基于混合密度网络的NSCAT散射计海面风场反演

以NSCAT散射计数据为例,介绍了一种神经网络反演海面风场的方法.风速的反演是基于多层感知器网络;多解风向的反演是基于多层感知器网络和混合密度模型组合而成的混合密度网络,其中的核函数采用高斯函数的形式.通过与欧洲中期天气预报模式风场和现场浮标数据对比,证明了该神经网络反演海面风场的有效性.     

Distribution of wave crests in a non-Gaussian sea

The sea elevation at a fixed point is modelled as a quadratic form of a vector valued Gaussian process with arbitrary mean. With this model, saddlepoint methods are used to approximate the mean upcrossing intensity with which the sea level crosses upwards at a certain height. This estimated intensity is further used to determine the probability distribution of wave crests. The use of saddlepoint technique is particularly important here because it can approximate the crest distribution without the need to perform simulations or use fitted distributions. Several numerical examples are given, including two with measured data. In the cases of real data, the results obtained with the saddlepoint technique are also compared with the results obtained with well known methods commonly used in the industry.     

未破碎变浅随机海浪的波面高度概率分布

利用青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室现代化的大型水槽,设计进行了多种海浪强度下,由深水传入近岸不同坡度水底上的变浅随机海浪的实验.依据实验资料分析结果表明,对变浅非正态海浪过程而言,其波面高度分布取Gram-Charlier级数前3项,所得结果与实验分布符合良好.该分布中σ、λ₃、λ₄3个参量是测点水深和波浪强度的函数,并获得了与无因次参量Hs/d之间的经验关系,为预测变浅随机海浪的波面高度分布提供了可能.     

Long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses beneath random waves

The long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses under random waves is presented. The approach combines short-term distribution of maximum bottom shear stresses with a joint frequency table of significant wave height and peak period. An example of application is given where the long-term probability of exceeding a given level of the maximum bottom shear stress in the central North Sea is presented. The example includes estimation of the return period of the critical shear stress for sheet flow conditions, as well as the bottom shear stresses associated with the 1, 10 and 100 years return periods.     

埕北海域底质沉积物粒度分布特征及其动力环境意义

通过分析181个埕北海域底质沉积物样品的粒度资料,并应用Flemming三角图示法对研究区进行沉积动力环境分区,结果表明:研究区底质沉积物主要为粉砂质砂、砂质粉砂、粉砂和黏土质粉砂4种类型,整体上由岸向海粒度呈现细-粗-细的分布特征,且呈条带状与岸线平行;粒度相对较粗,粒径频率曲线多以单峰为主,分选中等偏差,多为正偏;沉积动力环境分区表明该海域沉积物多以悬浮和跃移为主;粒度特征和沉积动力强度以6 m和12 m等深线为轴对称分布,12 m水深等值线两侧沉积物的分布类型和运移趋势主要受季节的风浪变化控制,6 m水深等值线两侧沉积物分布和运移趋势主要受波浪破碎的紊流作用控制。     

Estimation of the bispectra and phase distribution of storm sea states with abnormal waves

This work deals with the estimation of the bispectrum of wind waves during severe storms containing abnormal or freak waves. It presents the basic definitions of higher-order spectra and of the bispectra in particular and further suggests how to interpret some of the results to identify non-linearity in the wave time series. Different estimation methods are used and compared so as to identify the differences in the estimated bispectra that results from the estimation procedure and the ones that result from the physics of the sea states. It is found that as a result of the second-order self-coupling the phase distribution of the wind wave during the severe storms differs from the uniform one and is well approximated by the distribution proposed by Tayfun and Lo [1989. Envelope, phase and narrow-band models of sea waves. Journal of Waterway Port Coast and Ocean Engineering 115(5), 594–613.].     

南海北部海面风速概率分布特征

利用南海北部的浮标、石油平台观测的海面风资料,分析了0~200 km范围内,不同离岸距离站点的风速的概率分布特征。观测结果指出,各站平均风速一般最大值出现在冬季,最小值出现在夏季,具有明显的季节变化特征,并且平均风速随着离岸距离的增大也逐渐增大。对于离岸距离较近的区域（100 km以内）,海面风基本符合双参数的Weibull分布,但对于100 km以外的海面风速概率分布与Weibull分布存在明显差异,随着离岸距离的增大,平均风速和风速标准偏差也相应增大。风速平均值与风速标准偏差的比值较小时,Weibull分布的偏斜度基本为正值,当比值较大时偏斜度转为负值。随着离岸距离的增大,出现与Weibull分布不一致的情况越来越多,且与对应的Weibull分布相比,其偏斜度越小,风速概率分布越不能用Weibull分布进行较好拟合。     

