Along channel flow and sediment dynamics at North Inlet, South Carolina

In May of 2005, an observational program was carried out to investigate the along channel hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport patterns at North Inlet, South Carolina. Along channel variability, which is important in establishing sediment transport pathways, has not been characterized for this system. Measurements of water column currents, salinity, bed sediment, suspended sediment concentration, and particle size distribution were obtained over a complete tidal cycle along the thalweg of the inlet entrance. Along channel currents, shear stress and bed sediment distributions vary significantly in space and time along a 3 km section bracketing the inlet throat. Most of the variability is consistent with geomorphic controls such as bed elevation variability and channel width. The highest velocities, shear stresses, suspended sediment concentration and bed sediment grain size are observed in the narrowest section of the inlet throat. Magnitudes systematically decrease along the channel toward the marsh as changes in channel geometry and branching reduces flow energy. Due to tidal asymmetry, the ebb phase contains significantly higher currents and associated sediment transport. Over the complete tidal cycle, depth integrated transport is directed towards the marsh landward of the intersection of Town and Debidue Creek. In contrast, net transport is out of the inlet seaward of this intersection. Sediment grain size distributions show 35% more material less than 63 μm on flood, suggesting net landward transport of fines.     

长江河口北槽水沙过程对航道整治工程的响应

北槽大型航道整治工程确定了南北槽分汊口分流界线, 阻碍了北槽和邻近滩槽的水沙自由交换过程, 使北槽水沙动力过程发生调整。基于工程前后北槽主槽纵向同步水沙观测数据的统计分析表明:入口段落潮优势显著减弱;上段枯季时落潮优势显著减弱, 而洪季时落潮优势有所增强;中段(弯曲段拐点附近)落潮优势略有减弱;下段落潮优势明显加强。北槽主槽水沙纵向输移机制分析表明:欧拉余流、潮泵作用、斯托克斯效应和垂向环流为悬沙输移的主要驱动力, 其中欧拉余流输沙指向海, 斯托克斯输沙和垂向环流输沙指向陆, 而潮泵输沙随着季节而变化。洪季, 欧拉余流输沙和潮泵输沙在工程前后的变化使大潮期河床冲淤由中段和下段普遍落淤转化为中上段集中落淤。枯季, 工程前后稳定的潮流辐散输沙作用使大潮期河床以冲刷为主, 但工程后在入口段和上段潮泵的向上游输沙占优势, 使悬沙在入口段落淤。     

Spatial variation of the intertidal sediments and macrozoo-benthic assemblages along Eighty-mile Beach, North-western Australia

The extensive intertidal flats along Eighty-mile Beach in North-western Australia appear to be monotonous and homogeneous and seem ideally suited to study tidal zonation in macrozoo-benthic communities and their possible correlates with characteristics of the sediment. In October 1999, we sampled benthic invertebrates and sediments at a total of 895 sampling stations distributed over six different locations, each location separated by 15 km of unsampled foreshore along Eighty-mile Beach. To test for the presence or absence of patterns of tidal zonation (distinct height-related zones of specific sediment grain sizes or zoobenthic taxonomic groups) or patchiness (distinct patches of specific sediment grain sizes or zoobenthic taxonomic groups not related to tidal height) each location was divided into three along-shore sections and each section (transect) was examined at two or three tidal heights. Zonation was observed for sediment grain sizes. Sediments were coarser at the highest intertidal level and finer towards the low water line. Benthic assemblages also differed among tidal heights, but in terms of species-composition the differences were not consistent among the locations. Each location supported a unique collection of benthic invertebrates. Therefore the hypothesis of the presence of distinct zones of specific species or zoobenthic taxonomic groups was rejected; the presence of benthic patches was confirmed. The distribution of sediments and the composition of benthic assemblages were surprisingly poorly correlated compared to those reported in 12 previous quantitative studies around the world. One possible explanation might be that super-cyclone Vance, which hit the study-area only six months before this study, contributed to this poor correlation. Alternatively, the poor correlation may indicate that biotic interactions are more important than the assumed abiotic structuring.     

