深水波浪破碎时波浪演化特征实验研究

采用能量聚焦的方式产生深水破碎波,并通过增加输入波陡使发生不同强度的波浪破碎现象。实验中,沿水槽中心位置布置22个浪高仪,分析波浪传播过程中的波面演化特征。对水槽不同位置处波面数据进行波能谱与小波能谱分析,发现在聚焦波传播过程中,低频能量部分保持相对稳定,而一次谐波高频部分先逐渐拓宽,经过破碎区域后又逐渐恢复。能量在高频部分有所损失,这种现象在破碎时更加明显,且破碎强度越大,越显著。波浪未破碎时,由于波浪传播过程中高频部分拓宽,导致聚焦前后特征频率略有增加,特征群速和特征周期略有减小;当波浪破碎时,由于破碎导致的能量损失比较明显,且卷破时更加明显,导致破碎后特征频率减小,特征群速和特征周期增大。     

结合椭圆型缓坡方程模拟近岸波流场

波浪向近岸传播的过程中,由波浪破碎效应所产生的近岸波流场是近岸海域关键的水动力学因素之一.结合近岸波浪场的椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波浪场及由斜向入射波浪破碎后所形成的近岸波流场进行了数值模拟.计算中考虑到波浪向近岸传播中由于波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应使局部复杂区域波向不易确定,采用结合椭圆型缓坡方程所给出的波浪辐射应力公式来计算波浪产生的辐射应力,在此基础上耦合椭圆型缓坡方程和近岸波流场数学模型对近岸波流场进行数值模拟,从而使模型综合考虑了波浪的折射、绕射、反射等效应且避免了对波向角的直接求解,可以应用于相对较复杂区域的近岸波流场模拟.     

Spar平台垂荡-纵摇耦合运动失稳机理

研究参数激励和强迫激励共同作用下Spar平台垂荡-纵摇耦合运动的失稳机理.考虑静稳性和排水体积的变化,推导平台的垂荡回复力和纵摇回复力矩表达式,建立规则波浪中平台垂荡-纵摇耦合的运动方程.以经典Spar平台为例,分析平台垂荡-纵摇耦合运动发生马休类型不稳定运动的条件以及平台运动失稳的形式,给出波高和波浪周期平面上平台因大幅运动失稳的参数域.结果表明,当波高相对较小时,波浪的临界周期接近于垂荡固有周期,平台失稳的形式为马休失稳;当波高相对较大时,波浪的临界周期远离垂荡固有周期,平台由于大幅摇摆运动而失稳.     

随机波浪下Truss Spar平台垂荡运动时域分析

研究Truss Spar平台在随机波浪下的垂荡运动特性。采用ITTC双参数谱,考虑绕射作用,数值计算了平台所受的随机波浪力。利用已有的水动力试验和数值模拟结果及Morison方程,估计了Truss Spar平台垂荡方向的附加质量和粘滞阻尼大小。考虑非线性阻尼和瞬时波面的影响,运用Runge-Kutta数值迭代算法,比较了不同随机波浪参数对平台运动响应的影响,特别是波浪特征周期接近垂荡固有周期时。结果表明,当波浪特征周期接近平台垂荡固有周期时,平台产生大幅垂荡运动,频域的运动分析结果比时域结果偏小。     

海滩沙在波浪作用下的垂向分异试验研究

自然条件下的海滩并非由均一粒径的泥沙组成,在波浪作用下会发生泥沙分选。本文针对全级配沙床,开展水槽试验,研究不同波浪动力对海滩沙垂向分异特征的影响。实验结果表明:波高对海滩沙垂向粒度分异性结果影响较大,大波高作用下沙坝处垂向泥沙粒度变化受波浪影响深度达8cm;小波高作用下,由于波能相对较小,波浪第一次触底产生的紊动较弱,使得垂向泥沙粒度变化较小。相同波高不同周期波浪作用下的垂向泥沙分异特征的差异主要表现在上冲水流和重力回落流共同作用下携沙能力的不同。     

