Weak dependence of the SWAN wave model on hydrodynamic properties of sea bottom

The third generation of the SWAN wave model is modified by the incorporation of new resistance laws for hydrodynamically rough, incompletely rough (smoothly rough), and smooth underlying surfaces. A modified model is used to determine the functional dependences of wave parameters (such as the dimensionless energy of waves and the dimensionless spectral peak frequency) on a dimensionless fetch. The results of calculations are compared to the experimental data obtained in Lake George (northeastern Australia), which has a nearly constant depth and extended, nearly rectilinear segments of coast. The SWAN model is shown to depend weakly on hydrodynamic properties of the sea bottom: distinctions arising from changes in hydrodynamic properties of the sea bottom are smaller than the variances of experimental estimates.     

Multivariate stochastic wave generation

In this paper, for the case of the fluid particle velocity, a procedure that substantially reduces the computational effort to generate a multivariate stochastic process is proposed. It is shown that, for a fully coherent wave field, it is possible to decompose the Power Spectral Density (PSD) matrix into the eigenvectors of the matrix itself. This leads to generate each field's process as independent, and the time generation increases linearly with the processes' number in the field.

A numerical example to evaluate the statistical properties, in terms of correlation and cross-correlation functions, of the processes is also presented.     

Studying randomness and determinism in surface temperature anomaly indices using the recurrence plot method

Surface temperature anomalies are studied using the methods of recurrence plots and statistical R/S analysis, as well as the Higuchi method for determining fractal dimension. Anomalies of the surface temperature above continents and the temperature in the World Ocean regions and in the Northern and Southern hemispheres are considered independently. It has been indicated that anomalies are more stochastic and deterministic for land and ocean surfaces, respectively.     

An active wave generating–absorbing boundary condition for VOF type numerical model

The objective of the present work is to discuss the implementation of an active wave generating–absorbing boundary condition for a numerical model based on the Volume Of Fluid (VOF) method for tracking free surfaces. First an overview of the development of VOF type models with special emphasis in the field of coastal engineering is given. A new type of numerical boundary condition for combined wave generation and absorption in the numerical model VOFbreak² is presented. The numerical boundary condition is based on an active wave absorption system that was first developed in the context of physical wave flume experiments, using a wave paddle. The method applies to regular and irregular waves. Velocities are measured at one location inside the computational domain. The reflected wave train is separated from the incident wave field in front of a structure by means of digital filtering and subsequent superposition of the measured velocity signals. The incident wave signal is corrected, so that the reflected wave is effectively absorbed at the boundary. The digital filters are derived theoretically and their practical design is discussed. The practical use of this numerical boundary condition is compared to the use of the absorption system in a physical wave flume. The effectiveness of the active wave generating–absorbing boundary condition finally is proved using analytical tests and numerical simulations with VOFbreak².     

A model for numerical simulation of nonstationary sonar reverberation using linear spectral prediction

An innovative approach to the numerical generation of nonstationery reverberation time series is presented and demonstrated. The computer simulated reverberation time series are of high quality, in that they are accurate representations of those which would result from an actual sonar system (transmit/receive and horizontal/ vertical beampatterns; pulse type, shape, length, and power; frequency and sampling rate), platform (speed and depth), and environment (wind speed and direction, backscattering strengths, and propagation loss). Volume, surface, and/or bottom reverberation as seen by a multiple beam sonar on a moving platform is generated. The approach utilizes recent developments in linear spectral prediction research in which the spectra of stochastic processes are modeled as rational functions and algorithms are used to efficiently compute optimal estimates of coefficients which specify the spectra. A two-fold sequence is formulated; first, the expected reverberation spectra for all beams are predicted and, second, the stochastic time series are generated from the expected spectra. The expected spectra are predicted using a numerical implementation, referred to as the REVSPEC (reverberation spectrum) model, of a general formulation of Faure, Ol'shevskii, and Middleton. Given the spectra, the Levinson-Durbin method is used to solve the Yule-Walker equations of the autoregressive formulation of linear spectral prediction. The numerical implementation of the approach, referred to as the REVSIM (reverberation simulation) model, produces nonstationary coherent multiple-beam reverberation time series. The formulation of the REVSIM model is presented and typical results given. A comparison is made between the simulation outputs of the REVSIM model and those of the REVGEN (reverberation generator) model, a standard well-accepted time series simulation model, to demonstrate the validity of the new approach.     

