潮沟系统水沙输运研究——以长江口崇明东滩为例

本研究以崇明东滩2015年4月实测潮间带水沙数据为基础,分析了潮沟、盐沼及光滩的水沙特征,重点研究了潮沟系统及邻近潮滩潮周期内悬沙通量情况。结果表明:（1）潮沟表层沉积物比潮滩细,二者平均中值粒径分别为21.7 μm和33.0 μm,悬沙粒径由海向陆逐渐变小;（2）大、小潮沟潮周期内潮流均以往复流为主,垂向平均流速分别为15.4 cm/s和34.6 cm/s;盐沼界和光滩则以旋转流为主,平均流速分别为11.3 cm/s和28.9 cm/s;（3）潮沟中的高悬沙浓度出现在涨潮初期,最大可达7.5 kg/m3,而潮滩高悬沙浓度则出现在潮落潮中期和高水位时刻;大、小潮沟和盐沼界站涨潮阶段平均悬沙浓度大于落潮阶段,光滩站则相反。潮沟悬沙主要来自邻近水域,而潮滩悬沙则与滩面表层沉积物密切相关;（4）潮沟在潮周期内净输沙方向均指向滩地,大潮沟潮周期单宽净输沙量可达4.0 t/m;盐沼界处垂直岸线和沿岸输沙强度相近,净输沙由海向陆,潮周期离岸输沙强度为1.0 t/m;光滩沿岸输沙强度远大于垂直岸线输沙,光滩净输沙由陆向海。研究揭示了潮间带潮沟系统的强供沙能力以及研究区域光滩冲蚀,盐沼植被带淤积的动力地貌过程。     

Short-term (≤2 yrs) estuarine mudflat and saltmarsh sedimentation: High-resolution data from ultrasonic altimetery, rod surface-elevation table, and filter traps

Rates of short-term (up to 2 years) bed elevation change and sedimentation from mudflats to salt marshes were measured in a rapidly infilling macrotidal estuary using an original combination of three high-resolution techniques: an ultrasonic altimeter, the Rod Surface-Elevation Table (RSET) method, and filter traps. The Authie estuary is located on a straight, sand-rich coast and is undergoing rapid infill under the influence of flood-dominant tides reinforced by wave action. The estuarine sediment suite consists of both mud and sand derived from the sea, of sand derived from storm wave erosion of dunes lining the north bank of the estuary, and, to a much smaller extent, of mud from the river catchment. Bed elevation change and sedimentation rates show an expected increase with the duration of tidal flooding (hydroperiod) in both space and time. The estuarine bed sediment suite changes from sandy at the mouth to muddy within the low-energy inner estuary, where mudflats are rapidly accreting, paving the way for the formation of increasingly denser and mature salt marshes from the high-sedimentation pioneer zone to the upper marsh where annual sedimentation is very low. Recorded variability in rates of bed elevation change and sedimentation reflect the influence of estuarine macro-scale and local sediment transport and depositional processes in a macrotidal context dominated by high inputs of allochthonous sediments.     

Numerical study on salinity stratification in the Pamlico River Estuary

The variations of current circulation, salt intrusion, and vertical stratification under different river flow and wind conditions in the Pamlico River Estuary (PRE) were investigated in this paper using a three-dimensional numerical model. The model was calibrated and verified against water level variation, temperature, and salinity variations during 2003 and 2001, respectively. Eight sensitivity tests were conducted with different river flow and wind conditions specified in the model. Model results show that salinity intruded further upstream under scenarios with low flow, downriver local wind, and remote-wind-caused water level set-up conditions. In contrast, the responses of salinity stratification to different environmental forcing functions were different in different portions of the estuary. Salinity stratification was enhanced under high flow condition at the lower part of the estuary, under upriver wind near the river mouth, under downriver wind at the upstream to middle portion of the estuary, and under remote-wind-caused water level set-up condition at the majority of the estuary except near the river mouth. Model results also show that across-channel wind tended to reduce salt intrusion and salinity stratification in the PRE through increased vertical mixing.     

