Lagrangian measurements and modelling of fluid advection in the inner surf and swash zones

New laboratory and field data are presented on fluid advection into the swash zone. The data illustrate the region of the inner surf zone from which sediment can be directly advected into the swash zone during a single uprush, which is termed the advection length. Experiments were conducted by particle tracking in a Lagrangian reference frame, and were performed for monochromatic breaking waves, solitary bores, non-breaking solitary waves and field conditions. The advection length is normalised by the run-up length to give an advection ratio, A, and different advection ratios are identified on the basis of the experimental data. The data show that fluid enters the swash zone from a region of the inner surf zone that can extend a distance seaward of the bore collapse location that is approximately equal to half of the run-up length. This region is about eight times wider than the region predicted by the classical swash solution of Shen and Meyer [Shen, M.C., Meyer, R.E., 1963. Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Runup. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 16, 113–125], as illustrated by Pritchard and Hogg [Pritchard, D., Hogg, A.J., 2005. On the transport of suspended sediment by a swash event on a plane beach. Coastal Engineering 52, 1–23]. Measured advection ratios for periodic waves show no significant trend with Iribarren number, consistent with self-similarity in typical swash flows. The data are compared to recent characteristic solutions of the non-linear shallow water wave (NLSW) equations and both finite difference and finite volume solutions of the NLSW equations.     

Process-based model for nearshore hydrodynamics, sediment transport and morphological evolution in the surf and swash zones

Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the nearshore zone were modeled numerically taking into account turbulent unsteady flow. The flow field was computed using the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model, while the free surface was tracked using the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. This hydrodynamical model was supplemented with a cross-shore sediment transport formula to calculate profile changes and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Based on the numerical solutions, flow characteristics and the effects of breaking waves on sediment transport were studied. The main characteristic of breaking waves, i.e. the instantaneous sediment transport rate, was investigated numerically, as was the spatial distribution of time-averaged sediment transport rates for different grain sizes. The analysis included an evaluation of different values of the wave friction factor and an empirical constant characterizing the uprush and backwash. It was found that the uprush induces a larger instantaneous transport rate than the backwash, indicating that the uprush is more important for sediment transport than the backwash. The results of the present model are in reasonable agreement with other numerical and physical models of nearshore hydrodynamics. The model was found to predict well cross-shore sediment transport and thus it provides a tool for predicting beach morphology change.     

On low-frequency waves in the surf and swash

Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash zones on various beach slopes are discussed using numerical simulations. Simulated surface elevations of both primary waves and low-frequency waves across the surf zone were first compared with experimental data and good agreement found. Low-frequency wave characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and their relationship to the primary wave field on a series of sea bottom slopes. Unlike primary waves, low-frequency wave energy increases towards the shoreline. Low-frequency waves in the surf and swash are a function of incident waves and the sea bottom slope and hence the saturation level of the surf zone. Wave energy on a gently sloping beach is dominated by low-frequency waves while primary waves play a significant role on a steep beach. Low-frequency wave radiation from the surf zone on a given beach depends on primary wave frequency and beach slope. However, a very poor correlation was found between surf similarity parameter and low-frequency wave radiation.     

南汇近岸水域近底层泥沙运动和边滩沉积

根据长江口南汇近岸水域17个站的水文泥沙同步观测资料,阐述了该水域近底层泥沙的流速、悬沙浓度的分布和变化。经无量纲潮流动力值的计算表明,研究区存在一个包络南汇边滩先向东南继而向南延伸的舌状高能量区,与高悬沙浓度分布区相一致。通过对悬沙运动和涨、落潮周期流向的分析,揭示了长江口向杭州湾底层泥沙输移的规律,其底层泥沙输移主要集中在低潮位时段,输移时间约占潮周期的36%,其中以南汇边滩向杭州湾输移的时间为最长,大、小潮都在5h以上,与其相关联,在芦潮港水域下层存在着一股东西向的高悬沙浓度的水体。据盐度、潮流、悬沙浓度等要素,并结合絮凝沉降分析得出,南汇边滩的沉积强度是潮滩>潮下带>深水区;边滩舌尖前缘水域的泥沙沉积时间与水体出现向东偏南或向西流的时间一致,这可视为近年来南汇水下沙嘴向东偏南伸展的原因之一。     

