Fixed-frequency Stokes wave expansion

The study describes a new fixed-frequency Stokes wave theory that differs from previous Stokes wave theories that fix the wave number. The present wave expansion analytically reveals that the wavelength increases with wave height and exceeds than the wavelength obtained by linear wave theory. A method proposed to comparably transform the wave celerity of Fenton's [Fenton, J.D., 1985. A fifth-order Stokes theory for steady waves. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 111, 216–234.] wave theory to the present one. A direct calculation of the wavelength is introduced for practical solutions, avoiding the need to solve a nonlinear equation using an iterative numerical method.     

Third-Order Stokes Wave Solutions of the Free Surface Capillary-Gravity Wave and the Interfacial Internal Wave

Based on the Stokes wave theory, the capillary-gravity wave and the interfacial internal wave in two-layer constant depth''s fluid system are investigated. The fluids are assumed to be incompressible, inviscid and irrotational. The third-order Stokes wave solutions are given by using a perturbation method. The results indicate that the third-order solutions depend on the surface tension, the density and the depth of each layer. As expected, the first-order solutions are the linear theoretical results (the small amplitude wave theoretical results). The second-order and the third-order solutions describe the nonlinear modification and the nonlinear interactions. The nonlinear impact appears not only in the n (n≥2) times'' high frequency components, but also in the low frequency components. It is also noted that the wave velocity depends on the wave number, depth, wave amplitude and surface tension.     

基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力垂向分布

基于二阶斯托克斯波理论推导了辐射应力的垂向分布表达式,通过算例讨论了辐射应力在深水和有限水深条件下的垂向分布规律,并与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力进行了比较.结果表明,在波浪非线性不强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力表达式计算结果接近;而当水深较浅波浪非线性较强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力在近表面处明显大于基于微幅波理论的辐射应力.采用二阶斯托克斯波理论推导的波浪辐射应力更为合理地反映了波浪非线性效应.     

杭州湾中部实测波浪特性分析

利用杭州湾中部一年实测波浪资料,分析该地区的波参数统计变化特性,采用最小二乘法拟合得出相关参数之间的关系式,并统计分析了频谱特性。结果表明:杭州湾中部以小浪和轻浪为主,在各月分布较为均匀,年平均周期为2.97 s;最大一次波浪过程为冷空气影响所致,影响强度大于台风莫拉克;常浪向分布在东北至东南向,其中又以小浪出现较多,对应的波周期以2~4 s为主;强浪向主要分布在西北和东北方向,对应的波周期主要分布在3~5 s;多数特征波参数之间相关关系较好;由谱分析得知风浪占多数,且以单峰为主。研究结果可为相关工程和理论研究提供基础资料。     

Simplified Method and Improved Solution for Deriving Fifth Order Stokes Wave

As the solution of the two equations for determining the existing fifth order Stokes wave de-rived by Skjelbreia is complex and tedious,the two equations are simplified into one equation for deter-mining d/L,i.e.,f(H,T,d/L)=0.According to this simplified method,three cases of the solution forthe Skjelbreia equations have been found:one accurate solution;more than one accurate solution and noaccurate solution(but there exists the optimum approximate solution in the area of satisfying Skjelbreiaequations).As to the case of more than one accurate solution,the reasonable solution can be judged fromthe method of variational principle,by means of which an optimum solution improved from the solutionof Skjelbreia equations in the area of satisfying the original mathematical equations of non-vortex andnonlinear wave theory,i.e.,the optimum fifth order Stokes wave,is given.     

Focused wave evolution using linear and second order wavemaker theory

In this paper, the evolution of focused waves using different paddle displacements (piston type) under laboratory conditions is presented. It is well known that in intermediate water depths, linear paddle displacements will generate spurious, free, sub and super harmonics. Thus, a second order correction to suppress these spurious free sub and super harmonics was used to generate the focused waves. The focused waves were generated in the laboratory using a linear superimposition principle, in which the wave paddle displacement is derived based on the sum of a number of sinusoidal components at discrete frequencies, whose phases are accordingly set to focus at a particular location. For this method of generation, the second order wave maker theory proposed by Schäffer [24] can be easily adopted and was used in the present study. Two different centre frequencies (f_c = 0.68 Hz and 1.08 Hz) with three different bandwidth ratios (Δf/f_c = 0.5, 0.75 and 1.0) were tested in a constant water depth, to consider both narrow and broadband spectra. These test cases correspond to wave focusing packets propagating in intermediate and deep water regions. Further, for each wave packet, two different amplitudes were considered in order to analyze non-breaking and breaking cases. Thus, by systematically generating the wave packets using the linear and second order paddle displacements, the analysis was carried out for the spectral and temporal evolution of selected long waves. The temporal evolution of the selected harmonics was analyzed using the Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT), to show the propagation of the spurious, free, long waves. Further, the variations in energy for the lower, higher and primary frequency ranges are reported for different wave paddle displacements. The analysis revealed that for the broadband spectrum the differences are more pronounced when using linear paddle displacements. We have also noticed a shift in focusing/breaking location and time (i.e. premature) due to the increase in crest height using linear displacements. The experiment data used in this paper has been provided as a supplementary, which can be used to validate the numerical models.     

