Crest-height distribution of nonlinear random waves

The wave crest is an important factor for the design of both fixed and floating marine structures. Wave crest height is a dominant parameter in assessing the likelihood of wave-in-deck impact and resultant severe damage. Many empirical and theoretical distribution functions for wave crest heights have been proposed, but there is a lack of agreement between them. It is of significance to develop a better new nonlinear wave crest height distribution model. The progress in the research of wave crest heights is reviewed in this paper. Based on Stokes’ wave theory, an approximate nonlinear wave crest-height distribution formula with simple parameters is derived. Two sets of measured data are presented and compared with various theoretical distributions of wave crests obtained from nonlinear wave models and analysis of the comparison is given in detail. The new crest-height distribution model agrees well with observations. Also, the new theoretical distribution is more accurate than the other methods cited in this paper and has a greater range of applications.     

Wave height statistical characteristic analysis

When exploring the temporal and spatial change law of ocean environment, the most common method used is using smaller-scale observed data to derive the change law for a larger-scale system. For instance, using 30-year observation data to derive 100-year return period design wave height. Therefore,the study of inherent self-similarity in ocean hydrological elements becomes increasingly important to the study of multi-year return period design wave height derivation. In this paper, we introduced multifractal to analyze the statistical characteristics of wave height series data observed from oceanic hydrological station.An improvement is made to address the existing problems of the multifractal detrended fluctuation analysis(MF-DFA) method, where trend function showed a discontinuity between intervals. The improved MFDFA method is based on signal mode decomposition, replacing piecewise polynomial fitting used in the original method. We applied the proposed method to the wave height data collected at Chaolian Island,Shandong, China, from 1963 to 1989 and was able to conclude the wave height sequence presented weak multi-fractality. This result provided strong support to the past research on the derivation of multi-year return period design wave height with observed data. Moreover, the new method proposed in this paper also provides a new perspective to explore the intrinsic characteristic of data.     

约束条件对滑坡涌浪特征影响的室内试验研究

水库滑坡约束条件影响其运动过程的几何形态,是滑坡涌浪预测的重要参数之一。为了探究约束条件对滑坡涌浪特征(波高、波幅与周期)的影响,采用正交试验设计法开展了54组滑坡涌浪室内模型试验,并基于统计学理论对约束散体和半约束散体的涌浪特征进行了分析。结果表明：涌浪波周期基本不受滑体约束条件的影响;而半约束散体模型的波高和波幅小于约束散体的波高和波幅,半约束散体的初始涌浪波高约为约束散体的0.95倍,半约束散体模型的最大波峰波幅约为约束散体模型的0.9倍。因此,在开展滑坡涌浪快速预测时,虽然滑体入水形态与破坏前形态差异巨大,但基于滑坡初始几何形态参数对其初始涌浪波高和最大涌浪波幅的预测结果是偏安全的。研究结论可以为更准确地预测水库滑坡涌浪提供理论依据。     

Elimination of the impact of vessels on ocean wave height inversion with X-band wave monitoring radar

Directional wave spectra and integrated wave parameters can be derived from X-band radar sea surface images.A vessel on the sea surface has a significant influence on wave parameter inversions that can be seen as intensive backscatter speckles in X-band wave monitoring radar sea surface images.A novel algorithm to eliminate the interference of vessels in ocean wave height inversions from X-band wave monitoring radar is proposed.This algorithm is based on the characteristics of the interference.The principal components(PCs) of a sea surface image sequence are extracted using empirical orthogonal function(EOF)analysis.The standard deviation of the PCs is then used to identify vessel interference within the image sequence.To mitigate the interference,a suppression method based on a frequency domain geometric model is applied.The algorithm framework has been applied to OSMAR-X,a wave monitoring system developed by Wuhan University,based on nautical X-band radar.Several sea surface images captured on vessels by OSMAR-X are processed using the method proposed in this paper.Inversion schemes are validated by comparisons with data from in situ wave buoys.The root-mean-square error between the significant wave heights(SWH) retrieved from original interference radar images and those measured by the buoy is reduced by 0.25 m.The determinations of surface gravity wave parameters,in particular SWH,confirm the applicability of the proposed method.     

