基于拟层流风波生成机制的海浪谱模型

海浪谱的能量可以视为由具有不同相速度的谐波携带的能量所组成。基于对风波形成、发展过程的认识,认为各组成谐波的能量由谐波自平均风摄取而来,由此根据拟层流模型推导出谐波能量密度的计算公式,建立以等效风速和峰值频率等为基本参数的海浪谱模型——随机Fourier函数模型,并给出了确定谐波频率、波长、相速度、振幅以及等效风速等模型参数的原则和计算方法。在59个实测样本谱基础上,采用随机建模方法确定模型参数的取值及其概率分布。结果表明,海浪谱模型可以很好地预测谱能,所计算的物理谱与实测谱均值吻合良好。     

一种基于Envisat ASAR波模式数据的有效波高反演算法

The main objective of this paper is to propose a newly developed ocean Significant Wave Height(SWH) retrieval method from Envisat Advanced Synthetic Aperture Radar(ASAR) imagery. A series of wave mode imagery from January, April and May of 2011 are collocated with ERA-Interim reanalysis SWH data. Based on the matched datasets, a simplified empirical relationship between 22 types of SAR imagery parameters and SWH products is developed with the Genetic Algorithms Partial Least-Squares(GA-PLS) model. Two major features of the backscattering coefficient σ_0 and the frequency parameter S_(10) are chosen as the optimal training feature subset of SWH retrieval by using cross validation. In addition, we also present a comparison of the retrieval results of the simplified empirical relationship with the collocated ERA-Interim data. The results show that the assessment index of the correlation coefficient, the bias, the root-mean-square error of cross validation(RMSECV) and the scattering index(SI) are 0.78, 0.07 m, 0.76 m and 0.5, respectively. In addition, the comparison of the retrieved SWH data between our simplifying model and the Jason-2 radar altimeter data is proposed in our study.Moreover, we also make a comparison of the retrieval of SWH data between our developed model and the wellknown CWAVE_ENV model. The results show that satisfying retrieval results are acquired in the low-moderate sea state, but major bias appears in the high sea state, especially for SWH5 m.     

层化海洋中的二阶波散射作用问题

引入Stokes有限振幅水波的多色波作用机制 ,采用二层层化海洋模型 ,分析了层化海洋中非线性波对结构的散射作用问题。提出了二层海洋中二阶水波散射条件的数学表达式 ,进而推导了二层海洋中二阶波对一般型圆柱散射作用的格林积分解式 ,并给出了对解式中自由面及分层界面无限积分的递推算式。     

A note on nearshore wave features: Implications for wave generation

This paper analyses 10 years of wave data from the Mediterranean Spanish (Catalan) coast considering the mean wave climate and storm events from the standpoint of wind-wave momentum transfer and wave prediction. The data, registered by a buoy at about 12 km from the coastline, revealed two main groups of wave storms, with NW and E directions. NW storms correspond to a fetch-limited situation since the intense wind blows from land. Low-pressure centres located over the Mediterranean Sea produce easterly storms. Near the coast the eastern winds from the sea are replaced by NW winds coming from meteorological patterns over northern Spain and south-western France. Wave storms are classified and studied to obtain their main features (including spectral width, wave length, wave age and bimodality) and discussed in terms of wind-wave momentum transfer for operational wave predictions. Observations show a complex coastal wave climate. Fetch-limited storms presented smaller spectral widths while varying wind situations presented larger widths due to the presence of bimodal spectra. These wave features are highly relevant for wind–ocean momentum transfer and, thus, for current and wave predictions. The spectral width proved to be a good indicator of sea complexity and is thus applicable for improved wind drag estimations. A new drag coefficient formulation is proposed, based on existing wind dependent drag expressions, but including also spectral wave properties (a spectral width parameter) that highlights the characteristics of wind-wave generation under pre-existing swell. Such a formulation, once properly validated with field observations, is expected to improve wind-wave predictions.     

