Effect of hydrodynamic properties of the sea bottom on the tidal dynamics in a rectangular basin

Expressions derived for the friction coefficient in an oscillatory rotating turbulent bottom boundary layer (BBL) over rough, incompletely rough (smoothly rough), and smooth underlying surfaces are incorporated as an individual module into a two-dimensional nonlinear tidal model, and the standard version of the model and its modified analogue are used to discuss the titular subject. It is established that the dynamics of tides in the Taylor basin can change noticeably under the effect of hydrodynamic properties of the sea bottom. Such changes occur mainly in the influence domains of amphidromies. In the remaining parts of the basin, relative changes in the amplitudes and phases of tidal sea-surface level elevations do not exceed ±10% and ±10°, respectively. The largest discrepancies of tidal characteristics take place in the cases of the incompletely rough and smooth sea bottoms; the smallest discrepancies, in the case of the rough sea bottom. Estimates for the changes in tidal characteristics that are caused by the usually neglected effects of rotation and phase difference between the bottom friction and the tidal velocity at the upper BBL boundary are presented as well.     

波浪在缓变海底上传播的一个简单数学模型

基于Liu和Shi(2008)的波浪势函数零阶、一阶近似解,采用四阶龙格-库塔法,对缓变海底上一维波浪传播理论模型进行了数值求解,并对波浪在定常坡度的斜坡地形、双曲正切地形为例的传播、变形进行了研究。为了更逼真地描述流体质点的波动特性,将在Euler坐标系下得到的解转换至Lagrange坐标下的解,并绘制Lagrange坐标下坡度为0.2的海滩上的一个波周期内临近破碎前的波形的详细变化过程。此外,计算得到了变水深区域波浪速度势以及自由面的分布,并与Athanassoulis and Belibassakis[34]的结果进行了对比,表明本文模型比保留了六个瞬息项的后者更有效。     

应用SWAN模型分析航道对波浪传播的影响

应用SWAN模型,采用多向不规则波计算了秦皇岛港航道改造工程前后4个具有代表性波向的波浪场,分析了航道对工程区4个不同方向波浪传播的影响并得到了航道沿程的波高分布.改造后的秦皇岛港航道呈折线型,长为24.4 km,相应的计算区域较大,使Boussinesq模型因网格过多而难以进行计算,而缓坡方程模型在处理多向不规则波时计算过于繁琐,SWAN模型在大区域、多向不规则波情况下能够较好地解决计算问题.运用该模型计算的结果表明,秦皇岛港航道改造工程后距航道较近区域的波态发生明显的变化,但工程海区的波浪整体传播规律没有发生大的改变.     

SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响

本文以荷兰哈灵水道海域为实验区域,通过敏感性实验,研究了在14 m/s、31.5 m/s和50 m/s（分别代表一般大风、强热带风暴和强台风的极端条件）定常风速下SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响程度。结果表明,对于近岸浅水区域（水深小于20 m）,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响较小,而且当风速增加到一定程度后,波浪破碎成为影响波高值的主要因素;对于深水区域（水深大于30 m）,一般大风条件下风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响仍然较小,随着风速的继续增大,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高的影响逐渐显著。对于平均周期,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择和风速的改变对其影响均较小,而由水深变浅导致的波浪破碎对其影响较为显著。根据敏感性实验结果,本文对SWAN模型中风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择做出如下建议:计算近岸浅水区域风浪场或深水区域一般大风条件风浪场时,其风拖曳力系数可以直接采用模型默认选项;而对于深水区域更大风速条件,可首先采用模型默认选项试算,然后结合当地海域实测波浪资料进行修正。     

SWAN模型在设计波浪要素计算中的应用研究

采用SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)模型搭建了覆盖整个台湾海峡和台湾岛东部部分海域的波浪模型,并利用此模型计算了常风浪场、崇武海洋站设计波浪要素和西沙湾海域极值波浪场.计算结果显示,在常风浪模拟中,4个浮标站计算值与实测值有效波高绝对误差均在0.20 m以内,平均绝对误差值为0.13 m...     