Morphodynamic response of nearshore bars to a shoreface nourishment

The autonomous nearshore bar behaviour along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands, is characterised by the presence of net seaward cyclic migrating sand bars generated near the shoreline. In 1993, a perturbation of the cyclic bar system was introduced by the implementation of a 2 Mm³ shoreface nourishment supplied to the nearshore bar zone, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. The morphodynamic response of the nearshore bars to the nourishment perturbation is investigated using a bathymetric data set with an alongshore extent of 12 km and sampled for 10 years. Bar behaviour is quantified in terms of bar crest position in relation to morphometric parameters such as bar depth, height, width and volume. Along with a pronounced development of a three-dimensional bar system unseen in the autonomous behaviour, the nearshore bars exhibited a 6–7 year arrest in their migrational behaviour during which bar morphology remained stable at immediate pre-nourishment morphometric values. At the subsequent onset of bar movement, bars resumed their migration at a rate predicted by autonomous behaviour in parallel development with morphometric parameters along their predicted trends. It is shown that the observed onshore transport of nourished sediment in the 6–7 year arrest results from a gradual deepening of troughs. Cross-shore sediment transport modelling is used to assess the effect of the nourishment on yearly averaged onshore (short-wave nonlinearity) and offshore (undertow) sediment transport rates. The gradual reappearance of the pre-nourishment bar-trough morphology is shown to engender a normalisation in the cross-shore distribution of sediment transport rates to pre-nourishment rates.     

Sediment Deposition and Resuspension in Mouth Bar Area of the Yangtze Estuary

—A comprehensive analysis is conducted based on observations on topography.tidal current.salinity.suspended sediment and bed load during the years of 1982.1983.1988.1989.1996 and 1997 in theYangtze Estuary.Results show that the deformation of tidal waves is distinct and the sand carrying capaci-ty is large within the mouth bar due to strong tidal currents and large volume of incoming water and sedi-ments.Owing to both temporal and spatial variation of tidal current.deposition and erosion are extremelyactive.In general a change of up to 0.1 m of bottom sediments takes place during a tidal period.The maxi-mum siltation and erosion are around 0.2 m in a spring to neap tides cycle.The riverbed is silted duringflood when there is heavy sediment load.eroded during dry season when sediment load is low.The annualaverage depth of crosion and siltation on the riverbed is around 0.6 m.In particular cases.it may increaseto 1.4 m to 2.4 m at some locations.     

长江口悬沙动力特征与输运模式

本项研究用ADCP在长江河口进行高频、高分辨率三维流速和声学浊度的定点观测,通过对定点站位潮周期内的悬沙浓度、流速和盐度的分析,计算悬沙输运率;悬沙输运机制分析表明平流作用、斯托克斯漂移效应在悬沙输运中占据主导地位.此外,从河口内向河口外,潮周期内的水动力特征与悬沙净输运具有明显的地域性差异,主要表现在悬沙输送的贡献因子、盐度的垂向混合和分布特征、垂向流速等方面.在拦门沙下游和口外地区,悬沙均向西、北方向输送,而拦门沙上游则向东、南方向输送.这种悬沙输运格局,对于长江口拦门沙及附近最大浑浊带的形成有着重要的作用.     

Sedimentary processes operating around the entrance to a river mouth port,Westport, New Zealand

The paper presents investigations of wave climate, tidal inlet hydraulics, and sand sediment bypassing at the entrance to Westport Harbour, South Island, New Zealand. The results complement and extend those of studies of bar morphologies and sediment characteristics already published. Longshore transport of about 1 × 10⁶ m³/year is directed in a net eastward fashion across the inlet because of an in‐built misalignment of the harbour training walls. Approximately 90% of the drift is bypassed, and has been since 1921, by deflection and splitting of the main sediment streams through the inner and outer bars and a transverse channel aoross the entrance. The outer bar appears to be the submarine, downdrift extension of Carters Breach and river load appears to contribute an order of magnitude less sediment to the complex than annual littoral drift. River sediments and littoral drift are mixed off the harbour and a declining proportion over time is recirculated to cause progradation of North Beach. The tidal compartment contributes little to scour of the entrance because of the predominance of bar bypassing. Contrary to the recommendations of several past studies, it is argued that improvements in navigation depths at West‐port are more likely to be obtained through modification of the littoral drift system than they are from tidal compartment enlargement.     

