Internal wave generation in an improved two-dimensional Boussinesq model

A set of Boussinesq-type equations with improved linear frequency dispersion in deeper water is solved numerically using a fourth order accurate predictor-corrector method. The model can be used to simulate the evolution of relatively long, weakly nonlinear waves in water of constant or variable depth provided the bed slope is of the same order of magnitude as the frequency dispersion parameter. By performing a linearized stability analysis, the phase and amplitude portraits of the numerical schemes are quantified, providing important information on practical grid resolutions in time and space. In contrast to previous models of the same kind, the incident wave field is generated inside the fluid domain by considering the scattered wave field in one part of the fluid domain and the total wave field in the other. Consequently, waves leaving the fluid domain are absorbed almost perfectly in the boundary regions by employment of damping terms in the mass and momentum equations. Additionally, the form of the incident regular wave field is computed by a Fourier approximation method which satisfies the governing equations accurately in water of constant depth. Since the Fourier approximation method requires an Eulerian mean current below wave trough level or a net mass transport velocity to be specified, the method can be used to study the interaction of waves and currents in closed as well as open basins. Several computational examples are given. These illustrate the potential of the wave generation method and the capability of the developed model.     

Bound waves and triad interactions in shallow water

Boussinesq type equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics are derived and applied to study wave-wave interaction in shallow water. Weakly nonlinear solutions are formulated in terms of Fourier series with constant or spatially varying coefficients for two purposes: to derive higher order boundary conditions for regular and irregular wave trains and to derive evolution equations on constant or variable water depth. Wave transformation of monochromatic, bichromatic and irregular waves is studied and comparison with measurements and direct time domain solutions shows good agreement. The improvement relative to classical models from the literature is discussed.     

An analytic investigation of oscillations within a harbor of constant slope

Longitudinal and transverse oscillations within a harbor of constant slope are analyzed. Based on the linear shallow water approximation, longitudinal oscillations are described with Bessel equations. Ignoring friction, oscillations are forced using the period of the incident perpendicular wave field by the method of matched asymptotics. The analytic results show that the varying depth shifts the resonant wave numbers to lower values than those for the same geometric harbor with constant depth. Furthermore, we extend the shallow water equations to a linear, weakly dispersive, Boussinesq-type equation by modifying the offshore velocity component, and then use it to investigate possible existing transverse oscillations in the harbor of constant slope. These oscillations are types of standing edge waves. Their character is quite sensitive to the boundary condition at the backwall of the harbor.     

Finite-amplitude analysis of some Boussinesq-type equations

Recent progress in formulating Boussinesq-type equations includes improved features of linear dispersion and higher-order nonlinearity. Nonlinear characteristics of these equations have been previously analysed on the assumption of weak nonlinearity, being therefore limited to moderate wave height. The present work addresses this aspect for an important class of wave problems, namely, regular waves of permanent form on a constant depth. Using a numerical procedure which is valid up to the maximum wave height, permanent-form waves admitted by three sets of advanced Boussinesq-type equations are analysed. Further, the characteristics of each set of the Boussinesq-type equations are discussed in the light of those from the potential theory satisfying the exact free-surface conditions. Phase velocity, amplitude dispersion, harmonic amplitudes (namely, second and third) and skewness of surface profile are shown over a two-parameter space of frequency and wave height.     

A new form of generalized Boussinesq equations for varying water depth

A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water.     

Wash Waves Generated by High Speed Displacement Ships

It is difficult to compute far-field waves in a relative large area by using one wave generation model when a large calculation domain is needed because of large dimensions of the waterway and long distance of the required computing points. Variation of waterway bathymetry and nonlinearity in the far field cannot be included in a ship fixed process either. A coupled method combining a wave generation model and wave propagation model is then used in this paper to simulate the wash waves generated by the passing ship. A NURBS-based higher order panel method is adopted as the stationary wave generation model; a wave spectrum method and Boussinesq-type equation wave model are used as the wave propagation model for the constant water depth condition and variable water depth condition, respectively. The waves calculated by the NURBS-based higher order panel method in the near field are used as the input for the wave spectrum method and the Boussinesq-type equation wave model to obtain the far-field waves. With this approach it is possible to simulate the ship wash waves including the effects of water depth and waterway bathymetry. Parts of the calculated results are validated experimentally, and the agreement is demonstrated. The effects of ship wash waves on the moored ship are discussed by using a diffraction theory method. The results indicate that the prediction of the ship induced waves by coupling models is feasible.     

Unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth based on Green–Naghdi equation

Based on Green–Naghdi equation this work studies unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth. A moving ship is regarded as a moving pressure disturbance on free surface. The moving pressure is incorporated into the Green–Naghdi equation to formulate forcing of ship waves in shallow water. The frequency dispersion term of the Green–Naghdi equation accounts for the effects of finite water depth on ship waves. A wave equation model and the finite element method (WE/FEM) are adopted to solve the Green–Naghdi equation. The numerical examples of a Series 60 (C_B=0.6) ship moving in shallow water are presented. Three-dimensional ship wave profiles and wave resistance are given when the ship moves in shallow water with a bed bump (or a trench). The numerical results indicate that the wave resistance increases first, then decreases, and finally returns to normal value as the ship passes a bed bump. A comparison between the numerical results predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations is made. It is found that the wave resistance predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation is larger than that predicted by the shallow water equations in subcritical flow , and the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations predict almost the same wave resistance when , the frequency dispersion can be neglected in supercritical flows.     

A coupled-mode system with application to nonlinear water waves propagating in finite water depth and in variable bathymetry regions

A non-linear coupled-mode system of horizontal equations is presented, modelling the evolution of nonlinear water waves in finite depth over a general bottom topography. The vertical structure of the wave field is represented by means of a local-mode series expansion of the wave potential. This series contains the usual propagating and evanescent modes, plus two additional terms, the free-surface mode and the sloping-bottom mode, enabling to consistently treat the non-vertical end-conditions at the free-surface and the bottom boundaries. The present coupled-mode system fully accounts for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion, and the local-mode series exhibits fast convergence. Thus, a small number of modes (up to 5–6) are usually enough for precise numerical solution. In the present work, the coupled-mode system is applied to the numerical investigation of families of steady travelling wave solutions in constant depth, corresponding to a wide range of water depths, ranging from intermediate depth to shallow-water wave conditions, and its results are compared vs. Stokes and cnoidal wave theories, as well as with fully nonlinear Fourier methods. Furthermore, numerical results are presented for waves propagating over variable bathymetry regions and compared with nonlinear methods based on boundary integral formulation and experimental data, showing good agreement.     

具有精确色散性的非线性波浪水平二维数学模型

建立具有色散性的水平二维非线性波浪方程,方程的非线性近似到了三阶。方程以波面升高和自由表面速度势表达的微分-积分型数学方程,给出方程的数值求解方法和算例,对方程积分项的处理给出了计算方法。计算结果与Boussinesq方程模型和缓坡方程模型的对应计算结果进行了对比。     

强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值模型检验

采用同位网格有限差分法,建立了强非线性和色散性Boussinesq方程数值计算模型。以稳恒波Fourier近似解给定入射波边界条件,对均匀水深深水和浅水域不同非线性的行进波、缓坡地形上深水至浅水域的浅水变形波、以及缓坡和陡坡地形上的波浪水槽实验进行了数值计算,并将计算结果与解析解、解析数值解以及实验值进行了较为详细的比较,从而检验了模型的色散性、非线性以及不同底坡下非线性波的浅水变形性能。     

Standing wave pressures on walls

The pressure variations exerted on a vertical wall in a constant water depth are computed from the calculation of a short-crested wave system using the Fourier series approximation method. The numerical results have been compared with experimental results from literature. The comparison with the linear solution of the present theory gives a good estimate for the variation of dynamic pressures. The double peak formation in the experimental results for pressure curves at still water level and at the bottom for the steeper waves was not observed for the linear case. In the case of surface elevation, deviations with the third order perturbation results are observed for higher waves. In addition, deviations are also observed within the elevation results for higher waves.     