基于SWAN模型的南中国海“莫拉菲”台风浪研究

我国的水运工程建设频繁受到台风浪的侵袭。为了对台风浪的防灾减灾提供有益帮助,本文基于第三代海浪模式SWAN建立了南中国海台风浪数值模型,并以“0906”号台风“莫拉菲”为例对模拟结果进行了分析。结果表明,台风风场与波浪场相似,即大小均由中心向外围递减,方向均为逆时针旋转;台风风场呈圆对称分布,而波浪场由于受到海底地形与岸线影响,呈现椭圆对称分布。有效波高等值线亦从中心向外围递减,且形状受地形与岸线影响较大。对台风浪组成机制的探讨结果显示风浪和涌浪均可组成台风浪,且海底地形与岸线(例如岛屿效应)亦对台风浪特性有所影响。     

Evaluation of a high-resolution wave hindcast model SWAN for the West Mediterranean basin

This study aims to present an evaluation and implementation of a high-resolution SWAN wind wave hindcast model forced by the CFSR wind fields in the west Mediterranean basin, taking into account the recent developments in wave modelling as the new source terms package ST6. For this purpose, the SWAN model was calibrated based on one-year wave observations of Azeffoune buoy (Algerian coast) and validated against eleven wave buoys measurements through the West Mediterranean basin. For the calibration process, we focused on the whitecapping dissipation coefficient C_ds and on the exponential wind wave growth and whitecapping dissipation source terms. The statistical error analysis of the calibration results led to conclude that the SWAN model calibration corrected the underestimation of the significant wave height hindcasts in the default mode and improved its accuracy in the West Mediterranean basin. The exponential wind wave growth of Komen et al (1984) and the whitecapping dissipation source terms of Janssen (1991) with C_ds = 1.0 have been thus recommended for the western Mediterranean basin. The comparison of the simulation results obtained using this calibrated parameters against eleven measurement buoys showed a high performance of the calibrated SWAN model with an average scatter index of 30% for the significant wave heights and 19% for the mean wave period. This calibrated SWAN model will constitute a practical wave hindcast model with high spatial resolution (˜3 km) and high accuracy in the Algerian basin, which will allow us to proceed to a finer mesh size using the SWAN nested grid system in this area.     

The SWAN model used to study wave evolution in a flume

The SWAN numerical model is used to model the evolution of JONSWAP wave spectra and hence the significant wave height of waves in a tank. Comparison with experiment has shown that modelling triad interactions in the numerical model leads to too low predictions of spectra and significant wave height and should therefore be excluded. The modelling of the breaking constant was also investigated, by looking at the use of a constant breaking constant, Nelson formula, and Goda formula (added into SWAN for this study). Using a constant value of 0.78 within SWAN gave the best comparison between theory and experiment.     

1105号台风“米雷”台风浪模拟研究

以CCMP(Cross-Calibrated,Multi-Platform)风场驱动目前国际先进的第三代近岸海浪模式SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore),对1105号台风“米雷”造成的台风浪进行数值模拟,基于浮标观测资料,验证了模拟数据的有效性,并对台风浪场的分布特征进行分析.结果表明:(1)以CCMP风场驱动SWAN模式,可以较好地模拟“米雷”所形成的台风浪场;(2)模拟的有效波高(SWH——Significant Wave Height)与浮标观测SWH在波高变化的走势上具有很好的一致性,模拟数据的走势则较为平缓,观测数据跳跃较为明显,模拟的SWH具有较高精度,仅在数值上略低于观测SWH; (3) SWAN模式对“米雷”所形成的台风近中心大浪区、台风眼、台风尾迹等方面进行了较好地刻画.     

Simulating typhoon waves by SWAN wave model in coastal waters of Taiwan

The SWAN wave model is typically designed for wave simulations in the near-shore region and thus is selected for evaluating its applicability on typhoon waves in the coastal waters around Taiwan Island. Numerical calculations on processes of wave heights and periods during the passages of four representative typhoons are compared with measured data from field wave stations on both east and west coasts. The results have shown that waves due to typhoons of paths 2, 3 and 4 can be reasonably simulated on east coastal waters. However, discrepancies increase for the simulated results on west coastal waters because the island's central mountains partly damage the cyclonic structures of the passing-over typhoons. It is also found that the included nested grid scheme in SWAN could improve the accuracy of simulations in coastal waters to facilitate further engineering practices.     