利用海骚回波推测海面风浪

本文根据我国海岸雷达的实际情况,提出了直接测量海骚回波强度和直接测定海骚回波最大距离的方法,并利用实测资料,建立了最大风速与海骚回波最大距离的相关关系式及海骚回波最大距离与海面风浪关系曲线。     

The Kuroshio Extension Front from satellite sea surface temperature measurements

The position and strength of the surface Kuroshio Extension Front (KEF), defined as the sea surface temperature (SST) gradient maximum adjacent to the Kuroshio Extension (KE) axis (approximated by a specific SSH contour consistently located at, or near, the maximum of the SSH gradient magnitude), have been studied using weekly, microwave SST measurements from the later 1997 to early 2008. The mean KEF meanders twice around ∼36°N between the east coast of Japan and 153°E. It then migrates southeast to ∼34°N, just before reaching the Shatsky Rise (∼158°E), then progresses mostly eastward. Spatially, the KEF is strongest near the Japan coast, while it is seasonally strongest in winter and weakest in summer. Low-frequency variations of its strength, most notably in its upstream region, can be related to the known bimodal states of the KE. During 2003–2005, when the KE was in its stable state, the winter KEF SST gradient exceeded 10°C/100 km.     

Laboratory study of the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a mild slope

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.     

台湾海峡海表面温度的遥感反演及精度检验

海表面温度(SST)是海洋-大气系统中一个十分关键的物理量。SST为海洋学课题的研究提供了一种直观的指示量[1],在海洋捕捞中SST是寻找中心渔场的指标之一,可为渔业部门提供鱼类的回游路线和渔场的位置信息[2]。SST制约着海面和大气的热量、动量和水汽交换,是研究大气环流和气候变化[3]甚至台风移动路径[4]等气象学课题的一个重要因子。因此,SST在海洋学和气象学研究中占有非常重要的地位,此外SST对海洋运输、海洋污染、海上油气资源开发、海滨核电站建设等方面的影响近年来也倍受关注。     

卫星遥感南海海表面日增温的时空变化特征

利用搭载在Aqua和Terra卫星上的MODIS(moderate resolution imaging spectroradiometer)、AMSR-E(advanced microwave scanning radiometer for the earth observing system)传感器测量反演的昼夜海表温度(SST),计算海表面日增温(sea surface diurnal warming),分析南海海表面日增温的短期和年变动特征。受观测平台过境时间、传感器测量SST方式、反演算法等影响,MODIS/Aqua计算的日增温幅度略大于AMSR-E/Aqua和MODIS/Terra,但在表征南海海表面日增温的时空分布特征以及变化趋势上三者并未见显著性差异。南海海表面日增温在时间分布上以冬季为最小,春季为最大;在空间分布上则是南部海域大于中部和北部海域,东部海域大于西部海域。春夏之交的吕宋海峡西北部尤其容易发生日增温事件。海表面日增温与太阳辐射、风速、云量等影响有关,其中风速与海表面日增温显著负相关。     

Simulating nonlinear waves on the free surface in surf zones with two-dimensional sloping beach

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface in shallow water and over slopes of various geometries are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. Either linear or Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with various wave periods and sea bottom slopes in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing computational and experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.     

风对中国东部海域海平面季节变化的影响

应用ROMS数值模式配置基本实验模拟了2004年到2006年中国东部海域海平面的季节变化。模拟结果与TOPEX／Poseidon（T／P）卫星高度计观测结果基本一致,海平面年较差从中国沿岸到黑潮路径逐渐变小。将数值模式的风应力项去掉,配置对比实验。与基本实验结果对比发现,对比实验海平面仍然具有季节变化,但是闽浙沿岸和苏北沿岸海平面春夏季异常偏低、秋冬季异常偏高现象消失,中国沿岸向太平洋的海平面变化减弱。春季和秋季,渤、黄海和黑潮附近海平面异于东海的现象减弱。对比实验海平面的年较差的数值明显减小,从近岸向黑潮海平面年较差渐变的过程消失。整个渤黄海的海平面年较差近似。对比实验海平面年较差占基本实验海平面年较差比率从近岸向黑潮路径逐渐增大。     

