Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves,wave groups and random waves

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.     

Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves composing wave groups

Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity.     

深水随机波列中畸形波统计特征的研究

本文基于Longuet-Higgins随机波浪模型和JONSWAP谱,进行了大量深水随机波的模拟,获取了畸形波发生概率稳定的随机波列,并对随机波列中的畸形波进行了分析。结果表明,畸形波发生的概率小于基于Rayleigh分布预测结果,且随谱宽的减小而增大。在固定时间段内,畸形波发生的频次服从泊松分布,时间间隔服从指数分布,且随着谱宽的增大,畸形波的发生频次减小,相邻畸形波的发生时间间隔增加。通过小波变换方法分离随机波中的波群,研究了出现畸形波的波群特征,发现一个波群中最多会出现4个畸形波,但是在发生畸形波的波群中,单个畸形波的概率最大。随着谱宽减小,一个波群中包含多个畸形波的概率增加。另外,出现畸形波的波群时间长度服从广义极值分布,随着谱宽减小,畸形波波群的时间跨度增加。     

Sediment transport and beach morphodynamics induced by free long waves,bound long waves and wave groups

New laboratory data are presented on the influence of free long waves, bound long waves and wave groups on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. As a result of the very significant difficulties in isolating and identifying the morphodynamic influences of long waves and wave groups in field conditions, a laboratory study was designed specifically to enable measurements of sediment transport that resolve these influences. The evolution of model sand beaches, each with the same initial plane slope, was measured for a range of wave conditions, firstly using monochromatic short waves. Subsequently, the monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves and then substituted with bichromatic wave groups with the same mean energy flux. The beach profile changes and net cross-shore transport rates were extracted and compared for the different wave conditions, with and without long waves and wave groups. The experiments include a range of wave conditions, e.g. high-energy, moderate-energy, low-energy waves, which induce both spilling and plunging breakers and different turbulent intensities, and the beaches evolve to form classical accretive, erosive, and intermediate beach states. The data clearly demonstrate that free long waves influence surf zone morphodynamics and promote increased onshore sediment transport during accretive conditions and decreased offshore transport under erosive conditions. In contrast, wave groups, which can generate both forced and free long waves, generally reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport under erosive conditions. The influence of the free long waves and wave groups is consistent with the concept of the relative fall velocity, H/w_sT, as a dominant parameter controlling net beach erosion or accretion. Free long waves tend to reduce H/w_sT, promoting accretion, while wave groups tend to increase the effective H/w_sT, promoting erosion.     

Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches

A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions.     

破碎波群的显著特征指标

群发性是风浪破碎的显著特征,最近的研究表明风浪破碎研究应该基于波群而不是单个波。本文探讨破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著特征指标。依据一系列风浪破碎实验数据,采用多种判据与实验现场目测的破碎标记信号相结合的原则划分破碎波群与非破碎波群,考查波群特征量、单个波几何特征量、局地破碎判据指标、波包络几何特征量以及波群能量结构特征量等5大类28个指标在破碎波群与非破碎波群上的分布差异。结果表明:波陡、峰前波陡、瞬时波面斜率、运动学判据指标和动力学判据指标等在破碎非破碎波群上的分布几乎没有交叠;后两者尤为理想,分布明显分离,是破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著指标;而其它各指标在破碎波群非破碎波群上的分布都有不同程度的交叠,不能单独依据它们区分破碎波群与非破碎波群。     

海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究

为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。     

Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms

Low-frequency waves generated on steep (1:10) and mild (1:40) slopes by six series of bichromatic wave groups are studied experimentally. The shorelines for both slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depth. This reduces the reflection of long waves near the shoreline significantly, which for the first time makes possible the explicit observation of outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The breakpoint and released bound long wave mechanisms on the different slopes are compared. Generally, the breakpoint forced long waves dominate the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be more significant on the mild slope. Two parameters indexing the effectiveness of the breakpoint mechanism are compared and the normalized slope tends to give more realistic results. Shoaling of bound long waves is analyzed and the shallow-water equilibrium limit ~ h^−5/2 exhibits a good prediction of the variation of the bound long waves on both slopes.     