三维完全非线性波浪水槽的数值模拟

用有限元求解拉普拉斯方程,建立了三维完全非线性数值波浪水槽.跟踪流体自由表面的方法为满足完全非线性自由表面条件的半拉格朗日法,对离散单元采用20节点的六面体二次等参数单元.并把数值计算结果与水面初始升高产生箱体内流体运动解析解和二阶斯托克斯波理论解进行了对比,结果表明该模型是稳定的、守恒的,能精确模拟非线性波浪的产生和传播.     

改进的一维分形海面模型在分层海面电磁波透射问题中的应用

运用微扰法研究了平面波入射分层介质粗糙面的电磁波透射问题,采用改进的一维分形海面模型模拟实际的分层海面,推导出了平面波入射时的透射系数计算公式.通过数值计算得到了HH极化透射系数随散射角的变化曲线,讨论了中间介质介电常数和厚度、摩擦风速和入射波频率对透射系数的影响,得到改进的一维分形分层海面透射系数的基本特征、分区特征和随频率变化的特征,结果表明透射系数近似具有"量子化"特征.     

Tests of models for high-frequency seafloor backscatter

The interaction of high-frequency sound with the seafloor is inherently a stochastic process. Inversion techniques must, therefore employ good stochastic models for bottom acoustic scattering. An assortment of physical models for bottom backscattering strength is tested by comparison with scattering strength data obtained at 40 kHz at three shallow water sites spanning a range of sediment types from fine silt to coarse sand. These acoustic data are accompanied by sediment physical property data obtained by core sample analysis and in situ probes. In addition, stereo photography was used to measure the power spectrum of bottom relief on centimeter scales. These physical data provided the inputs needed to test the backscatter models, which treat scattering from both the rough sediment-water interface and the sediment volume. For the three sites considered here, the perturbation model for scattering from a slightly rough fluid seafloor performs well. Volume scattering is predicted to be weak except at a site having a layer of methane bubbles     

Internal generation of waves on an arc in a rectangular grid system

This paper presents a technique to generate waves at oblique angles in finite difference numerical models in a rectangular grid system by using internal generation technique [Lee, C., Suh, K.D., 1998. Internal generation of waves for time-dependent mild-slope equations. Coast. Eng. 34, 35–57.] along an arc-shaped line source. Tests were made for four different types of wave generation layouts. Quantitative experiments were conducted under the following conditions: the propagation of waves on a flat bottom, the refraction and shoaling of waves on a planar slope, and the diffraction of waves to a semi-infinite breakwater. Numerical experiments were conducted using the extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [Suh, K.D., Lee, C., Park, W.S., 1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coast. Eng. 32, 91–117.]. The fourth layout type consisting of two parallel lines connected to a semicircle showed the best solutions, especially for a small grid size. This technique is useful for the numerical simulation of irregular waves with broad-banded directional spectrum using conventional spectral wave models for the reasonable estimation of bottom friction and wave-breaking.     

Optimal Design of TMD Under Long-Term Nonstationary Wave Loading

—Traditionally,the use of a tuned mass damper(TMD)is to improve the surviability of the pri-mary structure under extraordinary loading environment while the design loading condition is describedby either a harmonic function or a stationary random process that can be fully characterized by a powerspectral density(PSD)function.Aiming at prolonging the fatigue life of an offshore platform,this studyconsiders an optimal design of TMD for the platform under long-term nonstationary loading due tolong-term random sea waves characterized by a probabilistic power spectral density(PPSD)function.Inprinciple,a PPSD could be derived based on numerous ordinary PSD functions;and each of them is treat-ed as realization of the corresponding PPSD.This study provides a theoretical development for theoptimal TMD design by minimizing the cost function to be the mean square value of the expectedlong-term response.A numerical example is presented to illustrate the developed design procedure.     

基于选定风浪方向谱的海浪模拟方法(英文)

简要回顾当前第三代海浪模式中的困难。为避开这些困难,作者提出一种新的海浪模拟方法,其中特定定义的风浪组成波依常风下随时间成长的方向谱计算,而涌浪组成波藉考虑涡动黏性和底摩擦加以计算。并进行了常风场和变风场下系统的数值试验。在常风速情形中,模拟结果能精确地化为建立模拟所根据的谱和风浪成长关系。计算显示出台风中心附近浪场的极端复杂的谱结构。当风速骤然降低时,模拟的波高减小与观测符合。在风向逐渐或骤然改变情形下,计算的时间响应尺度与海上观测符合,而且演化中的二维谱结构得到良好刻画。对于涌浪在无风下的传播,模拟结果合理,包括波参量及谱结构的变化。后报得到的波高、周期和海上资料符合。与第三代模式相比,文中提出的方法较易改进,需用的计算机时间显著减少。最后讨论采用一个已知谱来建立谱形式的海浪预报模型的合理性以及有关的问题。     

