未破碎变浅随机海浪的波面高度概率分布

利用青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室现代化的大型水槽,设计进行了多种海浪强度下,由深水传入近岸不同坡度水底上的变浅随机海浪的实验.依据实验资料分析结果表明,对变浅非正态海浪过程而言,其波面高度分布取Gram-Charlier级数前3项,所得结果与实验分布符合良好.该分布中σ、λ₃、λ₄3个参量是测点水深和波浪强度的函数,并获得了与无因次参量Hs/d之间的经验关系,为预测变浅随机海浪的波面高度分布提供了可能.     

Probability distribution of surface slope for nonlinear random sea waves and calculation of whitecap coverage

Based on the nonlinear model of two-dimensional random sea waves, a statistical distribution of wave surface slope exact to the third order is derived by using the expansion of the characteristic function and direct calculations of each order moment. Based on the distribution of wave surface slope derived in this paper, a whitecap coverage is proposed by using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking. The whitecap coverage expressed by the model depends on three parameters which can be determined in principle by the linear wave spectrum and three kinds of wave-wave interaction.     

波面位移非线性特征数值研究

基于Longuest-Higgins(1963)非线性海浪模型,在有限水深且存在均匀背景流的条件下,根据Song(2006)给出的波面位移二阶表达式,采用Combi海浪频谱计算了海表面定点波面位移时间序列和波面位移概率统计分布。分析了波面位移统计分布随风速、水深、反波龄和均匀背景流的变化特征和规律以及不同海况条件下二阶非线性项对波面位移统计分布的影响。结果表明:二阶非线性项使波面位移分布偏离正态分布,二阶非线性作用受风速、水深、反波龄和均匀背景流的影响。风速增大、水深降低、反波龄减小或者均匀背景流和风速传播方向相反均使波面位移二阶非线性项的作用加强,无因次波面位移概率密度分布的偏度和峰度随之增大,反之则二阶非线性项作用减弱。当均匀背景流和风速相同时,虽然使非线性项的作用减弱,但平均波面位移反而比静止水平面降低。当均匀背景流和风速相反时,虽然使非线性作用增强,但平均波面位移反而趋于静止水平面。得到如下结论:二阶非线性项对于波面位移有显著影响,数值模拟波面位移需要增加二阶非线性项。通过以上研究,提高了数值模拟波面位移的准确性,而波面位移是海浪最基本的特征量,从而增强了海浪模拟和预报的准确性,对海洋工程、海–气相互作用、上层海洋动力学等具有重要意义。     

未破碎变浅随机海浪的非线性模式

利用实测和实验室数据分析了未破碎变浅海浪波面高度分布三阶矩(或波面偏度)相对于Hs/d的空间演化,利用本文的经验关系,在二阶近似下,给出了以Hs/d为参量的非线性波面表示模式,并推导了功率谱、二阶谱以及波面高度分布函数等特征量.文中还讨论了波面偏度和峰度的相关关系.     

A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves

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三阶非线性海浪波面斜率的联合概率统计分布

从Longuet-Higgins于1963年建立的非线性随机海浪模型出发,对各向同性波面斜率的联台概率统计分布进行了理论研究.结果表明,在三阶近似下,波面斜率联合概率统计分有为截断的Gram-Charlier级数,截断的项数取决于非线性近似的阶数,每一阶近似均对前一阶近似结果有所修正如果不考虑非线性耦合相互作用的影响,则分布蜕化为高斯分布.     

随机海浪列率谱分析的实验研究

介绍了列率谱分析的两种谱估计方法;并矢周期图法和并矢相关法。通过实测资料比较表明,两种谱估计方法的计算结果基本一致。文中利用不同环境条件下的实验室资料对列率谱进行了分析,并与频谱的部分计算结果进行了比较,对其存在的差异给出了可能的物理解释。     

Probability distribution of random wave forces in weakly nonlinear random waves

Based on the second-order random wave theory, the joint statistical distribution of the horizontal velocity and acceleration is derived using the characteristic function expansion method. From the joint distribution and the Morison equation, the theoretical distributions of drag forces, inertia forces and total random wave forces are determined. The distribution of inertia forces is Gaussian as that derived using the linear wave model, whereas the distributions of drag forces and total random forces deviate slightly from those derived utilizing the linear wave model. It is found that the distribution of wave forces depends solely on the frequency spectrum of sea waves associated with the first order approximation and the second order wave–wave interaction.     

基于混合密度网络的NSCAT散射计海面风场反演

以NSCAT散射计数据为例,介绍了一种神经网络反演海面风场的方法.风速的反演是基于多层感知器网络;多解风向的反演是基于多层感知器网络和混合密度模型组合而成的混合密度网络,其中的核函数采用高斯函数的形式.通过与欧洲中期天气预报模式风场和现场浮标数据对比,证明了该神经网络反演海面风场的有效性.     