Physical mechanism and numerical simulations of surface layer temperature inversion in tropical ocean

1 Introduction Ocean upper mixed layer, with nearly uniform temperature, salinity and density, is formed by sea sur- face forces such as wind stress, buoyancy flux and sur- face waves, etc. Under the mixed layer, thermocline and halocline often exist. Usually the depth of them is almost equal. But in the tropical ocean, the halocline is often shallower than the thermocline. Then between the layer of uniform salinity and the thermocline, there is a layer which has a rather strong density gradi…     

各向异性海面全极化微波双站散射的仿真与分析

为了解各向异性随机粗糙海面的微波双站散射机制及其特性,本文利用解析近似的积分方程模型以及一种改进的半经验海浪谱模型实现了对各向异性随机粗糙海面的全极化微波散射仿真模拟,并与卫星观测数据、经验的地球物理模式函数及已有的解析近似散射模型仿真结果进行了对比,验证了仿真结果的可行性和准确性。利用该模型分析了入射波频率、入射角、极化方式、海面风速及风向等参数对各向异性海面双站散射的影响。模拟结果表明,在不同的入射角、散射角及方位角等观测几何条件下,海面不同波段的双站散射表现出不同的空间散射特性,且对风速、风向等海面动力学参数表现出不同的敏感性,以L波段为例,海面向后半球双站散射在各个极化方式下都对风速较为敏感,而在同极化方式下,其对风向的响应在中低风速和高风速条件下相反,整体而言,低风速下海面双站散射对风向更为敏感。这表明对于海面动力参数的反演,双站散射可以提供比传统单站雷达后向散射更丰富的物理信息。本文探讨了各向异性海面微波双站散射特性,为基于主动式及分布式微波传感器的海洋动力参数遥感反演提供了理论分析基础。     

北极海域海面风场和海浪遥感观测能力分析

卫星遥感是开展北极海域海面风场和海浪分布特征与变化规律研究的重要手段。本文基于在轨多源卫星遥感数据,从遥感观测空间覆盖、时间覆盖和多源卫星遥感数据融合等方面开展北极海域海面风场与海浪遥感观测能力分析,研究主要结果为:基于ASCAT和HY-2A散射计可实现北极海域海面风场遥感观测,通过多星联合观测可获取北极海域时空分辨率优于12 h和0.1°的海面风场遥感融合数据;基于HY-2A、CryoSat-2、SARAL和Sentinel-3高度计可实现北极海域海浪遥感观测,同样通过多星联合观测可获取北极海域时空分辨率优于1 d和0.25°的海浪有效波高遥感融合数据;基于2016年北极海面风场和海浪遥感融合数据,分析得出北极海域海面风场和海浪在2月处于极大值,然后逐渐减小,7月最小,随后开始逐渐增大。本研究表明,基于多源散射计和高度计遥感观测可实现北极海域海面风场和海浪的高时空分辨率遥感业务化监测。     

Construction of synthetic ocean wave series along the Colombian Caribbean Coast: A wave climate analysis

In this paper a methodology is applied to generate synthetic wave series during mean and extreme conditions. An analysis is carried out that describes mean and extreme wave behavior for several climatic conditions along the Colombian Caribbean Coast. During mean conditions, the most energetic ocean waves are observed during the DJF season for both ENSO phases (El Niño and La Niña) for most of the Caribbean Sea. During the Niño years, there is a reduction in the speed of the north-east trade winds and their associated waves, but only in the DJF and MAM seasons. However, during the JJA season, this situation is reversed with the highest values occurring during El Niño and low values appearing during La Niña. Toward the east around the Guajira region, this general pattern is shown to change significantly. For extreme conditions, the results show a significant influence of extreme events toward the northwest, around La Guajira and the insular zones of San Andres and Providence when compared with other regions along the coast. All of these results (including the synthetic wave series) provide a design and management tool for the successful implementation of any coastal project (scientific or consulting) in Colombia.     