基于SWAN模式的全球有效波高数值预报结果之初步验证

利用国家海洋环境预报中心基于SWAN模式和NCEP预报风场模拟的全球海浪预报场,结合Jason-2卫星高度计和NDBC浮标资料对全球海浪场进行了自2013年7月到2014年6月为期1 a的统计检验。结果表明:预报波高与实测值吻合较好,24 h、48 h、72 h预报的均方根误差均小于0.6 m,偏差绝对值均小于0.1 m,相关系数均大于0.91。有效波高的预报精度随预报时效的增加而降低,预报误差在48 h内变化不大,而在48 h后明显增大。有效波高的预报偏差存在地域性差别,全球西风带和热带地区的偏差较大,而赤道无风带和副热带高压控制地区的偏差较小。     

台湾海峡有效波高的SWAN模式与ERA-Interim数据对比分析

有效波高是描述海浪的关键参数。欧洲中期天气预报中心（ECMWF）提供的ERA-Interim再分析数据提供了全球海浪的有效波高,本文选取该数据在台湾海峡2013年3月份的有效波高结果,分别与浮标观测数据以及海浪数值模式SWAN （Simulating Waves Nearshore）的数值模拟结果相对比,来分析其预报效果。结果显示：在浮标点,ERA-Interim数据和SWAN模拟浪高数据与浮标浪高数据的时间相关系数分别为0.94和0.98,ERA-Interim数据的浪高均值约为浮标的51%,为SWAN模拟数据的70%。在台湾海峡区域,ERA-Interim数据与SWAN模拟浪高之间的空间异常相关系数（ACC）月均值为0.51,时序ACC曲线显示,一般在海峡东北口风初起时刻ACC值最小,在风吹遍海峡并增长的过程中,ACC迅速增加,在风速达到最大值之后,ACC开始下降,但ERA-Interim数据与SWAN数值模拟结果在整个海峡区域的浪高最大值与最小值分布位置基本一致。综合分析,ERA-Interim数据能够反映台湾海峡区域此时间段的有效波高的时空变化趋势,在数值上有明显低估。     

风场对SWAN模式在台湾海峡后报结果的影响

本文利用SWAN模式模拟分析了CCMP和DASCAT两种常用风场数据在台湾海峡海面的浪场结果。东北季风期3个月的浪场模拟结果与浮标实测波高时序数据相比,偏差均值不大于0.33 m,偏差均方根不大于0.59 m。一般在浮标波高大于3.5 m和小于1.0 m时,偏差偏大。6 h分辨率的风场数据相较于24 h分辨率风场数据对应的模拟结果更接近于浮标实测结果。在6 h和24 h分辨率的CCMP风场数据和24 h分辨率的DASCAT风场数据的模拟结果中,两两结果间的空间相关系数均不低于0.90,偏差均值不大于0.32 m,偏差均方根不大于0.4 m。     

利用SWAN模型计算的侧边界附近风浪场的变化特征

鉴于SWAN模型不能有效地模拟侧边界附近的风浪场,详细研究了在不同水深和风速情况下模型侧边界附近波要素,包括波高、周期、波向和波长的变化特征和失真范围。计算结果表明水深和风速的变化对于侧边界附近不同波要素的影响是不同的。在风速一定的情况下,失真范围随着水深的增大而增大。在水深一定的情况下,根据波高、周期和波长的相对误差所计算的失真范围与根据他们的绝对误差所计算的失真范围不同。随着风速的增大,根据相对误差所计算的失真范围减小;而根据绝对误差所计算的失真范围变化不大。随着风速的增大,波向的失真范围减小。研究了在水深变化的水域,包括太湖和淀山湖在内的侧边界附近的风浪场,结果表明如果计算范围不适当扩大确实会导致侧边界附近的风浪场失真。因此在利用SWAN模型模拟计算近岸或内陆湖泊风浪场时,需采取适当的措施以减小计算误差。     

Improvement and application of a saturation based wave dissipation function in SWAN model

Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term.     

WaveWatch III 和SWAN模型嵌套技术在业务化海浪预报系统中的应用及检验

根据钓鱼岛海域海监巡航执法保障预报、重点海洋安全保障目标精细化预报等海浪业务化预报工作的新需求,基于 WRF 海面风场预报模型,利用结构网格海浪模型WaveWatch 芋和非结构网格海浪模型SWAN （Simulating Waves Nearshore） 的嵌套计算,建立一套适用于东海区和上海近海的海浪数值预报系统。通过不同数值实验,证明此系统的稳定性和时效性。 利用观测数据对连续2 个月的有效波高值的预报结果进行检验,结果表明：24小时预报平均绝对误差在0.3 m以下;48 小时 预报平均绝对误差在0.5 m以下;72 小时预报平均绝对误差在0.7 m以下,且误差极值主要是由台风过程引起,但预报趋势 仍值得参考。对2次台风过程采用不同风场源数据进行对比试验,结果显示采用实况路径的后报风场,海浪预报精度明显改 善。对于近岸区域采用嵌套计算的SWAN模型预报结果比WaveWatch III 模型预报结果精度显著提高,证明建立的海浪数值 预报系统在满足“稳定性”和“时效性”的基础上,各尺度和分辨率的预报产品“准确性”也能得到保证。     