长江口盐沼滩面演化的沉积和地球化学特征

选择长江口盐沼典型高程部位(高潮滩上部、中潮滩下部、光滩)柱状样,采用小间隔(1 cm)取样,通过粒度、颗粒有机碳(POC)含量与碳稳定同位素组成(δ13C)分析,研究盐沼滩面发育的沉积和地球化学特征,结果表明,盐沼沉积物的粒度参数、POC含量与δ13C值随深度变化明显;在盐沼典型高程部位沉积物的颗粒组成与地球化学特征差异显著,有明显的滩面趋势,这与滩面的规律性演化密切相关.柱样有限深度内有明显的相对淤积期与冲刷作用相对较强时期的交替,表明长江口盐沼滩面发育过程并不是线性的.盐沼沉积物黏粒含量对POC含量和δ13C值的垂向变化及滩面趋势影响显著,表明流域来水来沙明显制约河口盐沼的发育.对于沉积动力环境复杂、冲淤过程频繁、厚度为毫米级的砂质纹层和泥质纹层发育的河口盐沼,在沉积和地球化学研究中采用小间隔取样的效果明显,有助于揭示盐沼发育过程的更多信息,为年际滩面冲淤演变研究提供新途径.     

Turbidity and sediment transport in a muddy sub-estuary

Sub-estuaries, i.e. tidal creeks and also larger estuaries that branch off the stem of their main estuary, are commonplace in many estuarine systems. Their physical behaviour is affected not only by tributary inflows, winds and tides, but also by the properties and behaviour of their main estuary. Measurements extending over more than an annual cycle are presented for the Tavy Estuary, a sub-estuary of the Tamar Estuary, UK. Generally, waves are small in the Tavy because of the short wind fetch. A several-hour period of up-estuary winds, blowing at speeds of between 7 and 10 m s⁻¹, generates waves with significant wave heights of 0.25 m and a wave periodicity of 1.7 s that are capable of eroding the bed over the shallow, ca. 1.5 m-deep mudflats. Waves also influence sedimentation within and near salt marsh areas. An estuarine turbidity maximum (ETM) occurs in the Tavy's main channel, close to the limit of salt intrusion at HW. Suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentrations typically are less than 40 mg l⁻¹ at HW, although concentrations can exceed 80 mg l⁻¹ when tides and winds are strong. Flood-tide SPM inputs to the Tavy from the Tamar are greater during high runoff events in the River Tamar and also at spring tides, when the Tamar has a high-concentration ETM. Higher SPM concentrations are experienced on the mudflats following initial inundation. Without wave resuspension, this is followed by a rapid decrease in SPM for most of the tide, indicating that the mudflats are depositional at those times. SPM concentrations on the mudflats again increase sharply prior to uncovering. Peak ebb tidal speeds at 0.15 m above the mudflat bed can exceed 0.26 m s⁻¹ at spring tides and 0.4 m s⁻¹ following high runoff events, which are sufficient to cause resuspension. Time-series measurements of sediment bed levels show strong seasonal variability. Higher and lower freshwater flows are associated with estimated, monthly-mean sediment transport that is directed out of, or into, the upper sub-estuary, respectively. Seasonal sediment transfers between the estuary and its sub-estuary are discussed.     

钱塘江河口潮波特性变化及原因剖析

为掌握钱塘江河口潮波特性的响应机制,采用小波分析法研究了该河口 6 个潮位长期观测站的年平均高、低潮位及年平均涨潮历时等时间序列的变化特征,结合该河口实施的治江缩窄工程及径流周期性变化,探讨了该河口潮波特性时空变 化的因果关系。结果表明：1953—2017 年,钱塘江河口呈现出高潮位显著抬升、涨潮历时缩短,低潮位在河口上段略有抬高、中段大幅抬升、下段变化不大的趋势;受治江缩窄工程进展、位置以及径流周期性变化等影响,各站潮波特性的变化在时间上存在差异;钱塘江河口的治江缩窄工程加剧了河口下段的潮波变形和潮波反射,增强了河口上、中段的河流特性,导致高潮位抬升、涨潮历时缩短,是造成潮波特性变化的主要原因;径流直接影响河口上、中段的潮位和潮流,此外,还通过流速变化改变河床地形而间接影响潮波特性。     

Preliminary study of the retention mechanism of planktonic copepods in the Jiulong Estuary in China

