近岸波浪和波生流环境中泥沙输运的数值模拟

Owing to lack of observational data and accurate definition,it is difficult to distinguish the Kuroshio intrusion water from the Pacific Ocean into the South China Sea(SCS).By using a passive tracer to identify the Kuroshio water based on an observation-validated three-dimensional numerical model MITgcm,the spatio-temporal variation of the Kuroshio intrusion water into the SCS has been investigated.Our result shows the Kuroshio intrusion is of distinct seasonal variation in both horizontal and vertical directions.In winter,the intruding Kuroshio water reaches the farthest,almost occupying the area from 18°N to 23°N and 114°E to 121°E,with a small branch flowing towards the Taiwan Strait.The intrusion region of the Kuroshio water decreases with depth gradually.However,in summer,the Kuroshio water is confined to the east of 118°E without any branch reaching the Taiwan Strait;meanwhile the intrusion region of the Kuroshio water increases from the surface to the depth about 205 m,then it decreases with depth.The estimated annual mean of Kuroshio Intrusion Transport(KIT) via the Luzon Strait is westward to the SCS in an amount of –3.86×106 m3/s,which is larger than the annual mean of Luzon Strait Transport(LST) of –3.15×106 m3/s.The KIT above 250 m accounts for 60%–80% of the LST throughout the entire water column.By analyzing interannual variation of the Kuroshio intrusion from the year 2003 to 2012,we find that the Kuroshio branch flowing into the Taiwan Strait is the weaker in winter of La Ni?a years than those in El Ni?o and normal years,which may be attributed to the wind stress curl off the southeast China then.Furthermore,the KIT correlates the Ni?o 3.4 index from 2003 to 2012 with a correlation coefficient of 0.41,which is lower than that of the LST with the Ni?o 3.4 index,i.e.,0.78.     

国内裂流研究进展

裂流是我国华南沿海地区较为频发的一种自然灾害。本文从国内裂流发生概况、裂流的研究历史以及研究进展等方面对裂流作出阐述,并与国外研究裂流的方法进行了对比。介绍了国外在现场观测运用的方法和设备、国内自研究裂流以来开展的物理模型试验、数值模型以及评价裂流风险的方法。展望了未来国内裂流的研究趋势。     

High-resolution circulation forecasting of the Maenggol Channel, south coast of Korea

The Maenggol Channel and Uldolmok Strait, located on the south-west coast of Korea, have notably strong and complex currents due to tidal effects and to local geological factors. In these areas, electric power has been generated using strong tidal currents, the speed of which is more than 3 m/s during spring tides. The region also provides a shortcut for navigation. These tidal conditions are therefore sometimes useful, but may also cause terrible accidents or severe economic damage, in the absence of accurate information regarding ocean conditions. In April 2014, the passenger ferry MV Sewol capsized in the Maenggol Channel, with 295 passengers killed and 9 still missing. While this was unquestionably a man-made disaster, strong currents were one of the contributing causes. It was also difficult to conduct scuba diving rescue operations given strong current speeds, and accurate prediction of the time when the tide would turn was thus critically needed. In this research, we used the high-resolution coastal circulation forecasting system of KOOS (Korea Operational Oceanographic System) for analysis and simulation of strong tidal currents in such areas with many small islands, using measurements and modeling from this research area. For accurate prediction of tidal currents, small grid size-modeling was needed, and in this study, we identified a suitable grid size that offers efficiency as well as accuracy.     

A three-dimensional model of the breeze-induced circulation of waters in the Kerch strait

We generalize the problem of evaluation of currents caused by the action of breeze winds to the three-dimensional case. In the “solid-lid” approximation, the problem is reduced to the numerical solution of a two-dimensional equation for the integral current function (with complex-valued coefficients) with subsequent evaluation of the components of current velocity according to analytic formulas. The breeze is specified as acting in a narrow coastal strip in the form of a zonal wind. The three-dimensional structure and the variations of currents near the west boundary of the Kerch Strait as functions of time are studied in detail.     

