基于ADCP的长江河口推移质运动特性研究

基于多普勒声学流速剖面仪(ADCP)在长江口6个测点(长兴岛北侧、南北槽分流口、崇明东滩南侧、横沙岛北侧、南汇南滩和横沙通道北侧)观测的数据,利用ADCP底跟踪功能观测底床推移质运动过程。结果表明:通过ADCP数据,在涨、落急时段可以清晰地看到是否存在推移质运动;直观表达了推移质运动速度在一个潮周期内的变化过程;推移质运动速度变化过程曲线与潮流流速变化过程曲线呈现"对应、不对称"的特征;推移质运动速度的日不等现象比潮流流速日不等现象更加显著。     

台风期间浮标和潜标上ADCP的空间变化、数据误差及校正#br#

基于南海北部浮标和潜标的声学多普勒流速剖面仪（ADCP）数据,通过一套几何算法计算了台风海鸥（1415）期间ADCP的空间变化和流速误差,并进行数据校正。浮标上,台风过后ADCP的水平位移最大可达2.61 km,水平流速误差最大可达0.27 m/s,垂向流速误差最大仅为5×10^-4 m/s;温跃层流速校正值在台风过后显著大于流速测值,这表明水平校正对于温跃层流速的质量控制很重要。潜标上,ADCP最大垂向位移增量为179 m,最大绳子倾角为35°,最大水平位移为1.5 km; ADCP水平流速误差和倾角误差都很小,在数据校正中可忽略不计,但对台风过后中层流速的垂向校正不能忽略。     

基于新型高频声学多普勒流速剖面仪的河口近底部边界层观测初探

河口物质输运、能量交换与底边界层内的水动力过程密切相关,底边界层参数(如切应力、拖曳系数)的确定至关重要。挪威Nortek公司生产的新型声学多普勒流速剖面仪AD2CP相比传统ADCP具有高频、低噪的优点,可用于高频(16Hz)流速剖面观测,而被广泛应用于底边界层观测的ADV只能测量单点高频流速。本文采用AD2CP在长江口南槽最大浑浊带区域进行座底式观测,并与同步近底部三脚架上ADV的观测结果进行对比。结果表明,使用AD2CP测得的近底部平均流速与ADV的测量结果吻合良好;使用惯性耗散法计算了底切应力,基于ADV的单点高频流速数据计算结果为2.16×10~(-2)～5.69×10~(-1)N/m~2,基于AD2CP的结果为2.09×10~(-2)～4.26×10~(-1)N/m~2,二者范围大致相当。在此基础上,基于AD2CP数据计算出摩阻流速为4.55×10~(-3)～2.06×10~(-2)m/s、底拖曳系数范围为1.84×10~(-4)～2.49×10~(-3),与ADV的计算结果基本一致。此外,由于AD2CP可以获得高频的流速剖面数据,优于单点ADV,具备观测近底部边界层参数和边界层内湍流剖面的潜力。     

Operating experience with a BM-04 wave-tide gauge

A BM-04 microprocessor wave-tide gauge developed at the Shirshov Institute of Oceanology is used for the acquisition of data on the parameters of surface waves (the mean height \(\bar h\), the mean period \(\bar \tau \), the frequency spectrum S(ω), and so on) and the mean sea level ζ. As a wave gauge, the instrument can be deployed on the sea floor, on piles, and so on at depths down to 10 m in the near-shore zone and can be mounted on subsurface buoys offshore. As a tide gauge, the instrument can be used at depths down to 6000 m. The instruments were successfully tested and intercalibrated in the Black and Baltic seas and the Sea of Okhotsk.     