The horizontal and vertical distribution patterns of five planktonic copepods,Calanus sinicus, Acartia pacifica, Tortanus derjugini, Acartiella sinensis and Pseudodiaptomus poplesia, predominant in the Jiulong Estuary, were investigated from May 2003 to April 2004. The results showed that the distribution of these copepods was related to the tidal period but that each species had its own specific pattern. C. sinicus showed no tidal vertical migration behavior and was thought to be a non-resident species in this estuary. Among Acartia pacifica,T. derjugini,Acartiella sinensis, more individuals occurred in the surface than in the bottom waters during flood tide, and the pattern was reversed during ebb tide. The epibenthic copepod P. poplesia usually remained in the bottom waters in the upstream part of the estuary, but it displayed strong tidally-oriented vertical migration in the middle reaches of the estuary.Taking into account the hydrographic characteristics of the Jiulong Estuary,it was hypothesized that the planktonic copepods in this estuary had more or less adopted the mechanism of vertically migrating to the surface waters during flood tide in order to make use of the inflowing tide, and then sinking to the bottom during ebb tide to avoid being carried out of the estuary by net outflow.     

长江口盐沼湿地底栖微藻的分布特征及其对有机质产出的贡献

2006年6月(夏季)和12月(冬季)分别对长江口九段沙湿地潮滩底栖微藻的分布状况进行了调查,估算了湿地内各主要初级生产者的生产力并进行了比较。结果显示分布于该盐沼湿地的底栖微藻在光照条件下主要聚集于沉积物表层,形成其生物量随深度增加而迅速减少的垂直分布模式,并随滩面植被盖度从大到小的顺序呈现为:光滩、藨草区、米草区≈芦苇区的水平分布特征。九段沙湿地中单位面积上底栖微藻的生物量远高于上覆水中浮游植物的生物量,其单位面积生产力也显著高于后者,表明底栖微藻在源自单胞藻的湿地有机产出中占有主导地位。九段沙湿地中底栖微藻总生物量远低于地表维管植物,其生物量仅占潮滩初级生产者总生物量的约0.41%,所产出的有机质却达到潮滩总初级生产力约16.53%,意味着这种高营养、易摄取的有机产出有能力成为维持该湿地生态系统的重要食物来源之一。     

Temporal and spatial variability of sea level and volume flux in the Murderkill Estuary

The instantaneous sea level determined at two sites in the Murderkill Estuary, a tributary of Delaware Bay, results from the superposition of temporal variability operating over different time and spatial scales. Over the relatively short tidal time scales, the semidiurnal tides that represent the dominant tidal constituents in lower Delaware Bay show a modest increase in tidal amplitudes from the bay mouth (Lewes, Delaware), up to Bowers Beach (the mouth of the Murderkill Estuary). However, as the tides propagate into the Murderkill Estuary, the semidiurnal constituents undergo heavy attenuation, resulting in a 48% reduction in tidal amplitude from Bowers to Frederica (approximately the extent of saline intrusion). The diurnal tide, on the other hand, experiences only a 25% reduction in amplitude. The limited tidal asymmetry that is observed may be a result of interaction between flows in the tidal channel and the adjacent salt marsh. At longer time scales, the subtidal sea level experiences no attenuation. The Murderkill Estuary thus behaves like a low pass filter to preferentially damp out high frequency sea level forcing from lower Delaware Bay. The subtidal volume flux in the Murderkill is highly coherent with the time rate of change of sea level, indicating that the Murderkill basically co-oscillates with Delaware Bay in a standing wave fashion over the subtidal time scale. This remote coupling controls more than 90% of the variance in subtidal sea level in the estuary. The surface slopes in the lower bay and the Murderkill Estuary are closely correlated with winds along the orientation of the two waterways, consistent with the effect of local wind on subtidal sea level.     

我国南方强潮海岸红树植物对潮流的调制作用

至今,关于红树植物对潮流的调制作用的研究非常有限,尤其是红树植物对垂向流速剖面的影响还不清楚。本研究利用自主研发的自动升降架于大潮期间对浙江南部乐清湾西门岛秋茄种植区的红树林滩进行垂向多点观测。结果表明,在所研究的红树林内,整个垂向剖面的流速普遍较低。树干和冠层引起的拖曳力在垂向上的增加,使得红树林内垂向流速剖面呈现"流速随距底高度增大而减小"的规律。此外,湍流能量密度在垂向上也呈现出与红树植物垂向结构相对应的变化。与光滩（半对数）和盐沼（近"J"形）内流速的垂向结构相比,红树植物以一种不同的方式对垂向流速剖面产生重要影响。     

