龙口市人工岛周边海域波浪场和水动力场的数值模拟

为了科学的分析离岸人工岛群对周边海岸动力的影响,本文以龙口市人工岛为例,运用MIKE21数值模拟软件建立了龙口离岸人工岛及附近海域的水动力模型和波浪模型,根据波浪的生成、成长和传播原理,针对最有可能形成较大波浪的W、WNW、NW三个方向,采用频率为0.5%(重现期为200a)的高潮位叠加频率为0.5%(重现期为200a)的W、WNW和NW向风作用下的波浪场和水动力场进行数值模拟研究,给出了高潮位条件下人工岛周边不同波向对应的有效波高和最大波高值,以及最大流速和流向数据,可为人工岛群的地坪标高确立和防浪建筑物的布设提供科学依据。     

Generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume

A semi-analytical nonlinear wavemaker model is derived to predict the generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume. The solution is very efficient and is achieved by applying eigenfunction expansions and FFT. The model is applied to study the effect of the wavemaker and its motion on the generation and propagation of nonlinear waves. The results indicate that the linear wavemaker theory may be applied to predict only the generation of waves of low steepness for which the nonlinear terms in the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition and free-surface boundary conditions are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves these nonlinear terms have substantial effects on wave profile and wave spectrum just after the wavemaker. A wave spectrum corresponding to a sinusoidally moving wavemaker possesses a multi-peak form with substantial nonlinear components, which disturbs or may even exclude physical modeling in wave flumes. The analysis shows that the widely recognized weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory may only be applied to describe the generation and propagation of waves of low steepness. This is subject to further restrictions in shallow and deep waters because the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition as well as the nonlinear interaction of wave components and the evolution of wave energy spectrum is not properly described by weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear wavemaker model. The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between predicted and measured free-surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed even for fairly steep waves.     

Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part II: surf beat and swash oscillations for wave groups and irregular waves

This is the second of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In the first paper the general model was described and it was applied to study cross-shore motion of regular waves in the surf zone. In this paper, part II, we consider the cross-shore motion of wave groups and irregular waves with emphasis on shoaling, breaking and runup as well as the generation of surf beats. These phenomena are investigated numerically by using a time-domain Boussinesq type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as well as the long waves. As compared with the classical Boussinesq equations, the equations adopted here allow for improved linear dispersion characteristics and wave breaking is modelled by using a roller concept for spilling breakers. The swash zone is included by incorporating a moving shoreline boundary condition and radiation of short and long period waves from the offshore boundary is allowed by the use of absorbing sponge layers. Mutual interaction between short waves and long waves is inherent in the model. This allows, for example, for a general exchange of energy between triads rather than a simple one-way forcing of bound waves and for a substantial modification of bore celerities in the swash zone due to the presence of long waves. The model study is based mainly on incident bichromatic wave groups considering a range of mean frequencies, group frequencies, modulation rates, sea bed slopes and surf similarity parameters. Additionally, two cases of incident irregular waves are studied. The model results presented include transformation of surface elevations during shoaling, breaking and runup and the resulting shoreline oscillations. The low frequency motion induced by the primary-wave groups is determined at the shoreline and outside the surf zone by low-pass filtering and subsequent division into incident bound and free components and reflected free components. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature and the agreement is generally found to be very good. Finally the paper includes special details from the breaker model: time and space trajectories of surface rollers revealing the breakpoint oscillation and the speed of bores; envelopes of low-pass filtered radiation stress and surface elevation; sensitivity of surf beat to group frequency, modulation rate and bottom slope is investigated. Part III of this work (Sørensen et al., 1998) presents nearshore circulations induced by the breaking of unidirectional and multi-directional waves.     

Generation of internal waves by moving non-stationary disturbances in a real stratified ocean

The plane problem on the generation of linear internal waves by a moving area of time-harmonic surface pressures in a continuously-stratified ocean of constant depth is considered. An analytical relation has been derived for forced internal waves off the site of their generation in the form of an internal wave field superposition corresponding to individual vertical modes. The possible wave regimes are determined. For the Brunt-Väisälä frequency distribution in the North Atlantic, the generation conditions and amplitudes of diverse radiated waves are numerically determined.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Physical Investigation of Directional Wave Focusing and Breaking Waves in Wave Basin

An experimental scheme for the generation of directional focusing waves in a wave basin is established in this paper. The effects of the directional range, frequency width and center frequency on the wave focusing are studied. The distrihution of maximum amplitude and the evolution of time series and spectra during wave packet propagation and the variation of water surface parameters are extensively investigated. The results reveal that the characteristics of focusing waves are significantly influenced hy wave directionality and that that breaking criteria for directional waves are distinctly different from those for unidirectional waves.     