枯季长江口南槽悬沙输运过程和机制研究

开展枯季河口悬沙输运机理研究对于揭示弱径流条件下的陆海相互作用、河口季节性冲淤和水沙关系等具有重要的科学意义.本文根据2018年12月18-25日长江口南槽3个站位连续13个潮周期的同步流速、流向和悬沙浓度等观测资料,运用通量机制分解法研究了各输沙项的特征、贡献和输运机理.结果 表明,从小潮至大潮流速和悬沙浓度不断增加,由南槽上部至下部流速和悬沙浓度逐渐降低.观测期间平均流速与平均悬沙浓度存在明显的正线性关系,但受底质空间差异影响,悬沙浓度对流速的响应强度存在显著的空间变化.枯季期间南槽存在着中上部向陆净输沙、下部向海净输沙的空间输运格局.平流输沙和潮泵输沙是影响和控制净输沙的关键因素,二者的强度和贡献存在明显的潮周期变化和空间变化,垂向环流输沙的强度很弱,对净输沙贡献很小.南槽涨落潮输沙不对称现象明显,流速、悬沙浓度和历时都具有一定的涨落潮不对称性,这些不对称现象共同调节和控制着潮周期净输沙强度和方向的时空变化.     

黄河清水沟流路稳定性分析

根据１９８９年５月和８月枯、洪水两个季节黄河拦门沙区及河口海区地质和水文调查资料，结合黄河利津水文站近几年的径流量和输沙量变化，对黄河清水沟流路稳定性及其影响因素进行综合分析研究。结果表明，近年来黄河来沙量渐少是清水沟流路稳定的重要因素之一，随着河口向南转向海动力作用较弱的莱州湾，海水沿河上溯力逐渐减弱，河流泥沙得以更顺利入海，并在口门外沉积；现流路河口海域的水动力作用虽然较弱，但涨，落潮流的分布     

围垦工程影响下的江苏弶港潮滩剖面的演化机制

以江苏弶港潮滩为典型研究区,基于2007-2012年在潮滩及条子泥匡围工程实施期间采集的9条潮滩断面高程数据,建立潮滩剖面形态的二次函数统计模型,并结合同步采集的表层沉积物粒度数据,对围垦影响下的潮滩剖面演化机制进行了探讨。结果表明,受围垦工程影响较小的北部潮间带上部的淤积强度要大于潮间带中下部淤积强度,潮滩剖面呈上凹型;正在实施的围垦工程加剧了垦区内潮滩的淤积,尤其在下部呈现高强度淤积而造成垦区内潮滩剖面的上凸趋势减缓,剖面曲率减小。此外,由于垦区内逐渐失去潮汐水动力作用,与附近非垦区类似潮滩带相比,垦区内滩面沉积物呈细化趋势。围垦工程在潮间带中下部筑堤坝,对涨潮水体有阻滞作用,使得外海带来的细颗粒沉积物在围堤外侧快速堆积,造成原潮间带下部快速淤高,形成垦区外向海侧微下凹的潮滩剖面形态。     

