近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟

针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。     

海滩侵蚀的数值分析模型

介绍了有关海滩侵蚀造成海岸演变问题的数学分析模型。根据海岸线演化和海滩断面的沉积物迁移理论建立一种顺岸方向和垂直岸线方向海岸形状变化的耦合模型。将海滩沉积物被海浪迁移的机理看作由于海水在海滩介质孔隙内渗流侵蚀和海浪对海滩介质冲刷所致的海滩介质的孔隙损伤变化。这种结合数值和解析分析的综合方法可用于模拟海岸演变问题中海岸线 (沿岸方向 )和海滩断面 (垂直海岸线方向 )的变迁情况     

Numerical modelling of flow around coastal structures and scour prediction

The nearshore circulation and the wave characteristics are important parameters, which control coastline morphology. The interaction of nearshore circulation with coastal structures, modify the wave characteristics and seabed topography, often resulting in scour near the foundation of the structures. This paper deals with the numerical prediction of nearshore circulation induced due to wave setup in the nearshore region with and without the structure [(i) structure resting on seabed (ii) structure raised above the seabed]. It is also helps understand the deficiencies in studying the coastal characteristics by describing the flow field due to the wave velocity potential alone. Comparison of the results of both nearshore circulation and the wave potential model are discussed and the importance of the study and its prototype applications are highlighted.     

Development of a medium–long term beach evolution model

A new medium–long term beach evolution model is proposed. This model is based on an analytically integrated sediment conservation equation and on a beach profile evolution model. The sediment conservation equation provides the sediment supplies or losses. The beach profile evolution model redistributes the sediment supplies or losses along the beach profile. In the beach profile evolution model, the definition of the complete profile is incorporated (breaking zone, transition zone, exterior zone and geological zone). The proposed model has been applied to several theoretical cases and to field data, showing the advantages of this model compared to classical “one-line models”.     

人工砾石海滩变化及输移率研究

在我国采用砾石海滩在某些强动力区域进行海滩养护是一种新的尝试,具有很好的适用性。以厦门天泉湾人工砾石滩为研究对象,对2015年至2016年间10条海滩剖面开展了5次周期性监测,通过综合分析,得出在人工砾石滩竣工完成后的一年时间内,滩肩外沿线、岸线及滩面底角的砂砾分界线大幅度后退,滩肩宽度变窄;滩肩外沿线明显隆起,形成滩肩脊线;滩面坡度变大,且上游侧海滩的滩面普遍比下游侧海滩的滩面陡,一年后,岸滩整体变化趋于稳定。针对砾石滩不断向西南方向运移的现状,采用Leo C.van Rijn输移率公式计算砾石滩年平均输移率,并通过测量断面法、体积变化量法对Leo C.van Rijn公式计算结果进行验证,得出砾石滩年平均输移率的范围约为1 015.66~2 392.5 m~3/a。     

近岸人工沙坝的剖面演变规律和泥沙输运机制研究综述

近岸人工沙坝养滩是一种重要的海滩养护手段,开展人工沙坝地形演变研究是海岸带保护修复工程的重要需求。本文围绕不同动力条件下的人工沙坝横向迁移规律、形态演变模式、地貌耦合规律和水沙运动机制等理论层面,以及人工沙坝平衡剖面描述和演变过程数值模拟等方法层面,总结了近年来关于人工沙坝剖面演变规律和泥沙输运机制的国内外研究进展,并提出了关键过程机理深化、模拟预测方法改进和实际养滩工程应用等方面的今后研究重点。     

福建滨海沙滩保护和利用的建议

据调查,福建沿海分布有143处主要滨海沙滩,其中已开发利用28处,可合理利用81处,需加强生态保护修复的有21处,被严重破坏已不适宜做海滩资源的有13处。本文在介绍福建滨海沙滩分布及其资源特点基础上,阐述了沿海各地海滩资源的保护与利用现状,分析了主要的资源环境问题及成因,提出了制度建设、资源管控、优化岸滩工程、污染治理、公众宣传、资金保障等有针对性的对策措施。     

Measured and modeled wave overtopping on a natural beach

The rate of wave overtopping of a barrier beach is measured and modeled. Unique rate of wave overtopping field data are obtained from the measure of the Carmel River, California, lagoon filling during a time when the lagoon is closed-off with no river inflow. Volume changes are based on measured lagoon height changes applied to a measured hypsometric curve. Wave heights and periods are obtained from directional wave spectra data in 15 m fronting the beach. Beach morphology was measured by GPS walking surveys. Three empirical overtopping models by Van der Meer and Janssen (1995), Hedges and Reis (1998) and Pullen et al. (2007) with differing parameterizations on wave height, period and beach slope and calibrated using extensive laboratory data obtained over plane, impermeable beaches are applied in a quasi-2D manner and compared with the field observations. Three overtopping events are considered when morphology data were available less than 2 weeks prior to the event. The models are tuned to fit the data using a reduction factor to account for beach permeability, berm characteristics, non-normal wave incidence and surface roughness influence. In addition, the run-up model by Stockdon et al. (2006) based on field data is examined and found to underestimate run-up as the calculated values were too small to predict any of the observed overtopping. The three overtopping models performed similarly well with values of 0.72–0.87 for the two narrow-banded wave cases, with an average reduction factor of 0.78. The European model (Pullen et. al., 2007) performed best overall and in particular for the case of the broad-banded, double peaked wave spectrum.     

