A model for obliquely incident wave interacting with a multi-layered object

This paper presents an analytical solution for scattering of oblique incident, small amplitude, monochromatic wave trains by a stationary rigid multi-layered objects with rectangular cross-section. The object is infinite long and consists of multilayers, which can be either solid or permeable. This paper extends the previous work by Hu and Liu [1] from normal incident wave condition with a special object configuration to oblique incident waves with multi-layered object. The present model is validated with several existing solutions for normal/oblique waves interacting with a single object; excellent agreement is observed. New numerical results are presented to investigate the effects of incidence angle on reflection, transmission and energy loss coefficients for a combined floating and bottom-mounted permeable breakwater. A new floating board-cage breakwater is developed from the present model and its solutions are discussed in detail. A computer program, AWAS-P, has been updated so that it is applicable for both oblique and normal incident waves, while the object is multi-layered.     

Wave diffraction on arc-shaped floating perforated breakwaters

An analytical method is developed to study the sheltering effects on arc-shaped floating perforated breakwaters. In the process of analysis, the floating breakwater is assumed to be rigid, thin, vertical, and immovable and located in water with constant depth. The fluid domain is divided into two regions by imaginary interface. The velocity potential in each region is expanded by eigenfunction in the context of linear theory. By satisfying continuity of pressure and normal velocity across the imaginary fluid interface, a set of linear algebraic equations can be obtained to determine the unknown coefficients for eigenfunction expansions. The accuracy of the present model was verified by a comparison with existing results for the case of arc-shaped floating breakwater. Numerical results, in the form of contour maps of the non-dimensional wave amplitude around the breakwater and diffracted wave amplitude at typical sections, are presented for a range of wave and breakwater parameters. Results show that the sheltering effects on the arc-shaped floating perforated breakwater are closely related to the incident wavelength, the draft and the porosity of the breakwater.     

Transmission of obliquely incident waves at low-crested breakwaters: Theoretical interpretations of experimental observations

The paper presents a series of analytical and numerical investigations of oblique wave transmission at low-crested breakwaters. For a smooth breakwater, two important features of wave height and direction are analyzed to establish the generic nature of the wave transmission process at oblique incidence. The proposed framework of research is validated against laboratory data from the EU-sponsored project, DELOS. The numerical simulations exhibit a significant decrease of the transmission coefficient with increasingly oblique incidence at a smooth breakwater. The roles of wave-breaking, nonlinearity, wave-induced currents and set-up in determining the characteristics of oblique wave transmission are demonstrated in the paper. It is found that both the amplitude-dependent phase velocity and the decrease of mean wave period contribute to the change of mean wave direction on the transmission side. An attempt has also been made to qualitatively explain the different behaviour of oblique wave transmission at a rubble-mound breakwater.     

3-D non-breaking regular wave interaction with submerged breakwaters

Modelling of the transformation and interaction of regular wave trains with submerged permeable structures is carried out. The existing literature, is summarized relevant theories presented, and theoretical results are compared with existing laboratory data. Special attention is paid to wave reflection. The influence of wave characteristics including oblique incidence, structure geometry and porous material properties on the kinematics and dynamics over and inside the breakwater is considered. Two different models are presented: an eigenfunction expansion 3-D model and a 2-D model based on a mild-slope equation for porous media to account for breakwater slope.     

波浪反射系数谱的特征分析

应用斜向不规则波反射系数的改进两点法(MTPM),用模型试验研究了混凝土护面堤和块石护面堤波浪反射系数的频率谱和方向谱,结果表明,分析的反射系数随入射波频率的增加、结构坡度的减小和入射角的加大而减小.给出了波浪反射系数频率谱及其随Iribarren数变化的规律,提出了反射系数三维谱的经验公式,由此可定量地描述斜向不规则波的反射系数随无量纲特征参数Iribarren数和入射波角度的变化规律.     

On reflection and diffraction due to a detached breakwater

Wave reflection and diffraction due to the presence of a detached breakwater are studied with the aid of directional wave fields. At first, experiments were carried out for the case where a breakwater is the sole factor affecting the wave field. It is shown that, estimated directional spectra in front of a detached breakwater can be separated into two parts in the spatial domain. Denoting these as the incident and reflected part of the total energy, an estimate of the reflection coefficient can be obtained. An empirical equation is proposed. This equation relates the reflection coefficients with the distances of the measuring stations away from the breakwater, as well as directionality of the wave field. This equation was then applied to the experiments where the fishing harbour Ba-Do-Zhi (BDZ) was used as model. It is shown that favorable results are obtained. On the other hand, diffraction due to the detached breakwater was also studied in a similar way. It is shown that predictions based on the empirical equation are in quantitative agreements with measurements. It is proposed that these empirical equations can be used in engineering applications.     

Wave height transformation and set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall

In this study,we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall.Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations,which involve parameters of the porous medium,were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater.The numerical solution is verified with experimental data.The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall.In contrast to cases without a seawall,the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall.Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater.We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.     

Wave Height Transformation and Set-up Between a A Submerged Permeable Breakwater and A Seawall

In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.     

Linear and nonlinear wave diffraction using the nonlinear time dependent mild slope equations

Nonlinear wave diffraction is studied using the nonlinear time-dependent mild slope equation. The equations are solved using a combined Newton–Raphson and Crank–Nicolson finite difference scheme. The model results are verified for propagation of highly nonlinear waves over uniform depth and wave diffraction due to semi-finite breakwater and breakwater gap with different widths. Comparison between the numerical and experimental results indicates that the model is capable of simulating nonlinear wave diffraction. The model is applied to study the effect of the wave nonlinearity on the diffraction coefficient for a semi-infinite breakwater and a breakwater gap.     

斜向和多向不规则波在斜坡堤上的平均越浪量的试验研究

通过三维物理模型试验研究了在斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波在非破碎条件下的平均越浪量与波浪参数及堤参数的关系.着重考察了波浪以小角度(0°~30°)斜向入射时平均越浪量的变化情况,肯定了多向波的越浪量在这一范围内有所谓“小角度斜向增加”的现象,但否定了单向波也具有这一现象.在考察波浪的方向分布影响时发现波浪斜向入射时多向波的越浪量往往要比单向波的大.比较了已有的相关研究成果,给出了适用于混凝土护面和扭工字块体护面斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波的平均越浪量的估算公式.     

Wave diffraction through submerged flexible breakwaters

This paper presents an analytical, computationally efficient method for the wave reflection and dynamic displacement of a submerged flexible breakwater. The solution of the two-dimensional linearized hydrodynamic problem introduced is based on the eigenfunction expansion technique. The breakwater is assumed to be thin, impermeable, flexible, moored to the bed through tethers and kept in tension by means of a floating buoy at its tip. The beam structure is considered to be either clamped or hinged at the sea bed, situated in an arbitrary water depth and subjected to normal linear waves. Numerical examples presented by this method are compared with those obtained by the Boundary Integral Equation Method, presented by Williams et al. Comparisons show an excellent agreement over a wide range of parameters for the wave reflection and the dynamic displacement. Numerical results are presented, mainly to show the effect of the breakwater rigidity and the method of fixation on the wave reflection and the structural displacement over a wide range of wave frequencies.     

Intercomparison of wave-driven current models

Seven numerical models which simulate waves and currents in the surf-zone are tested for the case of a reduced-scale detached breakwater subjected to the action of regular waves with normal incidence. The computed wave heights, water levels and velocities are compared with measurements collected in an experimental wave basin. The wave height decay in the surf-zone is predicted reasonably well. Set-up and currents appear to be less well predicted. This intercomparison exercise shows that radiation stresses are systematically overestimated by formulations used in the models, mean bottom shear stresses are not always co-linear with the mean bottom velocity vector in shallow water, and turbulence modelling in the surf-zone requires a sophisticated     

A numerical model of beach morphological evolution due to waves and currents in the vicinity of coastal structures

A numerical model was developed of beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. The model includes five sub-models for random wave transformation, surface roller development, nearshore wave-induced currents, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. The model was validated using high-quality data sets obtained during experiments with a T-head groin and a detached breakwater in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility at the Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory in Vicksburg, Miss, USA. The simulations showed that the model reproduced well the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and beach morphological evolution in the vicinity of coastal structures. Both salient and tombolo formation behind a T-head groin and a detached breakwater were simulated with good agreement compared to the measurements.     

Experiments on the reflection coefficients of a detached breakwater in a directional wave field

Results of estimating the directional wave fields in front of a detached breakwater are presented here in this paper. Two of non-phase-locked methods, i.e., the Maximum Likelihood Method (MLM) and the Extended Maximum Entropy Principle Method (EMEP), were adopted for the purpose. In general, the latter outperforms the former. It is shown that the reflection coefficients decrease with increasing distances away from the detached breakwater, and within four wavelengths from the detached breakwater, the rate of the decrease is faster for wave fields having larger directional spreads. When the measuring distance is more than four wavelengths away from the detached breakwaters, the reflection coefficients tend to reach to a constant value. It is shown that, with the use of the non-phase-locked EMEP method, the effective region can be extended, as compared with the results of Huntley and Davidson [J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng. 124 (1998) 312].     

Analytical Research on Wave Diffraction on Arc-Shaped Bottom-Mounted Perforated Breakwaters

An analytical method is developed to study wave diffraction on arc-shaped and bottom-mounted perforated breakwaters.The breakwater is assumed to be rigid,thin,vertical,immovable and located in water of constant depth.The fluid domain is divided into two regions by imaginary interface.The velocity potential in each region is expanded by eigenfunctions.By satisfying the continuity of pressure and normal velocity across the imaginary fluid interface,a set of linear algebraic equations can be obtained to determine the unknown coefficients of eigenfunctions.Numerical results,in the form of contour maps of the relative wave amplitude around the breakwater,are presented for a range of wave and breakwater parameters.Results show that the wave diffraction on the arc-shaped and bottom-mounted perforated breakwater is related to the incident wavelength and the porosity of the breakwater.The porosity of the perforated breakwater may have great effect on the diffracted field.     

多消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤反射特性的迭代解析研究

基于势流理论,对多消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤的反射特性进行解析研究。研究中采用开孔墙处的二次压力损失边界条件,可以直接考虑波高对于开孔墙处能量损失的影响。利用匹配特征函数展开法和迭代方法得到当前问题的解析解。收敛性验证表明,迭代计算和级数解均具有良好的收敛性。该解析解的计算结果与分区边界元的数值计算结果一致,并且与已有的试验结果符合良好。通过算例分析,研究开孔沉箱防波堤反射系数的主要影响因素。结果表明：与单消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤相比,多消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤可以在更宽的波浪频率范围内保持低反射;增大开孔墙的开孔率,有利于降低多消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤的反射系数;当开孔墙的开孔率沿着入射波方向依次递减时,多消浪室开孔沉箱防波堤的反射系数较小。本文所建立的解析模型简单可靠,可用于工程初步设计中分析开孔沉箱防波堤的水动力性能。     

Wave reflection and transmission at permeable breakwaters of arbitrary cross-section

A theory is formulated to predict wave reflection and transmission at an infinite rubble-mound breakwater. The breakwater may be a multilayered structure with arbitrary cross-section. It is assumed that the incident wave is normal to the structure and the wave may be described by linear theory. A hybrid method has been applied to solve the boundary value problem.Comparison between experimental and theoretical results shows reasonable agreement.     

Full wave solution for hydrodynamic behaviors of pile breakwater

Rayleigh expansion is used to study the water-wave interaction with a row of pile breakwater in finite water depth. Evanescent waves, the wave energy dissipated on the fluid resistance and the thickness of the breakwater are totally included in the model. The formulae of wave reflection and transmission coefficients are obtained. The accuracy of the present model is verified by a comparison with existing results. It is found that the predicted wave reflection and transmission coefficients for the zero order are all highly consistent with the experimental data (Hagiwara, 1984; Isaacson et al., 1998) and plane wave solutions (Zhu, 2011). The losses of the wave energy for the fluid passing through slits play an important role, which removes the phenomena of enhanced wave transmission.     

Boundary element modeling of multidirectional random waves in a harbor with partially reflecting boundaries

A numerical model is presented for the prediction of the wave field due to the diffraction of directional random waves in a harbor of arbitrary shape with partially reflecting boundaries. The water depth is assumed uniform and the method is based upon the superposition of diffraction solutions for monochromatic waves obtained by a two-dimensional boundary integral equation approach. The incident wave conditions are specified using a discrete form of the Mitsuyasu directional spectrum. The present numerical model has been validated through comparisons with previous experimental data and theoretical results for both regular and random wave diffraction by offshore breakwaters and in harbors. Good agreement was obtained in all cases. Based on these comparisons it is concluded that the present numerical model is an accurate and efficient tool to predict the wave field inside a harbor or around a breakwater in many practical applications.