Spatial patterns of ichthyoplankton assemblages in the Río de la Plata Estuary (Argentina–Uruguay)

Two oceanographic surveys were conducted across the salinity gradient of the Río de la Plata Estuary during austral late spring and summer. Ichthyoplankton was dominated by families Sciaenidae, Clupeidae, Engraulidae, Cynoglossidae and Carangidae. The distribution of larval fish assemblages was strongly associated to the salinity structure. Oceanographic conditions were characterized by a large salt wedge (180 km long and a vertical salinity gradient up to 10 units per meter). During both sampling periods each ichthyoplankton assemblage was related to the same region of the salt wedge: the fresh water environment, the bottom salinity front, the mixohaline zone and the outer portion (surface salinity front) of the estuary. Larval assemblages were not related to the thermal structure. Reproductive activity of fishes inside the Río de la Plata Estuary is relatively common (60% of the teleosts sampled use this estuary as a nursery ground). Moreover, the high incidence of pelagic eggs spawners (75% of the species present in the ichthyoplankton) in the Río de la Plata contrasts to the vast majority of estuaries, where this reproductive strategy is poorly represented. Estuarine dynamics plays a dominant role in allowing this reproductive style in this estuary. Spring–summer wind pattern should generate a retentive environment which could minimize advective losses of eggs and larvae to the adjacent ocean.     

径流和风对涌潮影响的数值模拟

由于实际江道中地形和江道轮廓等复杂性,难以分析涌潮演变规律。以钱塘江河口为基础,建立了概化河口的水动力数学模型,将复杂问题简单化,通过数学模型计算分析了径流和风况对潮差、涨潮历时、涌潮高度和涌潮传播速度的影响。结果表明,不同河段存在涌潮高度最大值的相应临界流量,越往下游,临界径流量越大;涌潮高度随风向变化规律是"逆风"<"无风"<"顺风";顺风条件下,风速越大,涌潮高度越大。     

Morphology, hydrography and sediment dynamics in a mangrove estuary: The Konkoure Estuary, Guinea

The Konkouré Estuary in the Republic of Guinea is a poorly understood atypical mangrove system. Sediment dynamics in tropical estuaries are controlled by a combination of processes including river discharge, morphology, salinity, erosion and deposition processes, the settling of mud, physico-chemical processes and mangrove swamps. Here we present a consistent set of data aimed at characterising the estuary and thus, increasing our understanding of tropical systems, as well as studying the impact of human intervention in the region. Water elevations, current measurements, salinity, suspended sediment concentrations, bathymetry and sediment cover are presented following a 3 year survey of the Konkouré Estuary. Here we provide conclusive evidence that the Lower Konkouré is a shallow, funnel shaped, mesotidal, mangrove-fringed, tide dominated estuary, well mixed during low river discharge. The estuary becomes stratified during high river flows and spring tides whereas a salt wedge appears during neap tides. The Konkouré Estuary has been described as hypersynchronous, and has three terminal outlets, two of which are landward-directed, attesting to a tidal pumping effect, while the third one is seaward-directed, and is controlled by the mangrove. The suspended matter is transported by the tidal effect within the middle estuary and is therefore trapped in the Turbidity Maximum zone (TMZ). The location of the TMZ is river-controlled and is correlated with residual currents but not with salinity front. A dam, constructed 130 km upstream, impacts on the hydrodynamics, and reduces the salinity intrusion by about 25%. It causes an increased low river discharge whereas its efficiency over high river flows is unclear.     

椒江河口高混浊水混合过程分析

根据１９９１年洪季的实测资料分析了高度浑浊的椒江河口的混合过程,并探讨了水动力学和沉积动力学因素对河口混合的重要作用,调查研究表明,椒江河口最大浑浊带下的高浑浊水－浮泥层厚达１ｍ,高浑浊水－浮泥层与上覆水之间是泥跃层,泥跃层与高混浊水－浮泥层对水体稳定的作用比同期观测到的盐跃层大１７倍以上,当高浑浊水－浮泥层被侵蚀时,在高浑浊水－浮泥层中的低盐水体又增加了水体的垂向混合能力。     