潮沟系统水沙输运研究——以长江口崇明东滩为例

本研究以崇明东滩2015年4月实测潮间带水沙数据为基础,分析了潮沟、盐沼及光滩的水沙特征,重点研究了潮沟系统及邻近潮滩潮周期内悬沙通量情况。结果表明:（1）潮沟表层沉积物比潮滩细,二者平均中值粒径分别为21.7 μm和33.0 μm,悬沙粒径由海向陆逐渐变小;（2）大、小潮沟潮周期内潮流均以往复流为主,垂向平均流速分别为15.4 cm/s和34.6 cm/s;盐沼界和光滩则以旋转流为主,平均流速分别为11.3 cm/s和28.9 cm/s;（3）潮沟中的高悬沙浓度出现在涨潮初期,最大可达7.5 kg/m3,而潮滩高悬沙浓度则出现在潮落潮中期和高水位时刻;大、小潮沟和盐沼界站涨潮阶段平均悬沙浓度大于落潮阶段,光滩站则相反。潮沟悬沙主要来自邻近水域,而潮滩悬沙则与滩面表层沉积物密切相关;（4）潮沟在潮周期内净输沙方向均指向滩地,大潮沟潮周期单宽净输沙量可达4.0 t/m;盐沼界处垂直岸线和沿岸输沙强度相近,净输沙由海向陆,潮周期离岸输沙强度为1.0 t/m;光滩沿岸输沙强度远大于垂直岸线输沙,光滩净输沙由陆向海。研究揭示了潮间带潮沟系统的强供沙能力以及研究区域光滩冲蚀,盐沼植被带淤积的动力地貌过程。     

Process-based modelling of a shoreface nourishment

A state-of-the-art process-based model is applied to hindcast the morphological development of a shoreface nourishment along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands. The applied morphodynamic model is Delft3D for fully three-dimensional flow and sediment transport in coastal environments. Owing to a complex geomorphological setting of the study area, the curvi-linear model includes adjacent tidal inlets and covers 40×70 km with an increasing grid size resolution towards the nourishment site in the center of the island. In 1993, a total of 2 Mm³ of sand was supplied to the nearshore bar zone off Terschelling, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. By spring 1994, most of the nourished sediment had been redistributed onshore and welded onto the middle bar where it remained in the following years. The morphodynamic model is applied to the prediction of this rapid nearshore profile behaviour. The calibration of the model against an extensive set of full-scale hydrodynamic data at several locations throughout the nearshore bar zone shows a good representation of the measured hydrodynamics. Morphodynamic results show a dependency on spatial scale: on the scale of precise bed level evolution with respect to bar migration and growth, model predictions are poor as the nearshore bars are predicted to flatten out. Resorting to bulk volumes integrated over larger spatial scales, the model clearly has skill in predicting the overall effects of the nourishment. The lack of phase shift between sediment transport and bathymetry is identified as the key controlling factor for the poor sandbar predictions.     

Suspended sediment transport of the Hangzhou Bay and its related hydrodynamic analyses

The 25-h measurements of current speed, flow direction, water depth, suspended sediment concentration and salinity were carried out at six anchored stations in the study area during spring and neap tides in winter of 1987 and summer of 1989. Caculations and analyses of the data obtained show that large amounts of suspended sediments are moved back and forth under the action of tidal current, and the net transport of sediment is small, with its predominance upstream in winter and downstream in summer. These calculations and analyses also suggest that the advective transport of sediment is dominant, while the vertical gravitational circulation of the suspended sediment comes next. Meantime, it is indicated that tidal currents play a major role in the suspended sediment transport, and residual flows have effect on the net transport of the suspended sediment, which is more remarkable during neap tide than during spring tide.     

悬浮体粒度特征所反映的南黄海辐射沙脊群泥沙扩散趋势

基于大量的悬浮体现场粒度和浓度数据,借助细颗粒悬浮体作为示踪物,分析了潮流作用下南黄海辐射沙脊群海底沉积物的再悬浮和扩散特征,并探讨了沙辐射沙脊群以北泥质区的形成机制。研究结果表明：（1）在辐射沙脊群以北,近岸悬沙在离岸方向上的扩散受到限制,向南又被辐射沙脊群中心浅滩所阻挡,只能在辐射沙脊群与废黄河口之间形成沿岸分布的高浓度浑水团。（2）辐射沙脊群以北的往复潮流对海底沉积物有分选作用,倾向于把海底沉积物中的粗颗粒分选搬运至沙脊群,把细颗粒沉积物向北输送,从而在沙脊群以北形成泥质区。（3）在正常海况下,沙脊表层沉积物再悬浮作用十分微弱,沙脊上覆水体中的悬沙主要来自于临近沟槽海底沉积物的水平扩散。     

