Experimental determination of small-scale turbulence coefficients in the near-surface layer of the sea

The results of numerous experiments on the diffusion of fluorescent dyes are presented. To determine the turbulent diffusion coefficients, the technique involving under water photography of a jet with the subsequent processing of negatives by a microphotometer was used. The vertical coefficients were found to be slightly larger (by about 20%) than the horizontal ones, with the scale of the phenomenon being 0.3–1 m. Empiric relationships have been derived for the turbulent diffusion vertical coefficient on the parameters of surface waves.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

Numerical study on the flow characteristics of tidal jets induced by a tidal-jet-generator

The flow characteristics of tidal jets induced by a Tidal-Jet Generator (TJG) are investigated using a finite-difference numerical scheme, named Navier–Stokes (NS)–Marker and Cell (MAC)-TIDE, based on the fully 3D NS equations. The TJG is an enclosed rectangular breakwater, which has vertical opening and a large enclosed volume inside. During both phases of tide, strong and uni-directional jets can be obtained locally from the inlet of the TJG, due to the water level difference between the inner and outer sides of TJG.The computed results are extensively compared with three other independently developed numerical models; 3D-ADI, DVM, and CIP-CSF. These models are based on quasi-3D, 2D depth-averaged, and fully 3D NS equations, respectively. It is seen that the present fully 3D numerical model NS–MAC-TIDE can predict the maximum intensity of inlet velocity with higher accuracy than the other numerical models when compared with the empirical function proposed from the experiments. The numerical simulations based on NS–MAC-TIDE can reproduce successfully the processes of generation, development, and dissipation of tidal jets. The effects of gap opening on the main characteristics of the tidal jet flow are assessed. Through numerical assessment, it is also clearly demonstrated that the residual time of a pollutant distributed around the front of the TJG can be decreased by significant amount due to the locally induced tidal jet. The TJG can thus utilize tidal energy for water purification in local marine environment by providing a flushing mechanism.     

Investigating the impact of surface wave breaking on modeling the trajectories of drifters in the northern Adriatic Sea during a wind-storm event

An accurate numerical prediction of the oceanic upper layer velocity is a demanding requirement for many applications at sea and is a function of several near-surface processes that need to be incorporated in a numerical model. Among them, we assess the effects of vertical resolution, different vertical mixing parameterization (the so-called Generic Length Scale –GLS– set of k–ε, k–ω, gen, and the Mellor–Yamada), and surface roughness values on turbulent kinetic energy (k) injection from breaking waves.First, we modified the GLS turbulence closure formulation in the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) to incorporate the surface flux of turbulent kinetic energy due to wave breaking. Then, we applied the model to idealized test cases, exploring the sensitivity to the above mentioned factors. Last, the model was applied to a realistic situation in the Adriatic Sea driven by numerical meteorological forcings and river discharges. In this case, numerical drifters were released during an intense episode of Bora winds that occurred in mid-February 2003, and their trajectories compared to the displacement of satellite-tracked drifters deployed during the ADRIA02-03 sea-truth campaign.Results indicted that the inclusion of the wave breaking process helps improve the accuracy of the numerical simulations, subject to an increase in the typical value of the surface roughness z₀. Specifically, the best performance was obtained using α_CH = 56,000 in the Charnok formula, the wave breaking parameterization activated, k–ε as the turbulence closure model. With these options, the relative error with respect to the average distance of the drifter was about 25% (5.5 km/day). The most sensitive factors in the model were found to be the value of α_CH enhanced with respect to a standard value, followed by the adoption of wave breaking parameterization and the particular turbulence closure model selected.     

Investigation of the Effects of Baffles on the Shallow Water Sloshing in A Rectangular Tank Using A 2D Turbulent ISPH Method

Liquid sloshing is a common phenomenon in the liquid tanks transportation. Liquid waves lead to fluctuating forces on the tank wall. Uncontrolled fluctuations lead to large forces and momentums. Baffles can control these fluctuations. A numerical method, which has been widely used to model this phenomenon, is Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics(SPH). The Lagrangian nature of this method makes it suitable for simulating free surface flows. In the present study, an accurate Incompressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics(ISPH) method is developed and improved using the kernel gradient correction tensors, particle shifting algorithms, k–ε turbulence model, and free surface particle detectors. Comparisons with the experimental data approve the ability of the present algorithm for simulating shallow water sloshing. The main aim of this study is to investigate the effects of the vertical baffle on the damping of liquid sloshing. Results show that baffles number has a major role in sloshing fluctuation damping.     

