Numerical Simulation of Freak Waves Based on the Four-Order Nonlinear Schroelinger Equation

A numerical wave model based on the modified four-order nonlinear Schoedinger （NKS） equation in deep water is developed to simulate freak waves. A standard split-step, pseudo-spectral method is used to solve NLS equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, and then the simulation of freak waves is perforated by changing sideband condi- tions. Results show that freak waves entirely consistent with the definition in the evolution of wave trains are obtained. The possible occurrence mechanism of freak waves is discussed and the relevant characteristics are also analyzed.     

Numerical Simulation of Seabed Response and Liquefaction due to Nonlinear Waves

Based on Biot＇s consolidation theory, a two-dimensional model for computation of the seabed response to waves is presented with the finite element method. Numerical results for different wave conditions are obtained, and the effects of wave non-lineafity on the wave-induced seabed response are examined. Moreover, the wave-induced momentary liquefaction in uniform and inhomogeneous seabeds is investigated. It is shown that the wave non-linearity affects the distribution of the wave-induced pore pressure and effective stresses, while the influence of wave non-linearity on the seabed liquefaction potential is not so significant.     

Generation and Properties of Freak Waves in A Numerical Wave Tank

Freak waves are generated based on the mechanism of wave focusing in a 2D numerical wave tank. To set up the nonlinear numerical wave tank, the Boundary Element Method is used to solve potential flow equations incorporated with fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. The nonlinear properties of freak waves, such as high frequency components and wave profile asymmetry, are discussed. The kinematic data, which can be useful for the evaluation of the wave forces exerted on structures to avoid underestimation of linear predictions, are obtained, and discussed, from the simulated results of freak waves.     

Numerical Simulation of Hydrodynamic Behaviors of Gravity Cage in Waves

This paper aims at investigation of the dynamic properties of gravity cage exposed to waves by use of a numerical model. The numerical model is developed, based on lumped mass method to set up the equations of motion of the whole cage; meanwhile the solutions of equations are solved by the Runge-Kutta-Verner fifth-order and sixth-order method. Physical model tests have been carried out to examine the validity of the numerical model. The results by the numerical simulation agree well with the experimental data.     

Numerical Simulation of Sand Shoreline Evolution Under Action of Regular Waves and Irregular Waves

Based on the singleline theory, a numerical simulation is presented to predict the shoreline evolution on sand beach. A parabolic equation of longshore sediment transport and boundary conditions are proposed. The combined effect of wave diffraction and refraction on the shoreline evolution on the downdrift side of the breakwater is taken into account and is calculated using the theory of regular waves and irregular waves. The present model is verified by the field observation data of erosion for half a year on the downdrift side of a harbor, and compared with some experimental results. The numerical results are in good agreement with the field measured and experimental data.     

Simulation of Fully Nonlinear 3-D Numerical Wave Tank

A fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) has been simulated by use of a three-dimensional higher order bouodary element method (HOBEM) in the time domain. Within the frame of potential flow and the adoption of simply Rankine source, the resulting boundary integral equation is repeatedly solved at each time step and the fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions are integrated with time to update its position and boundary values. A smooth technique is also adopted in order to eliminate the possible saw-tooth numerical instabilities. The incident wave at the uptank is given as theoretical wave in this paper. The outgoing waves are absorbed inside a damping zone by spatially varying artificial damping on the free surface at the wave tank end. The numerical results show that the NWT developed by these approaches has a high accuracy and good numerical stability.     

New Numerical Scheme for Simulation of Hyperbolic Mild-Slope Equation

The original hyperbolic mild-slope equation can effectively take into account the combined effects of wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection, but does not consider the nonlinear effect of waves, and the existing numerical schemes for it show some deficiencies. Based on the original hyperbolic mild-slope equation, a nonlinear dispersion relation is introduced in present paper to effectively take the nonlinear effect of waves into account and a new numerical scheme is proposed. The weakly nonlinear dispersion relation and the improved numerical scheme are applied to the simulation of wave transformation over an elliptic shoal. Numerical tests show that the improvement of the numerical scheme makes efficient the solution to the hyperbolic mild-slope equation. A comparison of numerical results with experimental data indicates that the results obtained by use of the new scheme are satisfactory.     

