Investigation of the effects of offshore breakwater parameters on sediment accumulation

Littoral sediment transport is the main reason for coastal erosion and accretion. Therefore, various types of structures are used in shore protection and littoral sediment trapping studies. Offshore breakwaters are one of these structures. Construction of offshore breakwaters is one of the main countermeasures against beach erosion. In this paper, offshore protection process is studied on the effect of offshore breakwater parameters (length, distance and gap), wave parameters (height, period and angle) and on sediment accumulation ratio, one researched in a physical model. In addition to the experimental studies, numerical model in which the formulae of the sediment discharge (i.e. the formulae of CERC and Kamphuis), was used was developed and employed. The results of the experimental and numerical studies were compared with each other.     

碟形越浪式波能发电装置的三维数值模拟

基于计算流体力学软件的三维数值模拟技术,分析了碟形越浪式波能发电装置的越浪性能,通过构建基于水气两相VOF(Volume of Fluid)模型的三维数值波浪水槽对该装置进行三维数值模拟研究,数值计算结果与物理试验结果相互对比验证较为吻合,验证了所构建的三维数值波浪水槽的可靠性,通过考察装置的坡度、导流叶片个数、干舷高度对越浪性能的影响确定装置的最优结构参数。结果表明,在装置的斜坡面边缘增加回流板可减少波浪的反射,提高装置的越浪性能。在数值模拟中将装置的斜坡面边缘处安装回流板对碟形越浪式波能发电装置参数进行优化,通过分析回流板的长度对装置越浪性能的影响来探索最优回流板长度。     

Numerical study of air chamber for oscillating water column wave energy convertor

Oscillating Water Column (OWC) wave energy converting system is one of the most widely used facilities all over the world.The air chamber is utilized to convert the wave energy into the pneumatic energy.The numerical wave tank based on the two-phase VOF model is established in the present study to investigate the operating performance of OWC air chamber.The RANS equations,standard k-ε turbulence model and dynamic mesh technology are employed in the numerical model.The effects of incident wave conditions and shape parameters on the wave energy converting efficiency are studied and the capability of the present numerical wave tank on the corresponding engineering application is validated.     

A numerical model for wave propagation in curvilinear coordinates

Using the perturbation method, a time dependent parabolic equation is developed based on the elliptic mild slope equation with dissipation term. With the time dependent parabolic equation employed as the governing equation, a numerical model for wave propagation including dissipation term in water of slowly varying topography is presented in curvilinear coordinates. In the model, the self-adaptive grid generation method is employed to generate a boundary-fitted and varying spacing mesh. The numerical tests show that the effects of dissipation term should be taken into account if the distance of wave propagation is large, and that the outgoing boundary conditions can be treated more effectively by introduction of the dissipation term into the numerical model. The numerical model is able to give good results of simulating wave propagation for waters of complicatedly boundaries and effectively predict physical processes of wave propagation. Moreover, the errors of the analytical solution deduced by Kirby et al. (1994) [Kirby, J.T., Dalrymple, R.A., Kabu, H., 1994. Parabolic approximation for water waves in conformal coordinate systems. Coastal Engineering 23, 185–213.] from the small-angle parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation for the case of waves between diverging breakwaters in a polar coordinate system are corrected.     

港域波浪数学模型的改进与验证

通过物理模型对改进的港内波浪传播变形数学模型进行验证。该数学模型以推广的时变缓坡方程为控制方程,采用含松弛因子的ADI法求解,并对波浪反射和透射边界模拟方法进行改进。先通过物理模型试验确定斜向浪入射条件下抛石防波堤前的波浪反射系数,作为数学模型中部分反射边界模拟的依据。然后进行了一个典型港口内波浪折射、绕射和反射的模型试验,测量港内波浪分布。对比模型试验和数学模型计算的结果表明,数学模型可较好地模拟港内复杂地形和边界条件下规则波和不规则波的传播变形。     

Verification of A Numerical Harbour Wave Model

A numerical model for wave propagation in a harbour is verified by use of physical models.The extended time-dependent mild slope equation is employed as the governing equation,and the model is solved by use of ADI method containing the relaxation factor.Firstly,the reflection coefficient of waves in front of rubble-mound breakwaters under oblique incident waves is determined through physical model tests,and it is regarded as the basis for simulating partial reflection boundaries of the numerical model.Then model tests on refraction,diffraction and reflection of waves in a harbour are performed to measure wave height distribution.Comparative results between physical and numerical model tests show that the present numerical model can satisfactorily simulate the propagation of regular and irregular waves in a harbour with complex topography and boundary conditions.     

Wave Run-up on A Vertical Seawall Protected by An Offshore Submerged Barrier

Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is analyzed. The physical configurations include a rigid barrier and a long channel of finite depth. For linear water waves, by matching the velocity along the barrier and along the gap, the systems of linear equations about the velocity potentials are obtained. The wave run-up is further analyzed for various settings of barrier height and distance between the barrier and the wall, i.e. the chamber length. For nonlinear waves and random sea waves, a numerical model is extended to investigate the effect parameters of the barrier on the wave run-up against the seawall. Not only the numerical simulations, but also the analytical results illustrate that the wave run-up on the seawall depends very much on the distance between the barrier and the vertical seawall.     