Physical simulation of multidirectional irregular wave groups

Real waves are multidirectional waves.In the present study,the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed.Its validity is first confirmed by a numerical model for which the incident boundary condition is determined by use of the proposed method.Then,the physical simulation of multidirectional wave groups is performed in laboratory wave basin.The experimental results show that multidirectional waves with expected wave groupiness,which includes not only its group height but also its group length,can be satisfactorily generated at the specified position in the physical wave basin.     

渤海海浪波高群性特征的分析

海面上的海浪经常有这种现象:几个波高较大的波一连串地相继出现,构成一个群,称为波群。波群不但有较大的能量,而且历时时间较长,因此有很大的破坏力,很多海上建筑物常常受其威胁或遭到破坏。 本文根据在渤海西部某石油平台上观测的海浪资料对该海域的波群进行了统计分析。观测所用的仪器是本所研制的CBS-IV型垂线测波仪。海浪传感器悬挂在石油平台下面,当地水深约20m。每天观测8次,大风天气加测,有时每小时观测1次。本文分析所用海浪记录是平均波高大于0.6m的记录。     

风浪波高间相关性和在波群中波高累积概率

通过分析实验室风浪资料,研究风浪波高间的相关性以及波群中波高累积概率问题,发现风浪波高间相关性虽然主要发生在相邻波之间,但在隔1个波和隔2个波的波高间仍存在一定的相关性。谱宽度对波高间的相关性产生影响,但在相邻波、隔1个波和隔2个波情形下,谱宽度对波高间的相关性的影响方式不同。在相邻波情形下,谱宽度主要影响较大波高间的相关性,对各种高度波高间的总体相关性影响很小。而在隔1个波和隔2个波情形下,谱宽度对各种高度波高间的总体相关性有明显影响。根据实验结果提出含有波高相关因子的波群中多个波波高累积概率分布。     

Radar Investigation of the Structure of Wind Waves

Radar data from three experiments are analysed. Scatter characteristics of 50 cm wind-generated waves have been investigated with a C-band radar in a large wind-wave tank. Evidence of wave groups in sea clutter from the west coast of Scotland in the Sound of Sleat is also presented. The spectrum of the waves in the sound is narrow-banded and the waves are young, like the wind-wave spectrum in the laboratory. Clutter measurements, collected on the English south coast at Portland, of more ocean-like waves with broad band spectra also suggest the presence of wave groups. Evidence of the presence of wave groups is demonstrated in range-time images, as well as in the Fourier domain. Some ad hoc processing schemes, the normalised variance and binary threshold techniques, were successfully applied to enhance the appearance of the wave groups. The wind waves change frequency with fetch in the wave tank and the downshifting process is investigated using range-frequency maps of the radar data. The waves appear to change frequency in discrete steps that are associated with wave breaking events. The difference in wave period before and after breaking could be measured, and a wave crest was shown to be lost to compensate for the change in period, as expected. Some downshifting could also be measured in the Sound of Sleat. The ratio of wave group frequency and wave frequency is inaccordance with Benjamin-Fier sideband instability theory, as it is for the data measured at Portland. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Flow kinematics of focused wave groups on a plane beach in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility

Measurements are presented of the water particle kinematics of focused wave groups generated in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility. Single and repeated wave groups are considered at normal and 20° incidence to a 1:20 plane beach. The single focused wave groups model extreme transient events without the complication of reflections during the data acquisition process. A symmetry-based separation of harmonics method is used to interpret the water particle kinematics at the point of focus. Although the largest component is linear, there are also considerable second order kinematics terms (both low frequency and high frequency). Away from the free surface, the 2nd order difference contribution to the kinematics is a return current opposed to the direction of wave advance. For repeated wave groups, the measured kinematics confirms the presence of a low frequency free wave, followed by higher frequency waves of the main group and trailing higher order harmonic waves. In the breaker and surf zones, there is also evidence of the saw-tooth behaviour of broken waves, followed by scatter due to breaker-induced turbulence. Pulsatile wave breaking of repeated wave groups at oblique incidence is found to drive a longshore current.     