Efficient Generation of Freak Waves in Laboratory

In the present study,Kriebel's method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory.The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank.The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel's method of the same energy.It can also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel's and can hardly influence the significant wave height.     

Surface Elevation Distribution of Sea Waves Based on the Maximum Entropy Principle

A probability density function of surface elevation is obtained through improvement of the method introduced by Cieslikiewicz who employed the maximum entropy principle to investigate the surface elevation distribution. The density function can be easily extended to higher order according to demand and is non-negative everywhere, satisfying the basic behavior of the probability. Moreover because the distribution is derived without any assumption about sea waves, it is found from comparison with several accepted distributions that the new form of distribution can be applied in a wider range of wave conditions. In addition, the density function can be used to fit some observed distributions of surface vertical acceleration although something remains unsolved.     

Numerical Simulation for Refraction-Diffraction of Waves in Water of Slowly Varying Current and Topography

A new numerical finite difference iteration method for refraction-diffraction of waves in waterof slowly varying current and topography is developed in this paper.And corresponding theoretical modelincluding the dissipation term is briefly described,together with some analysis and comparison ofcomputational results of the model with measurements in a hydraulic scale model(Berkhoff et al.,1982).An example of practical use of the method is given,showing that the present model is useful to engineeringpractice.     

Numerical Calculation for Nonlinear Waves in Water of Arbitrarily Varying Depth with Boussinesq Equations

Based on the high order nonlinear and dispersive wave equation with a dissipalive term, a numerical model for nonlinear waves is developed. It is suitable to calculate wave propagation in water areas with an arbitrarily varying bottom slope and a relative depth h/ L0≤ 1. By the application of the completely implicit slagger grid and central difference algorithm, discrete governing equations are obtained. Although the central difference algorithm of second-order accuracy both in time and space domains is used to yield the difference equations, the order of truncation error in the difference equation is the same as that of the third-order derivatives of the Boussinesq equation. In this paper, the correction to the first-order derivative is made, and the accuracy of the difference equation is improved. The verifications of accuracy show that the results of the numerical model are in good agreement with those of analytical solutions and physical models.     

Theoretical Model and Random Simulation for Nonlinear Interaction of Irregular Waves with Vertical Wall

According to the theoretical solutions for the nonlinear three-dimensional gravity surface waves and their interactions with vertical wall previously proposed by the lead author, in this paper an exact second-order random model of the unified wave motion process for nonlinear irregular waves and their interactions with vertical wall in uniform current is formulated, the corresponding theoretical nonlinear spectrum is derived, and the digital simulation model suitable to the use of the FFT (Fast Fourier Tansform) algorithm is also given. Simulations of wave surface, wave pressure, total wave pressure and its moment are performed. The probability properties and statistical characteristics of these realizations are tested, which include the verifications of normality for linear process and of non-normality for nonlinear process; the consistances of the theoretical spectra with simulated ones; the probability properties of apparent characterstics, such as amplitudes, periods, and extremes (maximum and minimum, positive and negative extremes). The statistical analysis and comparisons demonstrate that the proposed theoretical and computing models are realistic and effective, the estimated spectra are in good agreement with the theoretical ones, and the probability properties of the simulated waves are similar to those of the sea waves. At the same time, the simulating computation can be completed rapidly and easily.     

Numerical Study on Breaking Criteria for Solitary Waves

Studies of the breaking criteria for solitary waves on a slope are presented in this paper. The boundary element method is used to model the processes of shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on various slopes. Empirical formulae that can be used to characterize the breaking of solitary waves are presented. These include the breaking index, the wave height, the water depth, and the maximum particle velocity at the point of breaking. Comparisons with the results of other researches are given.     