珠江磨刀门河口潮汐动力变化对人类活动的响应

磨刀门河口是珠江流域西江的主干入海口, 20世纪80年代以来受到网河区无序采砂和磨刀门整治工程的双重影响, 潮汐动力必然发生相应的调整。本文基于多年的水文资料, 结合统计分析、调和分析和数值模拟的方法, 对近五十年以来磨刀门河口的潮汐动力变化过程及其对人类活动的响应进行研究。结果表明, 20世纪80年代以前, 磨刀门河口总体上呈现出高、低潮位缓慢上升、潮差逐渐减小的趋势, 潮汐动力变化呈现出径流优势型入海口门水道向海延展的自然演变趋势; 20世纪80年代以来, 网河区无序采砂使水位下降、诱使潮汐动力增强, 磨刀门整治工程使水位上升、潮汐动力减弱, 由于河口不同段受到人类活动以及外海潮汐多年变化和海平面上升的干扰程度不同, 其潮汐动力变化呈现出不同特征。近口段受网河区无序采砂影响较大, 水位下降, 潮汐动力增强; 河口段受两种人类活动的双重影响, 水位上升, 在整治工程期间(1983—1993)潮汐动力减弱, 在整治工程后(1993—2003)受网河区无序采砂的影响潮汐动力增强; 口外海滨段受外海潮汐多年变化和全球海平面上升以及整治工程的共同作用, 水位上升, 潮汐动力减弱     

The principal factors contributing to the flux of salt in a narrow, partially stratified estuary

Observations of the velocity and salinity structure of the Tees estuary were made at eight stations along the estuary axis between Victoria Bridge and the sea during the summer of 1975. The measurements were made on ten separate tidal periods covering neap and spring tides.The data were collected over a period of relatively low freshwater flows and the residual current was found to have a strong dependence on the Stokes drift. At the upstream stations, the residuals were more than an order of magnitude greater than the currents anticipated from the freshwater discharge. Although the mean stratification decreased as the tidal range increased, the vertical circulation was stronger on spring tides than on neaps. Vertical variations in the amplitude and phase of the tidal current results in a current which strengthens the vertical circulation. However, this effect only made a relatively small contribution to the observed vertical circulation.The relative contribution of the individual salt flux terms to the net upstream transport of salt varies along the estuary. As the estuary narrows, the contribution by the oscillatory terms dominates that from the shear in the steady state flow. Of these oscillatory terms, the correlation of velocity and salinity fluctuations plays a key rôle in the salt transport. The depth mean values make a greater contribution than deviations from the depth mean and the flux due to phase variations over depth is smaller than either of these. Since the Stokes drift is compensated by a down-stream steady state flow, it does not contribute to the tidal mean transport of salt.At the seaward end of the estuary, the salt fluxes due to the steady state vertical shear and the convariance of the tidal fluctuations act in a complementary way to counter the seaward transport of salt by the freshwater flow. With the possible exceptions of the wide or narrow reaches of the Tees, the longitudinal fluxes of salt due to transverse variations in velocity, salinity and depth and turbulent fluctuations are of secondary importance as contributors to the estuary salt budget.On both neap and spring tides, the computed total salt transports at the Newport and Victoria bridges did not match the values required for a salt balance with the corresponding freshwater flows. These fluxes were probably the cause of the observed downstream displacement of the tidal mean salinity distribution between neap and spring tides.     

伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝特征及影响因素研究

泥沙絮凝对河口细颗粒泥沙运动过程起着极其重要的作用。本文通过LISST-100激光粒度仪等仪器实测伶仃洋河口2013年洪季悬浮泥沙絮凝体现场粒径及水动力、泥沙条件,结合实验室悬沙粒径分析,研究大小潮期间伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝特征,探讨紊动剪切强度、含沙量、盐度分层及波浪等因素对伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝的影响。结果表明:伶仃洋河口水体中现场粒径平均值为148.53 μm,大于实验室悬沙分散粒径36.74 μm,河口絮凝现象明显;沉速与有效密度、粒径呈正相关,絮团平均有效密度为153.49 kg/m3,平均沉速达1.13 mm/s;小潮时絮团平均粒径大于大潮,垂向上表底层絮团粒径小、中层大,中底层絮团沉速大于表层。伶仃洋河口水动力、泥沙条件是影响其泥沙絮凝的重要因素,低剪切强度（小于5 s-1）、低含沙量（小于50 mg/L）及高体积浓度有利于细颗粒泥沙之间的相互碰撞,促进絮凝作用;当剪切强度与颗粒间碰撞强度高于絮团所能承受的强度时,絮团易破碎分解成小絮团或更细的泥沙颗粒;伶仃洋河口盐度层化引起的泥沙捕获现象增大中层泥沙体积浓度,有利于中层絮凝体的发育;观测期相对较大的波浪增强水体紊动,增大了水体细颗粒泥沙的碰撞几率,表层絮团粒径随波高峰值的出现而增大。     