Wave reflection characteristics of plane, dentated and serrated seawalls

The hydrodynamic performance of vertical and sloped plane, dentated and serrated seawalls were investigated using physical model studies. Regular and random waves of wide range of heights and periods were used. Tests were carried out for different inclinations of the seawall (i.e. θ=30, 40, 50, 60 and 90°) and for a constant water depth of 0.7 m. The wave reflection was measured to assess the dissipation character of the seawalls. It was observed that the serrated seawall was superior to the plane and dentated seawall in reducing the wave reflection. Even for the vertical case, the coefficient of reflection due to regular waves for dentated seawall ranged from 0.6–0.99 and for the vertical serrated seawall it was 0.45–0.98, whereas for the vertical plane wall, it was almost 1.0. It was found that the characteristic dimension of the seawall (i.e. L/W) and the relative water depth (i.e. d/L) were better influencing parameters compared to the conventionally used surf similarity parameter ‘ξ’ (ξ=tan θ/(H_i/L)^0.5) in predicting the reflection from the dentated and serrated seawall, where L is the local wave length, W the width of the dent along the length of the seawall slope, d the water depth at the toe and H_i is the incident wave height. A similar trend was observed for the random waves too. The reduction in the wave reflection due to random waves for the dentated seawall as compared to the plane seawall was about 18% and for the serrated seawall, it was 20%. It was observed that the reflection due to random waves was lesser for all the three different walls than the regular waves, due to the mutual interaction of random waves. Multiple regression analysis on the measured data points was carried out and predictive equations for the reflection coefficient were obtained for both regular and random waves. This study will be useful in the design of energy dissipating type vertical quay walls in ports and harbours, sloped seawalls for shore protection from erosion and sloped caisson as breakwaters. Comparison of predictive formulae with the experimental results revealed that the prediction methods were good enough for practical purposes.     

Seabed shear stress and bedload transport due to asymmetric and skewed waves

A simple conceptual formulation to compute seabed shear stress due to asymmetric and skewed waves is presented. This formulation generalizes the sinusoidal wave case and uses a variable friction factor to describe the physics of the boundary layer and to parameterize the effects of wave shape. Predictions of bed shear stresses agree with numerical computations using a standard boundary layer model with a k–ε turbulence closure. The bed shear stress formulation is combined with a Meyer-Peter and Müller-type formula to predict sheet flow bedload transport under asymmetric and skewed waves for a horizontal or sloping bed. The predictions agree with oscillatory water tunnel measurements from the literature.     

On the identification of ship coupled heave–pitch motions using neural networks

This paper outlines a procedure for the derivation of the differential equations describing the free response of a heaving and pitching ship from its stationary response to random waves. The coupled heave–pitch motion of a ship in random seas is modelled as a multi-dimensional Markov process. The partial differential equation describing the transition probability density function, known as the Fokker-Planck equation, for this process is derived. The Fokker-Planck equation is used to derive the random decrement equations for the coupled heave–pitch motion. The parameters in these equations are then identified using a neural network approach. The method is validated using numerical simulations and experimental results. The experimental data was obtained using an icebreaker ship model heaving and pitching in random waves. It is shown that the method produces good results when the system is lightly damped. An extension for using this method to identify couple heave–pitch motion in realistic seas is suggested.     

Simulation of wave propagation over a submerged bar using the VOF method with a two-equation k– turbulence modeling

A two-equation k– turbulence model is used in this paper to simulate the propagation of cnoidal waves over a submerged bar, where the free surface is handled by the volume-of-fluid (VOF) method. Using a VOF partial-cell variable and a donor–acceptor method, the model is capable of treating irregular boundaries, including arbitrary bottom topography and internal obstacles, where the no-slip condition is satisfied. The model also allows the viscous sublayer to be modeled by a wall function approximation implemented in the grid nodes that are immediately adjacent to a wall boundary. The numerical model applied to the propagation of cnoidal waves over a submerged bar can produce results that are in general agreement with some laboratory measurements. Some remarks arising from the comparison between the computational and experimental results are presented.     

A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.     

