渤海、黄海沿岸主要港湾假潮的基本特征

基于港湾假潮振动的基本原理，从渤海、黄海沿岸20个验潮站多年水位自记曲线资料获取假潮参数，并对其做了统计分析，给出了假潮的统计特征，还讨论了假潮形成的初步原因。结果表明，该海域主要港湾假潮出现具有明显的局地性、季节性和年际变化；夏季是大振幅假潮（振幅^1)≥80cm）的多发期，冬季基本上不出现；龙口港湾的大振幅假潮最为突出，最大振幅可达293cm；气压和风速、风向突变的良好配合，是发生大振幅假潮的主要原因。     

Currents and turbulent diffusion in the bottom boundary layer of the Barents Sea

The numerical analysis of the stationary field of current velocity on the upper boundary of the bottom boundary layer in the Barents Sea is performed on the basis of a simplified model taking into account the fields of wind velocity and density of water for the principal periods of the seasonal cycle and the bottom topography. The analysis is based on the climatic BarKode database and the data on the wind velocity over the Barents Sea for the last 50 yr. The numerical results demonstrate that the field of bottom currents is fairly nonuniform and the current velocities vary from several fractions of 1 cm/sec to 5 cm/sec in the zones with noticeable slopes of the bottom. The estimates of the thickness of the bottom boundary layer are obtained for the constant coefficient of bottom friction C _f = 0.04. In the major part of the water area of the Barents Sea, the thickness of the bottom boundary layer is close to 1 m. In the regions with significant slopes of the bottom, it increases to 2–2.5 m and, in the two zones of intensification of the bottom currents, becomes as large as 5 m. The maximum estimate of the coefficient of turbulent viscosity is close to 5 cm²/sec. The mean value of the coefficient of vertical density diffusion K _S is equal to 2.34 cm²/sec and its standard deviation is equal to 1.52 cm²/sec. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 4, pp. 31–49, September–October, 2007.     

Modelling of the barotropic processes in the Bohai Sea

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简单海-气边界层模式中的埃克曼流动Ⅱ——有限深海的情形

本文是文献[3]研究工作的继续。利用文献[3]中所用的海-气边界层模式,重点考虑海深和底坡的影响,将该文的研究成果直接推广到有限深海的情形,和无限深海情形下所获得的相应结果进行比较,简洁地阐明两者的异同,并就海底摩擦以及浅海风暴潮的估值和导致风暴潮的发生和发展的大气强迫力作一简短讨论。     

Simulation of the extreme waves generated by typhoon Bolaven (1215) in the East China Sea and Yellow Sea

Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven (1215) (TYB) in the East China Sea (ECS) and Yellow Sea (YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon. Winds and directional wave measurements were made using a range of in-situ instruments mounted on an ocean tower and buoys. In order to understand how such high waves with long duration occurred, analyses have been made through measurement and numerical simulations. TYB winds were generated using the TC96 typhoon wind model with the best track data calibrated with the measurements. And then the wind fields were blended with the reanalyzed synoptic-scale wind fields for a wave model. Wave fields were simulated using WAM4.5 with adjustment of C_d for gust of winds and bottom friction for the study area. Thus the accuracy of simulations is considerably enhanced, and the computed results are also in better agreement with measured data than before. It is found that the extremely high waves evolved as a result of the superposition of distant large swells and high wind seas generated by strong winds from the front/right quadrant of the typhoon track. As the typhoon moved at a speed a little slower than the dominant wave group velocity in a consistent direction for two days, the wave growth was significantly enhanced by strong wind input in an extended fetch and non-linear interaction.     