乳山湾邻近海域波浪特征要素规律研究

基于高分辨率MASNUM第三代海浪模式并根据Yuan等(2009)提出的波浪破碎统计物理模型,对乳山湾外海2008年各个季节波浪特征要素(有效波高和跨零周期等)与波浪破碎参数(白冠覆盖率、卷入深度和破碎能量损耗率)进行了数值模拟。利用Janson-1卫星高度计观测资料对有效波高模拟结果进行了检验,平均误差在0.17m左右。模拟结果显示,该海域波浪参数具有明显的季节变化特征,在2008-08乳山湾邻近海域受大风天气过程影响期间,有效波高在1.0~1.8m,破碎参数变化显著,白冠覆盖率最大达4.5%,卷入深度在1.5m以上,相应的破碎能量损耗率量值在6~11kg/s3。结果表明,波浪破碎过程对该区域海洋动力环境有着重要影响,是造成乳山湾口表层高溶解氧的可能机制之一。     

柱对称双浮子波能装置散射问题的解析方法

通过构造绕射势特解的一种新表达式,基于特征函数展开法提出了线性入射波作用下柱对称双振荡浮子波能装置散射问题的一种新的表达式,并在此基础上计算了垂向波浪激励力.从速度势的求解过程可知,绕射势和辐射势的计算量相当,但垂向波浪激励力的计算比采用Haskind关系方法简单得多,两种方法的结果一样.另外对不同工况下垂向波浪激励力的变化趋势进行了分析.     

唐山近海海域波浪要素特征分析

本文基于唐山近海海域1#、2#浮标2017年4月至11 月实时海浪观测数据及部分风速风向数据, 对唐山近海海域波浪有效波高、有效波向、有效波周期等波参数特征进行了统计分析, 并利用origin 软件对波参数与风速、风向相关性进行了研究。研究结果表明： 1#、2# 浮标海域常浪向为SSW、SW、SSE, 常浪向有效波高均以0.2 ～ 0.4 m 小浪及3 ～ 4 s 短周期为主,有效波高1 m 以上较大波浪极少出现; 该海域波浪以风浪为主, 波浪破碎速度较快, 有效波高与风速相关性较强, 相关系数r 为0.71, 风向与波向、有效波高与周期基本无相关性, 该研究资料可为海上活动及防灾减灾提供技术依据。     

潜堤上规则波辐射应力的数值研究

在近岸波浪相关研究中,辐射应力是波动在水体中引起的剩余动量流,是波浪运动的重要物理量.在波浪从深水逐渐传向浅水的过程中,波浪的非线性逐渐增强,甚至会发生破碎等剧烈变形,引起辐射应力的强烈变化,对次重力波生成等有重要贡献.应用OpenFOAM精细模拟波浪在潜堤上的传播,得出波浪运动的详细流场信息,计算了有波浪破碎情况下潜...     

波浪增减水的实用数学模型及其数值模拟

提出了一种模拟近岸区波浪增减水的实用数学模型.首先采用考虑波能损失的抛物型缓坡方程数值模拟波浪破碎引起的波浪复振幅变化,接着根据计算得到的波浪复振幅,采用一种新的辐射应力公式计算辐射应力分量,然后采用深度平均方程计算波浪破碎产生的增减水.采用该模型对规则波和不规则波破碎引起的增减水进行了数值模拟,数值模拟结果与实验结果吻合良好,表明该模型可有效模拟近岸区由于波浪破碎引起的增减水.     

海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍能量收支的影响

海浪破碎产生一向下输入的湍动能通量,在近海表处形成一湍流生成明显增加的次层,加强了海洋上混合层中的湍流垂向混合。为了研究海浪破碎对混合层中湍能量收支的影响,文中分析了海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍流生成的影响机制,采用垂向一维湍封闭混合模式,通过改变湍动能方程的上边界条件,引入了海浪破碎产生的湍动能通量,并分别对不同风速下海浪破碎的影响进行了数值研究,分析了混合层中湍能量收支的变化。当考虑海浪破碎影响时,近海表次层中的垂直扩散项和耗散项都有显著的增加,该次层中被耗散的湍动能占整个混合层中耗散的总的湍能量的92.0%,比无海浪破碎影响的结果增加了近1倍;由于平均流场切变减小,混合层中的湍流剪切生成减小了3.5%,形成一种存在于湍动能的耗散和垂直扩散之间的局部平衡关系。在该次层以下,局部平衡关系与壁层定律的结论一致,即湍动能的剪切生成与耗散相平衡。研究结果表明,海浪破碎在海表产生的湍动能通量影响了海洋上混合层中的各项湍能量收支间的局部平衡关系。     

