桩柱上波浪力的概率分布

本文试验研究了规则波和不规则波作用下,桩柱上正向力和横向力的瞬时值分布和峰值分布。给出了分布参数随KC数变化的规律。     

计算孤立小桩柱上随机波浪力的一个线性的Morison公式

本文在线性波理论下，从计算孤立小桩柱上随机波浪力的Ｍｏｒｉｓｏｎ公式出发，通过对波浪力的概率密度的推导和分析，提出了一个新的线性化的Ｍｏｒｉｓｏｎ公式，该公式与已在工程上广泛使用的Ｂｏｒｇｍａｎ１９６７年提出的线性化的Ｍｏｒｉｓｏｎ公式在对照力的线性化上略有不同，由这个公式计算的小桩柱上的阻力是按Ｂｏｒｇｍａｎ线性化的Ｍｏｒｉｓｏｎ公式进行计算所得结果的１．０８倍，但按这个新的线性化的Ｍｏｒｉｓｏ     

计算孤立小桩柱上随机波浪力的一个线性化的Morison公式

本文在线性波理论下，从计算孤立小桩柱上随机波浪力的Ｍｏｒｉｓｏｎ公式出发，通过对波浪力的概率密度的推导和分析，提出了一个新的线性化的Ｍｏｒｉｓｏｎ公嵤健８霉接胍言诠こ躺瞎惴菏褂玫模拢铮颍纾恚幔睿保梗叮纺晏岢龅南咝曰模停铮颍椋螅铮罟綅在对阻力的线性化上略有不同，由这个公式计算的小桩柱上的阻力是按Ｂｏｒｇｍａｎ线嵭曰模停铮颍椋螅铮罟浇屑扑闼媒峁模保埃副叮凑飧鲂碌南咝曰模停铮颍椋螅铮顛公式计算的随机波浪力的方差与直接利用Ｍｏｒｉｓｏｎ公式进行计算的结果是完全相同嵉模闹懈龅睦砺鄯治龊褪导扑憬峁砻鳎旱弊枇ο灾保晌颐翘岢龅募埃拢铮颍纾恚幔罡龅南咝曰模停铮颍椋螅铮罟降玫降男∽闲±刍怕氏碌乃婊ɡ藣力，均比直接由Ｍｏｒｉｓｏｎ公式进行计算得到的结果偏小，但按我们给出的线牲化的崳停铮颍椋螅铮罟降玫降慕峁劝矗拢铮颍纾恚幔畹南咝曰模停铮颍椋螅铮罟降玫降慕峁鼚接近于直接由Ｍｏｒｉｓｏｎ公式给出的结果。     

随机波浪中畸形波在三维岛礁地形上的试验研究

在试验水池中,开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型,然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱,由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素H_m/H_s（H_m表示波列中的最大波高, H_s为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析,同时,对畸形波波高H_fr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析,发现峰度与畸形波要素i>H_m/H_s呈正相关, H_fr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外,水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。     

近岸区直墙波浪力的模拟

在水槽中进行了几种不同坡度的斜坡平台上规则波作用下直墙波浪力试验，系统分析了直墙上相对最大压强和相对最大总力，给出了它们之间的比较关系。还进行了不同坡度的不规则波模型试验，并讨论了波浪力之间的特性。结果表明采用1：10、1：15的斜坡与平台相结合的试验室模拟，可得到与平底地形相近的直墙波浪力。     

多向不规则波浪生成的数值方法

实际的海浪是三维(多方向)的,海浪的方向分布对于海浪折射、绕射及泥沙运动等的研究具有重要的意义,因而人们利用多向不规则造波机对它进行物理模型试验研究.同时,基于合适的数学模型,可在计算机上产生长时段的多向不规则波浪,用于研究海浪的基本特性及其对工程建筑物的作用,也是一种方便经济有效的手段,这也是制作多向不规则波造波机控制信号的基础.因此,如何由数模有效地合成多向不规则波浪,日益受到人们的重视.常用的一种方法是把海浪看作由无数不同频率和不同方向的组成波线性叠加而成,因而将模拟二维波浪的方法^[1]直接推广应用于三维波浪的模拟.但是这样模拟所得的波浪往往是空间上不均匀,时间上会重复出现,需要进一步研究改进.本文首先给出了多向不规则波的三种模拟方法,并对其模拟结果进行了分析检验,给出了较理想的海浪模式.在此基础上,研究了模拟所得波浪的基本特征和模拟参数的确定.     