Measurements of ocean bottom pressure with a quartz sensor

Year long measurements of bottom pressure were made at 2,036 m depth in Sagami Trough, at 2,538 m depth in Suruga Trough, and at 32 m depth in the south of Minami-Daitojima Island. Amplitudes and phase lags of the major constituents of tides were estimated by the response method, and they were compared with the observational results at several tide stations operated by the Japan Meteorological Agency. A comparison with Schwiderski's global models for the eight tidal constituents showed that the amplitudes were in good accordance to one another within 3 cm, and that the differences of phase lags were less than 15°. The largest portion of the variations of the bottom pressure was caused by the tides: the variance of the major eight constituents was more than 98.5% as large as the total variance. The measurements show that tidal waves can be recorded offshore with a sufficient accuracy by the quartz sensors. Drifts of indication of the pressure gauges were significant and they prevented detection of a long-term variation which might be caused by fluctuations of the ocean currents or by the eddies.     

Using a lowered acoustic Doppler current profiler for measuring current velocities in the Black Sea

The results obtained with the use of a lowered acoustic Doppler current profiler (LADCP) are presented. The use of the LADCP from a vessel was the first in the history of the study of the Black Sea. The measurements were carried out in the northeastern Black Sea under the auspices of the Black Sea Ecosystem Recovery Program (BSERP) in May 2004. The effect of the computation parameters on the quality and accuracy of the calculations of velocity profiles was studied. It was shown that the use of optimal parameters and reliable navigation data and setting the instrument as close to the bottom as possible could essentially enhance the accuracy of the measurements. The current velocity calculations from the LADCP data were compared with the data on the vessel drift under calm weather. The accuracy of the calculations reached 6–8 cm/s. Recommendations on the choice of the optimal parameters for processing the data on the current velocity are presented.     

Wave particle velocities measured with a Doppler current meter

A newly developed three-dimensional Doppler current meter is described and the results of preliminary field experiments are presented where simultaneous measurements of surface elevation and water velocity associated with wave orbital motion were made. The phase difference between the surface elevation and the vertical velocity measured at 1.0 and 0.45 meters below the mean water level is found to be approximately 90, in accord with the theory for surface waves of infinitesimally small amplitudes. The spectral (frequency) density distribution for velocity is also found to agree with that we would expect from the linear theory for the observed frequency distribution of surface elevation. However, the amplitude of velocity is consistently smaller (about 10 %) than that we would expect. This reduction of amplitude is more pronounced in cases where waves are high and the water depth is shallow.     

Community and Population Responses of the Macroinfauna to Physical Factors over a Range of Exposed Sandy Beaches in South-central Chile

Ten exposed sandy sites covering a range from reflective to dissipative beaches were sampled in south-central Chile to evaluate: (1) spatial changes in species richness, abundance and biomass of the intertidal macroinfauna in response to changes in mean grain size, beach face slope and beach type, and (2) spatial changes in abundance, biomass and body sizes of the most abundant species in response to changes in the physical factors. The number of species, abundance and biomass per beach in general decreased with increasing particle size and beach face slope (steeper beaches) and increased from reflective to dissipative conditions. The best fit for number of species was with Dean's parameter, a measure of beach type, whereas for abundance and biomass the best fits were found with particle size. The isopod Excirolana braziliensis and the anomuran Emerita analoga increased in abundance and biomass towards dissipative conditions, whereas Excirolana hirsuticauda showed the opposite trend in biomass and was significantly larger in beaches with steeper profiles. It is concluded that responses to changes in beach type are more pronounced at community level than within species populations.     

An Improved Calibration of Satellite Altimetric Heights Using Tide Gauge Sea Levels with Adjustment for Land Motion

Several major improvements to an existing method for calibrating satellite altimeters using tide gauge data are described. The calibration is in the sense of monitoring and correcting temporal drift in the altimetric time series, which is essential in efforts to use the altimetric data for especially demanding applications. Examples include the determination of the rate of change of global mean sea level and the study of the relatively subtle, but climatically important, decadal variations in basin scale sea levels. The improvements are to the method described by Mitchum (1998a), and the modifications are of two basic types. First, since the method depends on the cancellation of true ocean signals by differencing the altimetric data from the tide gauge sea level time series, improvements are made that produce a more complete removal of the ocean signals that comprise the noise for the altimetric drift estimation problem. Second, a major error source in the tide gauge data, namely land motion, is explicitly addressed and corrections are developed that incorporate space-based geodetic data (continuous GPS and DORIS measurements). The long-term solution, having such geodetic measurements available at all the tide gauges, is not yet a reality, so an interim solution is developed. The improved method is applied to the TOPEX altimetric data. The Side A data (August 1992?February 1999) are found to have a linear drift component of 0.55 + / 0.39 mm/yr, but there is also a significant quadratic component to the drift that is presently unexplained. The TOPEX Side B altimeter is estimated to be biased by 7.0 + / 0.7 mm relative to the Side A altimeter based on an analysis of the first 350 days of Side B data.     