三维二阶水波绕射问题的有限元时域计算

本文用有限元法配合时步处理来求解三维非线性水波的绕射问题,自由表面条件和物面条件都满足到二阶,采用人工阻尼区来吸收反射波,流场内的速度势通过求解有限元方程得到。对垂直圆柱体的绕射问题进行了计算,得到了自由表面波高时间历程和圆柱所受到的波浪力,计算结果和有关文献的理论计算结果进行了比较。     

基于射线理论的海脊俘获波机制

虽然众多现场实测资料和数值模拟均表明海脊可以俘获海啸波并引导其传播至远场地区,带来严重的灾害,但少有研究阐述其产生机理。本文基于射线理论,推导了指数型海脊上波浪传播轨迹的理论解,并提出了震源位于海脊顶部的海啸被海脊完全俘获的条件。基于该俘获条件进一步给出了海脊对海啸俘获效率的表达式,用以评估海啸中被海脊俘获影响至远场的能量占海啸总能量的比例。     

Re-study on recurrence period of Stokes wave train with high order spectral method

Owing to the Benjamin-Feir instability,the Stokes wave train experiences a modulation-demodulation process,and presents a recurrence characteristics.Stiassnie and Shemer researched the unstable evolution process and provided a theoretical formulation for the recurrence period in 1985 on the basis of the nonlinear cubic Schr dinger equation(NLS).However,NLS has limitations on the narrow band and the weak nonlinearity.The recurrence period is re-investigated in this paper by using a highly efficient High Order Spectral(HOS) method,which can be applied for the direct phaseresolved simulation of the nonlinear wave train evolution.It is found that the Stiassnie and Shemer’s formula should be modified in the cases with most unstable initial conditions,which is important for such topics as the generation mechanisms of freak waves.A new recurrence period formula is presented and some new evolution characteristics of the Stokes wave train are also discussed in details.     

三维物体上二阶波浪绕射的实时模拟

采用二阶时域理论对非线性波浪在任意三维物体周围的绕射问题进行了研究，对自由表面边界条件进行Taylor级数展开，应用摄动展开可以建立相应的边值问题，而且此边值问题的计算域不随时间变化，运用基于B－样条的边界元方法求解每一时刻的波浪场，二阶自由表面边界条件在时间上进行数值积分，在自由表面加了一个人工阻尼层以避免波浪的反射，速度势分解为已知的入射势和未知的散射势，初始条件采用二阶Stokes波浪场，通过加入物体表面边界条件，得到散射势在时间和空间上的发展，本文对圆柱所受规则波的二阶波浪力和波浪爬高进行了计算，数值结果表明此理论计算准确，效率高，数值稳定。     

基于三阶斯托克斯波的谱估计及海浪数值模拟研究

为了拓宽建立深水非线性海浪频谱模型的研究途径,基于三阶斯托克斯波理论,提出了以改进的三阶斯托克斯波为组成波,以修正的自回归模型(AR)谱估计方法得到的估计谱(简称新谱)为靶谱的非线性海浪模型。通过基于模拟频谱和相位谱反演海浪波面高度时间序列(以下简称海浪时历反演方法)的谱比较方法验证了新谱的优越性,为从根本上解决精确评估海浪谱提供了技术支撑,对于增强未来掌控海战场具有重要意义。     

挟沙能力公式系数的最佳确定

水流挟沙能力反映了运动水体所能挟带泥沙的最大能力,确定水流挟沙力公式对于泥沙数学模型的发展具有重要意义,而关键是其系数的最佳确定。基于最小二乘法原理,对目前广泛应用的水流挟沙力公式中的系数确定提出了一种新的方法——枚举法。枚举法直接应用最小二乘法,有别于常用的先取对数后再进行回归分析的传统方法,通过误差分析和结果比较,表明枚举法确定的系数更合理,也提高了公式的精度,使公式能更客观地反映水流挟带泥沙的实际能力。枚举法简单实用,是目前确定水流挟沙力公式系数的最佳方法。     