Sand suction mechanism in artificial beach composed of rubble mound breakwater and reclaimed sand area

An artificial beach has been constructed compensating for losing of the natural one caused by the development of coastal area. In this paper, the hydraulic model tests are carried out to investigate the suction phenomenon on the artificial beach constituted of rubble mound breakwater with gravel and the reclaimed sand area. In addition, the numerical model for waves, structures and seabed interaction as well as the numerical method based on the u–p approximation of the Biot equations is developed for investigation of suction mechanism. After verification of the numerical models by comparing numerical results with experimental data, the numerical models are further used to clarify the detailed suction mechanism of the reclaimed sand. The factors that affect the suction phenomenon are examined experimentally and their critical values are presented. Also, it can be pointed out that the vertical discharge velocity as well as the volumetric strain around the still water level of the boundary between the breakwater and the beach gets up to the critical value, the reclaimed sand starts to flow out to the offshore, and it finally leads to caves and cave-ins in the reclaimed zone.     

Probability distribution of random wave–current forces

Based on the second-order solutions obtained for the three-dimensional weakly nonlinear random waves propagating over a steady uniform current in finite water depth, the joint statistical distribution of the velocity and acceleration of the fluid particle in the current direction is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random forces caused by waves propagating over a steady uniform current are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. The distributions presented can be determined by the wave number spectrum of ocean waves, current speed and the second order wave–wave and wave–current interactions. As an illustrative example, for fully developed deep ocean waves, the parameters appeared in the distributions near still water level are calculated for various wind speeds and current speeds by using Donelan–Pierson–Banner spectrum and the effects of the current and the nonlinearity of ocean waves on the distribution are studied.     

Wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank: A desingularized method

The problem of wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank is studied using desingularized boundary integral equation method coupled with mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation. The present method is employed to solve the potential flow boundary value problem at each time step. The fourth-order predictor–corrector Adams–Bashforth–Moulton scheme is used for the time-stepping integration of the free surface boundary conditions. A damping layer near the end-wall of wave tank is added to absorb the outgoing waves with as little wave reflection back into the wave tank as possible. The saw-tooth instability is overcome via a five-point Chebyshev smoothing scheme. The model is applied to several wave propagations including solitary, irregular and random incident waves.     

Unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth based on Green–Naghdi equation

Based on Green–Naghdi equation this work studies unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth. A moving ship is regarded as a moving pressure disturbance on free surface. The moving pressure is incorporated into the Green–Naghdi equation to formulate forcing of ship waves in shallow water. The frequency dispersion term of the Green–Naghdi equation accounts for the effects of finite water depth on ship waves. A wave equation model and the finite element method (WE/FEM) are adopted to solve the Green–Naghdi equation. The numerical examples of a Series 60 (C_B=0.6) ship moving in shallow water are presented. Three-dimensional ship wave profiles and wave resistance are given when the ship moves in shallow water with a bed bump (or a trench). The numerical results indicate that the wave resistance increases first, then decreases, and finally returns to normal value as the ship passes a bed bump. A comparison between the numerical results predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations is made. It is found that the wave resistance predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation is larger than that predicted by the shallow water equations in subcritical flow , and the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations predict almost the same wave resistance when , the frequency dispersion can be neglected in supercritical flows.     

An analytical approach for the calculation of random wave forces on submerged tunnels

This paper deals with the random forces produced by high ocean waves on submerged horizontal circular cylinders. Arena [Arena F, Interaction between long-crested random waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. Phys Fluids 2006;18(7):1–9 (paper 076602)] obtained the analytical solution of the random wave field for two dimensional waves by extending the classical Ogilvie solution [Ogilvie TF, First- and second-order forces on a cylinder submerged under a free surface. J Fluid Mech 1963;16:451–472; Arena F, Note on a paper by Ogilvie: The interaction between waves and a submerged horizontal cylinder. J Fluid Mech 1999;394:355–356] to the case of random waves. In this paper, the wave force acting on the cylinder is investigated and the Froude Krylov force [Sarpkaya T, Isaacson M, Mechanics of wave forces on offshore structures, Van Nostrand Reinhold Co.; 1981], on the ideal water cylinder, is calculated from the random incident wave field. Both forces represent a Gaussian random process of time. The diffraction coefficient of the wave force is obtained as quotient between the standard deviations of the force on the solid cylinder and of the Froude Krylov force. It is found that the diffraction coefficient of the horizontal force C_do is equal to the C_dv of the vertical force. Finally, it is shown that, since a very large wave force occurs on the cylinder, it may be calculated, in time domain, starting from the Froude Krylov force. It is then shown that this result is due to the fact that the frequency spectrum of the force acting on the cylinder is nearly identical to that of the Froude–Krylov force.     