Forecasting ocean wave energy: The ECMWF wave model and time series methods

Recently, the technology has been developed to make wave farms commercially viable. Since electricity is perishable, utilities will be interested in forecasting ocean wave energy. The horizons involved in short-term management of power grids range from as little as a few hours to as long as several days. In selecting a method, the forecaster has a choice between physics-based models and statistical techniques. A further idea is to combine both types of models. This paper analyzes the forecasting properties of a well-known physics-based model, the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Wave Model, and two statistical techniques, time-varying parameter regressions and neural networks. Thirteen data sets at locations in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and the Gulf of Mexico are tested. The quantities to be predicted are the significant wave height, the wave period, and the wave energy flux. In the initial tests, the ECMWF model and the statistical models are compared directly. The statistical models do better at short horizons, producing more accurate forecasts in the 1-5 h range. The ECMWF model is superior at longer horizons. The convergence point, at which the two methods achieve comparable degrees of accuracy, is in the area of 6 h. By implication, the physics-based model captures the underlying signals at lower frequencies, while the statistical models capture relationships over shorter intervals. Further tests are run in which the forecasts from the ECMWF model are used as inputs in regressions and neural networks. The combined models yield more accurate forecasts than either one individually.     

基于IDL 的海洋内波波面三维可视化的设计与实现

为了直观、全面及动态地展示内波的时空特性,基于交互式数据语言(IDL)的对象图形方法,研究了三维空间内波波面显示技术的实现方法。应用事例表明,该方法能贴切地展现内波的三维分布和逼真地呈现波动特性,有利于揭示内波的水体结构及其变化特征,在海洋内波表达和理解中具有较高的应用价值。     

中国海域有效波高、海表风速长期变化趋势的季节特征

Long-term variations in a sea surface wind speed(WS) and a significant wave height(SWH) are associated with the global climate change, the prevention and mitigation of natural disasters, and an ocean resource exploitation,and other activities. The seasonal characteristics of the long-term trends in China's seas WS and SWH are determined based on 24 a(1988–2011) cross-calibrated, multi-platform(CCMP) wind data and 24 a hindcast wave data obtained with the WAVEWATCH-III(WW3) wave model forced by CCMP wind data. The results show the following.(1) For the past 24 a, the China's WS and SWH exhibit a significant increasing trend as a whole, of3.38 cm/(s·a) in the WS, 1.3 cm/a in the SWH.(2) As a whole, the increasing trend of the China's seas WS and SWH is strongest in March-April-May(MAM) and December-January-February(DJF), followed by June-July-August(JJA), and smallest in September-October-November(SON).(3) The areal extent of significant increases in the WS was largest in MAM, while the area decreased in JJA and DJF; the smallest area was apparent in SON. In contrast to the WS, almost all of China's seas exhibited a significant increase in SWH in MAM and DJF; the range was slightly smaller in JJA and SON. The WS and SWH in the Bohai Sea, the Yellow Sea, East China Sea, the Tsushima Strait, the Taiwan Strait, the northern South China Sea, the Beibu Gulf, and the Gulf of Thailand exhibited a significant increase in all seasons.(4) The variations in China's seas SWH and WS depended on the season. The areas with a strong increase usually appeared in DJF.     

A joint distribution of significant wave height and characteristic surf parameter

The paper provides a joint distribution of significant wave height and characteristic surf parameter. The characteristic surf parameter is given by the ratio between the slope of a beach or a structure and the square root of the characteristic wave steepness in deep water defined in terms of the significant wave height and the spectral peak period. The characteristic surf parameter is used to characterize surf zone processes and is relevant for e.g. wave run-up on beaches and coastal structures. The paper presents statistical properties of the wave parameters as well as an example of results corresponding to typical field conditions.     

A model of the formation and development of ocean shear wave

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The low-frequency variance of the ocean surface wave field in the area of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current

The low-frequency variance of the surface wave in the area of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) and its correlation with the antarctic circumpolar wave (ACW) are focused on. The analysis of the series of 44 a significant wave height (SWH) interannual anomalies reveals that the SWH anomalies have a strong periodicity of about 4-5 a and this signal propagates eastward obviously from 1985 to 1995, which needs about 8 a to complete a mimacircle around the earth. The method of empirical orthogonal function (EOF) is used to analyze the filtered monthly SWH anomalies to study the spatio-temporal distributions and the propagation characteristics of the low-frequency signals in the wave field. Both the dominant wavenumber-2 pattern in space and the propagation feature in the south Pacific, the south Atlantic and the south Indian ocean show strong consistency with the ACW. So it is reasonable to conclude that the ACW signal also exists in the wave field. The ACW is important for the climate in the Southern Ocean, so it is worth to pay more attention to the large-scale effect of the surface wave, which may also be important for climate studies.     