波、流共同作用下的泥沙起动

对波、流共存时的床面剪切力及摩阻系数等作了探讨,根据泥沙起动试验,建立了泥沙起动Shields曲线,导出了波、流共同作用下层流和紊流时的泥沙起动公式和起动波高、起动水深.     

Characteristics of sediment transport in the Zhoushan Archipelago sea area

Based on the field data including tidal current,suspended sediment concentration,grain size of surface sediments,the transport mechanism and movement trend of sediments are analyzed using the method of flux decomposition and Grain Size Trend Analysis.The results show that the concentration and flux of suspended sediments decrease sharply from the Hangzhou Bay to the offshore area.The suspended sediment transport is mainly controlled by advection transport including average current transport and Stokes drift-induced transport and the gravitational circulation transport.The surface sediments are transported from the entrance of the Hangzhou Bay to the offshore area in general; meanwhile,the sediment transport has two obvious transport trends in the offshore area.The interaction of tidal currents,residual currents,the East China Sea coastal current,Taiwan Warm Current and wind waves appear to play important roles in the sediment transport.Furthermore,the sediment distribution and transport are significantly affected by the Zhoushan Archipelago.     

三沙湾夏季底边界层动力过程及悬沙输运特征

基于2018年8月福建三沙湾湾内外共两个定点站位的船基和座底三脚架观测数据,研究了三沙湾底边界动力过程及悬沙输运特征。结果表明,三沙湾湾内湾外两个站位均表现出涨落潮历时相近但涨落潮流速明显不对称的现象,即湾内涨潮流速大于落潮流速,湾外则相反。湾内水体受淡水输入影响较大,表现出落潮期间显著的温盐层化,而涨潮期间水体混合良好;湾外水体受淡水影响不明显,表现为水体温度主导的层化。通过对底边界层动力过程的分析表明,湾内(距底0.75m)、湾外(距底0.50m)站位底边界层的平均摩阻流速分别是0.016m/s、0.013m/s,且两个站位拖曳系数基本相等(2.03×10^–3),表明在相同流速下湾内站位的底部切应力更大,近底沉积物再悬浮和搬运相对湾外站位更为显著。因此观测期间悬沙浓度最大值出现在湾内站位,为109mg/L,且悬沙在垂向上的分布可达上层水体;湾外站位悬沙浓度更低,并且底部悬浮泥沙仅能影响至距底5m的水体。悬沙通量机制分解结果表明,三沙湾夏季的潮周期单宽悬沙从湾外向湾内方向净输运,湾内站位向湾内方向净输运74.88 g/(m·s),平流输沙占主导作用,贡献率41....     

海岸破波带内水底悬沙浓度形成机理实验研究

通过大尺度水槽波浪引起泥沙悬移的动床模型实验,研究了沙坝海岸破波带内水底悬沙浓度形成机理,通过比较时间平均水底悬沙浓度与时间平均水底波浪水质点动能或时间平均水底湍动能之间的相关性,论证了利用时间平均湍动能比利用时间平均波浪水质点动能计算时间平均水底悬沙浓度更为适用,并提出了以上时间平均水底悬沙浓度与水底湍动能之间的关系也可以用来近似表达时间变化的水底悬沙浓度与时间变化的水底湍动能之间的关系。研究针对规则波、波群和不规则波3种波浪形态进行,并分别对破波带内的爬坡区、内破波区和沙坝区3个区域实验结果进行讨论。     

The effect of suspended sediment concentration on the settling velocity of cohesive sediment in quiescent water