Distribution of wave crests in a non-Gaussian sea

The sea elevation at a fixed point is modelled as a quadratic form of a vector valued Gaussian process with arbitrary mean. With this model, saddlepoint methods are used to approximate the mean upcrossing intensity with which the sea level crosses upwards at a certain height. This estimated intensity is further used to determine the probability distribution of wave crests. The use of saddlepoint technique is particularly important here because it can approximate the crest distribution without the need to perform simulations or use fitted distributions. Several numerical examples are given, including two with measured data. In the cases of real data, the results obtained with the saddlepoint technique are also compared with the results obtained with well known methods commonly used in the industry.     

台风背景下海浪对海表流场和海表温度的影响

海浪作为海-气界面中重要的物理过程,对海洋上混合层的近表面分布具有重要作用。本文以台风"威马逊"和"麦德姆"为背景,基于FVCOM耦合模式模拟了台风浪及上层海洋的响应过程,探讨了海浪对海表流场和海表温度的影响。结果表明耦合模式能够较准确地模拟出有效波高,台风过境后海表流场在海浪的作用下反映出与台风相对应的气旋性特性,改变的流场量级可达0.4 m/s;海表温度出现不同程度的下降,最大降温约4℃,最大降温中心与流场变化区域相对应,且降温区相对台风路径呈显著的"右偏性"。最大降温滞后台风中心过境2 d左右,恢复时间一般超过10 d,与实况相吻合。     

基于随机森林方法反演墨西哥湾海表盐度

盐度是表征物理和生物地球化学过程的重要参数之一,光学遥感可满足较高分辨率的监测需要并避免射频干扰问题,为沿海水域的海表盐度研究提供可行的途径。本文基于MODIS-Aqua的412 nm、443 nm、488 nm、555 nm和667 nm波段的遥感反射率(Rrs412、Rrs443、Rrs488、Rrs555、Rrs667)、海表温度以及实测的海表盐度数据构建随机森林模型,基于模型结果分析墨西哥湾海表盐度时空异质性及海表盐度与影响因子(海表温度和遥感反射率)之间的相关关系。研究结果表明：(1)随机森林模型能较准确地反演墨西哥湾海表盐度,其均方根误差为0.335,决定系数为0.931;(2)湾区海表盐度空间分布呈近岸−河口低、离岸高,环状向内增值的态势,其变化受河流流量、风力以及环流的影响;(3)海表温度与海表盐度存在较强的相关性,海表温度对海表盐度的反演影响显著;(4)海表温度、遥感反射率与海表盐度的相关性呈现空间异质性。     

次重力波对宽刈幅高度计海表面高度观测的影响

次重力波(Infragravity Wave,IGW)是一种频率较低(0.05～0.005 Hz),波长较长(约10 km)的表面重力波。由IGW引起的海表面高度变化会被宽刈幅干涉高度计SWOT(Surface Water and Ocean Topography,SWOT)卫星观测到,因此在使用SWOT观测的海表面高度来反演中尺度、次中尺度大洋环流时,IGW是一种重要的误差来源。根据数值模型模拟的全球IGW时空分布特征,本文以IGW最为活跃的东北太平洋和欧洲西北陆架附近大西洋为研究海域,估算了上述海域由IGW所引起的海表面高度变化,并将计算结果与SWOT Simulator模拟的轨道噪声(±5 cm)比较,首次定量地估算了IGW在SWOT观测海表面高度时的干扰程度。研究表明,IGW所引起的厘米量级的海表面高度变化在SWOT卫星观测海表面流场时是一种重要的,不可忽略的误差来源。在大西洋欧洲西北陆架海域,冬季IGW对海表面高度的贡献可达到SWOT卫星噪声要求水平的25%;然而,对于大陆架狭窄的美国西岸太平洋而言,由岸线产生的IGW将迅速传入深海海域,在广阔的范围内产生显著的"噪声"影响,在SWOT反演海表面流场时由IGW引起的误差将达到SWOT卫星噪声要求水平的15%。     

Long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses beneath random waves

The long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses under random waves is presented. The approach combines short-term distribution of maximum bottom shear stresses with a joint frequency table of significant wave height and peak period. An example of application is given where the long-term probability of exceeding a given level of the maximum bottom shear stress in the central North Sea is presented. The example includes estimation of the return period of the critical shear stress for sheet flow conditions, as well as the bottom shear stresses associated with the 1, 10 and 100 years return periods.     

埕北海域底质沉积物粒度分布特征及其动力环境意义

通过分析181个埕北海域底质沉积物样品的粒度资料,并应用Flemming三角图示法对研究区进行沉积动力环境分区,结果表明:研究区底质沉积物主要为粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂、粉砂和黏土质粉砂4种类型,整体上由岸向海粒度呈现细-粗-细的分布特征,且呈条带状与岸线平行;粒度相对较粗,粒径频率曲线多以单峰为主,分选中等偏差,多为正偏;沉积动力环境分区表明该海域沉积物多以悬浮和跃移为主;粒度特征和沉积动力强度以6 m和12 m等深线为轴对称分布,12 m水深等值线两侧沉积物的分布类型和运移趋势主要受季节的风浪变化控制,6 m水深等值线两侧沉积物分布和运移趋势主要受波浪破碎的紊流作用控制。     