A new model to estimate significant wave heights with ERS-1/2 scatterometer data

A new model is proposed to estimate the significant wave heights with ERS-1/2 scatterometer data. The results show that the relationship between wave parameters and radar backscattering cross section is similar to that between wind and the radar backscattering cross section. Therefore, the relationship between significant wave height and the radar backscattering cross section is established with a neural network algorithm, which is, if the average wave period is ≤7s, the root mean square of significant wave...     

Experimental Investigation of Wave Load and Run-up on the Composite Bucket Foundation Influenced by Regular Waves

In the design of wind turbine foundations for offshore wind farms, the wave load and run-up slamming on the supporting structure are the quantities that need to be considered. Because of a special arc transition, the interaction between the wave field and the composite bucket foundation(CBF) becomes complicated. In this study, the hydrodynamic characteristics, including wave pressure, load, upwelling, and run-up, around the arc transition of a CBF influenced by regular waves are investigated through physical tests at Shandong Provincial Key Laboratory of Ocean Engineering, Ocean University of China. The distributions of the wave pressures and upwelling ratios around the CBF are described, and the relationship between the wave load and the wave parameters is discussed. New formulae based on the velocity stagnation head theory with linear wave theory and the second-order Stokes wave theory for wave kinematics are proposed to estimate the wave run-up. Moreover, the multiple regression method with nonlinear technology is employed to deduce an empirical formula for predicting run-up heights. Results show that the non-dimensional wave load increases with the increase in the values of the wave scattering parameter and relative wave height. The wave upwelling height is high in front of the CBF and has the lowest value at an angle of 135? with the incoming wave direction. The performance of the new formulae proposed in this study is compared using statistical indices to demonstrate that a good fit is obtained by the multiple regression method and the analytical model based on the velocity stagnation head theory is underdeveloped.     

Dynamic response analysis of a floating mooring system

An innovative floating mooring system with two or more independent floating mooring platforms in the middle and one rigid platform on each side is proposed for improving efficiency and safety in shallow water. For this new system, most of collision energy is absorbed through the displacement of floating platforms. In order to illustrate the validity of the system, a series of model tests were conducted at a scale of 1:40. The coupled motion characteristics of the floating mooring platforms were discussed under regular and irregular waves, and the influences of wave direction and other characteristics on dynamic response of the system were analyzed. The results show that the mooring system is safest at 0° of wave incident angle, whereas the most dangerous mooring state occurs at 90° of wave incident angle. Motion responses increase with the increase of wave height, but are not linearly related to changes in wave height.     

两种海浪模式对一次台风浪过程的模拟分析

以CCMP（Cross—Calibrated,Multi—Platfoml）风场为驱动场,分别驱动目前国际先进的第3代海浪模式ww3（WAVEWATCH—III）、SWAN（Simulating WAves Nearshore）,对2010年9月发生在东中国海的台风“圆规”所致的台风浪进行数值模拟,就台风浪的特征进行分析,并对比分析两个海浪模式的模拟效果。结果表明：1）以CCMP风场分别驱动WW3、SWAN海浪模式,可以较好地模拟发生在东中国海的台风浪,风向与波向保持了大体一致,波高与风速的分布特征保持了很好的一致性;2）综合相关系数、偏差、均方根误差、平均绝对误差来看,两个模式模拟的有效波高（SWH—Significant Wdve Height）都具有较高精度,SWAN模拟的SWH略低于观测值,WW3模拟的SWH与观测值更为接近;3）台风浪可给琉球群岛海域带来5m左右的大浪,台风浪进入东海后,波高、风速都有一定程度的增加,当台风沿西北路径穿越朝鲜半岛时,受到半岛地形的巨大影响,风速和波高都明显降低。     

Calculation of significant wave height using the linear mean square estimation method

Significant wave height is an important criterion in designing coastal and offshore structures. Based on the orthogonality principle, the linear mean square estimation method is applied to calculate significant wave height in this paper. Twenty-eight-year time series of wave data collected from three ocean buoys near San Francisco along the California coast are analyzed. It is proved theoretically that the computation error will be reduced by using as many measured data as possible for the calculation of significant wave height. Measured significant wave height at one buoy location is compared with the calculated value based on the data from two other adjacent buoys. The results indicate that the linear mean square estimation method can be well applied to the calculation and prediction of significant wave height in coastal regions.     