Turbulence and energy dissipations of surf-zone spilling breakers

A laboratory study on the turbulence and wave energy dissipations of spilling breakers in a surf zone is presented. Instantaneous velocity fields of propagating breaking waves on a 1/20 slope were measured using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV). Due to the large region of the evolving wave breaking generated turbulent flow, seven PIV fields of view (FOVs) were mosaicked to form a continuous flow field in the surf zone. Mean and turbulence quantities were extracted by ensemble averaging 25 repeated instantaneous measurements at each FOV. New results for distribution and evolution of turbulent kinetic energy, mean flow energy, and total energy across the surf zone were obtained from analyzing the data. The turbulence dissipation rate was estimated based on several different approaches. It was found that the vertical distribution of the turbulence dissipation rate decays exponentially from the crest level to the bottom. The resulting energy budget and energy flux were also calculated. The calculated total energy dissipation rate was compared to that based on a bore approximation. It was found that the ratio of turbulence dissipation rate to total energy dissipation rate was about 0.01 in the outer surf zone and increased to about 0.1 after the breaking waves transformed into developed turbulent bores in the inner surf zone.     

Effect of Stokes drift on upper ocean mixing

Stokes drift is the main source of vertical vorticity in the ocean mixed layer. In the ways of Coriolis - Stokes forcing and Langmuir circulations, Stokes drift can substantially affect the whole mixed layer. A modified Mellor-Yamada 2. 5 level turbulence closure model is used to parameterize its effect on upper ocean mixing conventionally. Results show that comparing surface heating with wave breaking, Stokes drift plays the most important role in the entire ocean mixed layer, especially in the subsurface layer. As expected, Stokes drift elevates both the dissipation rate and the turbulence energy in the upper ocean mixing. Also, ilffluence of the surface heating, wave breaking and wind speed on Stokes drift is investigated respectively. Research shows that it is significant and important to assessing the Stokes drift into ocean mixed layer studying. The laboratory observations are supporting numerical experiments quantitatively.     

夏季长江口及其邻近海域湍流特征分析

利用2019年7月在长江口科学考察实验研究夏季航段(NORC2019-03-02)中获得的MSS90L湍流剖面仪的直接观测数据,本文计算并分析了该断面的湍动能耗散率ε和垂向湍扩散系数K_Z的分布情况。湍动能耗散率的大小为1.72×10⁻¹⁰～2.95×10⁻⁵ W/kg;垂向湍扩散系数的大小为3.24×10⁻⁷～4.55×10⁻² m²/s。湍动能耗散率和垂向湍扩散系数的分布相似,均为上层最强,底层次之,中层最弱。上层由于风应力的作用,使得湍动能耗散率和垂向湍扩散系数较大;温跃层处层化较强,抑制了湍动能的耗散和垂向上的湍混合。盐度锋面的次级环流会促使低盐水团脱离,锋面引起的垂向环流会加强海洋的湍混合。低盐水团与外界的能量交换较少,湍动能耗散率较弱。长江口海区存在明显的上升流和下降流,它们是由锋面的次级环流产生的;上升流和下降流的存在促进湍动能的耗散与湍混合。     

内孤立波与平顶海山作用的能量耗散实验研究

内波破碎引起的能量耗散和混合是海洋内部的重要物理过程.通过在二维内波水槽进行实验室实验,分析内波与地形的作用,探究内孤立波与平顶海山地形作用时波要素、能量以及湍耗散率的时空变化.本实验利用重力塌陷法在两层流体中制造第一模态内孤立波,通过粒子图像测速技术(particle image velocimetry,PIV)获得...     

Modeling of the eddy viscosity by breaking waves

Breaking wave induced nearsurface turbulence has important consequences for many physical and biochemical processes including water column and nutrients mixing,heat and gases exchange across air-sea interface.The energy loss from wave breaking and the bubble plume penetration depth are estimated.As a consequence,the vertical distribution of the turbulent kinetic energy(TKE),the TKE dissipation rate and the eddy viscosity induced by wave breaking are also provided.It is indicated that model results are found to be consistent with the observational evidence that most TKE generated by wave breaking is lost within a depth of a few meters near the sea surface.High turbulence level with intensities of eddy viscosity induced by breaking is nearly four orders larger than υwl(=κuwz),the value predicted for the wall layer scaling close to the surface,where uw is the friction velocity in water,κ with 0.4 is the von Kármán constant,and z is the water depth,and the strength of the eddy viscosity depends both on wind speed and sea state,and decays rapidly through the depth.This leads to the conclusion that the breaking wave induced vertical mixing is mainly limited to the near surface layer,well above the classical values expected from the similarity theory.Deeper down,however,the effects of wave breaking on the vertical mixing become less important.     