A laboratory study was carried to qualitatively investigate the effect of suspended sediment concentration C on the settling velocity w_s of cohesive sediment in quiescent water. A bay mud sample was mixed with water in a cylindrical container, and three optical back scatterance sensors were then used to measure suspended sediment concentrations of the mud–water mixture at three levels every 15 s for 5 h while sediments were settling in the quiescent water. Based on the measured sediment concentrations, the settling velocities at different concentrations were derived from the depth-integrated mass balance equation. This study has found that the settling velocity w_s is independent of C in the free settling regime of C<0.3 g/l, and then increases nonlinearly with C in the enhanced settling regime of 0.3<C<4.3 g/l, and finally decreases sharply with C in the hindered settling regime of C>4.3 g/l. The maximum settling velocity occurs at C≈4.3 g/l and is about nine times faster than the settling velocity in the free settling regime. A single empirical formula is also proposed to calculate the settling velocities at different sediment concentrations.     

杭州湾枯季水沙若干特征分析

根据2014年1月及2017年2月杭州湾大、小潮水沙资料,计算了流速、含沙量、单宽潮量、单宽输沙量,进而分析了潮周期断面净潮量、净输沙量和区域冲淤分布。研究发现杭州湾涨、落潮平均流速比值整体较20世纪八九十年代增大,绝大部分区域大于1.0,涨潮流相对增强,澉浦南岸和金山北岸尤为显著。含沙量平面上分布澉浦、杭州湾南岸两个高值区(大潮大于3 kg/m³,小潮大于1.3 kg/m³)以及北岸湾口至乍浦之间的低值区(大潮小于2 kg/m³,小潮小于0.9 kg/m³),随潮汛变化显著,最大含沙量浓度通常滞后于急流时刻。各测站涨、落潮量和输沙量呈现“大涨大落”和“大进大出”的特征,造成杭州湾短时间尺度内的“大冲大淤”。大潮两涨两落金山与乍浦、乍浦与澉浦之间区域净输沙量可达几千万吨,净冲淤则在几百万吨。     

唐山港京唐港区泥沙运动特征与海岸性质界定

海岸性质的界定,是港口航道减淤措施合理布置的关键。通过地形资料和现场测量资料对京唐港区的水下地形地貌特征、泥沙特性以及沿岸输沙特点等进行了分析研究。研究结果表明,京唐港区泥沙中值粒径大于0.06 mm、沉积物中黏土含量小于15%、岸滩坡度通常大于1/1 000;泥沙运动具有沿岸泥沙运动特征,但与沙质海岸又有所不同,存在复合沿岸输沙,尤其在风暴潮期间,大浪产生的破波沿岸流与风暴潮潮流叠加,产生更为强烈的沿岸输沙能力。在粉沙质海岸定义基础上,将京唐港区海岸界定为细沙粉沙质海岸。在京唐港区航道防波挡沙堤布置上考虑复合沿岸输沙,取得良好效果。     

长江口深水航道三维泥沙数值模型相关问题探讨

基于近年来长江口三维水沙盐数值模型及水沙运动机理的研究进展,系统梳理了在长江口实际应用中面临的若干理论和技术难题,其中包括长江口物质输运模拟计算格式的守恒性和稳定性、河口区域河床切应力的准确计算、拦门沙区域近底高浓度泥沙形成机理及数值模型模拟、长江口近底高浓度泥沙横向入槽模式等问题,通过对于上述问题的梳理和总结,表明在长江口这类巨型河口进行三维水沙盐数值模型和水沙机理研究的复杂性,并针对此类区域的模型技术研发和水沙运动理论研究,提出了有科学意义和研究价值的方向和思路。     

