养马岛西南海域泥沙运移及近岸演化态势研究

养马岛西南海域近30年来发生普遍淤积,海域海底淤积速率平均为1．5cm／a,局部可达10cm／a。鱼鸟河以东岸线向海推进速度约1～6m／a。海域表层沉积物有整体细化的趋势,该海域的快速淤积与海岛的屏蔽消能以及海堤的拦截作用有关。海底淤积对取水口的设计方案有明显影响,分析了工程海域动力、泥沙、海岸及近岸演化态势,并对取水口设计方案进行了论证。     

Nearshore sticky waters

Wind- and current-driven flotsam, oil spills, pollutants, and nutrients, approaching the nearshore will frequently appear to slow down/park just beyond the break zone, where waves break. Moreover, the portion of these tracers that beach will do so only after a long time. Explaining why these tracers park and at what rate they reach the shore has important implications on a variety of different nearshore environmental issues, including the determination of what subscale processes are essential in computer models for the simulation of pollutant transport in the nearshore. Using a simple model we provide an explanation for the underlying mechanism responsible for the parking of tracers, not subject to inertial effects, the role played by the bottom topography, and the non-uniform dispersion which leads, in some circumstances, to the eventual landing of all or a portion of the tracers. We refer to the parking phenomenon in this environment as nearshore sticky waters.     

Sedimentary sulfides in the Nearshore Georgia Bight

Sedimentary sulfide, iron, and organic matter were measured in neritic sediments from the Georgia Bight. The two measured depth integrated sulfur pools, FeS + HS⁻ and FeS₂, tended to decrease with increasing distance from shore out to 33 km. Total iron and organic matter were strongly correlated and both tended to decrease with increasing distance from shore. Sediment depth profiles of organic matter/reduced sulfur suggest relatively constant rates of sulfate reduction over the top 40 cm of sediment. Differences in within-station variance indicated regions of lower and higher spatial/temporal heterogeneity, that may be related to tidally driven circulation patterns. No seasonal cycles were evident in sedimentary sulfides.     

近岸海浪模式在中国东海台风浪模拟中的应用--数值模拟及物理过程研究

较为详细地介绍了基于能量平衡方程的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN（Simulation Waves Nearshore）及其包含的物理过程（风生浪、底摩擦、白浪耗散、深度诱导波破碎、非线性波－波相作用等），并利用该模式对影响杭州湾－长江口沿岸海域的一次台风浪过程进行了模拟研究：模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型嵌入对应台风特征等压线，并对相应时段的NCAR／NCEPT资料、单站资料进行同化后提供；利用自嵌套的方式提供波谱边界条件；模式模拟的结果与实际海浪观测资料相符较好，在此基础上，研究了底摩擦、深度诱导波破碎、三波相互作用等物理过程联合对近岸台风浪的影响，初步认识了它们在近岸台风浪生成、传播过程中的重要作用。     

Scour and Burial Mechanics of Objects in the Nearshore

A process-based, numerical, hydrodynamic vortex lattice mine scour/burial model (VORTEX) is presented that simulates scour and burial of objects of arbitrary shape resting on a granular bed in the nearshore. There are two domains in the model formulation: a far-field where burial and exposure occur due to changes in the elevation of the seabed and a near-field involving scour and transport of sediment by the vortices shed from the object. The far-field burial mechanisms are based on changes in the equilibrium bottom profiles in response to seasonal changes in wave climate and accretion/erosion waves spawned by fluxes of sediment into the littoral cell. The near-field domain consists of one grid cell extracted from the far-field that is subdivided into a rectangular lattice of panels having sufficient resolution to define the shape of the object. The vortex field induced by the object is constructed from an assemblage of horseshoe vortices excited by local pressure gradients and shear over the lattice panels. The horseshoe vortices of each lattice panel release a pair of vortex filaments into the neighboring flow. The induced velocity of these trailing vortex filaments causes scour of the neighboring seabed and induces hydrodynamic forces on the object. Scour around the object and its subsequent movement into the scour depression contribute to burial, while far-field changes in local sand level may increase burial depth or expose the object. Scour and burial predictions of mines and mine-like objects were tested in field experiments conducted in the nearshore waters off the Pacific coast of California at Scripps Pier, the Gulf Coast of Florida at Indian Rocks, and off the Atlantic coast of Massachusetts at Martha's Vineyard. Model predictions of mine scour and burial are in reasonable agreement with field measurements and underwater photographs.     

A Study on the Spectral Form of Nearshore Water Waves

- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data.     

近海视频测量与应用

近海视频测量技术是一种基于视频传感器实时采集近海图像,再运用图像处理和信息分析,获取近海环境过程和特征参数的观测技术。文中回顾近海视频测量与应用的发展概况,介绍了测量系统的构成,讨论了测量波浪、海流和近岸过程等参数与算法的应用,建议在我国开展研究应用,促进我国海洋观测技术的发展和进步。     

Nearshore Wave Field Analysis Using SAR Images

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Nearshore suspended sediment variations,central Surinam coast

Nearshore suspended sediment concentration along the muddy Surinam coast is highly variable; maximum values are many times greater than on other muddy coasts. Water samples taken at four field stations during various stages of the tide range in concentration from 15 to 3,700 mg/l near the surface and from 100 to 30,000 mg/l near the bottom. Highest overall concentrations and greatest variability in concentration occur in water over large banks of fluid mud (thixotropic gel) that extend 2–3 km offshore and 5–10 km along-shore. On both the intertidal and subaqueous portions of these mudbanks highest concentrations are found at low tide. Results provide evidence that an exchange between fluid mud and suspended sediment takes place during each tidal cycle.     