An analysis of the radar backscatter from oil-covered sea surfaces using moment method and Monte-Carlo simulation: preliminary results

An analysis of the radar backscattering from the ocean surface covered by oil spill is presented using a microwave scattering model and Monte-Carlo simulation. In the analysis, a one-dimensional rough sea surface is numerically generated with an ocean waveheight spectrum for a given wind velocity. A two-layered medium is then generated by adding a thin oil layer on the simulated rough sea surface. The electric fields backscattered from the sea surface with two-layered medium are computed with the method of moments (MoM), and the backscattering coefficients are statistically obtained with N independent samples for each oil-spilled surface using the Monte-Carlo technique for various conditions of surface roughness, oil-layer thickness, frequency, polarization and incidence angle. The numerical simulation results are compared with theoretical models for clean sea surfaces and SAR images of an oil-spilled sea surface caused by the Hebei (Hebei province, China) Spirit oil tanker in 2007. Further, conditions for better oil spill extraction are sought by the numerical simulation on the effects of wind speed and oil-layer thickness at different incidence angles on the backscattering coefficients.     

An Improved Coupling of Numerical and Physical Models for Simulating Wave Propagation简

An improved coupling of numerical and physical models for simulating 2D wave propagation is developed in this paper. In the proposed model, an unstructured finite element model （FEM） based Boussinesq equations is applied for the numerical wave simulation, and a 2D piston-type wavemaker is used for the physical wave generation. An innovative scheme combining fourth-order Lagrange interpolation and Runge-Kutta scheme is described for solving the coupling equation. A Transfer function modulation method is presented to minimize the errors induced from the hydrodynamic invalidity of the coupling model and/or the mechanical capability of the wavemaker in area where nonlinearities or dispersion predominate. The overall performance and applicability of the coupling model has been experimentally validated by accounting for both regular and irregular waves and varying bathymetry. Experimental results show that the proposed numerical scheme and transfer function modulation method are efficient for the data transfer from the numerical model to the physical model up to a deterministic level.     

An Improved Coupling of Numerical and Physical Models for Simulating Wave Propagation

An improved coupling of numerical and physical models for simulating 2D wave propagation is developed in this paper. In the proposed model, an unstructured finite element model (FEM) based Boussinesq equations is applied for the numerical wave simulation, and a 2D piston-type wavemaker is used for the physical wave generation. An innovative scheme combining fourth-order Lagrange interpolation and Runge-Kutta scheme is described for solving the coupling equation. A Transfer function modulation method is presented to minimize the errors induced from the hydrodynamic invalidity of the coupling model and/or the mechanical capability of the wavemaker in area where nonlinearities or dispersion predominate. The overall performance and applicability of the coupling model has been experimentally validated by accounting for both regular and irregular waves and varying bathymetry. Experimental results show that the proposed numerical scheme and transfer function modulation method are efficient for the data transfer from the numerical model to the physical model up to a deterministic level.     

The influence of wave-current sea states on the reliability estimates of offshore towers

Since offshore towers are high-cost, high-risk structures, reliability analysis is of great importance in their design. This paper presents a possible practical approach to certify a design through selective critical member reliability estimates. After a brief review of current research in this field, the authors outline a procedure for reliability estimation of structural members in extreme stress and fatigue limit states. A spectral approach for the extreme response statistics with stochastic loading is described. The reliabilities are computed by the Level II first-order second moment (advanced) method. The fatigue reliability is estimated with a narrow-banded stress assumption with discrete, but significant sea states within the life of the structure. Two numerical examples, a three shallow water model and a two-dimensional deep water model are presented along with the influences of stochastic variables (sea state, current, tubular member diameter) on reliabilities (extreme stress and fatigue damage).     