A comparison of weakly and fully non-linear models of the shoaling of a solitary internal wave

This study investigates the behaviour of internal solitary waves crossing a continental slope in the presence of a seasonal thermocline. Comparisons are made between a fully non-linear computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model, and weakly non-linear theory. Previous observations suggested that the amplitudes of solitary waves are capped as they pass across the continental slope, which may be due to laminar dynamics, or due to the effect of turbulence. Across the continental slope, CFD and second order variable depth KdV (vEKdV) predictions agree well with observations of a limited change in solitary wave amplitude. First order variable depth KdV theory overpredicts the final amplitude significantly. In terms of the wave shape, the CFD modeled wave changes from a KdV shape in deep water towards an EkdV solution in shallow water, as observations suggest. The phase speed of the CFD and vEKdV waves are similar to that observed in waters of 400–500 m deep, but are slightly lower than observed in 140 m depth. CFD predictions using a standard k, turbulence model showed that turbulence had little effect on the amplitude. These preliminary results indicate that in this situation wave capping is due to laminar, large amplitude solitary wave dynamics and is independent of turbulent mixing.     

Validating a turbulence closure against estuarine microstructure measurements

A simple k–ε turbulence closure is introduced which has no stability functions but instead a Richardson number-dependent turbulent Prandtl number. Its free parameters are determined in a comparison with microstructure observations from a stratified and sheared tidal estuary and laboratory measurements. The closure is able to simulate observed turbulent dissipation rates (ε) and turbulent length scales (l_th) in regions of strong mean shear and small gradient Richardson number (R_g) to within factors of 2–3. It fails in regions of small shear and large R_g, presumably because of the dominance of internal wave-driven mixing. Additional simulations with a k–ε closure with stability functions taken from Canuto et al. [Canuto, V.M., Howard, A., Cheng, Y., Dubovikov, M.S., 2001. Ocean turbulence I: one-point closure model. Momentum and heat vertical diffusivities. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 31, 1413–1426] and with the closure of Baumert and Peters [Baumert, H., Peters, H., 2004. Turbulence closure, steady state, and collapse into waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 34, 505–512] show poor performance. Establishing a valid 1:1 comparison of simulated and observed ε and l_th requires nudging the model velocity and density toward observed values because free model integrations quickly diverge from the observations. Steady state gradient Richardson numbers are constrained to a range of 0.18–0.25, while flux Richardson numbers are constrained to the range of 0.1–0.22. The closure output is rather insensitive to such parameter variations. The simulations are sensitive, however, to the treatment of the observed velocity and density used to nudge the model. Good closure performance requires averaging the measured tidal flow over about an hour, a time scale for which conventional numerical models of estuarine circulations should be able to match observed shears. In the closure simulations the TKE balance stays close to a production–dissipation balance. The time rate of change and vertical diffusion of TKE are small, of the same order of magnitude, and vary in magnitude relative to each other systematically across the water column.     

Floc size variability under strong turbulence: Observations and artificial neural network modeling

The flocculation of cohesive sediment in the presence of waves is investigated using high-resolution field observations and a newly-developed flocculation model based on artificial neural networks. Vertical profiles of suspended sediment concentration and turbulent intensity are estimated using measurements of current profile and acoustic backscatter. The vertical distribution of floc size is estimated using an artificial neural network (ANN) that is trained and validated using floc size measurements at one vertical level. Data analysis suggests a linear correlation between suspended sediment concentration and turbulence intensity. Observations and numerical simulations show that floc size is inversely related to sediment concentration, turbulence intensity and water temperature. The numerical results indicate that floc growth is supported by low concentration and low turbulence. In the vertical direction, mean size of flocs decreases toward the bottom, suggesting floc breakage due to increasing turbulence intensity toward the bed. A significant decrease in turbulent shear could occur within the bottom few-cm, related to increased damping of turbulence by sediment induced density stratification. The results of the numerical simulations presented here are consistent with the concept of a cohesive sediment particle undergoing aggregation-fragmentation processes, and suggest that the ANN can be a precise tool to study flocculation processes.     

Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.