A Spatiotemporal Interactive Processing Bias Correction Method for Operational Ocean Wave Forecasts

Numerical models and correct predictions are important for marine forecasting,but the forecasting results are often unable to satisfy the requirements of operational wave forecasting.Because bias between the predictions of numerical models and the actual sea state has been observed,predictions can only be released after correction by forecasters.This paper proposes a spati-otemporal interactive processing bias correction method to correct numerical prediction fields applied to the production and release of operational ocean wave forecasting products.The proposed method combines the advantages of numerical models and Forecast Discussion;specifically,it integrates subjective and objective information to achieve interactive spatiotemporal correc-tions for numerical prediction.The method corrects the single-time numerical prediction field in space by spatial interpolation and sub-zone numerical analyses using numerical model grid data in combination with real-time observations and the artificial judg-ment of forecasters to achieve numerical prediction accuracy.The difference between the original numerical prediction field and the spatial correction field is interpolated to an adjacent time series by successive correction analysis,thereby achieving highly efficient correction for multi-time forecasting fields.In this paper,the significant wave height forecasts from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts are used as background field for forecasting correction and analysis.Results indicate that the proposed method has good application potential for the bias correction of numerical predictions under different sea states.The method takes into account spatial correlations for the numerical prediction field and the time series development of the numerical model to correct numerical predictions efficiently.     

A preliminary study on the intensity of cold wave storm surges of Laizhou Bay

Dike failure and marine losses are quite prominent in Laizhou Bay during the period of cold wave storm surges because of its open coastline to the north and flat topography. In order to evaluate the intensity of cold wave storm surge, the hindcast of marine elements induced by cold waves in Laizhou Bay from 1985 to 2004 is conducted using a cold wave storm surge–wave coupled model and the joint return period of extreme water level, concomitant wave height, and concomitant wind speed are calculated. A new criterion of cold wave storm surge intensity based on such studies is developed. Considering the frequency of cold wave, this paper introduces a Poisson trivariate compound reconstruction model to calculate the joint return period, which is closer to the reality. By using the newly defined cold wave storm surge intensity, the ‘cold wave grade' in meteorology can better describe the severity of cold wave storm surges and the warning level is well corresponding to different intensities of cold wave storm surges. Therefore, it provides a proper guidance to marine hydrological analysis, disaster prevention and marine structure design in Laizhou Bay.     

Wave Height Estimation from SAR Imagery

This paper presents a method developed for estimating wave height from synthetic aperture radar (SAR) imagery without prior assumption of noise distribution. It is based on two-dimenslonal ocean wave spectra retrieved from fully calibrated SAR images. Wen‘s spectrum was used as first-guess wave spectrum in the retrieval process. Comparison of the estimated wave height obtained by this method from two ERS-1 SAR subimages dated 23 July 1994 with in-situ measurements showed that the method works well.     

A background error covariance model of significant wave height employing Monte Carlo simulation

The quality of background error statistics is one of the key components for successful assimilation of observations in a numerical model.The background error covariance(BEC) of ocean waves is generally estimated under an assumption that it is stationary over a period of time and uniform over a domain.However,error statistics are in fact functions of the physical processes governing the meteorological situation and vary with the wave condition.In this paper,we simulated the BEC of the significant wave height(SWH) employing Monte Carlo methods.An interesting result is that the BEC varies consistently with the mean wave direction(MWD).In the model domain,the BEC of the SWH decreases significantly when the MWD changes abruptly.A new BEC model of the SWH based on the correlation between the BEC and MWD was then developed.A case study of regional data assimilation was performed,where the SWH observations of buoy 22001 were used to assess the SWH hindcast.The results show that the new BEC model benefits wave prediction and allows reasonable approximations of anisotropy and inhomogeneous errors.     