Sensitivity studies with the three-dimensional multi-level model for tidal motion

A three-dimensional multi-level hydrodynamic model has recently been developed and applied to tidal motion in Singapore’s coastal waters. This paper describes a series of numerical experiments to evaluate the sensitivity of the tidal currents and elevations to model parameters. The results show that the predicted tidal elevations are insensitive to three model parameters: horizontal eddy viscosity coefficient (Smagorinsky constant, c_h), bottom friction coefficient (c_b) and internal friction coefficient (c_v), whereas the effects of these parameters are quite different for tidal current velocities. The velocities are slightly reduced with an increase in c_h and c_b. The bottom friction effects on velocity profiles increase with water depth. The effect of c_v might be significant for the tidal velocities at all levels. The velocities at upper layers of the water column decrease with the increase in c_v, whereas the velocities at the bottom layer show the reverse trend. The effects of three model parameters on the magnitude and phase of the simulated currents are in the order (from strong to weak) of c_v, c_b and c_h.     

An investigation of wind-driven topographically controlled motions in the Northern Adriatic

The present paper describes a three-dimensional hydrodynamical numerical model of the Northern Adriatic. The model is based on the approach of N.S. Heaps in which the integral transformations are used to reproduce the vertical distribution of velocity. The model is applied to reproduce the wind-induced motion in the Northern Adriatic during winter. Hydrographic, sea level and current data collected during the MEDALPEX are used to verify the model predictions. Analysis of the empirical data suggests that the bura wind induces the most pronounced, although transient, contribution to the Northern Adriatic current field. The model predictions clearly show the controlling influence of a shallower bottom along the Italian coast. The model to data comparison suggests for the eddy viscosity coefficient value an order of magnitude lower than expected from literature data. The quadratic law for bottom friction and wind-stress curl have been identified as possible improvements of the model.     

Patterns of summer vertical and horizontal currents in coastal waters of the northern Gulf of Aqaba, Red Sea

This study was focused on analysis of the horizontal and vertical current components with correspondence to tide variation, heat flux, seiches and relative backscatter intensity in coastal waters of the northern Gulf of Aqaba during the summers of 2001–2004. Spectrum analysis has shown eight distinguishable peaks of the tide measurements. In addition to semidiurnal and diurnal barotropic tides, signal periods of 8.13, 5.89–6.32 and 4.06 h were related to shallow water compound and overtides of the principal solar and lunar constituent and to seiches (second and third mode) generated in the Red Sea, whereas seiches of the first mode might enhance the semidiurnal tide signal. The shortest periods of 1.02–1.05, 0.50 and 0.36 h were related to seiches (first, second and third mode, respectively) generated in the Gulf of Aqaba. The spectrum analysis and cross-correlation tests of the horizontal and vertical current components and relative backscatter intensity suggested that the vertical motion at the diurnal period was either due to migration of zooplankton or to water convection. Both of which were of the same order as vertical motion induced by horizontal motions of water particles projected parallel on the bottom gradient line. On the other hand, semidiurnal and diurnal periods detected in the vertical currents were caused by the strong signal in the cross-shore current component, first mode seiches generated from the Red Sea and tide. This could be considered as an indicator of the dominant force influencing the currents, such as winds, thermocline depth, seiches and tidal forcing. A permanent convection during summer is likely to occur in the shallow coastal waters due to relatively high inclined bottom, high evaporation and blowing of dry air, as well as the observed dominance of the downward vertical currents in coastal waters.     

Thermohydrodynamics of the ocean generation of seiches by moving baric fronts in bounded basins

We consider a plane problem of barotropic seiches generated by a front of atmospheric pressure moving over a bounded basin. A system of nonlinear equations of long waves is solved by the finite-difference method with regard for the bottom friction and Earth's rotation. The numerical analyses are performed for two basins with distributions of depths typical of the Black Sea. It is shown that the passage of a baric front over the basin leads to the generation of lower seiches. The oscillations of level and the corresponding currents are especially intense in the shallow-water zones of the basins. The seiches become more intense as the velocity of transfer of the atmospheric front increases and the width of the front decreases. Earth's rotation leads to the generation of longshore currents and promotes the process of weakening of residual oscillations of the fluid following the passage of the front. The influence of nonlinearity on seiches is small for the analyzed basins. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 2, pp. 3–18, March–April, 2008.     