Fully Coupled Simulation of Interactions Among Waves,Permeable Breakwaters and Seabeds Based on N−S Equations

Interstitial flows in breakwater cores and seabeds are a key consideration in coastal and marine engineering designs and have a direct impact on their structural safety.In this paper,a unified fully coupled model for wave?permeable breakwater?porous seabed interactions is built based on an improved N?S equation.A numerical wave flume is constructed,and numerical studies are carried out by applying the finite difference method.In combination with a physical model test,the accuracy of the numerical simulation results is verified by comparing the calculated and measured values of wave height at measurement points and the seepage pressure within the breakwater and seabed.On this basis,the characteristics of the surrounding wave field and the internal flow field of the pore structure,as well as the evolution process of the fluctuating pore water pressure inside the breakwater and seabed,are further analyzed.The spatial distribution of the maximum fluctuating pore water pressure in the breakwater is compared between two cases by considering whether the seabed is permeable,and then the effect of seabed permeability on the dynamic pore water pressure in the breakwater is clarified.This study attempts to provide a reference for breakwater design and the protection of nearby seabeds.     

Numerical Simulation and Physical Simulation of Sea Wave Groups

- Based on field wave data, an empirical formula of wave envelope spectrum is given in this paper. Then the methods of both numerical and physical simulation of sea wave groups with the given spectrum and groupiness parameters are suggested.     

Numerical Simulation of Multi-Directional Random Seas

Multi-directional irregular waves are simulated on the basis of the given directional spectrum using a double summation model, a single direction per frequency model and a single summation model. Their results are compared. It is shown that the single direction per frequency model proposed in this paper can generate a realistic wave field. The effects of the model parameters on the simulated results are also studied in this paper and corresponding suggestions are given.     

Lateral Global Buckling of Submarine Pipelines Based on the Model of Nonlinear Pipe–Soil Interaction

With the increasing development and utilization of offshore oil and gas resources, global buckling failures of pipelines subjected to high temperature and high pressure are becoming increasingly important. For unburied or semi-buried submarine pipelines, lateral global buckling represents the main form of global buckling. The pipe–soil interaction determines the deformation and stress distribution of buckling pipelines. In this paper, the nonlinear pipe–soil interaction model is introduced into the analysis of pipeline lateral global buckling, a coupling method of PSI elements and the modified RIKS algorithm is proposed to study the lateral global buckling of a pipeline, and the buckling characteristics of submarine pipeline with a single arch symmetric initial imperfection under different pipe–soil interaction models are studied. Research shows that, compared with the ideal elastic–plastic pipe–soil interaction model, when the DNV-RP-F109 model is adopted to simulate the lateral pipe–soil interactions in the lateral global buckling of a pipeline, the buckling amplitude increases, however, the critical buckling force and the initial buckling temperature difference decreases. In the DNV-RP-F109 pipe–soil interaction model, the maximum soil resistance, the residual soil resistance, and the displacement to reach the maximum soil resistance have significant effects on the analysis results of pipeline global buckling.     

Numerical Simulation and Experimental Investigation on Performance of the Wells Turbine in Irregular Oscillating Flow

The Wells turbine is an axial-flow air-turbine designed to extract energy from ocean waves. An important consideration is the self-starting capability of the Wells turbine, a phenomenon encountered where the turbine accelerate by itself up to a certain speed for the best turbine performance. In order to clarify the self-starting characteristic and running performance of the Wells turbine in an irregular oscillating flow, a numerical simulation process is established in this paper on the rational assumption of quasi-steady flow conditions. Both self-starting characteristics and running performance are obtained through the numerical simulation and subsequently compared with the experimental data achieved on a computer-controlled oscillating flow test rig which could realize some irregular oscillating flow according to the specified spectrum. Results show that the self-starting time decreases with the increase of the significant wave height and the mean frequency of the irregular oscillating flow. Therefor     

Numerical Simulation of Transportation of SPM from the Yellow River to the Bohai Sea

1 .IntroductionThe records at the Lijin Station showthat almost 1 .34 bt of sediment of the Yellow River waspouredintothe Bohai Sea annuallyfrom1855 to 1988 (Qianet al.,1993 ; Wang and Zhang,1998) .The Yellow River has shifted its trunk streamto the Qings…