多向随机波浪的方向谱分析

针对由多点波面资料进行方向谱分析过程中发现的问题，利用数值模拟的方法研究了互谱分析中光滑点数，光滑次数，采样长度，采样间隔，波浪入射方向，波浪的多向性等因素对方向谱分析结果的影响，得出一些有意义的结论。     

不规则波远破波对直墙的作用

基于物模试验、理论推理、因次分析和工程实例验证等综合分析方法,就不规则波远破波对直墙作用力的计算方法进行了研究,用推荐的方法得到的结果与工程实例符合较好.     

直立堤不规则波波浪力研究进展

综述了直立堤不规则波波浪力的研究方法,并围绕这些方法介绍了淡规则波作用下直立堤上波浪力的研究进展。这些研究涉及直立堤前的波浪形态、频谱及方向谱下的波浪力、物理模型的比尺效应、谱分析的有关成果和数学模型的应用等几方面。     

波浪水槽中随机波的模拟

根据线性系统理论,首先由给定的靶谱模拟海浪信号,再把此信号转换为造波控制输入信号,最后在水槽中指定的截面处产生具有给定靶谱的随机波。这种模拟方法已在青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室的大型水槽中实现,并取得良好的效果。     

Interaction of oblique waves with an infinite cylinder

A Green's function procedure is applied to compute the oblique wave interaction with a cylinder of arbitrary section on the free surface in water of infinite depth. Also, the hydrodynamic coefficients associated with the motion of the cylinder oscillating in its three degrees of freedom, periodic along its axis, are treated. A computer program based on the present procedure is found to be accurate and efficient. The results are applicable to the analysis of floating breakwaters, floating bridges, ship hulls and other elongated structures on a free surface.     

Wave runup on a surging vertical cylinder in regular waves

The wave runup caused by a vertical cylinder surging in regular waves is studied both experimentally and numerically. The so-called DualSPHysics Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) code is used for the 3-D numerical modelling. A wide range of cylinder sizes and wave conditions is investigated with results comparing favourably between the experimental and SPH model under both fixed and forced-surge conditions. The experimental and SPH results are further used to predict the maximum runup amplification, in particular the ratio of the runup caused by the surging cylinder to that of the fixed, over the phase difference between the incident wave and surge motion. This maximum runup ratio has been analysed for its dependence on factors such as wave steepness, wave scattering and surge amplitude. An empirical equation is proposed for predicting the maximum runup ratio from known incident wave and surge conditions. Comparison with results from linear solvers suggests that the linear solvers under-predict the full nonlinear runup by a factor of 1.3–1.5.     

A 3-D model based on Navier–Stokes equations for regular and irregular water wave propagation

A spatial fixed σ-coordinate is used to transform the Navier–Stokes equations from the sea bed to the still water level. In the fixed σ-coordinate system only a very small number of vertical grid points are required for the numerical model. The time step for using the spatial fixed σ-coordinate is efficiently larger than that of using a time dependent σ-coordinate, as there is substantial truncation error involved in the time dependent σ-coordinate transformation. There is no need to carry out the σ-coordinate transformation at each time step, which can reduce computational times. It is important that wave breaking can be potentially modeled in the fixed σ-coordinate system, but in a time-dependent σ-coordinate system the wave breaking cannot be modeled. A projection method is used to separate advection and diffusion terms from the pressure terms in Navier–Stokes equations. The pressure variable is further separated into hydrostatic and hydrodynamic pressures so that the computer rounding errors can be largely avoided. In order to reduce computational time of solving the hydrodynamic pressure equation, at every time step the initial pressure is extrapolated in time domain using computed pressures from previous time steps, and then corrected in spatial domain using a multigrid method. For each time step, only a few of iterations (typically six iterations) are required for solving the pressure equation. The model is tested against available experimental data for regular and irregular waves and good agreement between calculation results and the measured data has been achieved.     

