Generation of internal waves by a barotropic tide in the coastal zone

Within the framework of the linear theory of long waves, we study internal waves generated by a barotropic tide in a two-layer ocean of variable depth taking into account the influence of the Coriolis force. Barotropic waves run over an extended unevenness of the bottom at an arbitrary angle. This unevenness is regarded as a model of the continental slope and shelf. We establish the dependences of the amplitudes of generated internal waves on the angle of incidence of the barotropic tide, topography of the bottom, and stratification. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev     

莫桑比克海峡及其邻近海区正压潮流数值模拟与能量收支分析

莫桑比克海峡及其邻近海区是全球海洋潮流和潮能耗散最强的海区之一。文章利用高分辨率通用环流模式对该海区的正压潮流进行模拟, 并对该海区潮能通量和潮能耗散特征进行分析。结果表明, 莫桑比克海峡及其邻近海区的潮波主要是半日分潮占主导地位, 全日分潮可忽略不计, M₂分潮形成1个左旋潮波系统和1个右旋潮波系统, S₂分潮形成1个左旋潮波系统。莫桑比克海峡和马达加斯加岛南部等绝大数区域的M₂和S₂半日潮流是逆时针旋转, 在马达加斯加岛顶部等局部区域是顺时针旋转, 而且在海峡通道等复杂地形处潮流流速量级较大。潮能通量矢量主要来自东边界, 大部分潮能通量沿马达加斯岛北部传入莫桑比克海峡区域, 其中经过马达加斯加岛北部和进入莫桑比克海峡的M₂ (S₂)分潮的潮能通量分别为156.86GW (40.53GW)和148.07GW (36.05GW), S₂分潮潮能通量的量级大约为M₂分潮的1/5~1/4。底摩擦耗散主要发生莫桑比克海峡和马达加斯加岛南北部, 其中莫桑比克海峡M₂ (S₂)分潮的底摩擦耗散为1.762GW (0.460GW), 占其底部总耗散的43.74% (39.72%)。     

Simulation of barotropic and baroclinic tides in the South China Sea

The four leading tidal constituents M2, S2, K1 and O1 in the South China Sea are simulated by using POM. The model is forced with tide-generating potential and four leading tidal constituents at the open boundary. In order to simulate more exactly, TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter data are assimilated into the model and the open boundary is optimized. The computed co-tidal charts for M2 and K1 constituents are generally consistent with previous results in this region. The numerical simulation shows that energetic internal tides are generated over the bottom topography such as the Dongsha Islands, the Xisha Islands, the Zhongsha Islands, the Nansha Islands and the Luzon Strait.     

Influence of processes of nonlinear transformations of waves in the coastal zone on the height of breaking waves

Using data from laboratory, field, and numerical experiments, we investigated regularities in changes in the relative limit height of breaking waves (the breaking index) from peculiarities of nonlinear wave transformations and type of wave breaking. It is shown that the value of the breaking index depends on the relative part of the wave energy in the frequency range of the second nonlinear harmonic. If this part is more than 35%, then the breaking index can be taken as a constant equal to 0.6. These waves are spilling breaking waves, asymmetric on the horizontal axis, and are almost symmetric on the vertical axis. If this part of the energy is less than 35%, then the breaking index increases with increasing energy in the frequency range of the second harmonic. These waves are plunging breaking waves, asymmetric on the vertical axis, and are almost symmetric on the horizontal axis. It is revealed that the breaking index depends on the asymmetry of waves on the vertical axis, determined by the phase shift between the first and second nonlinear harmonic (biphase). It is shown that the relation between the amplitudes of the second and first nonlinear harmonics for an Ursell number less than 1 corresponds to Stokes’ second-order wave theory. The empirical dependences of the breaking index on the parameters of nonlinear transformation of waves are proposed.     

Computations of the energy flux to mixing processes via baroclinic wave drag on barotropic tides

The geographical distribution of barotropic to baroclinic transfer of tidal energy by baroclinic wave drag in the abyssal ocean is estimated. Using tidal velocities from a state-of-the-art numerical tidal model, the total loss of barotropic tidal energy in the deep ocean (between 70°S and 70°N and at depths greater than 1000 m) is estimated to be about 0.7 TW (M₂) corresponding to a mean value of the energy flux (e) of 2.4×10⁻³ W/m². The distribution of e is however highly skewed with a median of about 10⁻⁶ W/m². Only 10% of the area is responsible for more than 97% of the total energy transfer.To assess the possible influence of the relatively coarse bathymetry representation upon the present estimate, complementary calculations using better resolved sea floor topography are carried out over a control area around the Hawaiian Ridge. There are no major differences between the results achieved using the two different bathymetry databases. Fluxes of about 16 GW or 6×10⁻³ W/m² are computed in both cases, and the main contributions to the total fluxes originate in the same range of e-values and cover equally large parts of the total area.It is not clear whether the present model is valid at flat or subcritical bottom slopes. However, for the Hawaiian region, only 2% of the total energy flux as calculated in the present study originates in areas of critical and subcritical slopes.     

Flow resistance in the coastal zone

The apparent bed roughness, the roughness value experienced by a mean flow outside the wave-boundary layer, is deduced from the physical bed roughness and the wave–current interaction mechanism. Both the physical bed roughness and the wave–current interaction are described by a (combination of) model(s). Modelling of the apparent bed roughness leads to realistic results, however, the final results are rather sensitive to the particular choice of these models. Four bed form models and two wave–current interaction models were implemented in a 1-DV flow model to calculate near-bed velocities. A comparison between measured and predicted velocities shows that reasonable results can be obtained in this way. A constant bed roughness of 0.1 m, however, leads to even better results at this site during all conditions. This can be explained by the reversed influence of the form roughness and the wave–current interaction on the apparent bed roughness value for varying wave conditions.     

日本沿岸水域的赤潮监测研究及其防治对策

赤潮或有害藻华已越来越成为全球性的海洋环境问题，赤潮的发生不但破坏水域生态系统的平衡，而且给水产养殖业造成了巨大损失。本文概述了日本赤潮监测研究及其防治对策的现状，以便为我国在赤潮调查研究工作中提供一些有益的经验     

Morphogenetic classification of the Arctic coastal zone

Arctic coastal evolution is the result of interactions between exogenic and endogenic processes. In the arctic region, this evolution differs from that in other areas of the worlds oceans as a result of interactions between modern wave and ice factors, and the influences of glaciations and large-scale sea level changes in the past. Geologic structure, origin and development determine contemporary relief morphology. Morphology appears to be the most significant relief characteristic, but it is controlled by a set of interactive processes active over long periods. Our approach, in which a multitude of interacting factors are simultaneously analyzed and determined, could be called morphogenetic. We consider marine coasts and offshore zones (shelf) as a unit, and providing a general explanation for their evolution. The classification presented here is based upon the general approach given in the Science and Implementation Plan of Arctic Coastal Dynamics (ACD), a project of the International Arctic Science Committee and the International Permafrost Association. Our classification extends beyond the morphological ACD classification to include a morphogenetic classification.     

海岸带综合管理的信息需求

1 信息在ICZM中的效应 海岸带综合管理(ICZM)不同于传统的管理方式,它促进了人们对每岸带特有的自然资源及其在人类各种活动影响下可持续利用的了解,丰富管理者的知识。同时,ICZM通过综合环境、社会和经济信息,使海岸带资源系统的综合利用达到最优化。 在ICZM的实践中,如果缺乏必要的信息,将被视为影响ICZM进程的障碍因素。此外,ICZM的特点之一,它不是对资源利用的直接管     

Variability of internal tides in the coastal water area of Oahu Island (Hawaii)

The variability of the parameters of semidiurnal internal tides in Mamala Bay (Oahu Island, Hawaii) was investigated using the experimental data obtained with ADCP bottom current profilers and ther-mistor strings. It was stated that the size, shape, and orientation of the orbits, as well as the sign of the rotation of the orbital currents, are rarely similar to those characteristic of progressive internal waves on a rotating Earth. It is supposed that such unusual features of the orbital currents are related to the interference of the waves that arrive from the straits rimming Oahu Island and to the waves that, under favorable conditions, are episodically generated at the shelf edge of Mamala Bay. Due to the fact that the floor inclinations of the shelf in the bay are supercritical for semidiurnal internal tides, the local generation of internal tides is poorly efficient.     

Scenarios of nonlinear wave transformation in the coastal zone

On the basis of field experiments and numerical modeling, we show that coastal zones are classifiable according to manifestations of wind wave nonlinearity, which herein is recognized as periodic energy exchange between the first and second nonlinear wave harmonics depending on the average bottom slope and the Iribarren and Ursell numbers. The results offer a basis for developing vulnerability criteria for the coastal zone taking into account its nonlinear dynamics.     

Dimethylsulfide in coastal zone of the East China Sea

Dimethylsulfide (DMS) in seawater were observed four times from February 1993 to August 1994 along a fixed section (PN line) in the East China Sea. The DMS concentrations showed remarkable temporal and spatial variations. The DMS concentrations were generally higher in the upper euphotic layer of the continental shelf zone in summer. The spatial variation, however, was more pronounced even in well mixed winter water, where the concentration of DMS varied widely from 3 to 106 ng-S/l in the continental shelf zone while the salinity was vertically almost uniform. This means that DMS in seawater is rapidly produced and decomposed with a time scale less than one month in the water column. The largest value of 376 ng-S/l was obtained at 5 m depth near the mouth of Changjiang River in August 1994. The mean concentrations in the surface 30 m layer in the continental shelf zone were 21, 54, 126 and 57 ng-S/l in February, October, June and August, respectively, which were about twice as large as those in the Kuroshio region. The mean fluxes of DMS from the East China Sea to the atmosphere are estimated to be 49 g-S/m²/day in winter and 194 g-S/m²/day in summer in the continental shelf zone, and to be 32 and 107 g-S/m²/day in the Kuroshio region.     

浙江海区赤潮生物监测与赤潮实时预测

根据赤潮生物细胞密度法及其增长速率和其它理化的环境要素 ,并结合卫星遥感实时监测 ,对浙北海域的夜光藻等引发的赤潮进行了试验性预警和实时预测 ,为预防和减少赤潮灾害进行了有益的探索。     

Situation of integrated coastal zone management in Central America: Experiences of the IUCN wetlands and coastal zone conservation program

Central American coastal zones possess extensive scenic and geographical wealth as well as great biological diversity. These coasts maintain 21.6% of the region’s population and produce at least US$ 750 million alone in fishing activities that provide work and sustenance for more than 450 000 persons in the region. Eight percent of the world’s mangroves are located in Central America, as well as the second largest corral reef barrier on the planet. A good representation of the region’s natural heritage is conserved in approximately 110 protected areas. Due to these special conditions, at least 50% of Central America’s coastal zones is devoted to tourism, one of the three primary economic activities in four of the region’s countries. Integrated coastal zone management (ICZM) in this region has been limited by information gaps, restricted technical and financial capacity, and strong sectoralism. Some recent projects, both governmental and supported by NGOs, offer new experience and lessons on regional ICZM. These initiatives have been backed at the ministerial and presidential level by a large number of political agreements within the framework of the ‘alliance for sustainable development’ (ALIDES).     

Biological indicators in the Caribbean coastal zone and their role in integrated coastal management

Caribbean coastal ecosystems are increasingly being threatened by natural and anthropogenic factors. The scale of these factors is at local, national, regional and global levels. Threats include the effects of fisheries and extraction, eutrophication, siltation, and pollution as well as global climate events such as El Niño and global climate change. Integrated coastal management (ICM) should clearly demonstrate the adverse effects of environmental impacts, thus justifying the need for mitigation and should evaluate the success of management efforts. ICM requires robust indicators that gauge the ‘health’ of the coast in relation to environmental, social and economic activities. Biological indicators (bioindicators) offer a signal of the biological condition in an ecosystem. Using bioindicators as an early warning of pollution or degradation in an ecosystem can help sustain critical resources. Biological indicators in the Caribbean are focused around particular ecosystems, especially coral reefs, seagrass beds and mangrove forests and include a range of biological parameters relating to particular species, groups of species and biological processes. The use of these indicators is critically reviewed and the presence or absence of a relevant framework for their use in Caribbean ICM programs is discussed.     

Electronic atlas of the Russian Arctic coastal zone

A set of digital maps including geology, Quaternary sediments, landscapes, engineering-geological, vegetation, geocryological and the series of regional sources have been selected to characterize the Russian Arctic coast. Based on this data, new maps of engineering geocryological zoning and zoning of the coast with respect to the intensity of exogenous geological processes and risk of technogenic impacts have been generated at the scales of 1:4,000,000–1:8,000,000. These maps are a tool to assess the impact of industry on the Arctic coast of the country.     

Three-dimensional circulation in the NW Africa coastal transition zone

High-resolution data collected southeast of the Canary Islands during late winter 2006 are analyzed to describe the hydrography and three-dimensional circulation in the coastal transition zone off NW Africa. The data are optimally interpolated over a regular grid, the geostrophic velocity field is calculated and the Q-vector formulation of the omega equation is used to compute the quasi-geostrophic (QG) mesoscale vertical velocity. The coastal transition zone is divided into upwelling, frontal and offshore regions with distinct physical and dynamic characteristics. The upwelling region is characterized by cold and weakly stratified waters flowing towards the equator, with a poleward undercurrent of approximately 0.05 m s⁻¹ over the continental slope. The frontal region exhibits a southwestward baroclinic jet associated with cross-shore raising isopycnals; the jet transport is close to 1 Sv, with maximum velocities of 0.18 m s⁻¹ at surface decreasing to 0.05 m s⁻¹ at 300 db. Vertical sections across the frontal region show the presence of deep eddies probably generated by the topographic blocking of the islands to the southward current, as well as much shallower eddies that likely have arisen as instabilities of the baroclinic upwelling jet. The QG mesoscale vertical velocity field is patchy, estimated to range from −18 to 12 m day⁻¹, with the largest absolute values corresponding to an anticyclonic eddy located south of Fuerteventura Island. These values are significantly larger than estimates for other vertical velocities: diapycnal vertical velocities associated with mixing in the frontal region (a few meters per day), and wind-induced vertical velocities (non-linear Ekman pumping arising from the interaction between the wind stress and the background vorticity, maximum values of a few meters per day; linear Ekman pumping due to the divergence of Ekman transport, a fraction of a meter per day; or the coastal constraint in the upwelling region, about 0.7 m day⁻¹). However, the patchiness in both the QG mesoscale vertical velocity and the non-linear Ekman pumping velocity cause their integrated vertical transports to be one order of magnitude smaller than either coastal Ekman transport (0.08 Sv), integrated linear Ekman pumping (−0.05 Sv) or diapycnal transfer (about 0.1–0.2 Sv). The pattern of the near-surface fluorescence field is a good indicator of these different contributions, with large homogeneous values in the coastal upwelling region and a patchy structure associated with the offshore mesoscale structures.     

Temperature variability caused by internal tides in the coastal waters of east coast of Peninsular Malaysia

The effects of tidal currents (i.e., barotropic and internal tides) are important in the biogeochemistry of a coastal shelf sea. The high-frequency of currents and near-bottom temperatures collected in three consecutive southwest monsoon seasons (May, June, July and August of 2013 until 2015) is presented to reveal the role of the tidal currents to the temperature variability in the coastal shelf sea of the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia (ECPM), south of the South China Sea (SCS). The results of a spectral density and harmonic analysis demonstrate that the near-bottom temperature variability and the tidal currents are influenced by diurnal (O₁ and K₁) and semidiurnal (M₂) tidal currents. The spectral density of residual currents (detided data) at 5, 10 and 16 m depth also shows significant peaks at the diurnal tidal frequency (K₁) and small peaks at the semidiurnal tidal frequency (M₂) indicating the existence of internal tides. The result of the horizontal kinetic energy (HKE) shows a strong intermittent energy of internal tides in the ECPM with the strongest energy is found at 16 m depth during a sporadic cooling event in June and July. A high horizontal cross-shore heat flux (16 m) also indicates strong intrusions of cooler water into the ECPM in June and July. During the short duration of cold pulse water observed in June and July, a cross-wavelet analysis also reveals the strong relationship between the near-bottom temperatures and the internal tidal currents at the diurnal tidal frequency. The intrusion of this cooler water is probably related to the monsoon-induced upwelling in June. It is loosely interpreted that the interaction between the strong barotropic tides and the steep slope in the central basin of the SCS under the stratified condition in southwest monsoon has generated these internal tides. The dissipation of internal tides from the slope area probably has driven the cold-upwelled water into the ECPM coastal shelf sea when the upwelling intensity is the highest in June and July.