Effect of surface wave breaking on the surface boundary layer of temperature in the Yellow Sea in summer

Near-surface enhancement of turbulent mixing and vertical mixing coefficient for temperature owing to the effect of surface wave breaking is investigated using a two-dimensional (2-D) ocean circulation model with a tidal boundary condition in an idealized shelf sea. On the basis of the 2-D simulation, the effect of surface wave breaking on surface boundary layer deepening in the Yellow Sea in summer is studied utilizing a 3-D ocean circulation model. A well-mixed temperature surface layer in the Yellow Sea can be successfully reconstructed when the effect of surface wave breaking is considered. The diagnostic analysis of the turbulent kinetic energy equation shows that turbulent mixing is enhanced greatly in the Yellow Sea in summer by surface wave breaking. In addition, the diagnostic analysis of momentum budget and temperature budget also show that surface wave breaking has an evident contribution to the turbulent mixing in the surface boundary layer. We therefore conclude that surface wave breaking is an important factor in determining the depth of the surface boundary layer of temperature in the Yellow Sea in summer.     

基于精细温度观测的南海东北部陆坡-深海盆底层湍流混合*

南海是存在强湍流混合的边缘海之一, 但前人对南海湍流混合的研究更多关注的是中上层, 对底层则鲜有关注。本文基于高分辨率温度传感器于2019年5月在南海东北部22个站位海底上方0.5m处持续观测4.4d的温度数据, 分析了2216~3200m深度范围内底层海水温度的时间变化特征, 并探讨了地形粗糙度和内潮对底层湍流混合的影响。分析结果表明, 南海东北部各站位底层海水的温度变化量级约为10^-4~10^-3℃; 温度变化趋势与正压潮变化趋势不同, 温度能谱显示多数站位在全日和半日频带区间出现谱峰, 温度变化更多地受斜压潮影响, 全日、半日内潮起主要调制作用。陆坡-深海盆过渡区及深海盆底层的湍动能耗散率量级为10^-10~10^-9m²∙s^-3, 涡扩散系数量级为10^-4~10^-3m²∙s^-1。观测数据未能显示底层湍流混合与地形粗糙度存在明显的相关性。底层湍流混合的空间分布与过去观测到的南海北部深海盆内潮的南北不对称性分布一致。     

大洋细结构的一种可能的机制Ⅲ.对混合过程动能耗散的估计

继第部分之后研究了惯性内波和近惯性内波由f～的作用所致的剪切不稳定引起的破碎机制。物理上,该机制很象存在由风应力所致薄表面涡旋漂流层时表面波的破碎与饱和过程。惯性内波和近惯性内波的破碎产物与小尺度湍流一起形成了混合块,它与Gregg等人(1986)的持久混合观测结果一致。依据Thorpe(1973)实验的结果作者提出了一个估计湍流动能耗散率和消衰时间的方法。结果表明,在剪切不稳定中近惯性内波在湍动耗散中起了关键作用,而惯性内波引起非常弱的湍动耗散。使用内波能量谱的标准总能量密度估计出的近惯性内波的耗散率和消衰时间与PATCHEX测量结果非常一致。文中还讨论了几个与此破碎机制有关的问题。     

Simulation of the ocean surface mixed layer under the wave breaking

A one-dimensional mixed-layer model, including a Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure scheme, was implemented to investigate the dynamical and thermal structures of the ocean surface mixed layer in the northern South China Sea. The turbulent kinetic energy released through wave breaking was incorporated into the model as a source of energy at the ocean surface, and the influence of the breaking waves on the mixed layer was studied. The numerical simulations show that the simulated SST is overestimated in summer without the breaking waves. However, the cooler SST is simulated when the effect of the breaking waves is considered, the corresponding discrepancy with the observed data decreases up to 20% and the MLD calculated averagely deepens 3.8 m. Owing to the wave-enhanced turbulence mixing in the summertime, the stratification at the bottom of the mixed layer was modified and the temperature gradient spread throughout the whole thermocline compared with the concentrated distribution without wave breaking.