Flow kinematics of focused wave groups on a plane beach in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility

Measurements are presented of the water particle kinematics of focused wave groups generated in the U.K. Coastal Research Facility. Single and repeated wave groups are considered at normal and 20° incidence to a 1:20 plane beach. The single focused wave groups model extreme transient events without the complication of reflections during the data acquisition process. A symmetry-based separation of harmonics method is used to interpret the water particle kinematics at the point of focus. Although the largest component is linear, there are also considerable second order kinematics terms (both low frequency and high frequency). Away from the free surface, the 2nd order difference contribution to the kinematics is a return current opposed to the direction of wave advance. For repeated wave groups, the measured kinematics confirms the presence of a low frequency free wave, followed by higher frequency waves of the main group and trailing higher order harmonic waves. In the breaker and surf zones, there is also evidence of the saw-tooth behaviour of broken waves, followed by scatter due to breaker-induced turbulence. Pulsatile wave breaking of repeated wave groups at oblique incidence is found to drive a longshore current.     

数值波浪水槽中完全非线性浅水波仿真特性研究

应用基于势流理论的时域高阶边界元方法,建立一个完全非线性的三维数值波浪水槽,通过实时模拟推板造波运动的方式产生波浪。通过混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新自由水面和造波板的瞬时位置。利用所建模型分别模拟了有限水深波和浅水波,与试验结果、相关文献结果和浅水理论结果吻合较好,且波浪能够稳定传播。系统地讨论造波板的运动圆频率、振幅和水深等对波浪传播和波浪特性的影响,并对波浪的非线性特性进行分析,研究发现造波板运动频率、运动振幅以及水深均将对波浪形态和波浪非线性产生显著影响。结果为真实水槽造波机的运动控制以及波浪生成试验提供了依据,便于实验室设置更合理的参数来准确模拟不同条件下的波浪。     

Mean and low frequency wave drifting forces on floating structures

A recently developed method, based on three-dimensional potential theory, to compute the mean wave drifting forces on a free floating structure in regular waves, is extended to include low frequency oscillatory components which arise when the structure is floating in regular wave groups consisting of two regular waves with small difference frequency. This completes the information necessary for the determination of the wave drifting forces under arbitrary irregular wave conditions.In regular wave groups the drifting forces not only depend on the first order velocity potential and the first body motions, but also on the wave exciting forces due to the low frequency part of the second order potential. For the general three-dimensional case the latter contribution can only be determined numerically and at the expense of long computation times. Since this contribution is generally not large compared to components which may be determined using linear potential theory it is included using a simple approximation. Results of the method of approximation are compared with some two-dimensional cases for which exact solutions are known.Results of computations of the total mean and low frequency surge forces on a rectangular barge and a column stabilized semi-submersible platform are presented. For both structures, the computed mean surge drifting forces in regular head waves are compared with results of model tests.The computed components of the total mean drifting forces are presented. It appears that for both the barge and the semi-submersible the same components are of importance.For the semi-submersible, the computed low frequency second order surge forces in head waves are compared with results obtained from a test in irregular head waves using cross-bispectral analysis methods.     

Propagation and amplitude decay mechanisms of internal solitary waves

In this paper, a modified dynamic coherent eddy model (DCEM) of large eddy simulation is applied to study internal solitary waves in a numerical flume. The model was verified by physical experiment and applied to investigate the potential influence factors on internal wave amplitude. In addition, we discussed the energy loss of internal solitary wave as well as hydrodynamics in the propagation. The results of our study show that (1) Step-depth is the most sensitive factor on wave amplitude for the “step-pool” internal wave generation method and the wave amplitudes obey a linear increase with step depth, and the increase rate is about 0.4. (2) Wave energy loss obeys a linear decrease with the propagation distance and its loss rate of large amplitude waves is smaller than that of small amplitude waves. (3) Loss of kinetic energy in wave valley is larger than that near the interface due to relative high fluctuating frequency. (4) Discovered boundary jet-flow can intensify the bottom shear, which might be one of the mechanisms of substance transportation, and the boundary layers of jet flows are easily influenced by the adjacent waves.     