海面阻力系数的流体力学研究

利用相似理论的方法 ,把解决湍流问题的尼古拉兹曲线引入到风应力的计算中。阐明了决定海面阻力系数的关键因素是海浪的平均波高及摩擦层厚度 ,并推出了它们之间的关系式。     

SMAP卫星海表盐度产品精度评定与全球海表盐度特征分析

海表盐度是研究海洋变化及其气候效应重要的物理量。本文将2018年SMAP卫星的月均、日均海表盐度产品分别与Argo月均网格化产品、实时散点盐度数据进行比较,评定其精度,并分析全球海表盐度分布特征。结果表明：SMAP卫星月均产品RMSE为0.17,BIAS为0.11,STD为0.17,R为0.98,t检验呈显著相关;SMAP卫星日均产品RMSE为0.28,BIAS为0.23,STD为0.26,R为0.81,相较月均产品,精度较低。SMAP卫星月均产品偏差在中纬度海域较小,在高纬度海域较大;SMAP卫星日均产品偏差在太平洋海域为-0.6~0.6,在地中海海域超过1.0。全球海表盐度在25.0~40.0之间,沿纬度方向呈带状分布,其中大西洋海表盐度普遍高于太平洋和印度洋。     

Application of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model to shallow water recurrence effects in random waves

The effect of ambient currents on nearshore nonlinear wave–wave energy transfer in random waves is studied with the use of a nonlinear frequency domain wave–current interaction model. We focus on the phenomenon of wave recurrence as a classical nonlinear phenomenon whose characteristics are well established for systems truncated to small numbers of frequency modes. The model used for this study is first extended to enhance accuracy; comparisons of permanent form solutions to analytical forms confirm the model accuracy. Application of the model to a highly truncated system confirmed the model’s consistency with published results for both positive (following) and negative (adverse) currents. Propagation of random wave spectra over a flat bottom was performed with the model, with the intent of determining the prevalence of recurrence between the spectral peak and its harmonics. For spectra of moderate Ursell number, it was found that positive currents extended the length scale of recurrence relative to the case with no currents; conversely, negative currents reduced the recurrence lengths. However, beyond a propagation distance of ≈40 wavelengths of the spectral peak, recurrence becomes almost completely damped as the spectra becomes broad and the spectral energies equilibrate. For spectra of high Ursell number, in contrast, recurrence is almost immediately damped, suggesting that the nonlinearity is sufficient to allow immediate spectral broadening and equilibration and overwhelming any preferential interactions among the spectral peak and its harmonics, regardless of current magnitude or direction.     

Numerical study of a round buoyant jet under the effect of JONSWAP random waves

This paper presents a numerical study on the hydrodynamic behaviours of a round buoyant jet under the effect of JONSWAP random waves. A three-dimensional large eddy simulation (LES) model is developed to simulate the buoyant jet in a stagnant ambient and JONSWAP random waves. By comparison of velocity and concentration fields, it is found that the buoyant jet exhibits faster decay of centerline velocity, wider lateral spreading and larger initial dilution under the wave effect, indicating that wave dynamics improves the jet entrainment and mixing in the near field, and subsequently mitigate the jet impacts in the far field. The effect of buoyancy force on the jet behaviours in the random waves is also numerically investigated. The results show that the wave effect on the jet entrainment and mixing is considerably weakened under the existence of buoyancy force, resulting in a slower decay rate of centerline velocity and a narrower jet width for the jet with initial buoyancy.     

GPS浮标数据反演海浪谱的理论仿真与试验验证

GPS浮标作为一种新型的海洋测量设备,近年来在海面高度现场测量和星载高度计定标方面取得了重要应用。通过仿真试验对反演海浪谱的方法和流程进行研究,旨在探索从GPS浮标测量的海面高度序列中提取海浪谱的方法。首先,使用Longuest模型生成了海浪波面位移时间序列,并通过Pierson-Moscowitz风浪谱对波面位移的统计特性进行约束,其随机性由相位引入。结合典型潮汐和GPS浮标仪器噪声的仿真时间序列,合成了仿真时间长度1h的1Hz(每秒1次)随机海面高度序列。然后,利用自相关函数法,进行高通滤波和数据压缩,得到了仿真的海浪谱。该仿真结果和理论海浪谱非常接近,可满足海浪谱反演的需求。最后,通过山东石岛外海的GPS浮标现场试验,验证了本文提出的反演方法的适用性。本文的研究解决了GPS浮标反演海浪谱的关键问题,丰富了海浪谱反演的手段,拓展了GPS浮标的应用领域,有望为未来我国的星载波谱仪定标服务。