青岛大港港池海水稀释扩散规律的研究

本文报道了在青岛大港进行了稀释因子的现场模拟试验。通过试验,搞清了青岛港港池海水的稀释扩散规律以及风、流、浪。潮等诸因素对稀释因子的影响,为保护青岛港湾的环境提供了可靠的数据。     

渤海湾南港工业区港池航道回淤研究

天津南港工业区位于渤海湾典型的淤泥质海岸,其港区为环抱式有掩护的平面布局,规划建设10万吨级航道。为准确预测港池航道的泥沙回淤状况,采用双向嵌套网格建立波浪潮流共同作用下的泥沙运动数学模型,考虑波浪辐射应力作用,以及波浪引起的紊动和波浪增强海床底部切应力对悬沙输移的影响。模型选取现场实测大潮作为代表潮,以工程海域附近测波资料的能量加权平均结果作为代表波,对邻近的天津港15万吨级航道年均回淤进行了验证,确定数学模型中相关泥沙运动与底床冲淤的计算参数。在此基础上,数学模型预测了南港工业区规划的港池航道总的年均回淤量,与天津港主航道资料类比,计算的南港工业区港区10万吨级航道泥沙回淤分布与淤积总量是合理的。     

漳州港码头岸线规划潮流及泥沙问题研究

本文在实测资料的基础上，全面分析了漳州港海域的波浪要素，潮流动力，泥沙运移特性和水深演变等，计算了漳州港码头工程前后潮流分布场，并在此基础上预报了漳州港起步工程的３．５万吨级码头泊位、港池、航道的泥沙冲淤幅度。结果表明，漳州港海域的水深维护主要与上游纳潮面积大小有关，海域潮差大，潮流强，水深大，波浪小，海域泥沙主要来源于上游的九龙江，年输沙量为２７７万ｔ，海域年平均含沙量也不大，港池航道水深可由水流动力来维持、泊位和淤积很小，这些情况表明，漳州港屿仔尾海区建港的自然条件是优越的。     

曹妃甸粉沙质海岸围垦后港内泥沙研究

粉沙质海岸离岸围垦后港内淤积引人关注。基于平面二维潮流数学模型,采用网格嵌套技术,模拟了渤海、曹妃甸海域潮流场;该海域泥沙为粘性沙,且围垦后港内流速很小,采用悬沙运动数学模型模拟了潮流和波浪作用下正常天气和大风天的含沙量场,分析了大风后含沙量衰减过程,计算了正常天气年淤积强度和大风天泥沙淤积厚度。计算表明,外海泥沙主要通过甸头东侧老龙沟进入港池水域。正常天气下,港内流速小,基本处于淤积环境,但由于外海含沙量小,港池水域年淤积厚度小于10 cm。大风浪作用下,曹妃甸海域含沙量明显增大,由老龙沟进入三港池的泥沙沿程落淤,港内普遍淤积,泥沙淤积厚度在5 cm以内。     

深圳海域潮汐海啸波耦合数值研究

以COMCOT海啸模式和TPXO7.1全球潮汐模式为基础,采用三层嵌套网格,建立了南海海啸与潮汐耦合计算模型,分析深圳海域海啸和潮汐相互作用。潮汐计算结果与实测数据吻合较好,高、低潮位平均误差小于15 cm,20 cm;在潮汐验证的基础上,以马尼拉海沟潜在地震海啸源为案例,进行8.0,9.0级地震海啸与潮汐耦合情景模拟计算,计算结果表明,9级地震海啸在深圳海域外海波高为140~150 cm,如先行波为正波发生在高潮时将产生异常高潮位,负波发生在低潮时将产生异常低潮位,线性叠加计算结果偏大,在25.0 cm之内,到达时间差异小于6 min。     

Experimental and Numerical Study of Wave-Induced Long-Shore Currents on A Mild Slope Beach

1.Introduction Long shorecurrenthasbecomethesubjectofextensiveworldwideresearchformanyyears.The purposeofthestudyistounderstandandpredicttheprocessesofsedimenttransport,shorelineevolu tionandpollutanttransportinthenear shorezoneundertheactionofwaves.Goda(2001)regarded thesuspendedsedimentastheprincipalloadinsedimenttransportandtheeffectoflong shorecurrents wasemphasized.Theeffectofwavesonpollutanttransportwasstudiedbynumericalmodelandfield experiment(TaoandHan,2002;Rodriguezetal.,1995),andth…     

The generation of internal waves by the barotropic tide at an oceanic ridge

The generation of internal waves by the barotropic tide in a two-layer ocean of variable depth is studied within the framework of the linear theory of long waves in view of the Coriolis force. The relationships between the internal wave amplitude, the angle of climb of the barotropic tide, and the bottom elevation geometry are studied.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Experimental Study of Overtopping on Sea Dikes and Coastal Flooding Under the Coupled Processes of Tides and Waves

Storm surges are cataclysmic natural disasters that occur along the coasts and are usually accompanied by large waves. The effects of coupled storm surges and waves can pose a significant threat to coastal security. Previous laboratory studies on the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal structures have typically utilized steady water levels and constant wave elements. An indoor simulation of the coupled processes of tides and waves is developed by adding a tide generation system to an existing laboratory wave basin to model continuous dynamic tide levels so that tide generation and wave-making occur synchronously in the pool. Specific experimental methods are given, which are applied to further study waves overtopping on artificial sea dikes and coastal flooding evolution under the coupled actions of tides and waves. The results of the overtopping discharge obtained by the test with a dynamic water level are compared with those obtained from steady water level tests and the existing empirical formula. In addition, the impacts of ecological coastal shelterbelts and structures on coastal flood processes and distributions are also investigated. The proposed simulation methods provide a new approach for studying the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal areas. The study also aims to provide a reference for coastal protective engineering.

     

Second-order wavemaker theory for multidirectional waves

The present paper develops the complete second-order wavemaker theory for the generation of multidirectional waves in a semi-infinite basin. The theory includes superharmonics and subharmonics and is valid for a rotational as well as a translatory serpent-type wave-board motion. The primary goal is to obtain the second-order motion of the wave paddles required to get a prescribed multidirectional irregular wave field correct to second order, i.e. to suppress spurious free-wave generation. The wavemaker theory is a 3D extension of the full second-order wavemaker theory for wave flumes by Schäffer (1996).     

水位波动对临海重力式挡墙基坑稳定性的影响

近年来临海(江)建设的地下工程逐渐增多,与常规静水补给条件下的基坑工程相比,受波浪、潮汐等动水作用影响的基坑可能展现出不同的性状,对该类水力条件下基坑响应问题的研究具有重要的工程意义。依托港珠澳大桥珠海连接线拱北隧道海域段基坑工程,采用PLAXIS软件对波浪、潮汐作用下重力式挡墙两侧的水土压力、基坑的稳定性进行了探讨分析。结果表明,对于均质砂质地基上的重力式挡墙,当基坑距防波堤一定距离时,波浪对其稳定性的影响可以忽略不计;潮汐在海床和基坑中的传播有滞后效应,当潮汐为最高潮位时,基坑并非处于最危险状态;潮汐作用下临海重力式挡墙基坑的稳定性可以通过拟静水位法近似分析。     

Wind wave measurements and modelling in a fetch-limited semi-enclosed lagoon

The south-west reef lagoon of New Caledonia is a semi-enclosed basin where, on first approximation, dominating sea state component corresponds to locally generated wind waves. This study aims to evaluate the ability of the wave model WAVEWATCH III to simulate wind wave distribution in this particular fetch-limited context, with a given parameterisation. In order to evaluate the consistency of the simulation results, wave parameters were measured in situ by a wave and tide recorder (WTR9 Aanderaa) and by an acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV Sontek). This study underlines specific constrains for the deployment of instruments to assess the characteristic parameters of low amplitude and high frequency wind-waves. Special care was taken in the comparison step as, on one hand the wave model did not simulate the propagation of low-frequency oceanic waves inside the lagoon, and on the other hand the measured spectra bear an intrinsic limitation for high frequencies. The approximation of a sea state dominated by wind waves is verified on the study site. The accuracy of the simulation results is discussed with regards to the wind forcing applied to the model.     

Generation of surface and internal waves in a bounded basin by a moving baric front

We consider a plane problem of generation of surface and internal waves in a bounded rotating basin of variable depth by a front of atmospheric pressure moving over the basin. The fluid is assumed to be two-layer. The system of nonlinear long-wave equations is solved numerically by the method of finite differences for the distribution of depths corresponding to a zonal section of the Black-Sea basin. It is shown that the baric front moving over the basin generates barotropic and baroclinic oscillations of the fluid. The intensity of disturbances depends on the velocity of motion and the width of the front. There exists a velocity of motion of the front for which internal waves are generated especially efficiently. When the front leaves the basin, we observe the formation of a packet of internal waves propagating from one lateral boundary of the basin to the other boundary with reflections from the boundaries.     

Morphodynamics of intertidal bars on a megatidal beach, Merlimont, Northern France

The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves.     

内波与内潮汐沉积作用的方式

自20世纪90年代，内波、内潮汐沉积作为深水牵引流沉积研究中一个新的研究方向开始兴起，此后在国内外现代水体和古代地质记录中陆续发现或论证了大量的内波、内潮汐沉积，并对其沉积特征、沉积模式等进行了广泛的探讨和研究，然而对于内波、内潮汐沉积作用方式的研究还比较匮乏，这是内波、内潮汐理论发展的一大障碍。对于内波、内潮汐的作用方式做了初步探讨，相信对于该理论的发展以及更多内波、内潮汐沉积体的识别和研究具有一定意义。     

迎风有限元法在三维潮流数值模拟中的应用

为研究和开发迎风有限元法在河口海岸三维波数值模拟中的应用，并为建立三维物质扩散模型，最终为解决实际工程问题打下基础，以非线性浅水波方程为基础，采用一咱平面迎风有奶元与垂向工有限差分相结合地数值计算方法建立三维潮流数学模型，基地实际的物理过程，在计算中将三维流动分成外重力波和内重力波，耦联求解潮位和流速的空间分布。应用本模式计算了天津新港附近渤海海域的三维潮流运动，以较高的分辩率揭示了潮流空间结构特     

超强台风作用下钱塘江河口的台风浪计算

基于SWAN波浪传播模型建立包含风暴潮与天文潮耦合传播的台风浪数值模型,将1949年以来登陆我国大陆沿海最强的5612#台风作为典型的超强台风,计算了超强台风沿中线和北线路径登陆遭遇天文潮高潮位时产生的沿海波高过程。结果显示:河口波高总体分布下游大于上游,北岸大于南岸,两岸代表断面堤前最大有效波高可达5.5 m;中线路径生成的近岸台风浪波高为单峰过程,北线路径时北岸的波高出现双峰过程,波高峰值与风暴高潮位并非总是同步出现,两者时间差最大为4 h;根据频率曲线分析,中线、北线路径超强台风作用下乍浦站台风浪的重现期分别为135 a和350 a;中潮时的近岸台风浪波高比大潮降低0.1~0.2 m,小潮时再比中潮降低同样幅度。这些结论对海堤工程设计和防灾减灾具有重要意义。     

Numerical simulation of currents in a basin of variable depth with two straits

Within the framework of the linear theory of long waves, with regard for the turbulent viscosity, we study the development of tidal currents in a basin of variable depth with two straits. The problem is solved numerically. The velocity field on the strait-basin boundary is regarded as known. The numerical analysis is performed for different depths of the straits. We study the influence of the geometric characteristics of the basin on the amplitudes of the profile of free surface and wave velocity and establish the dependences of the wave characteristics on the period of current velocities in the strait and the parameters of the basin. In particular, it is shown that the increase in the period of current velocities in the strait leads to significant changes in the level and structure of currents. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 4, pp. 3–12, July–August, 2007.     

Tide simulation using the mild-slope equation with Coriolis force and bottom friction

Since the mild-slope equation was derived by Berkhoff (1972),the researchers considered various mechanism to simplify and improve the equation,which has been widely used for coastal wave field calculation.Recently,some scholars applied the mild-slope equation in simulating the tidal motion,which proves that the equation is capable to calculate the tide in actual terrain.But in their studies,they made a lot of simplifications,and did not consider the effects of Coriolis force and bottom friction on tidal wave.In this paper,the first-order linear mild-slope equations are deduced from Kirby mild-slope equation including wave and current interaction.Then,referring to the method of wave equations’ modification,the Coriolis force and bottom friction term are considered,and the effects of which have been performed with the radial sand ridges topography.Finally,the results show that the modified mild-slope equation can be used to simulate tidal motion,and the calculations agree well with the measurements,thus the applicability and validity of the mild-slope equation on tidal simulation are further proved.     

Simulation of directional waves in a numerical basin by a desingularized integral equation approach

A numerical solution is developed to investigate the generation and propagation of small-amplitude water waves in a semi-infinite rectangular wave basin. The three-dimensional wave field is produced by the prescribed “snake-like” motion of an array of segmented wave generators located along the wall at one end of the tank. The solution technique is based on the boundary element approach and uses an appropriate three-dimensional Green function which explicitly satisfies the tank-wall boundary conditions. The Green function and its derivatives which appear in the integral equation formulation can be shown to be slowly convergent when the source and field points are in close proximity. Therefore, when computing the velocity potentials on the wave generators, the source points are chosen outside the fluid domain, thereby ensuring the rapid convergence of these functions and rendering the integral equations non-singular. Numerical results are shown which illustrate the influence of the various wavemaker and basin parameters on the generated wave field. Finally, the complete wave field produced by the diffraction of oblique waves by a vertical circular cylinder in a basin is presented.     

The generation of internal waves by the diurnal barotropic tide in the area of extensive irregularity of the bottom topography

The generation of internal waves by the barotropic tide in a two-layer ocean of variable depth is studied within the framework of the linear theory of long waves in view of the Coriolis force. A barotropic wave climbs at an arbitrary angle to the axis of the extensive ridge with constantly varying profile. The relationships between the amplitudes of the generated internal waves, the location of the ridge, and the angle of climb of the barotropic tide are studied. The analogous research is given in refs 1 and 2.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov. UDK 532.59.