Submesoscale variability of the current and wind fields in the coastal region of Sochi

The results of direct high temporal resolution (10 min) measurements of the surface and bottom currents and wind stress in the coastal zone of Sochi in May 2009 are presented. An analysis of the mesoscale and submesoscale variability of the current velocity and wind stress is performed on the basis of these measurements, and their correlation is studied. The principal high-frequency and low-frequency components of the current velocity variability are identified. In the majority of the observation cases, the coastal currents reveal no significant correlation with the mean wind over the studied region. However, the correlations between the currents and the spatial variability of wind are explained well by the local topography.     

Modeling of the breeze circulation of waters in the Kerch Strait

The problem of the numerical analysis of currents in the Kerch Strait is studied within the framework of a linear nonstationary two-dimensional model in the nondivergent approximation. We describe the actual situation when the motion is induced by a breeze against the background of the daily average northeast wind. The breeze is specified as acting in a narrow coastal strip and can be classified as a zonal wind. The variations of circulation near the Tuzla Island are studied in detail. It is shown that the contribution of the breeze circulation to the total circulation can be significant for the explanation of the processes running in the Kerch Strait. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 6, pp. 16–27, November–December, 2007.     

Observation of the Kyucho in the Bungo Channel by HF radar

Observations of sea surface currents by HF radar were carried out in the Bungo Channel in summer 1992. The current ellipses of M₂ constituent obtained by the observational results agree quite well with those obtained by the ADCP observations, showing that the accuracy of the HF radar measurements is of the same level as ADCP. The results revealed the current structures and their change with the Kyucho in detail. The Kyucho is influenced by the complicated coastal geometry and does not propagate straightly into the Bungo Channel. It propagates further inward after charging the coastal bays with warm water. The current directions change largely, since the currents turn around the stagnant region in the bay filled with the warm water. The northward intrusion begins to be weakened in the southern part of the channel, while it still persists in the northern part. The northward current speeds of the observed Kyucho are about 50 cm/s and sometimes attain 60 to 70 cm/s.     

Features of the currents at a bold coast

Principal regularities of the coastal velocity field formation have been revealed on the basis of processing and analysis of multi-annual measurements of currents at a bold coast. The influence produced by the coastline, the wind force and its spatial-temporal variability, pycnocline, and the general circulation pattern on this field is estimated. The seiche and inertial currents in this region are characterized. Patterns of the transversal upwelling-downwelling circulations are developed for winter and summer.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

A numerical study of coastal inundation and its validation for Thane cyclone in the Bay of Bengal

The numerical modeling of coastal inundation from severe cyclones is a challenging area for coastal hazard mapping, emergency planning and evacuation measures. There is a need for realistic estimate of onshore coastal inundation by the operational weather centers for precise warnings to minimize loss of life and property. At present, there is no modeling effort to evaluate the extent of coastal inundation for any coastal state in India. The operational center disseminates information only on peak surge and its location just before cyclone landfall, with no prior information about onshore inundation. To bridge this gap, the present study applies the state-of-art ADCIRC hydrodynamic model to evaluate peak surge and onshore inundation along coastal Tamil Nadu for the December 2011 Thane cyclone event. Post-storm analysis and field reconnaissance survey report from IMD and ICMAM were available for the Thane cyclone to skill assess model computation. The model that computed peak surge and onshore inundation is in good concurrence with field measurements. The study signifies that near-shore beach slope has a direct bearing on onshore inundation, and its importance in numerical modeling is highlighted. This study being first of its kind for Indian coast, emphasized that coastal inundation modeling should form an integral part in a storm surge prediction system for operational needs.     