Laboratory-scale generation of tsunami and long waves

Physical modeling of long waves in laboratories is still a valuable and trustworthy option to study long wave propagation, run-up and near-shore dynamics, and complex nonlinear interactions of approaching wave and macroroughness elements on the shore. Yet, problems develop if full-scale measured time series of real tsunami or numerically derived time series are to be adequately modeled in a timewise meaningful and scaled experiment. Hence, an in-depth review of the state-of-the-art long wave generation methods in laboratory wave flumes and basins is conducted. The study reveals that improved laboratory techniques could significantly contribute to enhance the accuracy and applicability of experimental tests. This would give important information on the interaction between the shoreline and infrastructures on land in order to deduce valuable information on the topic of tsunami inundation processes or wave-induced impacts on houses. In this light, a novel wave generation technique using high-capacity pipe pumps under some control and a loop-feedback control is meticulously developed and discussed. The wave generation facility is successfully tested for single sinusoidal leading depression waves as well as for prolonged solitary and leading depression N-waves of varying duration. The long wave generation technique is further assessed in terms of its capability to generate long waves abstracted from prototype conditions. The influence of controller settings on the resulting waves is discussed.     

南海北部a波和b波的生成与传播特征的数值研究

本文基于真实地形、潮汐的高分辨率三维MITgcm海洋环流模式,对南海北部a波（大振幅波列形式）和b波（孤立子形式）的生成与传播特征进行了数值研究。首先,我们总结和分析了这些波动的生成与传播特征。然后我们计算了吕宋海峡的能量收支。能量的生成在一天内有三个极大值,其中最大值对应a波的生成。吕宋海峡西边界的能通量一天内有两个极大值,较大的那个对应a波的生成而另一个对应b波的生成。我们设计了敏感性试验来探究吕宋海峡东西海脊对a、b波的生成和传播造成的影响。通过对比敏感性实验和标准试验的结果,发现对于a波的生成东海脊必不可少,但西海脊几乎没有影响。西海脊削弱了a波的振幅但未对a波波速造成明显的影响。b波来自于从东海脊生成的扰动信号。西海脊加强了这个扰动信号但减慢了它的传播速度。     

大尺度圆柱墩群周围的波流场的数值模拟

本文对波流共同作用下大尺度圆柱墩群周围的波流场进行了数值研究。利用波浪弥散关系的迭代计算求得波向与流向的夹角以及波浪的相对频率。流场通过求解浅水环流方程得到,波浪场通过求解含流的缓坡方程得到,通过二者的迭代计算得到大尺度圆柱墩群周围的波流场的耦合解。用有限元法建立了数值模型,并将本文的计算数据与试验数据以及其他学者计算数据进行了比较,结果较为合理。     

海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究

为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。     

Wavenumber–frequency analysis of the landslide-generated tsunamis at a conical island

In this paper we investigate the propagation of tsunamis generated by landslides around the coast of an island to understand the propagation and trapping mechanisms of the waves. Records of shoreline displacement have been processed using the wavenumber–frequency analysis (k–f). We identify the dispersion relation followed by the waves that propagate alongshore. It appears that the 0th-order edge wave mode is the only one relevant for shoreline run-up. Furthermore, it is shown that the edge wave dispersion relation is a quantitative tool to estimate the phase and group wave celerities. A very good agreement is found when comparing the wave celerities as calculated from the experimental records, against those predicted by the edge wave theory. Furthermore the analysis of the tsunami around the island has been carried out by means of the two-dimensional k–f. Using as input data a high-space resolution dataset of free surface elevations it is found that other modes, both trapped (1st-order edge waves) and non-trapped (free radiating waves), occur during the propagation.     

Spectral evolution of surface waves in a deep sea due to the effect of wave-wave interactions

The wave-wave kinetic equation for surface gravity waves in a deep sea is solved numerically, using the Runge-Kutta technique. Spectral evolution of waves resulted only from their being non-linear, with no wave generation and decaying taking place. To perform computations the JONSWAP-type frequency spectra and a variety of angular wave spectra were used. The angular spectrum of waves turned out to be stable. The frequency spectrum differed from the JONSWAP spectrum in that it had a high-frequency part, which was not similar to the Phillips spectrum. The form of the high-frequency spectral slope was determined as a result of spectral evolution and proved to have the form of the ‘−6’ law. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Wash Waves Generated by High Speed Displacement Ships