Thermohydrodynamics of the ocean decay of nonlinear oscillations in a bounded basin of variable depth

We study the time decay of surges of a liquid in a round shallow-water basin of variable depth. The dependence of the logarithmic decrement of oscillations on the bottom topography and wind velocity is analyzed. The role of convective acceleration and bottom friction in the formation of both the level of vertical displacement of the surface of the basin and the velocity field of horizontal wave currents is estimated. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 2, pp. 3–11, March–April, 2006.     

Sediment distribution and transport across the continental shelf and slope under idealized wind forcing

Resuspension, transport, and deposition of sediments over the continental shelf and slope are complex processes and there is still a need to understand the underlying spatial and temporal dynamical scales. As a step towards this goal, a two-dimensional slice model (zero gradients in the alongshore direction) based on the primitive flow equations and a range of sediment classes has been developed. The circulation is forced from rest by upwelling or downwelling winds, which are spatially uniform. Results are presented for a range of wind speeds and sediment settling speeds. Upwelling flows carry fine sediments (low settling speeds) far offshore within the surface Ekman layer, and significant deposition eventually occurs beyond the shelf break. However, coarser sediments quickly settle out of the deeper onshore component of the circulation, which can lead to accumulation of bottom sediments within the coastal zone. Downwelling flows are more effective at transporting coarse sediments off the shelf. However, strong vertical mixing at the shelf break ensures that some material is also carried into the surface Ekman layer and returned onshore. The concentrations and settling fluxes of coarse sediments decrease offshore and increase with depth under both upwelling and downwelling conditions, consistent with trends observed in sediment trap data. However, finer sediments decrease with depth (upwelling) or reach a maximum around the depth of the shelf break (downwelling). It is shown that under uniform wind conditions, suspended sediment concentrations and settling fluxes decay offshore over a length scale of order τ_s/ρf|w_s|, where τ_s is the wind stress, ρ the water density, f the Coriolis parameter, and w_s is the sediment settling velocity. This scaling applies to both upwelling and downwelling conditions, provided offshore transport is dominated by wind-driven advection, rather than horizontal diffusion.     

The decomposition and simulation of the longitudinal circulation in a coastal lagoon

Current measurements during a 32-day study period in late spring, 1977, are used to quantify the magnitude and relative importance of tidal and wind-driven motion in the interior of the Indian River lagoon, on the Atlantic coast of Florida. Harmonic analysis of the total longitudinal flow along the axis of the lagoon isolates the tidal component of the current; non-tidal flow is revealed by subtracting the tidal current from the total current, and making corrections for non-linear relationships between the current and both surface wind stress and bottom friction. A one-layer, one-dimensional model is developed to simulate wind drift. A quadratic bottom friction term with a drag coefficient of 15 × 10^?3 gives results which compare most favourably with observations. Results indicate that tidal forcing explains approximately 45% of the total variance at the study site, 25 km from the nearest inlet. Local wind forcing accounts for 44% of the non-tidal flow. The remainder of the variance is attributed to freshwater outflow through the lagoon and non-local forcing.     

On numerical modelling of currents over the north-west shelf of the Black Sea

Water circulation in the north-west part of the Black Sea during the summer period is calculated by means of a complete non-linear thermohydrodynamic model. We have also studied the contribution of wind forcing, the thermohaline regime, the coastline configuration, and the bottom topography to the generation and transformation of a flow field. It has been shown that the thermohaline regime and wind forcing account for 30 and 70% of the total circulation, respectively. Variation in the nature of circulation at weak winds is due to thermohaline factors. Vertical motion plays a crucial role in theT, S- andH ₂ S-field formation.Translated by V. Puchkin.     

A numerical model investigation of the residual circulation in Hauraki Gulf,New Zealand

The homogeneous residual circulation in Hauraki Gulf arising from the tides, steady winds, and oceanic inflows is considered by use of a depth‐averaged 2‐dimensional numerical model. Vertical current structure of the wind‐driven circulation is derived by using the computed wind‐induced sea surface slopes, the wind stress, and a prescribed vertical eddy viscosity. Tidal residual circulation is weak, less than 0.01 ms^‐1 over most of the Gulf. The response of the Gulf to wind‐forcing indicates a preference for north‐west/south‐east directed winds, the flow through the Gulf being more than 3 times as strong as for winds from other directions. Surface currents are mainly in the wind direction, but subsurface currents reveal closed circulation cells in near‐coastal areas. Simple oceanic inflows give rise to water movements which penetrate to the inner part of the Gulf.     