非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型及其实验验证

以一种新型的Boussinesq型方程为控制方程组,采用五阶Runge-Kutta-England格式离散时间积分,采用七点差分格式离散空间导数,并通过采用恰当的出流边界条件,从而建立了非线性波传播的新型数值模拟模型.通过对均匀水深水域内波浪传播的数值模拟说明,模型能较好地模拟大水深水域和强非线性波的传播.通过设置不同的入射波参数来进行潜堤地形上波浪传播的物理模型实验,并将数值解与物理模型实验结果进行了比较.     

One-dimensional numerical models of higher-order Boussinesq equations with high dispersion accuracy

Abstract-Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally andnumerically. The applicability of the wave propagation model of higher-order Boussinesq equations de-rived by Zou(2000, Ocean Engneering, 27, 557～575) is investigated. Physical experiments areconducted; three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set-up in the experimentand their effects on the wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of the numerical results withtest data are made and the higher-order Boussinesq equations agree well with the measurements since thedispersion of the model is of high accuracy. The numerical results show that the good results can also beobtained for the steep-slope cases although the mild-slope assumption is employed in the derivation of thehigher-order terms in the higher-order Boussinesq equations.     

Physical simulation of multidirectional irregular wave groups

Real waves are multidirectional waves.In the present study,the calculation method for the wave maker driving signals for generating multidirectional wave groups in physical wave basin is proposed.Its validity is first confirmed by a numerical model for which the incident boundary condition is determined by use of the proposed method.Then,the physical simulation of multidirectional wave groups is performed in laboratory wave basin.The experimental results show that multidirectional waves with expected wave groupiness,which includes not only its group height but also its group length,can be satisfactorily generated at the specified position in the physical wave basin.     

网衣对波浪传播影响的三维数值模拟

为研究网衣对波浪传播的影响,采用多孔介质模型模拟网衣,建立了模拟网衣与波浪相互作用的三维数值波浪水槽模型。基于该数值模型研究了波浪经过网衣作用后波高衰减的变化规律,并与物理模型试验结果进行比较。通过对比数值模拟和物理模型试验的结果,证明了该三维数值模型模拟网衣对波浪传播影响的可行性。     

Second-order coupling of numerical and physical wave tanks for 2D irregular waves. Part II: Experimental validation in two-dimensions

This paper provides an experimental validation of the second-order coupling theory outlined by Yang et al. (Z. Yang, S. Liu, H.B. Bingham and J. Li., 2013. Second-order coupling of numerical and physical wave tanks for 2D irregular waves. Part I: Formulation, implementation and numerical properties, submitted for publication) using 2D irregular waves. This work provides a second-order dispersive correction for the physical wavemaker signal which improves the nonlinear transfer of information between the numerical and physical models compared to the first-order method of Zhang et al. (2007). The important nonlinear parameters and numerical performance were theoretically investigated in Part I. In the present Part II, careful experimental validation is carried out using a sequence of progressively more complex analytical and numerical target waves. The results demonstrate clearly that improved performance is achieved by using the second-order correction. When controlling with a second-order coupling signal, two key points are notable: (i) The higher harmonics underlying the numerical waves are accurately captured and transferred into the physical model. (ii) The second-order behavior leads to an unwanted spurious freely propagating second harmonic that is substantially reduced when compared to an identical wave paddle operating with a first-order coupling signal. Using nonlinear regular (monochromatic), bi-chromatic and irregular wave cases as well as varying coupled wave tank bathymetries, both these aspects are verified over a broad range of wave frequencies and shown to be extensively applicable to physical wave tanks.     

Underwater spreading and surface drifting of oil spilled from a submarine pipeline under the combined action of wave and current

Tremendous economic loss and environmental damages are caused by oil-spilling accidents in sea. Accurate prediction of the underwater spreading and surface drifting of oil spills is important for the emergency response. In the present study, numerical investigation on the underwater spread and surface drift of oil spilled from a submarine pipeline under the combined action of wave and current was carried out to examine the effects of physical ocean environment, leaking flux and spilled oil density and viscosity. Reynolds-Averaged-Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations, realizable k-ε turbulence model and volume of fluid (VOF) model are employed to describe the multiphase flow, and velocity-boundary wave-making technique combined with the sponge layer damping absorber technique realizes the numerical wave flume. Oil spill experiments were conducted to validate the numerical model. The calculation results indicate that compared with the environmental conditions of still water, only current and only wave, a larger scope of underwater spreading and relatively slower rising rate and relatively faster drifting rate of oil droplets are observed under the combined action of wave and current. The leaking flux affects the floating time and dispersion concentration, while the ocean environment affects the horizontal migration and surface drifting. Under the specific conditions of present work, oil density has obvious effect on the underwater spread but limited effect on the surface drifting, while oil viscosity has little effect on both the two processes.     