Wave uplift force on horizontal panels: a laboratory study

Accurate estimation of wave uplift force is essential to the designs of reliable coastal and marine structures. We presents a series of laboratory work here on the impact of regular waves on horizontal panels, from which an empirical formula to estimate accurately the wave uplift force on panels is established. The laboratory measurements show that the wave uplift force depends mainly on the incident wave height, the wave period, the wave length, the panel width, and the clearance between the subsurface of the panel and the still water level. Among these factors, the impact of the panel width on uplift forces is relatively complicated. Result shows that the relative panel width(i.e., the ratio of panel width to wave length) plays a more important role in estimating the wave uplift force. Based on our comprehensive laboratory measurements, we further developed an empirical formula to compute wave uplift force on horizontal panels through dimensionless analysis. Compared with other empirical formulas, this formula uses dimensionless variables of clear physical meanings, thus can describe the interaction between waves and the panels in a better way. In addition, the efficiency of the formula to estimate wave uplift force on horizontal panels is verified against existing works. Therefore, the findings in this study shall be useful for understanding the mechanism of wave uplift force on horizontal panels and numerical model validation.     

Analysis of Dynamic Characteristics of the 21st Century Maritime Silk Road

The 21st century Maritime Silk Road(MSR) proposed by China strongly promotes the maritime industry. In this paper, we use wind and ocean wave datasets from 1979 to 2014 to analyze the spatial and temporal distributions of the wind speed, significant wave height(SWH), mean wave direction(MWD), and mean wave period(MWP) in the MSR. The analysis results indicate that the Luzon Strait and Gulf of Aden have the most obvious seasonal variations and that the central Indian Ocean is relatively stable. We analyzed the distributions of the maximum wind speed and SWH in the MSR over this 36-year period. The results show that the distribution of the monthly average frequency for SWH exceeds 4 m(huge waves) and that of the corresponding wind speed exceeds 13.9 ms~(-1)(high wind speed). The occurrence frequencies of huge waves and high winds in regions east of the Gulf of Aden are as high as 56% and 80%, respectively. We also assessed the wave and wind energies in different seasons. Based on our analyses, we propose a risk factor(RF) for determining navigation safety levels, based on the wind speed and SWH. We determine the spatial and temporal RF distributions for different seasons and analyze the corresponding impact on four major sea routes. Finally, we determine the spatial distribution of tropical cyclones from 2000 to 2015 and analyze the corresponding impact on the four sea routes. The analysis of the dynamic characteristics of the MSR provides references for ship navigation as well as ocean engineering.     

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The Characteristics of Storm Wave Behavior and Its Effect on Cage Culture Using the ADCIRC+SWAN Model in Houshui Bay,China

The current storm wave hazard assessment tends to rely on a statistical method using wave models and fewer historical data which do not consider the effects of tidal and storm surge.In this paper,the wave-current coupled model ADCIRC+SWAN was used to hindcast storm events in the last 30 years.We simulated storm wave on the basis of a large set of historical storms in the North-West Pacific Basin between 1985 and 2015 in Houshui Bay using the wave-current coupled model ADCIRC+SWAN to obtain the storm wave level maps.The results were used for the statistical analysis of the maximum significant wave heights in Houshui Bay and the behavior of wave associated with storm track.Comparisons made between observations and simulated results during typhoon Rammasun(2014)indicate agreement.In addition,results demonstrate that significant wave height in Houshui Bay is dominated by the storm wind velocity and the storm track.Two groups of synthetic storm tracks were designed to further investigate the worst case of typhoon scenarios.The storm wave analysis method developed for the Houshui Bay is significant in assisting government's decision-making in rational planning of deep sea net-cage culture.The method can be applied to other bays in the Hainan Island as well.     

A COMBINED REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION-DISSIPATION MODEL OF WAVE PROPAGATION

A numerical model based on the mild-slope equation of water wave propagation over complicated bathymetry,taking into account the combined effects of refraction,diffraction and dissipation due to wavebreaking is presented.Wave breaking is simulated by modifying the wave height probability density func-tion and the wave energy dissipation mechanism is parameterized according to that of the hydraulic jumpformulation.Solutions of the wave height,phase function,and the wave direction at every grid point areobtained by finite difference approximation of the governing equations,using Gauss-Seidel Iterative Method(GSIM)row by row.Its computational convenience allows it to be applied to large coast regions tostudy the wave transformation problem.Several case studies have been made and the results compare verywell with the experiment data and other model solutions.The capability and utility of the model forreal coast areas are illustrated by application to a shallow bay of northeast Australia.