Influence of Bottom Stress on the Two-layer Flow Induced by Gravity Currents in Estuaries

Baroclinic circulation in highly stratified and partially stratified estuaries is characterised by a two-layer flow: a bottom salt- water inflow and a surface brackish-water outflow. Tidal period variation of the thicknesses of a two-layer flow is observed to be associated with mixing, bottom stress and hydraulic characteristics of superposed tidal and gravity currents. Here, both analytical two-layer hydraulic equations with weak friction and a numerical model including a turbulence closure were utilised to understand the mechanism of the layer tendency within a two-layer flow under different barotropic flow conditions. It has been found that in the weak bottom friction case, a gravity current has two critical solutions at the layer thickness equal to 0·5Hand 0·292H. The layer thickness towards a particular critical solution is dependent on the sign of the bottom stress, i.e. when the bottom stress is opposite (favor) to the bottom gravity current, its layer thickness converges to 0·5H(0·292H). In the case of strong bottom stress and mixing opposing the gravity current, the solutions of the gravity current layer thickness at 0·5Hand 0·292Hwill not be valid. Both mixing and vorticity produced by bottom stress erode the halocline, and produce a high velocity core in the mid-depth, which leads to the thickness of a bottom gravity current greater than 0·5H. These internal hydraulic tendency and mixing processes, varying with time-dependent barotropic tidal current forcing, determine the tidal period variation of the gravity current structure.     

Response of water column to strong wind forcing,southern Brazilian inner shelf: Implications for sand ridge formation

The result of two sequential oceanographic stations of 36 hours each in the area of sand ridges are presented. One station was located in the trough between two sand ridges and the other was at the crest of a sand ridge. At these stations salinity and temperature of the sea water, currents, winds, waves, and barometric pressure were measured each hour.During the observations, a cold front passed; this generated westerly winds that grew in speed from 24 to 52 km h^?1. The average height of the wind generated waves grew from 1.0 to 1.5 m and their periods increased from 7 to 10 s, and the speed of the northeast directed surface current increased from 40 to 82 cm s^?1. A bottom current (also directed northeast) increased from 26 to 34 cm s^?1.After the cold front had passed, the wind backed to the southeast and decreased in speed from 26 to zero km h^?1. The surface current in a northwest direction decreased from 29 to 8 cm s^?1. A bottom current (also directed northwest) decreased from 22 to 3 cm s^?1. Later, swells from the southeast appeared and their periods increased from 5 to 9 s and their heights grew from 1.0 to 1.5 m. After 3 hours, the speeds of the surface and bottom currents increased from 8 to 72 cm s^?1 and 3 to 62 cm s^?1 respectively.This cold front induced strong winds and storm-wave currents able to erode sediments (assuming a threshold velocity of 20 cm s^?1) and transport them in a north-northeast direction.The origin and the maintenance of these sand ridges is thought to be a function of sediments eroded from troughs and piled up at ridge crests during a storm condition. Some eroded sediments are transported north of Verga lighthouse where they are deposited on a smooth bottom.     

中国东南沿海区域台风数值模拟与危险性分析

通过网格定点法对我国东南沿海区域性台风危险性进行了分析。利用对各网格点有影响的历史台风数据,建立了各网格点的台风关键参数的最优概率模型。利用Monte-Carlo方法产生每个网格点1000年间的虚拟台风事件。采用YanMeng(YM)风场模型模拟了100个历史台风的最大风速,通过使这些最大风速与观测的最大风速误差和最小,建立了一组新的计算最大风半径Rmax和Holland气压参数B的公式,结果表明新的台风参数计算方案效果良好。利用新的参数计算方案、YM风场模型、特定地点的台风衰减模型以及合适的极值分布模型,预测了各个网格点不同重现期的极值风速,进而绘制了台风多发区域的设计风速图。最后研究了不同B模型、Rmax模型和极值分布模型对预测的极值风速的影响。可以为结构抗风设计和台风防灾减灾提供新的参考。     