铁山港湾水下动力地貌特征及其成因

探讨了铁山港湾的潮间浅滩、潮流冲刷深槽、潮流沙脊、水下拦门浅滩、水下岸坡和海底平原等水下动力地貌的形态特征及其成因,并结合沉积物的粒度、碎屑重矿物的分布特征,阐述了泥沙来源及运移趋势。     

粤西水东湾现代沉积环境特征与泥沙搬运路径

对粤西水东湾沉积地貌单元的现代沉积物分布特征分析与泥沙净搬运矢量计算表明，滨面斜坡沉积物主要由砂粒级物质组成，粒级参数Ｍｄ，ＱＤ和ＳＫ具有从海向岸、自东向西变化的总趋势，泥沙净搬运趋势以向岸和西北为主。落潮三角洲沉积物较其邻近滨面斜坡有所粗化，分选从中部向两侧变好，泥沙在落潮流与波浪驱动下沿落潮三角洲边缘向西运动。口门内潮汐通道深槽泥沙净搬运趋势指向湖。湖区的沉积物以泥质为主，分选中等至差，并形成绕涨潮三角洲的泥沙环流元。     

杭州湾北岸潮滩沉积物粒度的时间变化及其沉积动力学意义

2002年5月-2003年4月对杭州湾北岸中潮滩一个固定观测点表层沉积物进行逐日取样,采用库尔特LS100Q型激光粒度仪进行粒度分析,探讨潮滩沉积物粒度随时间的演变。结果表明,潮滩粒度特征在时间上有明显的变化,1～6月潮滩堆积期间沉积物粒度较细,7-12月潮滩侵蚀期间沉积物较粗,其中1月和7月为潮滩冲淤转换期间沉积物粒度显示双峰分布;沉积物午平均粒度亦显示双峰分布,细颗粒部分主要是由于悬沙落淤形成,而粗颗粒部分主要是由于潮滩下部粉、细砂物质向上推移形成。通过潮滩沉积动力学的探讨阐明了潮滩沉积物粒度演变的原因和特点。     

Temporal and spatial variations of the Huanghe River mouth bars

1 Introduction T aking the average riverbed elevation ofthe riverm outh from its upstream side to its dow nstream sidew ithin a m outh area as a base line, there is usually asand sw ell standing higher than the base line. If thesw ellis form ed in the distributary channel,itis consid-ered as “a longitudinalbar”;ifitis offornearthe riverm outh,itis called “m outh bar”(Jiand H uang,1995a),such as the cases in the C hangjiang R iver andQ iantang R iverm outh areas(see Figs 1 and 2). Fig. …     

黄河口拦门沙与盐水楔特征及其演变

黄河口存在一个成型堆积法，称拦门沙。多次实测结果，其长度约３－７ｋｍ同蛋白质水平宽度与河宽相同，横亘于黄河尾闾与海水相连接处。随着河口延伸，拦门沙也向海推移，淤积最多的 部位是前绝急坡区。     

Morphodynamics of intertidal bar morphology on a macrotidal beach under low-energy wave conditions, North Lincolnshire, England

The morphological changes of multiple intertidal bars (ridges) on a macrotidal beach were examined under low-energy wave conditions during a spring-to-spring tidal cycle. The morphological response was coupled to the tidal water level variations and related residence times for swash processes and surf (breaking waves and bores) over the cross-shore profile. Spring tides induced a large spatial variation in water lines and small residence times for distinct processes. Neap tides narrowed the intertidal area and increased the time for certain processes to work on the sediment at one location. The observed morphological changes could be coupled to the stagnation of processes at a certain bar crest position. The action of surf (breaking waves and bores) played the major role in the onshore migration of the intertidal bars and the simultaneous erosion of the seaward flank. Swash action, responsible for the generation and migration of intertidal bars in microtidal settings, was not the dominant process in causing the observed morphological changes. Intertidal ridges on macrotidal beaches cannot be considered swash bars as suggested by most previous investigations into these morphological features.