海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙作用研究进展

海滩养护已经成为全球基于自然(nature-based)海岸防护的主要手段,并得到广泛应用。随着全球强风区海岸海滩养护工程数量的增加,海滩养护对海岸风沙过程产生的一系列影响逐渐得到重视。海滩养护工程形成了新的海滩地貌形态,扩大了海滩风区、增加了风沙物源、提高了滩面高程、改变了滩面沉积物,海滩地貌和沉积物组分变化引起了风沙运动过程的变化,与自然海滩风沙过程相比,有其独特的过程和特征,已经成为海岸风沙研究的热点之一。本文从海滩养护影响下的风沙环境变化、风沙活动变化以及养护海滩对沙丘的影响等3个方面梳理了国内外研究进展,提出养护海滩风沙研究存在区域不平衡以及风沙过程的综合性影响和定量化研究不足等问题,并结合我国海滩养护未来的发展趋势,从强风区养护海滩风沙运动规律、养护海滩风沙环境全要素的综合影响和风沙作用变化的模型评估等方面展望了我国养护海滩风沙研究的未来发展方向。     

波浪动力因素变化对沙质岸滩演变的影响

通过波浪水槽实验,对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩,利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化,考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明,椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下,平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态,孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强,沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移,槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离,均呈现出良好规律性。     

Neural network modelling of wave overtopping at coastal structures

A method has been developed to estimate wave overtopping discharges for a wide range of coastal structures. The prediction method is based on Neural Network modelling. For this purpose use is made of a data set obtained from a large number of physical model tests (collected within the framework of the European project CLASH, see e.g. [Steendam, G.J., Van der Meer, J.W., Verhaeghe, H., Besley, P., Franco, L. and Van Gent, M.R.A. (2004). The international database on wave overtopping. World Scientific, Proc. 29th ICCE, vol. 4, pp. 4301–4313, Lisbon, Portugal.]). Moreover, a method was developed to obtain confidence intervals for the overtopping predictions of the neural network.     

设计彩沙示踪法研究滨海沙滩底沙运动--以厦门大学滨海沙滩为例

本文设计彩沙示踪法于厦大滨海沙滩东段进行试验 ,取得了沙粒运动方向、最大运移速度、扩散范围、沿岸输沙率及粒度分异运移状态等定量数据 ,弥补了以往示踪法难以定量分析的缺陷。结果表明 :调查期间 ,厦大滨海沙滩东段沙粒运动是构成厦门岛南岸岸滩在偏东向波浪作用下形成的西南向沿岸漂沙之一个环节 :沙粒大体平行岸线向北运动 ;沙粒沿岸最大运移速度为 2 0 0m/d ;经一个潮周期 ,沙粒向两侧的最大横向扩散距离为 2 0m ,最大垂直扩散深度达 7cm ;岸滩横断面沿岸输沙率为 42 5t/d ;在该岸段沿岸漂沙中 ,粗粒沙偏向低潮带一侧 ,而细粒沙偏向高潮带。     

Numerical modelling of liquefaction in loose sand deposits subjected to ocean waves

The failure of marine structures is often attributed to liquefaction in loose sand deposits that are subjected to ocean waves. In this study, a two-dimensional integrated numerical model is developed to characterize the liquefaction behaviours of loosely deposited seabed foundations under various types of ocean waves. In the present model, Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations are used to simulate the surface wave motion, and Biot's consolidation equations are used to link the solid-pore fluid interactions in a porous medium. A poro-elasto-plastic solution is used to reproduce foundation behaviour under cyclic shearing. Unlike previous investigations, both oscillatory and residual soil responses were considered; they are coupled in an instantaneous approach. Verification of the model results to the previous centrifugal wave tests is carried out, obtaining fairly good agreement. Numerical examples show that foundation behaviour under various types of wave loading, particularly standing waves or a solitary wave, embodies a completely two-dimensional process in terms of residual pore pressure development. The parametric studies demonstrate that liquefaction caused by the build-up of pore pressures is more likely to occur in loosely deposited sand foundations with poor drainage and under large waves.     