分段式造波机生成波浪内外部结构的一致性分析

用60个波高仪组成2m×2m的方阵,同步测量波面过程,用Doppler声学流速仪获得了二维正向和斜向规则波、二维正向和斜向随机波以及三维随机波浪场中不同水深处的同步Euler水质点速度各方向分量的高精度的时间过程资料.以此为出发点,讨论了分段式造波机生成波浪的周期分布特征,发现三维随机波浪周期分布的μ值与二维随机波浪比较有明显增大的趋势.分别从速度合矢量方向与波向的吻合程度(对二维波浪)、"多点波面"组合与"波面-水质点速度"组合两种方式得到方向谱的吻合程度(对三维随机波浪)等不同角度,论证了分段式造波机产生的波浪的内外部结构的一致性.     

Oblique and Multi-Directional Random Wave Loads on Vertical Breakwaters

1 .IntroductionTraditionally ,thedesignofcoastalstructuresisbasedontheformulaedevelopedforhead onuni directionalwaves .However,wavesusuallyattackabreakwaterobliquely ,formingshort crestedwavesinfrontofthebreakwater.Ontheotherhand ,asthehumanactivityareaisspreading ,thewaterdepthattheconstructionsiteforbreakwatershasatendencytobecomelarge ,andsomebreakwatershavebeenconstructedinwaterareasdeeperthan 6 0minJapan (Tanimotoetal.,1 988) .Theseawaveismulti directionalandrandom ,especiallyindeepwater…     

波流水槽模拟波浪技术的研究

介绍了实验室的造波机系统和造波特性及其在模型试验中的应用,并讨论了实验室内模拟海浪的检验标准及其方法。并对造波机应用前景进行讨论,对不规则波造波机进行物模试验具有一定的现实意义。     

圆筒形水工建筑物波浪荷工的试验研究

在圆筒形水工建筑物的波压力测定试验基础上 ,通过多种波压力理论计算方法进行计算、比较和分析 ,采用半经验半理论方法 ,探讨性地提出一种适合圆筒形水工建筑物波浪荷载的分布及计算方法 ,该法表现形式简单 ,计算结果接近实测值 ,可为相关的工程设计提供参考依据     

Wave run-up on a coaxial perforated circular cylinder

This paper describes a plane regular wave interaction with a combined cylinder which consists of a solid inner column and a coaxial perforated outer cylinder.The outer perforated surface is a thin porous cylinder with an annular gap between it and the inner cylinder.The non-linear boundary condition at the perforated wall is a prime focus in the study;energy dissipation at the perforated wall occurs through the resistance to the fluid across the perforated wall.Explicit analytical formulae are presented to calculate the wave run-up on the outer and inner surfaces of the perforated cylinder and the surface of the inner column.The theoretical results of the wave run-up are compared with previous experimental data.Numerical results have also been obtained:when the ratio of the annular gap between the two cylinders to incident wavelength(b-a)/L≤0.1,the wave run-up on the inner surface of the perforated cylinder and the surface of inner column can partially or completely exceed the incident wave height.     

Observations of freak waves in random wave field in 2D experimental wave flume

Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI.     

不规则波浪数值水槽的造波和阻尼消波

利用MAC(marker and cell)法直接数值求解连续方程和N-S方程.为模拟不规则波长时段连续造波及消除波浪遇结构物后形成的二次反射,采用了源造波法.对开敞边界,采用了海绵阻尼消波和Sommerfeld条件相结合的处理方式.