点水平速度分布的影响.通过破碎的加速度判据考虑了破碎对速度分布的限制,给出了未破碎波面上水质点水平速度的的统计分布的初步结果.该分布取决于谱宽度参数及白浪覆盖率的大小,当白浪覆盖率较大时明显偏离正态分布.     

On the Spectrum Width of Wind Waves

Based on the universal expression of wind wave spectra, four commonly used definitions of the spectrum width are re-examined. The results show that the non-dimensional spectrum width can measure the width of non-dimensional spectra hut it does not reflect the developing state of the spectra. The dimensional spectrum width expresses the degree of concentration of wave energy of the spectrum in (he process of wind wave growth. Tests show that the spectrum width presented by Wen et al. can objectively measure the degree of concentration of wave energy of the spectrum, reflect the state of wind wave growth, and provides a better result for practical application. The rules for definition of the spectrum width are discussed.     

深水风浪的平均波长与平均周期的关系

在Gaussian波场基础上,推导出以P-M谱和平均JONSWAP谱代表的充分成长和有限风区的深水风浪平均波长与平均波周期之间的关系为.推导中运用了Rice跨零点问题的解并通过滑动时间平均技术估计4阶谱矩.在风浪水槽进行了实验,实验结果与有限风区下推导出的关系相比较,符合较好.     

海浪谱高阶谱矩的计算

分析了海浪谱高阶谱矩不存在的原因。在Ｇｌａｚｍａｎ研究结果的基础上计算了目前工程上常用的ＰＭ谱和ＪＯＮＳＷＡＰ谱的０阶到８阶的谱矩值,以方便实际工程的应用。     

一种白浪覆盖率与风要素关系模式

采用Ｇｌａｚｍ ａｎ 提出的“微尺度平均”的方法,在合理选择平均尺度的基础上计算了ＪＯＮＳＷＡＰ谱的四阶矩,并将此结果与Ｓｎｙｄｅｒ提出的白浪覆盖率模式结合,从而建立起依赖于风速和风区两者的半经验、半理论的白浪覆盖率与风要素关系模式。此模式给出的结果与Ｍｏｎａｈａｎ 等汇集的海洋白浪覆盖率测量数据总体符合良好。     

On estimating random amplitude-modulated harmonics using higherorder spectra

Additive as well as multiplicative noise may occur when acoustic waves propagate through the ocean. Second-order spectral methods fail to retrieve frequencies of such random amplitude modulated harmonic time series, especially when the multiplicative noise is broadband. An existing fourth-order method assumes real Gaussian multiplicative and additive noise. A novel approach is proved herein to impose no constraints on the distribution or the color of the disturbances. It relies on fourth-order special cumulant or moment slices. In particular, the fourth-order moment spectrum is shown to offer computational advantages. Extension to multicomponent models and generalizations to alternative higher order moments are also provided. Simulations corroborate the theoretical results     

On the selection of prognostic moments in parametrization schemes for drop sedimentation

Common parametrization models for cloud microphysical processes use condensate mass density and/or particle number density as prognostic properties. However, other moments of the particle size distribution can likewise be chosen for prediction. This study deals with parametrization models with one and two, respectively, prognostic moments for the sedimentation of drop ensembles. The spectral resolving model defines the reference solution.
The evolution of the vertical profiles of liquid water content, drop number density and rain rate strongly depend on the choice of the prognostic moments in the parametrization models. In models with a single prognostic moment, its vertical profile is copied by all other moments. The moment of most physical pertinence is recommended for prediction. In models with two prognostic moments, the vertical profiles of all moments differ. The orders of the prognostic moments should be chosen close to the order of moments of highest relevance. Otherwise large errors occur. For example, comparison of modelled versus observed radar reflectivity (6th moment with respect to diameter) does not tell much about the quality of other properties if reflectivity is diagnosed from for example, number density and mass density. Furthermore, mass conservation is fulfilled only if mass density is forecasted.     