小清河口附近海域泥沙运动特征及风场对泥沙输运的影响

根据对莱州湾内小清河口附近海域的海流、含沙量、底质类型分布的观测资料,并结合数值模型的计算结果,分析了该海域的泥沙输运趋势及底床冲淤变化情况。从整个海区来看,含沙量总体趋势为由岸向海逐渐增大,并呈现出北高南低的分布特点,在小清河入海口东北方向海域有一含沙量高值区;底质泥沙的分布沿纵向等深线显示了自岸向海由粗到细的分布规律,沿横向呈北细南粗的特征;浅滩泥沙局部搬运是泥沙淤积的主要来源,河口北侧海域有一较大侵蚀区,淤积区主要分布在河槽以南的滩涂和近岸区域,风场对该海域泥沙输运影响非常显著,小清河河口附近区域在一般天气下海水较清,如遇海向大风,则水体浑黄,但风后悬沙很快沉降,水体又变清。利用数值计算的方法研究了风场对该海域的影响,其影响大约是无风时平均值的10倍。     

长江口北槽泥沙运动现场示踪分析研究

研究利用铱(Ir)作为信号元素制备示踪沙,在长江口北槽深水航道维护困难区段开展示踪沙的现场投放及回收试验。利用火试金法对回收的泥沙样品进行痕量铱金属的提炼,并将其富集在微小铅珠中;再将铅珠压成薄片,并作为原子反应堆照射靶样进行中子活化分析,检测铱的含量。实验结果表明,在位于北槽深水航道北侧的3#坑投放示踪沙,北槽试验区所有泥沙样品中均检测出铱含量,其中位于深水航道南侧滩地上泥样中铱含量最高。因此,北侧3#贮泥坑流失的泥沙存在着跨越航道进入南侧边滩的情况,这对北槽中段航道回淤的影响较大,为改善北槽深水航道困难段的维护条件需要改进该处的抛吹泥工艺或限制抛泥活动。     

苏鲁交界海域表层沉积物类型和分布特征

对2002年采自苏鲁交界海域的466个表层沉积物样品作了粒度分析和粒度参数计算,并进行了沉积物分类和分布特征的研究,结果表明:(1)研究海域的表层沉积物类型主要为砂、粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂、粘土质粉砂和砂-粉砂-粘土5种。(2)研究海域的表层沉积物主体是砂,随着离岸距离的增大,砂含量将逐渐增加然后又逐渐减少。砂含量的经、纬向分带性不明显。粉砂与砂的平面分布特征正好相反,粘土含量的平面分布特征与粉砂相似。(3)研究海域表层沉积物的平均粒径为0.34~7.30,平均为4.09,沉积物颗粒的直径总体上为细砂粒径;分选系数为0.34~4.26,平均为2.10,分选差;偏态为-0.41~0.75,平均为0.29;峰态为0.66~3.69,平均为1.34。(4)根据沉积物中各组分含量、粒度参数、水深、沉积物类型的平面变化特征等,由西向东将研究区分成西部、中部和东部3个分区。由岸向海,西部分区沉积物由粗到细地变化,平均粒径等值线呈NE向与岸线平行分布;东部和中部分区,沉积物粒度变化的规律不明显。     

长江口崇明东滩水域悬沙粒径组成和再悬浮作用特征

根据2006年10月在崇明东滩潮间带和潮下带两个站位的大小潮水文泥沙观测资料和悬沙水样的室内粒度分析资料,对悬沙粒径的时空分布特征及其与流速等的关系进行了分析,并对再悬浮特点进行了探讨,结果表明,大小潮期间的悬沙颗粒组成较细,平均粒径的均值仅为6μm;大潮时的悬沙粒径略粗于小潮的,潮间带的略粗于潮下带的;由底床向上悬沙粒径趋于减小。悬沙粒径与流速、悬沙含量无明显的统计学关系,底质粒径、再悬浮强度和再悬浮泥沙粒径的空间变化以及浮泥的悬浮作用等是主要的影响因素。由于底质粒径的空间分布复杂,在东滩水域再悬浮具有明显的空间变化。在底质平均粒径大于60μm的粗颗粒沉积区,大小潮的再悬浮作用微小,底质以推移质运动为主。在底质平均粒径介于5~11μm的细颗粒沉积区上,悬沙级配与底质级配基本相同,该区域是再悬浮的主要发生源地;悬沙级配的变化过程揭示,再悬浮对底层悬沙的贡献率平均为8%~20%,大潮时的再悬浮强度是小潮的5~10倍,由底质再悬浮产生的悬沙在底部水层中的平均含量约为0.03~0.47 kg/m3。     