An Improved Calibration of Satellite Altimetric Heights Using Tide Gauge Sea Levels with Adjustment for Land Motion

Several major improvements to an existing method for calibrating satellite altimeters using tide gauge data are described. The calibration is in the sense of monitoring and correcting temporal drift in the altimetric time series, which is essential in efforts to use the altimetric data for especially demanding applications. Examples include the determination of the rate of change of global mean sea level and the study of the relatively subtle, but climatically important, decadal variations in basin scale sea levels. The improvements are to the method described by Mitchum (1998a), and the modifications are of two basic types. First, since the method depends on the cancellation of true ocean signals by differencing the altimetric data from the tide gauge sea level time series, improvements are made that produce a more complete removal of the ocean signals that comprise the noise for the altimetric drift estimation problem. Second, a major error source in the tide gauge data, namely land motion, is explicitly addressed and corrections are developed that incorporate space-based geodetic data (continuous GPS and DORIS measurements). The long-term solution, having such geodetic measurements available at all the tide gauges, is not yet a reality, so an interim solution is developed. The improved method is applied to the TOPEX altimetric data. The Side A data (August 1992?February 1999) are found to have a linear drift component of 0.55 + / 0.39 mm/yr, but there is also a significant quadratic component to the drift that is presently unexplained. The TOPEX Side B altimeter is estimated to be biased by 7.0 + / 0.7 mm relative to the Side A altimeter based on an analysis of the first 350 days of Side B data.     

Seasonal physical–chemical structure and acoustic Doppler current profiler flow patterns over multiple years in a shallow, stratified estuary, with implications for lateral variability

The overall goal of this study was to strengthen understanding of the hydrographic structure in shallow estuaries as influenced by seasonal and depth-dependent variability, and by variability from extreme meteorological events. The mesohaline Neuse Estuary, North Carolina, U.S.A., which was the focus, receives surface inputs from upriver and tributary freshwater sources and bottom inputs from downriver high-salinity sound water sources, resulting in varying degrees of stratification. To assess depth-dependent, estuary-wide changes in salinity, a multiple time series was created using data from four discrete depths (surface and 1, 2, and 3 m±0.25 m). The database was developed from weekly to biweekly sampling of the entire water column, and included side-channel as well as mid-channel data. We characterized seasonal differences in halocline depth affecting the hydrographic structure of the mesohaline estuary and site-specific variation in nutrient concentrations, based on a comprehensive eight-year physical/chemical database. The first two years of the record showed an expected seasonal signal and included events that impacted the surface layer from freshwater inputs. Remaining years had greater variability over seasons and depths, with freshening events that affected all depths. Halocline depth was compared at specific locations, and a “snapshot” view was provided of the relative depth of these water masses within the estuary by season. We also examined flow patterns at the same cross-estuary sites over a three-year period, using a boat-mounted acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) with bottom-tracking capability. Composite visualizations constructed with single-transect ADCP data revealed a classical estuarine circulation pattern of outflow at the surface/southern shore and inflow at the bottom/northern shore. Although this pattern deviated under extreme climatological events and was sometimes variable, the estuary generally exhibited a high probability of direction of flow. Wind fields, hurricanes, and small-scale, high-precipitation events represented significant forcing variables.     