The long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and the wave height (wind wave, swell, mixed wave)in global ocean during the last 44 a

Utilizing the 45 a European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts(ECMWF)reanalysis wave data(ERA-40),the long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and(wind wave,swell,mixed wave)wave height in the global ocean at grid point 1.5×1.5 during the last 44 a is analyzed.It is discovered that a majority of global ocean swell wave height exhibits a significant linear increasing trend(2–8 cm/decade),the distribution of annual linear trend of the significant wave height(SWH)has good consistency with that of the swell wave height.The sea surface wind speed shows an annually linear increasing trend mainly concentrated in the most waters of Southern Hemisphere westerlies,high latitude of the North Pacific,Indian Ocean north of 30 S,the waters near the western equatorial Pacific and low latitudes of the Atlantic waters,and the annually linear decreasing mainly in central and eastern equator of the Pacific,Juan.Fernandez Archipelago,the waters near South Georgia Island in the Atlantic waters.The linear variational distribution characteristic of the wind wave height is similar to that of the sea surface wind speed.Another find is that the swell is dominant in the mixed wave,the swell index in the central ocean is generally greater than that in the offshore,and the swell index in the eastern ocean coast is greater than that in the western ocean inshore,and in year-round hemisphere westerlies the swell index is relatively low.     

Reflection of large-scale inhomogeneities in the air-sea boundary layer on the intensity of surface wave breaking in the ocean

An overview of experiments is given on the observation of the dependence of the intensity of wind wave breaking on large-scale currents' inhomogeneities and atmospheric boundary layer stratification. The data were interpreted using a model in which the variance of the wind wave breaking intensity reflects fluctuations in the influx of energy to wind waves due to various factors. Translated by V. Puchkin.     

Seasonality and duration in extreme value distributions of significant wave height

This paper presents a statistical model to characterize the long-term extreme value distribution of significant wave height, conditioning to the duration of the storm and accounting for seasonality. A time-dependent version of the peak over threshold (POT) approach is used to build the model, which is then applied to specific reanalysis time series and NOAA buoy records. The model considers the annual and semiannual cycles which are parameterized in terms of harmonic functions. The inclusion of seasonal variabilities substantially reduces the residuals of the fitted model. The information obtained in this study can be useful to design maritime works, because (a) the model improves the understanding of the variability of extreme wave climate along a year and (b) the model accounts for the duration of the storm, which is a key parameter in several formulations for rubble mound breakwater design.     

Diurnal sea surface temperature variation and its impact on the atmosphere and ocean: A review

The importance of the diurnal variability of sea surface temperature (SST) on air-sea interaction is now being increasingly recognized. This review synthesizes knowledge of the diurnal SST variation, mainly paying attention to its impact on the atmosphere or the ocean. Diurnal SST warming becomes evident when the surface wind is weak and insolation is strong. Recent observations using satellite data and advanced instruments have revealed that a large diurnal SST rise occurs over wide areas in a specific season, and in an extreme case the diurnal amplitude of SST exceeds 5 K. The large diurnal SST rise can lead to an increase in net surface heat flux from the ocean of 50–60 Wm⁻² in the daytime. The temporal mean of the increase exceeds 10 Wm⁻², which will be non-negligible for the atmosphere. A few numerical experiments have indicated that the diurnal SST variation can modify atmospheric properties over the Pacific warm pool or a coastal sea, but the processes underlying the modification have not yet been investigated in detail. Furthermore, it has been shown that the diurnal change of ocean mixing process near the surface must be considered correctly in order to reproduce SST variations on an intraseasonal scale in a numerical model. The variation of mixed-layer properties on the daily scale is nonlinearly related to the intraseasonal variability. The mixed-layer deepening/shoaling process on the daily scale will also be related to biological and material circulation processes.