Effects of Topography and Current on Horizontal Irrotational Waves in Shallow Water

Based on the Boussinesq assumption,derived are couple equations of free surface elevationand horizontal velocities for horizontal irrotational flow,and analytical expressions of the correspondingpressure and vertical velocity.After the free surface elevation and horizontal velocity at a certain depth areobtained by numerical method,the pressure and vertical velocity distributions can be obtained by simplecalculation.The dispersion at different depths is the same at the O(ε)approximation.The waveamplitude will decrease with increasing time due to viscosity,but it will increase due to the matching ofviscosity and the bed slope.thus,flow is unstable.Numerical or analytical results show that the waveamplitude.velocity and length will increase as the current increases along the wave direction.but theamplitude will increase.and the wave velocity and length will decrease as the water depth decreases.     

An explicit finite difference model for simulating weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive waves over slowly varying water depth

In this paper, a modified leap-frog finite difference (FD) scheme is developed to solve Non linear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE). By adjusting the FD mesh system and modifying the leap-frog algorithm, numerical dispersion is manipulated to mimic physical frequency dispersion for water wave propagation. The resulting numerical scheme is suitable for weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive waves propagating over a slowly varying water depth. Numerical studies demonstrate that the results of the new numerical scheme agree well with those obtained by directly solving Boussinesq-type models for both long distance propagation, shoaling and re-fraction over a slowly varying bathymetry. Most importantly, the new algorithm is much more computationally efficient than existing Boussinesq-type models, making it an excellent alternative tool for simulating tsunami waves when the frequency dispersion needs to be considered.     

Wave Refraction-Diffraction in the Presence of a Current

-Wave refraction-diffraction due to a large ocean structure and topography in the presence of a 'current are studied numerically. The mathematical model is the mild-slope equation developed by Kirby (1984). This equation is solved using a finite and boundary element method. The physical domain is devid-ed into two regions: a slowly varying topography region and a constant water depth region. For waves propagating in the constant water depth region, without current interfering, the mild- slope equation is then reduced to the Helmholtz equation which is solved by boundary element method. In varying topography region, this equation will be solved by finite element method. Conservation of mass and energy flux of the fluid between these two regions is required for composition of these two numerical methods. The numerical scheme proposed here is capable of dealing with water wave problems of different water depths with the main characters of these two methods.     

关于Boussinesq型水波方程理论和应用研究的综述

Boussinesq型方程是研究水波传播与演化问题的重要工具之一,本文就1967-2018年常用的Boussinesq型水波方程从理论推导和数值应用两个方面进行了回顾,以期推动该类方程在海岸(海洋)工程波浪水动力方向的深入研究和应用。此类方程推导主要从欧拉方程或Laplace方程出发。在一定的非线性和缓坡假设等条件下,国内外学者建立了多个Boussinesq型水波方程,并以Stokes波的相关理论为依据,考察了这些方程在相速度、群速度、线性变浅梯度、二阶非线性、三阶非线性、波幅离散、速度沿水深分布以及和(差)频等多方面性能的精度。将Boussinesq型水波方程分为水平二维和三维两大类,并对主要Boussinesq型水波方程的特性进行了评述。进而又对适合渗透地形和存在流体分层情况下的Boussinesq型水波方程进行了简述与评论。最后对这些方程的应用进行了总结与分析。     

An explicit approximation to the wavelength of nonlinear waves

An explicit and concise approximation to the wavelength in which the effect of nonlinearity is involved and presented in terms of wave height, wave period, water depth and gravitational acceleration. The present approximation is in a rational form of which Fenton and Mckee's (1990, Coastal Engng 14, 499–513) approximation is reserved in the numerator and the wave steepness is involved in the denominator. The rational form of this approximation can be converted to an alternative form of a power-series polynomial which indicates that the wavelength increases with wave height and decreases with water depth. If the determined coefficients in the present approximation are fixed, the approximating formula can provide a good agreement with the wavelengths numerically obtained by Rienecker and Fenton's (1981, J. Fluid Mech. 104, 119–137) Fourier series method, but has large deviations when waves of small amplitude are in deep water or all waves are in shallow water. The present approximation with variable coefficients can provide excellent predictions of the wavelengths for both long and short waves even, for high waves.     