方向分布对三维聚焦波浪波面特性影响研究

波浪聚焦被认为是产生极限波浪的重要机理之一,近年来受到普遍重视。通过高阶谱方法,引入造波边界建立数值计算模型,模拟聚焦波浪在不同方向分布时的产生和聚焦过程,研究波浪的方向分布对聚焦波浪的波面、波峰最大值、聚焦点的偏移、波面参数及频谱的影响。研究结果表明波浪方向分布越窄,波浪的非线性影响越强、波面越陡,波峰值、聚焦点的偏移和波面特征参数都越大;同时方向分布对波浪聚焦前后的能量具有很大的影响。     

基于VOF模型的OWC气室波浪场数值分析

近年来,振荡水柱形式在波能转换装置中得到了广泛应用,由于波况不同,需对气室加以研究并对其形状参量进行优化,从而使空气流速和能量转换达到最大值.利用基于VOF模型建立二维数值波浪水槽,将数值计算的振荡水柱在气室内的升沉运动与物理模型试验进行比较,验证其正确性,并将OWC气室的研究手段予以推广.     

Numerical Simulation of Waves Generated by Seafloor Movements

Waves generated by vertical seafloor movements are simulated by use of a fully nonlinear two-dimensional numerical wave tank. In the souree region, the seafloor lifts to a designated height by a generation function. The numerical tests show that the linear theory is only valid for estimating the wave behaviors induced by the seafloor movements with a small amplitude, and the fully nonlinear numerical model should be adopted in the simulation of the wave generation by the large amplitude seafloor movements. Without the background surface waves, many numerical tests on the stable maximum elevations η0^max are carried out by beth the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. The results of two models are compared and analyzed. For the fully nonlinear model, the influences of the amplitudes and the horizontal lengths on η^max are stronger than that of the characteristic duration times. Furthermore, results reveal that there are significant differences be- tween the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model. When the influences of the background surface waves are considered, the corresponding numerical analyses reveal that with the fully nonlinear model the η0^max near-linearly varies with the wave amplitudes of the surface waves, and the η0^max has significant dependences on the wave lengths and the wave phases of the surface waves. In addition, the differences between the linear theory and the fully nonlinear model are still obvious, and these differences are significantly affected by the wave parameters of the background surface waves, such as the wave amplitude, the wave length and the wave phase.     

基于拟层流风波生成机制的海浪谱模型

海浪谱的能量可以视为由具有不同相速度的谐波携带的能量所组成。基于对风波形成、发展过程的认识,认为各组成谐波的能量由谐波自平均风摄取而来,由此根据拟层流模型推导出谐波能量密度的计算公式,建立以等效风速和峰值频率等为基本参数的海浪谱模型——随机Fourier函数模型,并给出了确定谐波频率、波长、相速度、振幅以及等效风速等模型参数的原则和计算方法。在59个实测样本谱基础上,采用随机建模方法确定模型参数的取值及其概率分布。结果表明,海浪谱模型可以很好地预测谱能,所计算的物理谱与实测谱均值吻合良好。     

Benchmark computations of wave run-up on single cylinder and four cylinders by naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver

The benchmark simulations of wave run-up on a fixed single truncated circular cylinder and four circular cylinders are presented in this paper. Our in-house CFD solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU is adopted which is an unsteady two-phase CFD code based on the open source package OpenFOAM. The Navier-Stokes equations are employed as the governing equations, and the volume of fluid (VOF) method is applied for capturing the free surface. Monochromatic incident waves with the specified wave period and wave height are simulated and wave run-up heights around the cylinder are computed and recorded with numerical virtual wave probes. The relationship between the wave run-up heights and the incident wave parameters are analyzed. The numerical results indicate that the presented naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver can provide accurate predictions for the wave run-up on one fixed cylinder and four cylinders, which has been proved by the comparison of simulated results with experimental data.     

基于SPH方法的开孔沉箱比尺效应研究

由于在前壁上设置了尺寸较小的孔,开孔沉箱受流体黏性力作用显著,依照弗劳德数相似准则设计模型存在比尺效应。为揭示比尺效应,建立了模拟波浪与开孔沉箱相互作用的光滑粒子流体动力学(SPH)模型。其中流体运动由连续性方程和Navier-Stokes方程控制,固壁边界由改进的动力边界粒子施加。模型收敛性通过分析不同粒子分辨率下的波浪反射系数得到,模型精度通过比较计算与理论波浪反射系数证明。使用经过验证的SPH模型,计算并比较了不同几何比尺和开孔率下开孔沉箱附近的涡量场、箱体外侧的波面时程曲线和波浪反射系数。结果表明,随着模型几何比尺的减小,开孔沉箱受到偏大的流体黏性力,致使更多波能在湍流运动中耗散,进而减小了波浪反射系数并降低了箱体外侧的波面高度。     

Study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs based on a shock-capturing Boussinesq model

This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter.