Bedforms and depositional sedimentary structures of a barred nearshore system, eastern Long Island, New York

The depositional sedimentary structures and textures of a single-barred nearshore system on the Atlantic coast of eastern Long Island, New York, were studied along seven shore-normal transects. Data along these transects consisted of textural analysis of 160 sediment samples, temporal bedform observations, and 42 can cores for the analysis of sedimentary structures.

Six sedimentary subenvironments were observed, based on distinct combinations of sediment color and texture, bedforms, physical, and biogenic sedimentary structures, and benthic infaunal communities. The shoreface environment is divided into the upper shoreface, the longshore trough, and the longshore bar. The divisions of the inner shelf environment are the shoreface-inner shelf transition, the offshore, and the coarse-grained deposit. The first five subenvironments are arranged in bands parallel to the shoreline, whereas the coarse-grained deposit occurs in patches across the inner shelf.

The location of fair-weather wave base, coinciding with a reduction in slope (3.0–0.3°) from the shoreface to the inner shelf, is characterized by the cessation of debris surge in the troughs of ripples, the formation of a “rust layer” of microorganisms over the bedform surface, and a sediment color change caused by an increase in organic detritus. The sequence of bedforms and physical sedimentary structures observed in this system fits well with existing wave-generated (oscillatory) flow regime models. These models explain the observed sequences as a response to the degree of asymmetric flow created by shoaling waves. Distribution of biogenic structures and assemblages of infaunal organisms is influenced by the distance landward or seaward of fair-weather wave base.

The overall relationships of this nearshore system can then be summarized as a hypothetical prograding stratigraphic sequence. The entire sequence is underlain by organic-rich, bioturbated, offshore deposits. Overlying the offshore is the planar-laminated sediments of the transition. Grading upward from the transition are the cleaner, planar-laminated, seaward slope deposits of the longshore bar. Above this, is a distinct erosional surface indicating the base of the massive to cross-laminated coarse sediments of the longshore trough. Capping the sequence are the cross- to planar-laminated, clean sands of the upper shoreface and foreshore.     

Sedimentary geology of the Columbia River Estuary

A multiyear study of the sedimentary geology of the Columbia River Estuary has provided valuable data regarding sediment distribution, bedform distribution, and suspended sediment distribution on spatial and temporal scales that permit delineation of sedimentary environments and insight into the sedimentary processes that have shaped the estuary. In comparison to other more-intensively studied estuaries in North America, the Columbia River estuary has relatively larger tidal range (maximum semidiurnal range of 3.6m) and large riverflow (6,700m³s⁻¹). Variations in riverflow, sediment supply, and tidal flow occur over a range of time scales, making the study of modern processes, as they relate to long-term effects, particularly challenging.Analyses of more than 2000 bottom-sediment grab samples indicate that the bed material of the estuary varies in a relatively narrow range between 0 and 8 phi (1.0 and 0.0039mm) with an overall mean size of 2.5 phi (0.177mm). Sediment size decreases generally in the downstream direction. Sediments from the upriver channels are coarse (1.5–2.0phi; 0.25–0.35mm) and moderately sorted; sediments in the central estuary show wider range and variation in grain size and sorting (1.75–6.0phi; 0.016–0.3mm). Sediment from the entrance region has a mean size of 2.75phi (0.149mm) and is well sorted. Seasonal changes in sediment size distributions occur and are best delineated by those samples containing more than 10% mud (silt plus clay). Sediments containing a significant fine fraction generally occur only in the peripheral bays and in channels isolated from strong currents. Thin deposits of fine sediments are occasionally found in main channels, and the ephemeral nature of these sediments suggest that they may erode and produce the silty rip-up clasts that appear intermittently in the same regions.The distribution of bedforms of various size and shape has been mapped with side-scan sonar during three seasons and at various tidal stages. The presence of bedforms with wavelengths of 6–8m and alternating slip faces about 40cm high indicates that the deeper portion of the entrance region is dominated by tidally reversing lower flow regime sediment transport. Bedforms in the upper reaches of the estuary are much larger, with heights of up to 3m and wavelengths of up to 100m. These bedforms, and the smaller, superimposed bedforms, imply downstream transport under fluvial conditions. In the central estuary, bedforms in the deep portion of the main channels are oriented upriver while those on the shallow flanks of the channels are oriented seaward. The landward limit of upriver bedform transport varies seasonally in response to riverflow fluctuations.A complex array of sedimentary environments exists in the Columbia River estuary. Each environment is influenced by the relative importance of waves, fluvial currents, and tidal currents, as modified by the presence or absence of estuarine circulation, vegetation, or human activity. The importance of these enviroments to the ecosystem of the estuary is discussed in subsequent papers in this volume.     

Mine Burial Experiments at the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory

Several experiments to measure postimpact burial of seafloor mines by scour and fill have been conducted near the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution's Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO, Edgartown, MA). The sedimentary environment at MVCO consists of a series of rippled scour depressions (RSDs), which are large scale bedforms with alternating areas of coarse and fine sand. This allows simultaneous mine burial experiments in both coarse and fine sand under almost identical hydrodynamic forcing conditions. Two preliminary sets of mine scour burial experiments were conducted during winters 2001-2002 in fine sand and 2002-2003 in coarse sand with a single optically instrumented mine in the field of view of a rotary sidescan sonar. From October 2003 to April of 2004, ten instrumented mines were deployed along with several sonar systems to image mine behavior and to characterize bedform and oceanographic processes. In fine sand, the sonar imagery of the mines revealed that large scour pits form around the mines during energetic wave events. Mines fell into their own scour pits, aligned with the dominant wave crests and became level with the ambient seafloor after several energetic wave events. In quiescent periods, after the energetic wave events, the scour pits episodically infilled with mud. After several scour and infilling events, the scour pits were completely filled and a layer of fine sand covered both the mines and the scour pits, leaving no visible evidence of the mines. In the coarse sand, mines were observed to bury until the exposed height above the ripple crests was approximately the same as the large wave orbital ripple height (wavelengths of 50-125 cm and heights of 10-20 cm). A hypothesis for the physical mechanism responsible for this partial burial in the presence of large bedforms is that the mines bury until they present roughly the same hydrodynamic roughness as the orbital-scale bedforms present in coarse sand.     

Sediment-starved sand ridges on a mixed carbonate/siliciclastic inner shelf off west-central Florida

High-resolution side-scan mosaics, sediment analyses, and physical process data have revealed that the mixed carbonate/siliciclastic, inner shelf of west-central Florida supports a highly complex field of active sand ridges mantled by a hierarchy of bedforms. The sand ridges, mostly oriented obliquely to the shoreline trend, extend from 2 km to over 25 km offshore. They show many similarities to their well-known counterparts situated along the US Atlantic margin in that both increase in relief with increasing water depth, both are oriented obliquely to the coast, and both respond to modern shelf dynamics. There are significant differences in that the sand ridges on the west-central Florida shelf are smaller in all dimensions, have a relatively high carbonate content, and are separated by exposed rock surfaces. They are also shoreface-detached and are sediment-starved, thus stunting their development. Morphological details are highly distinctive and apparent in side-scan imagery due to the high acoustic contrast. The seafloor is active and not a relict system as indicated by: (1) relatively young AMS ¹⁴C dates (<1600 yr BP) from forams in the shallow subsurface (1.6 meters below seafloor), (2) apparent shifts in sharply distinctive grayscale boundaries seen in time-series side-scan mosaics, (3) maintenance of these sharp acoustic boundaries and development of small bedforms in an area of constant and extensive bioturbation, (4) sediment textural asymmetry indicative of selective transport across bedform topography, (5) morphological asymmetry of sand ridges and 2D dunes, and (6) current-meter data indicating that the critical threshold velocity for sediment transport is frequently exceeded. Although larger sand ridges are found along other portions of the west-central Florida inner shelf, these smaller sand ridges are best developed seaward of a major coastal headland, suggesting some genetic relationship. The headland may focus and accelerate the N–S reversing currents. An elevated rock terrace extending from the headland supports these ridges in a shallower water environment than the surrounding shelf, allowing them to be more easily influenced by currents and surface gravity waves. Tidal currents, storm-generated flows, and seasonally developed flows are shore-parallel and oriented obliquely to the NW–SE trending ridges, indicating that they have developed as described by the Huthnance model. Although inner shelf sand ridges have been extensively examined elsewhere, this study is the first to describe them in a low-energy, sediment-starved, dominantly mixed siliciclastic/carbonate sedimentary environment situated on a former limestone platform.     

Sedimentology of the New Hampshire Inner Continental Shelf Based on Subbottom Seismics,Side-Scan Sonar,Bathymetry, and Bottom Samples

Typical of glaciated environments, the inner continental shelf of New Hampshire is composed of bedrock outcrops, remnants of glacial deposits (for example, drumlins), sand and gravel deposits, as well as muddier sediments farther offshore. A number of previous studies have defined the general trends of the New Hampshire inner shelf from the coarser deposits nearer the shore to the muddier outer basins. Most recently, a seismic survey (150 km of side-scan sonar and subbottom seismic profiles), as well as bottom sediment sampling (74 stations), has provided a detailed bottom map of the southern New Hampshire shelf area (landward of the 30-m contour). The surficial sediments within this area range from very fine sand to gravel. Bedrock outcrops are common. The seismic survey indicated several large sand deposits exceeding 6-8 m in thickness that occur relatively close to the coast. These sedimentary units, which are within 3 km of the shoreline, are composed of fine to medium sands. Examination of the general morphology and depositional setting indicates at least some of these features are probably relic ebb tidal delta shoals. However, a large eroding drumlin occurs between two of the sand bodies and may represent the source of these deposits. Additional work is needed to verify the origin of these sediment bodies.     

Ocean current generated sedimentary facies in the Osumi Strait, South of Kyushu, Japan

An investigation of the surface sediments and bedforms in the Osumi Strait, located between Kyushu and Tanegashima, south of Kyushu, Japan, was carried out. The distribution of some characteristics of the surface sediments and bedforms is clarified.In the Osumi Strait, the surface sediments tend to become finer in size, better sorted and lower in specific gravity from southwest to northeast. The bedform distribution shows a systematic change in the same direction. This direction is the same as the direction of sediment transportation and of the current flowing through the Strait. It is considered that these changes in bedforms and sediment properties are formed by the decrease in the energy of the current. The current generating bedforms and sediment distribution is the Osumi Branch Current, one of the branches of the Kuroshio. The sediment transportation is active under the present hydraulic conditions.The sedimentary facies developed in the Osumi Strait is controlled by a unidirectional ocean current. The ocean current is one of the important factors for sedimentary processes where strong ocean current prevails along or near the continental shelf such as around the Japanese Islands.     

Late Holocene estuarine–inner shelf interactions; is there evidence of an estuarine retreat path for Tampa Bay, Florida?

The purpose of this study was to determine if and how a large, modern estuarine system, situated in the middle of an ancient carbonate platform, has affected its adjacent inner shelf both in the past during the last, post-glacial sea-level rise and during the present. An additional purpose was to determine if and how this inner shelf seaward of a major estuary differed from the inner shelves located just to the north and south but seaward of barrier-island shorelines. Through side-scan sonar mosaicking, bathymetric studies, and ground-truthing using surface grab samples as well as diver observations, two large submarine sand plains were mapped – one being the modern ebb-tidal delta and the other interpreted to be a relict ebb-tidal delta formed earlier in the Holocene. The most seaward portion of the inner shelf studied consists of a field of lobate, bathymetrically elevated, fine-sand accumulations, which were interpreted to be sediment-starved 3D dunes surrounded by small 2D dunes composed of coarse molluscan shell gravel. Additionally, exposed limestone hardbottoms supporting living benthic communities were found as well. This modern shelf sedimentary environment is situated on a large, buried shelf valley, which extends eastward beneath the modern Tampa Bay estuary. These observations plus the absence of an incised shelf valley having surficial bathymetric expression, and the absence of sand bodies normally associated with back-tracking estuarine systems indicate that there was no cross-shelf estuarine retreat path formed during the last rise in sea level. Instead, the modern Tampa Bay formed within a mid-platform, low-relief depression, which was flooded by rising marine waters late in the Holocene. With continued sea-level rise in the late Holocene, this early embayment was translated eastward or landward to its present position, whereby a larger ebb-tidal delta prograded out onto the inner shelf. Extensive linear sand ridges, common to the inner shelves to the north and south, did not form in this shelf province because it was a low-energy, open embayment lacking the wave climate and nearshore zone necessary to create such sand bodies. The distribution of bedforms on the inner shelf and the absence of seaward-oriented 2D dunes on the modern ebb-tidal delta indicate that the modern estuarine system has had little effect on its adjacent inner shelf.     

Sedimentary environments of the east-central Bering Sea continental shelf

A factor analysis of 180 bottom sediment samples from the east-central Bering Sea continental shelf identifies five factors that account for 95% of the variation in the 17 whole ø size classes that were used as variables. Factor I represents coarse sediments that have been bypassed in areas of active water circulation. Factors II and III represent fine and very fine sands that have been hydraulically sorted, reworked, and mixed. Factor IV represents coarse to medium silt that has been segregated from areas of relatively high energy. Factor V represents both the production of sediments finer than medium silt and deposition within the lowest-energy environment in this area.Modern and palimpsest sediments are areally prevalent over this section of the shelf. Relict sediments occur in only a few small areas. The dispersal of sediments is affected by surface and tidal currents as well as wave action. Ice rafting is not an important geological agent. Data from the eastcentral Bering Sea shelf indicate that sediments on subarctic continental shelves are not necessarily characterized by an abundance of rocky sediments or gravel.     

Sediments on the continental shelf and slope between Napier and castlepoint,New Zealand

Sediments from the seabed off the eastern side of the North Island, New Zealand, are divided into 12 facies on the basis of grain size and mineralogy of the sand fraction. The facies are grouped into three types; modern detrital sediments, relict detrital sediments, and non‐detrital sediments. The sediments are described in terms of a modified Wentworth grain‐size scale and a modified Folk sediment classification.

The modern detrital sediments range from fine sand near the shore to clayey fine silt on the lower slope. At most places they are bimodal, probably because floes and single grains are deposited together. The relict detrital sediments, which include sands and gravels, occur where deposition is slow on the inner continental shelf and near the shelf edge. Those near the shelf edge include Last Glacial sandy muds that have been winnowed and mixed with Holocene volcanic ash and glauconite. The non‐detrital sediments, which contain forarninifera, volcanic ash, and glauconite, but no detrital sand, occur on anticlinal ridges on the continental slope. In places they overlie muddier sediment deposited during the last glaciation when the sources of river‐borne detritus were nearer than at present and when mud was deposited more rapidly on the ridges than at present.     

近4400a南海北部陆架沉积物的东亚季风记录

对位于海南岛南部陆架的S20孔沉积物进行了岩性、AMS14C年代、粒度和微量元素分析,提取了东亚季风演化的代用指标,初步探讨了该沉积区蕴含的亚洲季风演化信息。结果表明,近4 400 a以来,S20孔研究区受相对稳定的水动力条件控制。主要富集于相对粗粒和细粒物质的Zr/Rb陆源元素比值和19μm细粒敏感粒度组分平均粒径可以作为冬季沿岸流和东亚冬季风强度的代用指标。二者与东海内陆架PC-6孔以及南海17940孔海水表层温度变化表现出良好的相似性,说明中国东南部不同地区季风代用指标揭示出的东亚冬季风演化具有一致性。因此,相对于陆地和深海而言,南海陆架区沉积物中同样蕴含着丰富的季风演化信息,后续高分辨率研究工作亟待开展。     

南海北部陆架坡折附近表层沉积物的粒度特征和其输运趋势

对南海北部陆架坡折附近取的50个表层沉积物样品,作粒度测试,计算粒度参数。粒度分析表明研究区的沉积物主要存在4种类型:含砾砂、砾质砂、砂质砾和含砾泥质砂;沉积物组分中砾石和砂占绝对优势,基本上不含黏土。综合因子分析和聚类分析的结果把研究区划分为4类沉积区:Ⅰ类沉积区属于内陆架沉积区,Ⅱ类沉积区属于陆架坡折上部沉积区,Ⅲ类沉积区属于陆架坡折下部沉积区,Ⅳ类沉积区区属于陆架边缘沉积区,每类沉积区都代表着不同的沉积环境。研究区沉积物的粒径趋势分析结果显示,陆架坡折附近的沉积物主要向内陆架和外陆架边缘或上陆坡输运,同时存在着跨陆架输运和沿陆架坡折输运现象,这与研究区实测的底流方向相一致。本研究表明,南海北部陆架坡折附近的沉积环境和沉积物输运模式比较复杂和特殊。本研究对今后陆架和陆坡区其他相关的研究具有十分重要的指导和借鉴意义。     

冰岛—法罗海脊东南深海底形及底流特征

冰岛—法罗海脊位于东北大西洋和挪威海之间,其东南侧水深600~1 200 m,构成法罗—设德兰水道(FSC)和法罗浅滩水道(FBC),两者相连合为挪威海深水通道(NSDW)。持续而强劲的底层冷水流可搬运并沉积砂和砾级碎屑。利用侧扫声纳图、地震剖面和海底摄像识别出的大小沙波、新月形大沙丘、沙流、沙带、沙影和慧星痕等各种底形分布于顺水道5个区片中。一些大沙丘和沙带等大型底形形成于全新世大西洋期,如今基本稳定,偶尔活动,其他底形均处于运动之中。深海沉积底形结合水文实测资料揭示NSDW水道自(61°N,5°W)向南再向西流,至第3出水口(冰岛盆地),全长约850 km,宽约10~30 km或更宽,冷水底层厚100~200 m,流速0.3~1.0 m/s或更高。在更向南的区域,逐渐混合于东北大西洋。     

Sedimentological processes in the southern margin of the Cretan Sea (NE Mediterranean)

The Cretan Basin can be characterized as a back-arc basin of the Hellenic Trench System, that is related to the subduction zone of the African Plate under the Eurasia Plate. The study area includes the narrow and relatively steep (gradient 1.5°) continental shelf of the island of Crete followed by the steep slope (2°–4°) and the rather flat deeper part of the Cretan basin (water depths >1700 m).Surficial sediments of the coastal zone are coarser and of terrigenous origin, while in deeper waters finer sediments, of biogenic origin, are more abundant. Sand-sized calcareous sediment accumulations, identified in middle-lower slope, may be attributed to the aggregation of seabed biogenic material related to the near bed current activity.High resolution profiles (3.5 kHz) taken from the inner shelf shows a typical sigmoid-oblique progradational configuration, implying prodelta sediment accumulation during the Holocene. In the upper-middle slope, sub-bottom reflectors indicate continuous sedimentation of alternating fine and/or coarse grained material. Small-scale gravity induced synsedimentary faults appeared, locally. In contrast, a series of gravity induced faults, identified in the lower slope, are associated with sediment instabilities due to seismotectonic activity. Sediment cores taken from the shelf-break consists of calcareous muddy sand with small amounts of terrigenous silt and fine sand, while the cores recovered from the middle slope has revealed a more homogeneous fine sediment texture of hemipelagic deposition.The prevailing accumulation processes in the southern margin of the Cretan basin are: (i) prodelta deposition in the inner-middle shelf; (ii) settling from bottom nepheloid layers in the shelf and upper slope; (iii) calcareous sediment formation due to settling from suspension and post accumulation aggregation (middle-lower slope); (iv) long-term episodic sediment gravity processes in the lower slope; and (v) to a lesser extent, redeposition from resuspension due to gravity processes and bottom currents.     

Textural characteristics and morphosedimentary environment of foreshore zone along Ganpatipule,Maharashtra, India

The cross-shore profile and the textural distribution of foreshore sediments of Ganpatipule beach along Maharashtra coast covering two annual cycles are examined. Ganpatipule beach depicts erosion and accretion of the berm, reduction and widening of foreshore widths during the monsoon (June–September) and post-monsoon (October–May), respectively with net sediment accretion during the study period due to the changes in the wave characteristics. A direct correlation is observed between the median sediment grain size and beach-face slopes signifying high wave energy ensuing to a gentle to very gentle slope. The sediments are mainly medium grain size, moderately well sorted, bimodal, very fine skewed to very coarse skewed and very platykurtic to very leptokurtic in nature. The binary plots of the textural parameters (mean, skewness, kurtosis, and standard deviation) depicted a characteristic beach environment of deposition. The study shows that the sediment is concentrated in the environment of rolling and bottom suspension. The study on grain size distribution of sediments could be used to assess the wave energy condition prevailing along the coastal area.     

大连复州湾底质沉积物粒度特征与沉积环境分析

对辽东半岛西部复州湾海域底质沉积物样品进行粒度分析结果表明,其粒度特征有较大差异:样品平均粒径值为1.2~6.5Φ;分选系数为1.4~2.6,分选为较差—差;偏度特征表现为极正偏和极负偏并存。粒度的空间分布存在一定分异规律,由湾内至湾外粒径表现出粗—细—粗的变化特征。粒度变化是对该区域物质输运和地形变化的响应,借助Weibull分布,推断河流携带物质可以被推送至5 m等深线外堆积,5~10 m等深线间沉积物表现为细粒的浅海台地沉积,10 m等深线以外沉积物受河流的影响微弱。矿物学证据也表明,河流输运对湾内沉积物贡献有限,仅限于5 m 等深线以内的水下三角洲,湾内沉积物主要来自于辽东湾沿岸冲刷和湾内基岩的剥蚀。     

渤海南部Lz908孔海陆交互沉积的粒度特征及其对沉积环境的指示

文章对采自莱州湾南岸的钻孔沉积物样品进行了粒度测试和分析。样品平均粒径介于3.3-6.8?,以极细砂和粗粉砂为主,含有少量的粘土质;分选较差;偏度表现为正偏和极正偏;沉积物粒度表现为正态、正态—尖锐和尖锐,少数表现为平坦和极尖锐。粒度象指示了历史时期持续高的初始沉积水动能和多种沉积环境的变化,粒度参数散点图反映了多种动能影响了沉积物的沉积改造,综合判别分析对沉积环境的限定,得到了莱州湾南岸沉积物受到河水径流、潮流、波浪等共同作用形成。沉积物总体反映了莱州湾南岸长时期处于河流相和三角洲相的沉积环境,少数较细的粒度表现可能与研究区的多期海侵过程相对应。     

Large-scale current lineations on the central New Jersey shelf: Investigations by side-scan sonar

Two morphological orders of ridge and trough topography can be recognized on a terraced segment (at 37 m) of the central New Jersey shelf: (1) a first-order system with ridges to 14 m high, 2–6 km apart, in a Z-shaped pattern trending to the NNE, and (2) a second-order system with ridges 2–5 m high, 0.5-1.5 km apart and trends to the NE.Side-scan mapping together with submersible observations and bottom samples indicate a third-order system of large-scale current lineations which has been imprinted across the first- and second-order systems. The lineations are low relief forms (to 1.5 m high) which occur as elongate zones of textural contrast arranged in furrows, bands, patches and ribbons and display a uniform directional trend to the ENE.The morphology of the lineations appear to vary in response to the nature of the bottom. The lineations are narrow (10–25 m apart) and have no detectable relief in troughs and wider (to 75 m apart) and higher (to 1.5 m high) on ridges, especially second-order ridges of fine sand. Also revealed are wave ripple patterns and a pattern related to the outcropping of Pleistocene/Holocene units in trough bottoms and lower flanks.It is suggested that the first- and second-order systems developed during earlier stages of the Holocene transgression in response to a hydraulic regime of the inner shelf. The first-order system may have inherited some of its morphology from an older system, but did respond to a Holocene tidal regime adjacent to a major estuary. The second-order system developed in slightly deeper water, subsequent to the resumption of the transgression after the 37-m stillstand.The third-order lineations appear to be a response to the helical-flow structure within the flow field of a major shelf storm. Ridges of the central shelf may be maintained by alternate periods of oblique sweeping during storms, resulting in a net transport of fine sand out of the troughs and up on the ridges. Subsequent wave reworking returns the fine sand to the troughs.     

Seismic Reflection and Vibracoring Studies of the Continental Shelf Offshore Central and Western Long Island,New York

The ridge-and-swale topography on the continental shelf south of Fire Island, New York, is characterized by northeast-trending linear shoals that are shore attached and shore oblique on the inner shelf and isolated and shore parallel on the middle shelf. High-resolution seismic reflection profiles show that the ridges and swales occur independent of, and are not controlled by, the presence of internal structures (for example, filled tidal inlet channels, paleobarrier strata) or underlying structure (for example, high-relief Cretaceous unconformity). Grab samples of surficial sediments on the shelf south of Fire Island average 98 % sand. Locally, benthic fauna increase silt and clay content through fecal pellet production or increase the content of gravel-size material by contribution of their fragmented shell remains. Surficial sand on the ridges is unimodal at 0.33 mm (medium sand, about 50 mesh), and surficial sand in troughs is bimodal at 0.33 mm and 0.15 mm (fine sand, about 100 mesh). In addition to seismic studies, 26 vibracores were recovered from the continental shelf in state and federal waters from south of Rockaway and Long Beaches, Long Island, New York. Stratigraphic and sedimentological data gleaned from these cores were used to outline the geologic framework in the study area. A variety of sedimentary features were noted in the cores, including burrow-mottled sections of sand in a finer silty-sand, rhythmic lamination of sand and silty-sand that reflect cyclic changes in sediment transport, layers of shell hash and shells that probably represent tempestites, and changes from dark color to light color in the sediments that probably represent changes in the oxidation reduction conditions in the area with time. The stratigraphic units identified are an upper, generally oxidized,nearshore facies, an underlying fine-to medium-sand and silty-clay unit considered to be an estuarine facies, and a lower, coarse-grained, deeply oxidized, cross-laminated preHolocene unit. Grain-size analysis shows that medium-to fine-grained sand makes up most (68-99 %) of the surficial sediments. Gravel exists in trace amounts up to 19 %. Silt ranges between 3 % and 42 %, and clay ranges from 1 % to 10 %.     