Terrestrial flux in sediments from the Okinawa Trough estimated using geochemical compositional data and its response to climate changes over the past 35 000 a

Terrestrial supply to marginal seas is a function of interaction between land and ocean in response to climate changes. Terrestrial flux in sediments, therefore, is potential not only to reflect the paleoceanographic evolution of sedimentary basin, but also to reveal the paleoclimatic changes in source regions. Sediments from the Okinawa Trough were quantitatively partitioned into terrestrial, volcanic and biogenitic end members using constrained leastsquares technique for geochemical compositional data. Combined with the density of bulk sediments and sedimentation rate, the terrestrial flux in sediments from the Okinawa Trough since the last 35 000 a was estimated. Based on surface seawater temperature (SST) and sea level changes over the past 35 000 a, the response of terrestrial flux to the climate changes was discussed. It is demonstrated that the terrestrial supply to the Okinawa Trough mainly derived from Chinese landmass via the Changjiang (Yangtze) River and controlled by sea level changes. During the postglaciation, the terrestrial flux was the lowest in response to the highest sea level stand. During the last glacial maximum (LGM), the terrestrial flux was not so high as previously expected, indicating the arid climatic condition in source region was responsible for lowering the Changjiang River’s runoff during that time. During the deglaciation, the terrestrial flux increased in response to a quick rising of the sea level, probably implicating occurrence of downslope transport. The four events characterized by slight increase in terrestrial flux exactly correspond to the LGM, Heinrich events (H1, H2, H3), respectively.     

Experience in measuring the wind-velocity profile in an urban environment with a Doppler sodar

The experience of long-term acoustic remote measurements of vertical wind-velocity profiles at two sites in Moscow is reported. Equipment performances and measurement conditions are described. Acoustic measurement features characteristic of a large city with high traffic noise and spurious reflections from buildings are discussed. Criteria and techniques of rejecting noisy and false signals are described as well as the methods of statistical data processing suitable in the case of a signal-to-noise ratio rapidly varying in time and a significant number of rejected signals. Preliminary results of measurements are given.     

An evaluation of wave propagation simulations over a barred beach with a Boussinesq-type model

The FUNWAVE model is used for simulating simulation of monochromatic and irregular wave propagation in a channel with a bar-trough profile. FUNWAVE is based upon the extended Boussinesq equations. The study aims to analyze the model's performance when simulating shoaling, wave breaking and nonlinear interactions that are present in nearshore wave propagation. For that, high-order time domain statistics (root mean-square wave height, skewness, asymmetry and the kurtosis) of the model simulations and of the observations were compared along the whole channel. Also, a frequency domain analysis including standard spectral analysis and the bispectrum was carried out in selected points of the flume. The evaluation included the role of the wave breaking internal model parameters. The main conclusion is that, in general, the one-dimensional version of FUNWAVE simulates quite well the nonlinear transformation of a wave over a bottom with a bar-tough profile, for both regular and irregular wave conditions. The model reproduces the transformation of the wave shape, specially the increasing sharper wave crests and flatter troughs and also the lack of vertical symmetry with crests pitching forward, as it propagates along the domain. However, some differences persist after wave breaking, mainly due to the nature of the wave-breaking module. In this module, the energy dissipation is induced by the increase of viscosity, a rather simple mechanism, without the modification of the wave shape. Also, the energy dissipation develops in a smooth way which is appropriated for spilling breaking waves, but not for plunging breaking waves where the dissipation starts more abruptly.     

A new approximation for ocean waves propagating over a beach with variable depth

In this paper, the phenomenon of ocean waves propagating over a beach with variable water depth is re-examined. Based on the assumption of shallow water, a linearised shallow water equation is solved with an arbitrary beach profile. These irregular beach profiles form a set of partial differential equation with variable coefficient as the governing equation, which is the main obstacle in obtaining analytical solutions. In this paper, two families of beach profile are used as examples. A parametric study is conducted to investigate the influence of the beach profiles on the water surface elevation (η) and velocities (u).     

Using salt intrusion measurements to determine the freshwater discharge distribution over the branches of a multi-channel estuary: The Mekong Delta case

The fresh water discharge is an important parameter for modelling salt intrusion in an estuary. In alluvial converging estuaries during periods of low flow, when salinity is highest, the river discharge is generally small compared to the tidal flow. This makes the determination of the fresh water discharge a challenging task. Even if discharge observations are available during a full tidal cycle, the fresh water discharge is seldom much larger than the measurement error in the tidal discharge. Observations further upstream, outside the tidal region, do not always reflect the actual flow in the saline area due to withdrawals or additional drainage. Discharge computation is even more difficult in a complex system such as the Mekong Delta, which is a multi-channel estuary consisting of many branches, over which the freshwater discharge distribution cannot be measured directly. This paper presents a new approach to determine the freshwater discharge distribution over the branches of the Mekong Delta by means of an analytical salt intrusion model, based on measurements made during the dry season of 2005 and 2006. It appears that the analytical model agrees well with observations and with a hydraulic model. This paper demonstrates that with relatively simple and appropriate salinity measurements and making use of the analytical salt intrusion model, it is possible to obtain an accurate discharge distribution over the branches of a complex estuary system. This makes the analytical model a powerful tool to analyze the water resources in tidal regions.     

Determination of carbon monoxide pollution of the atmosphere over Moscow with a spectroscopic method

The results of measurements of the total content of carbon monoxide in an atmospheric column over Moscow and the Zvenigorod Scientific Station (ZSS) are given for the period 1993–2005. The simultaneous measurements of the regional background contents of carbon monoxide over a rural area (ZSS) and over Moscow made it possible to isolate an urban portion of the CO content. The total content of CO over the city varies significantly from day to day from values close to the background value to values that are 2.5–3 times greater than the background value. The number of days with such a CO content is 5% of the total number of measurement days. Such a CO content is most often observed during the cold seasons. During the warm seasons, in most of the cases, slight excesses of the CO background value are observed in the urban atmosphere. Variations in the CO content are determined mainly by wind-velocity variations and temperature inversions. In 2002, the high CO concentrations were due to forest and peatbog fires. On some days, over the ZSS, the concentrations of CO were high as never before. Over this period (12 years), the CO content in the surface air layer over the city did not increase.     

Laboratory experiments on depression interfacial solitary waves over a trapezoidal obstacle with horizontal plateau

While shoaling from deep water in a stratified ocean, an internal wave may encounter different types of submarine topography. As it travels, the wave may generate vortex motion on a slope, turbulent mixing between the upper and bottom layer, and even waveform inversion on the plateau of a slope-shelf feature. Although many oceanographers have believed that the inversion from depression to elevation may commence at the turning point where the upper and low layer are equal in depth, this phenomenon has not been fully verified in field observations or numerical schemes. In order to clarify this unique phenomenon, a series of laboratory experiments were conducted on the evolution of an interfacial solitary wave of depression across a slope followed by a horizontal plateau on slope-shelf obstacle. Experimental results indicate the length of the plateau may become a proxy to determine whether the inverted waveform could maintain its strength or be weakened swiftly, which could inflict direct impact on the ecology of the local oceanic environment. Comparison on the internal flow field is also presented in this paper to illustrate the process of waveform inversion as an internal wave propagating over a trapezoidal, triangular ridge and uniform long slope, respectively.     

Wave motion over a submerged breakwater with an upper horizontal porous plate and a lower horizontal solid plate

This study examines the hydrodynamic performance of a modified two-layer horizontal-plate breakwater. The breakwater consists of an upper submerged horizontal porous plate and a lower submerged horizontal solid plate. By means of the matched eigenfunction expansion method, a linear analytical solution is developed for the interaction of water waves with the structure. Then the reflection coefficient, the transmission coefficient, the energy-loss coefficient and the wave forces acting on the plates are calculated. The numerical results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as previous predictions for a single submerged horizontal solid plate and a single submerged horizontal porous plate. Numerical results show that with a suitable geometrical porosity of the upper plate, the uplift wave forces on both plates can be controlled at a low level. Numerical results also show that the transmission coefficient will be always small if the dimensionless plate length (plate length versus incident wavelength) exceeds a certain moderate value. This is rather significant for practical engineering, as the incident wavelength varies over a wide range in practice. Moreover, it is found that the hydrodynamic performance of the present structure may be further enhanced if the lower plate is also perforated.