洋山港海域水体和悬沙输运机制研究

对洋山港海域水体和悬沙长期输运速度分离,并进行机制分解,分析各种物理过程对水体和悬沙长期输运速度所起的作用.结果表明,水体和悬沙输运存在明显差异,直接描述悬沙净输运更准确合理;欧拉余流在水体长期输运中占主导地位,平流输运和潮泵输运是洋山港海域悬沙输运的主要动力因素,由于潮动力混合较强,垂向输运作用很小.     

北部湾SO-50柱状沉积物地球化学特征及其物源分析

通过对北部湾SO-50柱状沉积物进行粒度、Sr-Nd同位素、主微量元素及AMS14C分析,结果表明该柱状沉积物可以划分为两段,即上段（0~540 cm,0~3.0 ka BP）和下段（540~571 cm,3.0~3.3 ka BP）,它们反映了不同的物质源区贡献。下段较上段砂含量相对较高,主量元素（除SiO₂外）及稀土元素含量相对减少,87Sr/86Sr与ε_Nd除异常点外,总体变化幅度不大。研究结果显示SO-50柱状沉积物的物质来源比较稳定,具有强烈的陆源特征,下段沉积物的源区主要是琼州海峡东侧原有沉积物的再搬运和台湾岛河流携带沉积物的混合,上段沉积物除了琼州海峡东侧和台湾岛的贡献外,周边陆区海岸侵蚀物的贡献相对加强。根据SO-50柱状沉积物的研究结果表明,北部湾东部泥质区的物质来源除了琼州海峡东侧沉积物和沿岸侵蚀物的贡献外,台湾岛河流携带的沉积物对其影响也应引起重视。     

A numerical study of transport dynamics and seasonal variability of the Yellow River sediment in the Bohai and Yellow seas

A sediment numerical model was embedded into a wave-tide-circulation coupled model to simulate the transport processes of the Yellow River-derived sediment considering the wave-induced vertical mixing (Bv) and the wave-current coupled bottom shear stress (BSS). Numerical results show that the main stream of the Yellow River-derived sediment moves first eastward off the northern Shandong Peninsula and then southward into the South Yellow Sea all year round. In spring, the sediment moves northeastward in the Bohai Sea. In summer, there is a northeastward branch of sediment in the Bohai Sea off the west coast of the Liaodong Peninsula, while the main part goes eastward to the Yellow Sea. The Yellow River-derived sediment transport from the Bohai Sea to the North Yellow Sea across the Bohai Strait is mainly limited to the top 10 m, and with a maximum centered at 37.9°N in summer. The transport from the North Yellow Sea to the South Yellow Sea across the transect of 37°N is mainly in the 0–30 m layer with a maximum around 123.7°E in autumn. The simulated Yellow River-discharged sediment deposits along the Shandong Peninsula and between 20 and 30 m isobaths in the Yellow Sea, which is consistent with observation. If surface waves are not considered in the model, the sediment deposits westward to the nearshore area in the South Yellow Sea. The sediment would deposit further southward in the numerical experiment results without wind influence. In the numerical experiment of no tide, there is hardly any sediment deposited on the Yellow Sea floor, while in the Bohai Sea most of the sediment is transported southward and northwestward around the river mouth instead of eastward as in the Control Run, indicating the tides play a key role in forming the deposition pattern.