随机波浪下斯托克司漂移速度是否引起水面漂移物离散的研究

漂浮于自由水面的污染物的的迁移、扩散会受到天然随机海浪的影响。之前的研究（以Herterich和Hasselmann（1982）为代表）普遍认为,随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度会引起水面污染物的离散,这个离散甚至有可能跟风和海流引起的离散同一量级。本研究就随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度是否会引起水面漂移物的离散进行理论和试验探讨。从理论推导可知,随机波浪下的质量输移速度是个定常分量,因此它不会随时间变化而引起水面漂移物的离散。随后我们在实验室水槽中进行了漂移物在随机波浪（P-M谱）作用下的漂移过程的测量。试验结果也印证了随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度不会引起水面漂移物离散的结论。     

畸形波传播速度实验和数值模拟研究

畸形波的传播速度是其最重要的特征参数之一。研究畸形波的传播速度有助于深入和全面了解畸形波的生成机理及其演化过程,另外还可以用于畸形波的预报。针对现有关于畸形波传播速度计算方法(高阶Stokes波理论近似估算,Hilbert变换和两固定点的距离除以畸形波的波峰经过两点所用时间)的不准确性和局限性,使用32个测点描述畸形波波峰沿波浪水槽的运动轨迹,再用回归分析法估算波峰运动轨迹与时间的相关关系,从而计算出畸形波的传播速度。基于288组物理模拟畸形波和364组数值模拟畸形波传播速度的计算结果,使用回归分析方法得出了畸形波传播速度的半经验半理论计算公式,同时还分析了畸形波传播速度的强非线性特征。     

A New Model for Velocity Profiles in Estuarine Waters

Water motion in estuarine waters is the result of the action of various dynamic factors. Firstly, based on the hydro-dynamic characteristics in estuarine waters, neglecting the nonlinear effects of various flow hydrodynamic factors, the logarithm velocity profile of tidal current and the cubic velocity profile of Hansen and Rattray (1965) made for linear superposition at a sense of first order, a new model for velocity profile in estuarine waters is established. Then, by introducing the least square method combination of enumeration, the velocity profile data of wind-driven current measured in the laboratory and that observed at the North and the South Branches of the Yangtze Estuary are verified and compared with other formulas, all with satisfactory results. The results show that the new model not only considers the influences of various dynamic factors, such as tide, wind force, run-off and density pressure with high accuracy, but also provides reasonable boundary conditions on the bottom for hydrodynamics numerical simulation in estuarine waters. Thereby, the accuracy and credibility of numerical computation and prediction of water flow are improved. The research is theoretically important for the estuarine hydrodynamics.     

An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed

The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the calculation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investigated.     

Effect of Stokes drift on upper ocean mixing

Stokes drift is the main source of vertical vorticity in the ocean mixed layer. In the ways of Coriolis - Stokes forcing and Langmuir circulations, Stokes drift can substantially affect the whole mixed layer. A modified Mellor-Yamada 2. 5 level turbulence closure model is used to parameterize its effect on upper ocean mixing conventionally. Results show that comparing surface heating with wave breaking, Stokes drift plays the most important role in the entire ocean mixed layer, especially in the subsurface layer. As expected, Stokes drift elevates both the dissipation rate and the turbulence energy in the upper ocean mixing. Also, ilffluence of the surface heating, wave breaking and wind speed on Stokes drift is investigated respectively. Research shows that it is significant and important to assessing the Stokes drift into ocean mixed layer studying. The laboratory observations are supporting numerical experiments quantitatively.     

Nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves

This article concerns the calculation of nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic analysis method. This is a new approach to the calculation of wave crest distribution, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The accuracy and efficiency of this new approach for calculating the wave crest distribution are validated by comparing the results predicted using it with those predicted by using the Monte Carlo simulation (MCS) method, by using a previous Transformed Rayleigh method, by using some existing wave crest distribution formulas, and by using the measured surface elevation data at the Poseidon platform in the Japan Sea.     

基于MCC理论的内孤立波数值模拟

基于MCC(Miyata-Choi-Camassa)理论,将内孤立波诱导上下层深度平均水平速度为入口条件,结合理想流体完全非线性欧拉方程,建立了两层流体中内孤立波生成与传播的CFD(Computational Fluid Dynamics)数值水槽方法。在系列数值模拟基础上,获得了内孤立波设计振幅与数值模拟振幅之间的相关关系,实现了在振幅可控条件下的内孤立波数值模拟。结果表明,在极限振幅范围内,数值模拟所得内孤立波波形均与MCC理论解吻合良好,而KdV(Korteweg-de Vries)和mKdV(modi-fied KdV)理论解只适用于小振幅的情况。同时,利用CFD数值模拟结果,对内孤立波诱导流速场特性进行了分析,结果表明内孤立波诱导水平速度在上层及波面下方流体层中垂向衰减很小,但在内界面与波面之间流体层中垂向衰减明显。