Facies and architecture of an estuarine tidal bar (the Trompeloup bar, Gironde Estuary, SW France)

This study describes the sedimentary facies and internal architecture of a modern estuarine tidal bar present in the bay-head delta of a wave- and tide-dominated estuary, the Gironde Estuary, in southwest France. Based on 51 cores (2 to 5 m long), this work demonstrates that such bars are composite sedimentary bodies made up of individual sigmoidal sand units isolated from one another by thick muddy layers. The bar appeared in the study area around 1874. Since then, its evolution has been characterized by phases of rapid downstream bar migration alternating with periods of bar abandonment. During the periods of active bar progradation, which commonly last between 10 and 20 years, the bar progrades up to 7 km seaward and forms a narrow (200–800 m wide) sand ridge up to 6 m thick. During abandonment phases which also last around 10–20 years, the bar is starved of sand and a mud layer (1 to 3 m thick) is deposited. The vertical succession formed by the seaward progradation of the tidal bar records these alternating phases of growth and abandonment. A typical vertical succession in the bar system is 8 m thick and comprises several superimposed, upward-coarsening units of cross-stratified sand, deposited during phases of seaward progradation, separated by a thick layer of thinner-bedded mud and sand laminae deposited during phases of bar abandonment. When a tidal bar builds up to the supratidal zone, marshes accumulate and the bar becomes a permanent island in the estuary. The large-scale architecture of the bar is thus made of an alternation of potential sandy reservoir units and muddy internal seals. The reservoir units are characterized by a sigmoidal shape. The muddy layer, which is deposited between the two sigmoidal units, is a thick, continuous potential internal seal. This complex internal architecture is due to the fact that there is a considerable amount of mud present in the bay-head delta of the Gironde Estuary. It is thought to be representative of the architecture of tidal bars in the inner part of wave- and tide-dominated estuaries.     

长江口潮间带沉积对台风过程的响应

位于陆海交汇区的河口潮滩对台风作用的响应极为敏感.台风大浪极可能构成河口潮滩沉积过程的快速变化,进而不利于潮滩保护、开发及利用.基于此,本文利用200509号"麦莎"台风作用前后长江口南汇潮滩采集的沉积物样品及水文资料,探讨台风高能事件作用下河口潮滩动力沉积过程及其主控因素.结果表明长江口潮间带不同区域沉积作用对于"麦...     

Hydrodynamic forcing on salt-marsh development: Distinguishing the relative importance of waves and tidal flows

To unravel the relation between hydrodynamic forcing and the dynamics of the tidal flat–salt-marsh ecosystem, we compared hydrodynamic forcing in terms of proxies relevant to bed sediment motion for four tidal flat–salt-marsh ecosystems that were contrasting in terms of wind exposure (sheltered vs. exposed) and lateral development (shrinking vs. expanding). Wave and current field measurements on these four contrasting tidal flat and salt-marsh ecosystems indicated that the hydrodynamic forcing on the bottom sediment (bed shear stress) was strongly influenced by wind-generated waves, more so than by tidal- or wind-drive currents. The measurements further showed that the hydrodynamic forcing decreased considerably landward of the marsh cliff, highlighting a transition from vigorous (tidal flat and pioneer zone) to sluggish (mature marsh) fluid forcing. Spatial wave modeling using measured wind, revealed that the time-integrated wave forcing on the intertidal mudflat in front of the marsh (i.e., the potential bed sediment pickup) was a factor two higher for salt marshes that are laterally shrinking than for laterally expanding marshes, regardless of whether these marshes were exposed to or sheltered from the wind. The same result could not be obtained from a straightforward wind speed and fetch length approach for estimating wave forcing. This confirmed that wave force estimates required spatial modeling to be consistent with the sites trends of shrinking or expanding marshes and wind exposure is not enough to characterize the wave forcing at these sites.