Modeling a neutrally stratified turbulent air flow over a horizontal rough surface

The neutrally stratified boundary layer over a smooth rough surface is consider. The turbulent flow is simulated using a finite-difference eddy-resolving model of the atmospheric boundary layer (ABL). The model includes different turbulence closure schemes and numerical approximations for advection components of the momentum balance equation. We investigate the quality of reproduction of spectral characteristics of the turbulent flow and the model’s capabilities to reproduce the observed profile of mean wind velocity near the rough surface. It is shown that the best result is obtained by coupling a numerical scheme of higher order of accuracy with a mixed closure scheme based on an adaptive estimation of the mixing length for subgrid-scale fluctuations. Here, we are able to reproduce the asymptotics of the fluctuation spectrum of the longitudinal component of wind velocity near the surface and within the boundary layer as well as the logarithmic profile of mean velocity near the surface.     

Hybrid Analysis Approach for Stochastic Response of Offshore Jacket Platforms

The dynamic response of offshore platforms is more serious in hostile sea environment than inshallow sea.In this paper,a hybrid solution combined with analytical and numerical method is proposedto compute the stochastic response of fixed offshore platforms to random waves,considering wave-struc-ture interaction and non-linear drag force.The simulation program includes two steps:the first step is theeigenanalysis aspects associated the structure and the second step is response estimation based on spectralequations.The eigenanalysis could be done through conventional finite element method conveniently andits natural frequency and mode shapes obtained.In the second part of the process,the solution of theoffshore structural response is obtained by iteration of a series of coupled spectral equations.Consideringthe third-order term in the drag force,the evaluation of the three-fold convolution should be demanded fornonlinear stochastic response analysis.To demonstrate this method,a numerical analysis is carrie     

方向分布对三维聚焦波浪波面特性影响研究

波浪聚焦被认为是产生极限波浪的重要机理之一,近年来受到普遍重视。通过高阶谱方法,引入造波边界建立数值计算模型,模拟聚焦波浪在不同方向分布时的产生和聚焦过程,研究波浪的方向分布对聚焦波浪的波面、波峰最大值、聚焦点的偏移、波面参数及频谱的影响。研究结果表明波浪方向分布越窄,波浪的非线性影响越强、波面越陡,波峰值、聚焦点的偏移和波面特征参数都越大;同时方向分布对波浪聚焦前后的能量具有很大的影响。     

Modeling of nonlinear wave propagation over fringing reefs

The applicability of existing nonlinear (triad) spectral models for steep slopes (0.1–0.2) characteristic of reef environments was investigated, using both deterministic (phase-resolving) and stochastic (phased-averaged) formulations. Model performance was tested using laboratory observations of unidirectional wave transformation over steep and smooth bathymetry profiles. The models, developed for mild slopes, were implemented with minimal modifications (the inclusion of breaking parametrizations and linear steep-slope corrections) required by laboratory data. The deterministic model produced typically more accurate predictions than the stochastic one, but the phase averaged formulation proved fast enough to allow for an inverse modeling search for the optimal breaking parametrization. The effects of the additional assumptions of the stochastic approach resulted in a slower than observed evolution of the infragravity band. Despite the challenge posed by the fast wave evolution and energetic breaking characteristic to the steep reef slopes, both formulations performed overall well, and should be considered as good provisional candidates for use in numerical investigation of wave–current interaction processes on steep reefs.     

Stochastic simulations of ocean waves: An uncertainty quantification study

The primary objective of this study is to introduce a stochastic framework based on generalized polynomial chaos (gPC) for uncertainty quantification in numerical ocean wave simulations. The techniques we present can be easily extended to other numerical ocean simulation applications. We perform stochastic simulations using a relatively new numerical method to simulate the HISWA (Hindcasting Shallow Water Waves) laboratory experiment for directional near-shore wave propagation and induced currents in a shallow-water wave basin. We solve the phased-averaged equation with hybrid discretization based on discontinuous Galerkin projections, spectral elements, and Fourier expansions. We first validate the deterministic solver by comparing our simulation results against the HISWA experimental data as well as against the numerical model SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore). We then perform sensitivity analysis to assess the effects of the parametrized source terms, current field, and boundary conditions. We employ an efficient sparse-grid stochastic collocation method that can treat many uncertain parameters simultaneously. We find that the depth-induced wave-breaking coefficient is the most important parameter compared to other tunable parameters in the source terms. The current field is modeled as random process with large variation but it does not seem to have a significant effect. Uncertainty in the source terms does not influence significantly the region before the submerged breaker whereas uncertainty in the incoming boundary conditions does. Considering simultaneously the uncertainties from the source terms and boundary conditions, we obtain numerical error bars that contain almost all experimental data, hence identifying the proper range of parameters in the action balance equation.