Numerical investigations of wave overtopping at coastal structures

Under the numerical modelling work package of the EU funded CLASH project, the time accurate, free surface capturing, incompressible Navier–Stokes solver AMAZON-SC has been applied to study impulsive wave overtopping at Samphire Hoe, near Dover in the United Kingdom. The simulations show that the overtopping process on this vertical, sheet pile, seawall is dominated by impulsive, aerated, near vertical overtopping jets. In order to perform the simulations AMAZON-SC has been extended to incorporate an isotropic porosity model and for validation purposes the solver has been applied to study overtopping of a low crested sea dike and a 10:1 battered wall. The results obtained for the battered wall and Samphire Hoe tests are in good agreement both with predicted overtopping discharges calculated using the UK overtopping manual and with available experimental results.     

波浪作用下级配泥沙海滩滩面变化试验研究

砂质海滩的泥沙具有一定的级配,在波浪作用下,滩面泥沙粒径将发生分选,引起海滩质量变化。在水槽中用不同波高和周期的波浪分别对不同级配的沙滩进行作用,探究滩面在波浪外动力作用下的变化规律。结果表明：全级配沙滩在相同波高波浪作用下形成的沙坝型海滩滩型中,破波点向海的区域表层泥沙分选会随波浪周期增大变差;相同周期(T=1.68s)波浪作用下,全级配沙滩在大波高(H=13.2cm)和小波高(H=6.7cm)的波浪作用下分别形成沙坝型和滩肩型海滩,滩面泥沙分选变好;原始沙滩级配与滩面泥沙变化密切相关,同种波浪动力作用下,中细、粗中沙滩沙坝表层泥沙迎波面粗于背波面,粗细沙滩粗颗粒集中在沙坝和滩顶之间。     

Numerical modelling of wave-induced currents in the presence of coastal structures

The hydrodynamic aspects of the general methodology of calculation of nearshore processes by means of numerical models are described. The paper focuses on the method implemented for calculating combined wave refraction-diffraction and reflection due to coastal structures and the associated radiation stresses.Results of numerical modelling are compared with experimental data obtained by Gourlay in the case of a shore-connected breakwater with periodic waves.A good agreement is found between both methods of investigation as concerns the spatial distribution of wave height and mean water level (wave-induced set-up). A good similarity of the wave-induced eddies in the lee of the structure is observed. A less satisfactory agreement is obtained between the velocity distributions in several profiles normal to the shore, although the overall order of magnitude is the same.A critical review of several wave-breaking criteria and sensitivity tests of the numerical model lead to advocate the use of the CERC criterion, particularly with steep beach slopes.     

滩涂围垦对东台海岸带景观格局影响研究

借助遥感和GIS技术,通过景观格局指数的计算,来分析围垦对东台海岸带景观格局的影响。研究发现,1995-2006年间,围垦区海岸带景观破碎化程度减弱,斑块形状的多样性和复杂性程度降低,景观格局态势朝单一化方向发展,景观异质性在整体上有减弱的趋势。然而,在空间上景观格局的变化又有异于整体。主要表现为:农业区破碎化程度减弱,斑块形状简单化,景观格局朝均衡化分布;笆斗区破碎化程度加剧,斑块形状复杂化,优势斑块碱篷被耕地替代;三仓区破碎化程度加剧,斑块形状趋于复杂,由滩地、碱篷为主的景观格局演变成滩地、耕地、碱篷比重势均的格局。总之,围垦区内自然景观的破碎度增强,各斑块类型的形状日渐复杂,景观空间结构趋于复杂化。     

人工岛对沙质海岸动力泥沙环境及岸滩冲淤演变的影响研究

基于历史海图、历史时期卫星遥感影像、2019年实测水下地形和潮流、波浪数值模拟成果,研究该海域岸滩的发育演变背景、海床和岸线自然冲淤动态、动力泥沙环境及岸滩冲淤动力机制。采用LITLINE岸线演变数学模型,模拟计算了不同离岸距离和不同平面形态人工岛布置型式对近岸岸线变形的影响,岸滩泥沙动力机制和岸滩演变趋势表明,人工岛实施后近岸最大潮流流速小于近岸泥沙起动流速,不具备起动近岸岸滩泥沙的基本条件; SSE向波浪作用时,人工岛西北侧波高明显减弱,波向西偏; S向波浪作用时,人工岛北侧波高明显减弱; SSW向波浪作用时,人工岛东北侧波高明显减弱,波浪传播方向东偏;波浪场改变后人工岛掩护区东西两侧岸滩附近泥沙分别具有向东和向西运移至人工岛掩护区的趋势,形成掩护区的淤积和东西两侧岸线冲刷。     

波浪变形的数学模型

本文给出一个在复杂水深地形条件下计算包括折射和绕射效应的线性波浪变形数学模型。该模型用差分方法进行求解,并应用于兴化湾江阴岛码头及航道的波浪要素计算,所得结果与其他方法的结果进行比较。通过实际应用说明它是计算开阔海域波浪变形的有力工具。