近岸流对波浪传播影响的数值分析

使用近岸波浪模型SWAN计算存在沿岸流和离岸流时的近岸波浪传播。先设离岸流u=0m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀沿岸流的流速和梯度对波高传播的影响;再设沿岸流v=0.5m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀离岸流的流速和梯度对波能高传播的影响。从模拟中得到,近岸波浪传播受沿岸流、离岸流的流速和梯度影响时,波高的变化规律。     

Temperature variability caused by internal tides in the coastal waters of east coast of Peninsular Malaysia

The effects of tidal currents (i.e., barotropic and internal tides) are important in the biogeochemistry of a coastal shelf sea. The high-frequency of currents and near-bottom temperatures collected in three consecutive southwest monsoon seasons (May, June, July and August of 2013 until 2015) is presented to reveal the role of the tidal currents to the temperature variability in the coastal shelf sea of the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia (ECPM), south of the South China Sea (SCS). The results of a spectral density and harmonic analysis demonstrate that the near-bottom temperature variability and the tidal currents are influenced by diurnal (O₁ and K₁) and semidiurnal (M₂) tidal currents. The spectral density of residual currents (detided data) at 5, 10 and 16 m depth also shows significant peaks at the diurnal tidal frequency (K₁) and small peaks at the semidiurnal tidal frequency (M₂) indicating the existence of internal tides. The result of the horizontal kinetic energy (HKE) shows a strong intermittent energy of internal tides in the ECPM with the strongest energy is found at 16 m depth during a sporadic cooling event in June and July. A high horizontal cross-shore heat flux (16 m) also indicates strong intrusions of cooler water into the ECPM in June and July. During the short duration of cold pulse water observed in June and July, a cross-wavelet analysis also reveals the strong relationship between the near-bottom temperatures and the internal tidal currents at the diurnal tidal frequency. The intrusion of this cooler water is probably related to the monsoon-induced upwelling in June. It is loosely interpreted that the interaction between the strong barotropic tides and the steep slope in the central basin of the SCS under the stratified condition in southwest monsoon has generated these internal tides. The dissipation of internal tides from the slope area probably has driven the cold-upwelled water into the ECPM coastal shelf sea when the upwelling intensity is the highest in June and July.     

二维潮流数学模型的四边形等参单元法

本文在有限差分和有限元法的基础上，采用四边形等参单元，对在河海域进行了潮流数学模型计算，计算表明：该方法既能较好地拟合边界，又可减少网格划分等前期工作，所得结果与实测资料基本一致。     

Numerical study on water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water

In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave propagated to a coastal zone from different directions.     

基于FVCOM的南海北部海域潮汐潮流数值模拟

基于非结构三角形网格的FVCOM(finite-volume coastal ocean model )数值模型, 对南海北部海域的潮汐、潮流进行了精细化数值模拟研究, 并根据模拟结果详细分析了M2, S2, K1, O1 分潮的潮汐和潮流特征。研究结果表明: 神泉港到甲子港海域表现为正规全日潮性质, 珠江口附近海区潮汐以不正规半日潮为主, 其他海域主要表现为不规则全日潮; 陆架海域和深水海域主要表现为往复流, 陆架坡折区存在较强的旋转流, 陆架坡折区为不规则半日潮流和不规则全日潮流的分界线; 东沙群岛附近海域以不规则全日潮流为主, 旋转方向为顺时针; 整个海域的最大流速分布与等深线基本平行, 东沙群岛附近速度明显变大, 最大值出现在台湾浅滩附近, 最大值超过70 cm/s; 南海潮波系统以巴士海峡传入的大洋潮波为主, 分为三支潮流, 以不同的形式进出南海北部海域; 余流在台湾浅滩附近达到最大, 超过6 cm/s, 自南向北进入台湾海峡, 近岸余流自东向西沿岸流动。本研究在东沙群岛周边的模拟结果与前人基于实测资料的分析吻合较好, 并且由于采用了高精度的三角网格, 本文对东沙群岛周边海域的潮汐潮流结构和性质的刻画和分析是迄今为止较为精细的, 同时本研究还提高了对沿岸验潮站调和常数的模拟精度。     