胶州湾近岸海域污染物削减的效益分析

首先计算了2008年化学需氧量（COD）和氨氮（NH3-N）对胶州湾各类海洋功能类别造成的经济损失,其次利用COD和氨氮总量削减成本模型计算不同削减情况下的投入成本,最后将不同削减量下获得的经济效益与相应的投入成本进行对比,得出污染物削减后胶州湾的效益为：削减3%为3.351亿元,削减5%为5.562亿元,削减8%为10.745亿元,削减10%为12.764亿元。通过对胶州湾削减污染物的经济损益情况计算,以期为胶州湾环境污染治理预算和政府决策提供支持。     

A Boussinesq Equation-Based Model for Nearshore Wave Breaking

Based on the wave breaking model by Li and Wang (1999), this work is to apply Dally‘ s analytical solution to the wave-height decay instead of the empirical and semi-empirical hypotheses of wave-height distribution within the wave breaking zone. This enhances the applicability of the model. Computational results of shoaling, location of wave breaking, wave-height decay after wave breaking, set-down and set-up for incident regular waves are shown to have good agreement with experimental and field data.     

长重力波运动与近岸过程研究综述

简要介绍了长重力波的概念和作用,概述了近岸长重力波的运动形式、类型、分布和波能变化,分析了近岸长重力波与泥沙运动、海岸侵蚀、近岸环流系统、海滩碎波带地貌形态和潮汐等的关系,提出了进一步研究的几点建议。     

海州湾近岸物质输运规律研究

基于干湿网格的三维河口-陆架-海洋( ECOM3D) 模式,并结合物质平流-扩散方程,模拟了海州湾近岸海域潮流场和污染物输运浓度场.分析了在不同风向情况下海州湾近岸海域拉格朗日潮余流的分布特征,并且分析了污染物在不同风向下时空分布特征.分析结果表明:在WSW向风作用下,污染物有利于向外海扩散;在E向风和ESE向风作用下,污染物向近岸堆积.     

连云港近岸海域沉积物特征与沉积环境分析

用Flemming三角图示法和210Pb测年法对连云港近岸海域的表层沉积物和柱状样进行了分析,研究了表层沉积物的粒度参数特征以及近岸沉积速率的变化。结果表明:连云港近岸海域表层沉积物主要为粘土质粉砂,粒度参数点落在Flemming三角图的Ⅲ区,表明沉积动力环境相对较弱。1986年西大堤建设后,近岸海域的沉积速率明显增加。西墅附近的沉积速率由0.56 cm/a增加到1.15 cm/a;港湾内侧快速沉积,过剩210Pb放射性活度未能测出,表明沉积时间短暂。沉积速率的这种变化反映了沉积动力环境的减弱。     

Hydrodynamics of a headland-bay beach—Nearshore current circulation

This paper is devoted to the analysis of the hydrodynamic equilibrium of a headland or semi-elliptic shaped beach. It is shown that the state of equilibrium depends not only on the in- and outgoing sediment but also on the accommodation of the sediment within the embayment. The shape and relative depth of shoals, or settling zones, also directly affect the wave and current patterns inside the bay, within which the resultant breaker line almost stops wave-induced currents at some locations, whereas the magnitude of current increases at other locations. Several numerical tests are analytically conducted in a semi-elliptic beach with two symmetrical shoals of varying relative depth where circulatory current systems are detected and analyzed. Numerical modelling for wave climate and wave-induced current estimation is also presented in order to corroborate results and provide a tool for complicated and/or physical domains. The results lead to a redefinition of the concept of equilibrium for headland-bay beaches taking into account not only the net sediment transport but also the role of the formation and disappearance of settling zones, as well as sediment interchanges between the beach and shoals.     

辐射应力理论在近岸区的应用及其研究进展

概述了波浪辐射应力理论,介绍了波浪辐射应力理论在海洋流体动力学尤其是近岸区的应用,重点分析了该理论在研究近岸波生流、波流相互作用等问题中的应用,总结了波浪辐射应力的研究进展,对辐射应力研究提出了建议。     

Nearshore surface current patterns in the Tsitsikamma National Park,South Africa

The pattern of surface currents in the Tsitsikamma National Park, South Africa, was studied with holey-sock drogues released in batches of up to four at a time, from 1996 and 1998. Drogues were left to drift for either 6 or 24 h, while recording position and time. The majority of drogue movements were longshore, either eastward or westward; they usually travelled with similar direction and velocity. In most instances, westward movements were slightly offshore and were sometimes associated with a rise in the thermocline. Eastward movements were, on average, slightly slower, with an onshore component, sometimes associated with a lowering of the thermocline. The remaining trials showed some variability between drogues and were characterized by reduced velocity and unstable direction, indicating either the presence of horizontal turbulence or a current reversal. Current and wind were poorly correlated. Current directions were sustained for at least four days, indicating that short-lived ichthyoplankton, originating in the 70-km park, may be dispersed beyond its boundaries.     

海州湾南部近岸现代沉积速率及其沉积通量

对海州湾南部近岸3个柱状岩芯进行了210Pb的测定,绘制了岩芯中210Pb的垂直分布图。结果表明,柱-1岩芯表现为2个明显的沉积阶段,1-12 cm平均沉积速率为0.51 cm/a,12-57 cm的为0.18 cm/a,沉积通量分别为0.69和0.24 g/（cm^2·a）;柱-2岩芯平均沉积速率为0.64 cm/a,沉积通量为0.68 g/（cm^2·a）;柱-3岩芯平均沉积速率为0.67 cm/a,沉积通量为0.76 g/（cm^2·a）。沉积速率从北往南逐渐增大。造成这种空间分布规律的主要因素是沉积环境和物质来源,其次可能同海域位置、沉积物组分特征和海底地形有关。