SWAN模型模拟风浪场侧边界失真范围研究

鉴于SWAN模型存在着不能有效地模拟固壁边界附近风浪场的缺点,即在边界附近所模拟的波要素存在失真的现象,研究了在不同水深、风速和风向情况下模型侧边界附近波要素的失真范围,并对计算结果进行了详细的分析。结果表明水深、风速和风向对于侧边界附近波要素的失真范围具有不同的影响,即在风速一定的情况下,失真范围随着水深的增大而增大;水深一定的情况下,失真范围随着风速的增大而减小、随着风向的增大而增大。在利用SWAN模型模拟计算近岸或内陆湖泊风浪场时,必须采取适当的措施以减少实际计算域侧边界附近计算结果的失真范围。     

A hydrodynamic model of a submerged lenticular wave energy device

The wavemaking capability and energy absorbing characteristics of a single submerged body, constrained to move horizontally in a surge mode, are examined. The body possesses both a vertical axis of symmetry and a horizontal plane of symmetry and is ‘thin’ in the sense that the body draft is small compared to the length. The behaviour of a single body subject to a constraint being placed upon the amplitude of its displacement and the properties of an array of interacting identical devices are also discussed.     

黄、渤海冷空气海浪场的集合预报试验

利用欧洲集合天气预报系统51个预报风场驱动SWAN海浪模式,对黄、渤海2013年12月-2014年2月期间受冷空气影响的海浪场进行数值模拟试验,并利用浮标观测资料对海浪集合预报结果进行初步检验分析,结果显示:从逐时平均偏差结果可知,24h预报时效内集合平均与控制预报性能相近,48~72h预报时效内,集合平均明显优于控制预报,但均比实况偏小;集合分位值(75、90百分位值和极端值)明显优于集合平均,且预报时效越长,优势越明显,集合预报极端值与实况相当或略偏大;从逐24h平均偏差结果可知,集合分位值(75、90百分位值和极端值)比集合平均和控制预报更接近实况。总的分析表明:集合分位值(75、90百分位值和极端值)对受冷空气影响的海浪场具有较强的分辨能力,可以提高对海浪场的预报水平,且有较好的应用潜力。     

SWAN波浪模型和缓坡方程在0903号台风“莲花”波浪数值计算中的联合应用

为了提高近岸台风浪模拟的精度和效率,选取台湾海峡及其邻近海域为研究区域,以0903号台风“莲花”为例,采用大、小网格嵌套的SWAN波浪模型和抛物型近似缓坡方程联合应用的方法模拟了此台风浪场的分布特征.将验证点的计算值与浮标实测值进行对比,峰值的最大绝对偏差为0.89 m,整个模拟过程的平均绝对偏差为0.45 m,平均相对偏差在20％以内,整体模拟效果良好.为了便于分析模拟结果,选取了2009年6月20日23时、21日08时、21日14时3个典型时刻的模拟结果进行对比分析.其结果表明:(1)随着台风中心的北移,研究区域内风浪逐渐占据绝对主导地位,风与波浪的变化趋势更加吻合.21日08时泉州湾内最大风速约15 m/s,湾口的最大波高为2.8m;至21日14时台风中心逼近泉州湾口,湾内最大风速增大至20 m/s,湾口最大波高迅速增至4.4m,模拟结果与实际情况相吻合.(2)在台风中心逼近泉州祥芝中心渔港时港区受台风影响最大,但受该渔港东侧防波堤的阻挡,波浪较难进入避风水域,仅从堤头绕射进入港内,港内波高约为0.2m,港外最大波高达到2.3 m,受到东向浪侵袭时港内避风条件较好.上述结果表明,SWAN波浪模型和缓坡方程联合应用在台湾海峡及其邻近海域的台风浪数值计算中具有良好的适应性.