On the stability of the moments of the maximum entropy wind wave spectrum

The stability of some current wind wave parameters as a function of high-frequency cut-off and degrees of freedom of the spectrum has been numerically investigated when computed in terms of the moments of the wave energy spectrum.From the Pierson-Moskovitz wave spectrum type, a sea surface profile is simulated and its wave energy spectrum is estimated by the Maximum Entropy Method (MEM). As the degrees of freedom of the MEM spectral estimation are varied, the results show a much better stability of the wave parameters as compared to the classical periodogram and correlogram spectral approaches. The stability of wave parameters as a function of high-frequency cut-off result the same as obtained by the classical techniques.     

风浪和涌浪分离方法的比较（英文）

海浪通常以风浪和涌浪混合的形式存在,如何进行分离风浪和涌浪一直是海浪理论研究和海洋工程应用中的重要问题。本文利用模型试验和实测资料,对目前提出的一种二维谱风涌浪分离方法（2D法）和三种一维谱风涌浪分离方法（PM法、WH法、JP法）进行了检验,分析发现：2D法给出的结果整体而言最为可靠,与2D法相比,PM法明显高估了风浪成分,WH法低风速时高估了风浪,高风速时跟2D法比较接近,而JP法在整体上高估了风浪成分。通过调整分割频率的比例系数,改进了PM法,改进后的PM法给出的分离结果与2D法最为一致。     

Invariants of Spectral Moments and their Degeneracy for a Gaussian Surface

The transformation and symmetry properties of surface derivatives and spectral moments under rotation of the coordinate axes are examined. It is shown that the moments as well as the derivatives are generally represented in terms of their rotational invariants. For a Gaussian surface, which is characterized by additional symmetry of correlation matrices, the even moments higher than the second order are degenerate; i.e., only three of them are independent, and only two invariants are nonzero. Specific properties of spectrum symmetry and the joint statistical distribution of the mean and differential curvatures are found in this case. As an application of these results to observation of the sea surface, a simple optical method is suggested for simultaneous remote-sensing measurement of the second- and fourth-order moments. This method is based on the count of reversely reflected light impulses, arising from sea-surface scanning by the continuous laser radiation.     

涌浪对风浪能量影响的实验研究

在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.     

An innovative block partition and equivalence method of the wave scatter diagram for offshore structural fatigue assessment

The fatigue assessment plays an increasing role for the offshore structural safety. Many fatigue assessment methods have been developed for this purpose. Among those methods, the time domain method is regarded as the most accurate method but less adopted in practice due to time consuming. In order to improve the efficiency of the time domain method, an innovative block partition and equivalence method of the wave scatter diagram is developed for offshore structural fatigue assessment. After the wave scatter diagram is partitioned into several blocks, the newly developed method, involves determination of the equivalent wave height, wave period and occurrence probability of the representative sea states based on modified energy equivalent principle. The equivalent wave period of the representative sea state is calculated via the spectral moment formula in which the equivalent spectral moments of zero and second order are obtained based on the weighted averaging principle. Combining with the determined wave period, the equivalent significant wave height can be determined by reversing the wave spectrum integral formula, where the equivalent wave energy of a divided block of the wave scatter diagram is modified by introducing a factor to compensate the effect of low- and high-amplitude cycles fatigue damage. The equivalent occurrence probability is equal to the summation of the original sea states’ occurrence probability within the divided block. The developed method has the advantage of preserving the stochastic characteristics of the short term sea states within the divided block during determining the representative sea state. At the same time the newly developed method has no limitation on block partition and can be applied on different offshore structure. Two structural models, a fixed mono-pile platform and a floating semi-submersible platform, are demonstrated in the numerical examples. Results indicate that the newly developed method is robust, computationally affordable, and accurate within engineering expectations.     