椭圆余弦内波及其对墩柱作用数值模拟

基于FLUENT软件建立数值波浪水槽,研究椭圆余弦内波及其对墩柱的作用。椭圆余弦内波的生成采用推板造波方法,自由面捕获采用VOF方法。首先,模拟了椭圆余弦内波的生成,比较了不同周期和波高下椭圆余弦内波的波浪形态。然后,在特定的周期和波高条件下模拟了三维椭圆余弦内波对单个墩柱及多个敦柱的作用;分析了各墩柱上受到的惯性力和粘性力的变化趋势,并对不同墩柱下的总波浪力进行了对比;得出了墩柱上受到的波浪力也呈现周期性变化并且在波浪前进方向上后墩柱的受力小于靠前墩柱的结论。     

Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups

Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly.     

聚焦波作用下平面网衣结构的水动力特性研究

由于沿海区域的限制以及愈加严重的环境污染,渔业养殖正从近海走向深远海。深远海海域的海况更加恶劣,给养殖装备的设计与性能评估带来新的挑战。为解决该问题,对极端波浪与养殖装备网衣结构的相互作用开展研究。基于waves2Foam建立数值波浪水池,极端波浪模拟采用基于NewWave理论的聚焦波模型,网衣结构模拟采用多孔介质模型,并通过与Morison模型计算的网衣受力等效分析,获得多孔介质模拟网衣结构阻力系数的直接估计方法。然后将多孔介质模型嵌入waves2Foam中,开展聚焦波与网衣结构相互作用的数值模拟,同时开展水槽试验,验证数值模拟的准确性。基于数值模拟结果,系统地分析了不同网衣密实度及不同波浪参数下网衣结构的升阻力特性以及网衣结构对波浪场的扰动规律。研究表明：聚焦波波峰幅值和网衣密实度对网衣结构的升阻力影响较大,且升力峰值出现在阻力为0的时刻;网衣结构对聚焦波的时空演化特性有影响,改变了聚焦波波形。     

分段式造波机生成波浪内外部结构的一致性分析

用60个波高仪组成2m×2m的方阵,同步测量波面过程,用Doppler声学流速仪获得了二维正向和斜向规则波、二维正向和斜向随机波以及三维随机波浪场中不同水深处的同步Euler水质点速度各方向分量的高精度的时间过程资料.以此为出发点,讨论了分段式造波机生成波浪的周期分布特征,发现三维随机波浪周期分布的μ值与二维随机波浪比较有明显增大的趋势.分别从速度合矢量方向与波向的吻合程度(对二维波浪)、"多点波面"组合与"波面-水质点速度"组合两种方式得到方向谱的吻合程度(对三维随机波浪)等不同角度,论证了分段式造波机产生的波浪的内外部结构的一致性.     

Analysis of wave groups by wave envelope-phase and the Hilbert Huang transform methods

The wave groups are studied by both conventional wave analysis methods and by the non-stationary Hilbert Huang Transform (HHT) method. Full-scale wave records containing abnormal waves are used. Instantaneous quantities, such as envelope, phase and frequency, are adopted to study the wave grouping. A refined definition of wave group is proposed considering that the wave process is simultaneously amplitude and frequency modulated. The validation of the proposed definition is conducted by analysis of numerical simulation data. Group parameters are proposed based on the time-frequency distribution of energy. An attempt is made to find the relationship between the characteristics of abnormal waves and the group characteristics.     

Laboratory study of wave and turbulence characteristics in narrow-band irregular breaking waves

Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope.     

Intermittency of wind wave group breaking

Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on a series of experiments on wind wave breaking, such probability distributions are investigated. Breaking waves within a wave group were taken as a single breaking event according to recent studies. Interval between successive wave groups with breaker is the focus of this paper. For intervals in our experiments with different fetch and wind conditions, their distributions are all skewed and weighted on small intervals. Results of Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests on time series of these intervals indicate that they all follow gamma distribution, and some are even exponential type. Average breaking-group-interval decreases with friction velocity and significant steepness until the wind is strong enough;most of them are more than 10 times the dominant wave period. Group breaking probability proposed by Babanin recently and the average number of breaking waves in wave groups are also discussed, and they are seemingly more reasonable and sensitive than traditional breaking probability defined in terms of single wave.