Modeling the tide and wind-induced circulation in Buzzards Bay

Hydrodynamic model application to Buzzards Bay is performed using a three-dimensional Boundary-fitted Hydrodynamic model in this study. The model is forced with observed tidal harmonic constants along the open boundaries and winds on the surface. The main focus of the present study is to model the detailed wind and tide-induced circulation in Buzzards Bay. The observed surface elevations and currents given in [Butman, B., Signell, R., Shoukimas, P., Beardsley, R.C., 1988. Current Observations in Buzzards Bay, 1982–1986. Open File Report 88-5. United States Geological Survey] and the tide and current harmonics given in [Signell, R.P., 1987. Tide- and Wind-forced Currents in Buzzards Bay, Massachusetts. Technical Report WH-87-15. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Massachusetts] are used to validate the model predictions. The calibrated model is then used to study the relative contributions of tidal and wind forcing on the instantaneous and residual circulation in Buzzards Bay. The amplitudes and phases of the principal tidal constituents at 10 tidal stations in Buzzards Bay obtained from a harmonic analysis of a 60-day simulation compare well with the observed data. The predicted amplitude and phase of the M₂ tidal constituent of surface elevations at these stations are, respectively, within 4 cm and 5° of the observed data. The errors in the model-predicted M₂ harmonic principal current speeds are less than 6 cm/s, and the principal current directions and phases are within 14° of the observations. The observed surface elevations and currents given in [Butman, B., Signell, R., Shoukimas, P., Beardsley, R.C., 1988. Current Observations in Buzzards Bay, 1982–1986. Open File Report 88-5. United States Geological Survey] are used to validate the model-predicted low-frequency surface elevations and currents. The model predictions in low-frequency surface elevations at Woods Hole closely follow the trends seen in the observations with a correlation coefficient of 0.735, but fail to capture some of the peak surges seen in the observations. The model-predicted low-frequency currents in the east–west direction at stations in Buzzards Bay compare well with the observations with the correlation coefficient exceeding 0.811 and the model capturing the trends seen in the observations, for the most part. However, the model-predicted north–south velocities does not compare well with the observations. The model-predictions agree with the observations that the tidal currents in Vineyard Sound lagged the currents in Buzzards Bay by more than 3 h. The interaction of wind stress with large bathymetric gradients was shown to cause many vortices in Buzzards Bay, as seen from the model predictions. Model simulations show that the winds play a more dominant role than the tides in the generation of the barotropic residual currents in Buzzards Bay, while the model-predicted tide-induced residual current was seen to be small.     

东海风应力旋度驱动的21天周期的海底压力变化及其传播

在2015年6月至2017年6月期间,跨越庆良间水道的由2台加载压力传感器的倒置式回声仪（PIES）和5台加载压力传感器和海流计的倒置式回声仪（CPIES）组成的观测断面获得了近2年的海底压力时间序列。该时间序列中存在着显著的21天周期的振荡（P_bot21）,该信号在2016年7月至10月期间尤为强烈。P_bot21与东海陆架上的风应力旋度存在较显著的3天延迟相关,其相关系数达到0.65。本文采用正压海洋模式解释了这一信号的产生、传播以及耗散过程,模式结果显示东海陆架上的风应力旋度驱动产生P_bot21并向琉球岛链传播,而深海上的风应力旋度不能驱动产生这一信号。在陆架上,P_bot21伴随21天周期的风应力旋度由海岸向东南方向传播,但由于摩擦作用,信号在离开风场后几天内即耗散。断面能否观测到P_bot21与陆架上21天周期风应力旋度场的分布相关,长江口东南方向风应力旋度驱动的P_bot21能被观测到,而长江口东北方向产生的P_bot21不能被观测到。