随机波浪下斯托克司漂移速度是否引起水面漂移物离散的研究

漂浮于自由水面的污染物的的迁移、扩散会受到天然随机海浪的影响。之前的研究（以Herterich和Hasselmann（1982）为代表）普遍认为,随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度会引起水面污染物的离散,这个离散甚至有可能跟风和海流引起的离散同一量级。本研究就随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度是否会引起水面漂移物的离散进行理论和试验探讨。从理论推导可知,随机波浪下的质量输移速度是个定常分量,因此它不会随时间变化而引起水面漂移物的离散。随后我们在实验室水槽中进行了漂移物在随机波浪（P-M谱）作用下的漂移过程的测量。试验结果也印证了随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度不会引起水面漂移物离散的结论。     

热带气旋快速加强与海表温度分布统计特征研究

为加强海表温度对热带气旋快速加强影响的认识,利用中国气象局上海台风研究所整编的热带气旋最佳路径数据集和欧洲中尺度天气预报中心提供的海温数据,选取1979−2019年期间的西北太平洋热带气旋,统计分析了海温和热带气旋强度快速变化的特征。研究结果表明：（1）约90%的热带气旋快速加强发生在夏季和秋季,分别占快速加强总次数的32.8%和56.4%,绝大部分热带气旋以跨越1个强度等级的快速加强为主,由强热带风暴快速加强到台风和由台风快速加强到强台风是出现次数较多的两种情况。（2）夏季大于28℃,秋季大于27.5℃的海表温度条件有利于热带气旋快速加强,较低强度等级的热带气旋需要更高的海表温度（> 29℃）才易出现快速加强;热带气旋快速移动有利于其中心处海温维持较高状态。（3）海温的时间变率在±0.2℃/(6 h)内,水平空间梯度低于0.4℃/(°)是热带气旋快速加强的有利条件;热带气旋强度越强,越需要平稳的海表温度环境。（4）热带气旋处于强热带风暴及以上级别时,仅利用海表温度条件对其是否发生快速加强的判断准确性较好。这一工作量化了有利于热带气旋加强的海表温度环境,为业务上基于海表温度定量预报热带气旋强度演变提供了一种技术参考。     

SMAP卫星海表盐度产品的检验与校正

In this study, sea surface salinity(SSS) Level 3(L3) daily product derived from soil moisture active passive(SMAP)during the year 2016, was validated and compared with SSS daily products derived from soil Moisture and ocean salinity(SMOS) and in-situ measurements. Generally, the root mean square error(RMSE) of the daily SSS products is larger along the coastal areas and at high latitudes and is smaller in the tropical regions and open oceans. Comparisons between the two types of daily satellite SSS product revealed that the RMSE was higher in the daily SMOS product than in the SMAP, whereas the bias of the daily SMOS was observed to be less than that of the SMAP when compared with Argo floats data. In addition, the latitude-dependent bias and RMSE of the SMAP SSS were found to be primarily influenced by the precipitation and the sea surface temperature(SST). Then, a regression analysis method which has adopted the precipitation and SST data was used to correct the larger bias of the daily SMAP product. It was confirmed that the corrected daily SMAP product could be used for assimilation in high-resolution forecast models, due to the fact that it was demonstrated to be unbiased and much closer to the in-situ measurements than the original uncorrected SMAP product.     

南海北部海面风速概率分布特征

利用南海北部的浮标、石油平台观测的海面风资料,分析了0~200 km范围内,不同离岸距离站点的风速的概率分布特征。观测结果指出,各站平均风速一般最大值出现在冬季,最小值出现在夏季,具有明显的季节变化特征,并且平均风速随着离岸距离的增大也逐渐增大。对于离岸距离较近的区域（100 km以内）,海面风基本符合双参数的Weibull分布,但对于100 km以外的海面风速概率分布与Weibull分布存在明显差异,随着离岸距离的增大,平均风速和风速标准偏差也相应增大。风速平均值与风速标准偏差的比值较小时,Weibull分布的偏斜度基本为正值,当比值较大时偏斜度转为负值。随着离岸距离的增大,出现与Weibull分布不一致的情况越来越多,且与对应的Weibull分布相比,其偏斜度越小,风速概率分布越不能用Weibull分布进行较好拟合。     

Estimation of the bispectra and phase distribution of storm sea states with abnormal waves

This work deals with the estimation of the bispectrum of wind waves during severe storms containing abnormal or freak waves. It presents the basic definitions of higher-order spectra and of the bispectra in particular and further suggests how to interpret some of the results to identify non-linearity in the wave time series. Different estimation methods are used and compared so as to identify the differences in the estimated bispectra that results from the estimation procedure and the ones that result from the physics of the sea states. It is found that as a result of the second-order self-coupling the phase distribution of the wind wave during the severe storms differs from the uniform one and is well approximated by the distribution proposed by Tayfun and Lo [1989. Envelope, phase and narrow-band models of sea waves. Journal of Waterway Port Coast and Ocean Engineering 115(5), 594–613.].