Seismic Reflection and Vibracoring Studies of the Continental Shelf Offshore Central and Western Long Island, New York

The ridge-and-swale topography on the continental shelf south of Fire Island, New York, is characterized by northeast-trending linear shoals that are shore attached and shore oblique on the inner shelf and isolated and shore parallel on the middle shelf. High-resolution seismic reflection profiles show that the ridges and swales occur independent of, and are not controlled by, the presence of internal structures (for example, filled tidal inlet channels, paleobarrier strata) or underlying structure (for example, high-relief Cretaceous unconformity). Grab samples of surficial sediments on the shelf south of Fire Island average 98 % sand. Locally, benthic fauna increase silt and clay content through fecal pellet production or increase the content of gravel-size material by contribution of their fragmented shell remains. Surficial sand on the ridges is unimodal at 0.33 mm (medium sand, about 50 mesh), and surficial sand in troughs is bimodal at 0.33 mm and 0.15 mm (fine sand, about 100 mesh). In addition to seismic studies, 26 vibracores were recovered from the continental shelf in state and federal waters from south of Rockaway and Long Beaches, Long Island, New York. Stratigraphic and sedimentological data gleaned from these cores were used to outline the geologic framework in the study area. A variety of sedimentary features were noted in the cores, including burrow-mottled sections of sand in a finer silty-sand, rhythmic lamination of sand and silty-sand that reflect cyclic changes in sediment transport, layers of shell hash and shells that probably represent tempestites, and changes from dark color to light color in the sediments that probably represent changes in the oxidation reduction conditions in the area with time. The stratigraphic units identified are an upper, generally oxidized,nearshore facies, an underlying fine-to medium-sand and silty-clay unit considered to be an estuarine facies, and a lower, coarse-grained, deeply oxidized, cross-laminated preHolocene unit. Grain-size analysis shows that medium-to fine-grained sand makes up most (68-99 %) of the surficial sediments. Gravel exists in trace amounts up to 19 %. Silt ranges between 3 % and 42 %, and clay ranges from 1 % to 10 %.     

Effect of roughness formulation on the performance of a coupled wave,hydrodynamic, and sediment transport model

A variety of algorithms are available for parameterizing the hydrodynamic bottom roughness associated with grain size, saltation, bedforms, and wave–current interaction in coastal ocean models. These parameterizations give rise to spatially and temporally variable bottom-drag coefficients that ostensibly provide better representations of physical processes than uniform and constant coefficients. However, few studies have been performed to determine whether improved representation of these variable bottom roughness components translates into measurable improvements in model skill. We test the hypothesis that improved representation of variable bottom roughness improves performance with respect to near-bed circulation, bottom stresses, or turbulence dissipation. The inner shelf south of Martha’s Vineyard, Massachusetts, is the site of sorted grain-size features which exhibit sharp alongshore variations in grain size and ripple geometry over gentle bathymetric relief; this area provides a suitable testing ground for roughness parameterizations. We first establish the skill of a nested regional model for currents, waves, stresses, and turbulent quantities using a uniform and constant roughness; we then gauge model skill with various parameterization of roughness, which account for the influence of the wave-boundary layer, grain size, saltation, and rippled bedforms. We find that commonly used representations of ripple-induced roughness, when combined with a wave–current interaction routine, do not significantly improve skill for circulation, and significantly decrease skill with respect to stresses and turbulence dissipation. Ripple orientation with respect to dominant currents and ripple shape may be responsible for complicating a straightforward estimate of the roughness contribution from ripples. In addition, sediment-induced stratification may be responsible for lower stresses than predicted by the wave–current interaction model.