It is difficult to compute far-field waves in a relative large area by using one wave generation model when a large calculation domain is needed because of large dimensions of the waterway and long distance of the required computing points. Variation of waterway bathymetry and nonlinearity in the far field cannot be included in a ship fixed process either. A coupled method combining a wave generation model and wave propagation model is then used in this paper to simulate the wash waves generated by the passing ship. A NURBS-based higher order panel method is adopted as the stationary wave generation model; a wave spectrum method and Boussinesq-type equation wave model are used as the wave propagation model for the constant water depth condition and variable water depth condition, respectively. The waves calculated by the NURBS-based higher order panel method in the near field are used as the input for the wave spectrum method and the Boussinesq-type equation wave model to obtain the far-field waves. With this approach it is possible to simulate the ship wash waves including the effects of water depth and waterway bathymetry. Parts of the calculated results are validated experimentally, and the agreement is demonstrated. The effects of ship wash waves on the moored ship are discussed by using a diffraction theory method. The results indicate that the prediction of the ship induced waves by coupling models is feasible.     

Focused Wave Properties Based on A High Order Spectral Method with A Non-Periodic Boundary

In this paper,a numerical model is developed based on the High Order Spectral(HOS) method with a non-periodic boundary.A wave maker boundary condition is introduced to simulate wave generation at the incident boundary in the HOS method.Based on the numerical model,the effects of wave parameters,such as the assumed focused amplitude,the central frequency,the frequency bandwidth,the wave amplitude distribution and the directional spreading on the surface elevation of the focused wave,the maximum generated wave crest,and the shifting of the focusing point,are numerically investigated.Especially,the effects of the wave directionality on the focused wave properties are emphasized.The numerical results show that the shifting of the focusing point and the maximum crest of the wave group are dependent on the amplitude of the focused wave,the central frequency,and the wave amplitude distribution type.The wave directionality has a definite effect on multidirectional focused waves.Generally,it can even out the difference between the simulated wave amplitude and the amplitude expected from theory and reduce the shifting of the focusing points,implying that the higher order interaction has an influence on wave focusing,especially for 2D wave.In 3D wave groups,a broader directional spreading weakens the higher nonlinear interactions.     

The propagation of high frequency internal waves in the Celtic Sea

The continental slope to the south of the Celtic Sea is an area of extremely rough topography and tidal currents of the order of 50cm/s (with components both along and across the slope). This is a region of intense and complicated internal wave and internal tide activity. Historical current meter data from moorings close to the shelf-break show bursts of high frequency, large amplitude internal waves occurring, on average, at either once or twice per M2 tidal cycle. Wave packets at 9 moorings along the shelf-break and further on-shelf are identified using conditional sampling. The paths travelled by these wave packets are calculated using their fluctuation orientation, linear wave theory and the low frequency current. The records are up to 60 days long, allowing the ensemble statistics of propagation direction and wave characteristics to be calculated for a large number of wave packets. This analysis shows that only a fraction of the observed wave packets have orientations consistent with generation by the across-slope barotropic tide. This mechanism accounts for 20% of the wave packets in the north-west Celtic Sea and 29% in the southeast Celtic sea. A similar fraction of the wave packets (23% in the north west and 27% in the south east) have orientations clearly consistent with generation by an along-slope flow over the rough topography on the slope. The remaining wave packets are attributed to generation by tidal flow over topography close to the moorings and possibly internal wave resonance within canyons.     

Modeling the generation and gravity-capillary waves using an underwater sound source

This is an experimental study of the acoustic method of surface-wave excitation using an underwater source of high-frequency (950 kHz) sound. The surface waves are excited at the sound-beam modulation frequency (3–55 Hz). For a normal fall onto the free surface, the modulated sound beam efficiently generates waves in the gravity-capillary range. This provides flexible electronic control of the main wave parameters (frequency and amplitude) in the packet and continuous modes. The amplitude-frequency characteristics of the process of surface-wave generation were obtained by numerical calculations (based on equations for the rate of acoustic flux and propagation of gravity-capillary surface waves) and by experiments (based on surface wave measurements by optical and contact methods). Both values are very consistent: on the background of a similar monotonic attenuation with frequency, they have a local dip near the minimum of the phase velocity and oscillation in the frequency range above 20 Hz. The experiments on the excitation of wave packets by single acoustic messages with varying lengths and powers, as well as by falling water drops, indicated that, in all cases, the phase characteristics are satisfactorily consistent with one another and the time needed for the signal to arrive at the measurement point is determined by the group velocity.