海浪周期关系的研究

本文利用现场观测数据、实验室风浪槽观测数据和由文氏谱及JONSWAP谱生成的模拟数据,研究了有效周期与谱平均周期、谱峰周期与谱平均周期以及有效周期与谱峰周期的关系,通过数据拟合给出了相应的关系式.研究发现,有效周期与由谱的负阶矩计算的平均周期之间的关系更加稳定,并且有效周期与负2阶矩计算的平均周期几乎相等,均代表了海浪主导波对海浪平均周期的贡献.     

A comparison of sea-state parameters from nautical radar images and buoy data

Nautical radar and scalar buoy measurements of ocean wind generated waves have been analysed to compare the spectral parameters estimated from both sensors. The time series of different sea-state parameters and the differences and ratios of the values obtained from radar and buoy data using different analysis methods are compared. It has been observed that main differences between the sea-state parameters derived by using measurements obtained from both sensors result both from device characteristics and from the method of spectral estimation. In particular, it is shown that the Nyquist frequency has an important effect on the value of the sea-state parameters depending on spectral moments of order higher than zero.     

一个潮流不对称计算方法及其在北仑河口的应用

河口近岸海域潮流不对称对于物质输运、地形地貌变化有重要作用,因此研究河口近岸海域潮流不对称具有重要的意义。从统计学角度出发推导了一种潮流不对称的计算方法,并将该方法应用于全日潮类型的北仑河口。研究认为:从三阶原点矩出发推导的计算方法能够合理的量化潮流不对称;潮流不对称的方向由分潮的相对相位决定,不同分潮对潮流不对称的影响大小由其相对振幅和相对相位共同决定;在正规全日潮海区,三阶原点矩即可满足对潮流不对称的计算。北仑河口潮流表现为落潮流速占主导,潮流不对称空间上表现为口门强于外海,浅滩强于深槽。     

台湾海峡风涌浪分离方法研究

受狭管效应的影响,台湾海峡波浪较大且常与涌浪混合存在。涌浪对包括船舶在内的浮式结构物有着重要的影响,而风涌浪分离是研究涌浪特性的必要前提,也一直是研究的热点和困难问题。由于数据的欠缺和观测条件的限制,在风涌浪分离方法中被普遍认可的二维谱方法常常难以使用,如何选择更为精准的一维谱方法往往会成为实际研究和应用过程中必须面对的问题。利用台湾海峡内3个具有二维谱数据的测站,通过将二维谱分离结果作为参考,针对台湾海峡风浪和涌浪的特征,探讨了风涌浪分离一维谱方法在该海域的适用性问题,研究表明风速法相较其他方法精度更好,在这一基础上提出了一种将波谱积分法与风速法相结合的一维谱方法。     

Probabilistic Models for the Probability of Wave Breaking and Whitecap Coverage Based on Kinematic Breaking Criterion

More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable.     

论风浪的局域结构──Ⅰ.风浪的局域结构与局域小波能谱

基于小波变换,引入了能刻画风浪局域结构的局域小波能谱。论述了风浪的整体结构与局域结构。指出了在不同时间尺度上,风浪具有不同的局域化特征。提出了风场演化过程中整体的共振在线性相互作用是否存在的质疑。     

Ⅱ风浪列率谱的实验研究

利用风浪实验资料,系统地研究了列率谱随风速,风区的演变规律。与频率谱的计算结果比较表明：在主含能频段,特别在峰频附近,两种谱估计方法所得结果基本吻合。但在高频段,特别在二倍峰频附近,两种谱估计方法所得结果存在明显差异。文中就其存在的差异给出了可能的物理解释。     

Effects of sea roughness and atmospheric stability on wind wave growth

The paper considers the effects of sea roughness and atmospheric stability on the wind wave growth by using the logarithmic boundary layer profile including a stability function, as well as adopting Toba et al.'s [J. Phys. Ocean. 34 (1990) 705] significant wave height formula combined with some commonly used sea surface roughness formulations. The wind wave growth is represented by the non-dimensional total wave energy relative to that for neutral stability used by Young [Coast. Engng 34 (1998) 23]. For a given velocity at the 10 m elevation, spectral peak period and stability parameter, the wind wave growth is determined.