日照市海岸带保护与利用初探

在生态文明建设背景下,如何构建人-海和谐的海岸带空间发展格局,是海岸带开发利用过程中亟须探索的问题。文章通过SWOT分析方法对日照市海岸带的优势与劣势、机遇与威胁进行了详细分析,并据此提出了差别化管制的海岸线分类、海岸带功能分区利用和陆海统筹的空间管控策略,同时强调了海岸带综合管理体系建设的重要意义,为协调日照海岸带资源开发利用与生态建设的关系,合理布局海洋产业带来思考。     

中国东部海域潮汐余流特征及其动力分析

潮汐余流对中国东部海域物质输运过程起着重要作用。通过对中国东部海域的三维数值模拟,计算了潮汐余流并从潮余涡量角度分析了其形成机制。中国东部海域的欧拉余流在水深较浅的朝鲜半岛沿岸、苏北浅滩、长江浅滩、闽浙沿岸,以及冲绳海槽附近海域,流速量级较大,以余流涡旋的形式呈现,其机制为局部地形差异和潮汐水位高度波动下,科氏效应或摩擦效应导致潮周期内存在净涡量。斯托克斯漂流量级在浅水区较大,而在深水海域则远小于欧拉余流。拉格朗日余流在深水区域与欧拉余流相似,在浅水区域由欧拉余流和斯托克斯漂流共同决定。输运余流和拉格朗日余流分布特征更接近,特别是在近岸海域,但两者的物理意义并不相同。潮汐余流由于常年稳定存在,且在许多海域的流动方向同已知的沿岸流系的方向基本一致,是中国东部海域沿岸流的重要组成部分。估算出了输运余流对沿岸流的贡献率或抑制率,输运余流对近岸陆源沉积物输运和沉积物分布具有不可忽略的作用。     

莱州湾东部外航道回淤预测及影响因素

为探讨外航道回淤特征,采用二维波浪潮流泥沙数学模型,模拟研究了莱州湾东部航道回淤情况并探讨了其影响因素,以期对航道泥沙输运研究提供借鉴。研究表明,正常天气下,水流跨越航道,流速减小、挟沙能力下降导致的悬沙落淤是航道淤积的主要原因,但淤积量有限。大风浪是造成航道淤积的主要动力因素,其淤积泥沙主要来源于海底侵蚀来沙,河流来沙和沿岸输沙对航道淤积的贡献不大。从水深地形、泥沙来源、底质类型、水文动力条件等方面分析,航道发生骤淤的可能性较小。     

胶州湾潮汐潮流动边界数值模拟

基于普林斯顿海洋模式,通过干湿网格判别法引入潮汐潮流的漫滩过程,考虑M₂,S₂,K₁,O₁,M₄和MS₄六个主要分潮,建立了胶州湾潮汐潮流数值模拟和预报模型,研究了该海域潮汐潮流特征,并讨论了漫滩对潮流模拟的影响。与实测资料的对比验证表明,该模式能够对胶州湾的潮汐和潮流做出较为合理的预测。给出了胶州湾潮汐、潮流、余流等分布特征,模拟的潮流场以及余流场涡旋等现象与观测符合良好;计算了潮波能通量,从能量角度探讨了潮波的传播特性;对潮位与潮流场演变规律,以及潮能通量的分析表明,胶州湾内的潮波以驻波为主。通过数值试验发现,漫滩过程的引入对胶州湾潮流速度的模拟至关重要,不考虑漫滩过程的模式会夸大或者低估潮流流速。对于滩涂面积广阔的海域来说,潮流数值模式中考虑漫滩的影响是必要的。     

Effect of Distortion Ratio on Local Scour Under Tidal Currents and Waves

Five generalized physical models of drfferent distortion ratios were bruit according to DOU Guo-ren‘s similarity theory of total sediment transport modeling for estuarine and coastal regions. Experiments on local scour in front of groins were made under the actions of tidal currents and waves with clear and sediment entraining water. The scour depths under different dynamic actions are compared. The effect of the distortion ratio on the depth of scour hole is discussed. A relationship between scour depths for distorted and undistorted models is given.