Nonlinear response of membranes to ocean waves using boundary and finite elements

The behavior of a highly deformable membrane to ocean waves was studied by coupling a nonlinear boundary element model of the fluid domain to a nonlinear finite element model of the membrane. The hydrodynamic loadings induced by water waves are computed assuming large body hydrodynamics and ideal fluid flow and then solving the transient diffraction/radiation problem. Either linear waves or finite amplitude waves can be assumed in the model and thus the nonlinear kinematic and dynamic free surface boundary conditions are solved iteratively. The nonlinear nature of the boundary condition requires a time domain solution. To implicitly include time in the governing field equation, Volterra's method was used. The approach is the same as the typical boundary element method for a fluid domain where the governing field equation is the starting point. The difference is that in Volterra's method the time derivative of the governing field equation becomes the starting point.The boundary element model was then coupled through an iterative process to a finite element model of membrane structures. The coupled model predicts the nonlinear interaction of nonlinear water waves with highly deformable bodies. To verify the coupled model a large scale test was conducted in the OH Hinsdale wave Research Laboratory at Oregon State University on a 3-ft-diameter fabric cylinder submerged in the wave tank. The model data verified the numerical prediction of the structure displacements and of the changes in the wave field.The boundary element model is an ideal modeling technique for modeling the fluid domain when the governing field equations is the Laplace equation. In this case the nonlinear boundary element model was coupled with a finite element model of membrane structures, but the model could have been coupled with other finite element models of more rigid structures, such as a pontoon floating breakwater.     

An explicit approximation to the wavelength of nonlinear waves

An explicit and concise approximation to the wavelength in which the effect of nonlinearity is involved and presented in terms of wave height, wave period, water depth and gravitational acceleration. The present approximation is in a rational form of which Fenton and Mckee's (1990, Coastal Engng 14, 499–513) approximation is reserved in the numerator and the wave steepness is involved in the denominator. The rational form of this approximation can be converted to an alternative form of a power-series polynomial which indicates that the wavelength increases with wave height and decreases with water depth. If the determined coefficients in the present approximation are fixed, the approximating formula can provide a good agreement with the wavelengths numerically obtained by Rienecker and Fenton's (1981, J. Fluid Mech. 104, 119–137) Fourier series method, but has large deviations when waves of small amplitude are in deep water or all waves are in shallow water. The present approximation with variable coefficients can provide excellent predictions of the wavelengths for both long and short waves even, for high waves.     

Hydroelastic response of a circular plate in waves on a two-layer fluid of finite depth

The hydroelastic response of a circular, very large floating structure （VLFS）, idealized as a floating circular elastic thin plate, is investigated for the case of time-harmonic incident waves of the surface and interfacial wave modes, of a given wave frequency, on a two-layer fluid of finite and constant depth. In linear potential-flow theory, with the aid of angular eigenfunction expansions, the diffraction potentials can be expressed by the Bessel functions. A system of simultaneous equations is derived by matching the velocity and the pressure between the open-water and the plate-covered regions, while incorporating the edge conditions of the plate. Then the complex nested series are simplified by utilizing the orthogonality of the vertical eigenfunctions in the open-water region. Numerical computations are presentedto investigate the effects of different physical quantities, such as the thickness of the plate, Young＇s modulus, the ratios ofthe densities and of the layer depths, on the dispersion relations of the flexural-gravity waves for the two-layer fluid.Rapid convergence of the method is observed, but is slower at higher wave frequency. At high frequency, it is found that there is some energy transferred from the interfacial mode to the surface mode.     

数值波浪水槽中完全非线性浅水波仿真特性研究

应用基于势流理论的时域高阶边界元方法,建立一个完全非线性的三维数值波浪水槽,通过实时模拟推板造波运动的方式产生波浪。通过混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新自由水面和造波板的瞬时位置。利用所建模型分别模拟了有限水深波和浅水波,与试验结果、相关文献结果和浅水理论结果吻合较好,且波浪能够稳定传播。系统地讨论造波板的运动圆频率、振幅和水深等对波浪传播和波浪特性的影响,并对波浪的非线性特性进行分析,研究发现造波板运动频率、运动振幅以及水深均将对波浪形态和波浪非线性产生显著影响。结果为真实水槽造波机的运动控制以及波浪生成试验提供了依据,便于实验室设置更合理的参数来准确模拟不同条件下的波浪。