Sediment flux and equilibrium slopes in a barred nearshore

Estimates of time-integrated values of total (ITVF) and net (INVF) sediment volume flux and the associated changes in bed elevation and local slope were determined for a crescentic outer nearshore bar in Kouchibouguac Bay, New Brunswick, Canada, for eight discrete storm events. A 100 × 150 m grid of depth-of-activity rods spaced at 10 m intervals was used to monitor sediment behaviour on the seaward slope, bar crest and landward slope during the storms, at which time winds, incident waves and near-bed oscillatory currents were measured. Comparisons between storm events and between these events and a longer-term synthetic wave climatology were facilitated using hindcast wave parameters. Strong positive correlations between storm-wave conditions (significant height and total cumulative energy) and total volume flux contrasted strongly with the zero correlation between storm-wave conditions and net volume flux. ITVF values ranged up to 1646 m³ for the experimental grid and were found to have power function relations with significant wave height (exponent 2) and cumulative wave wave energy (exponent 0.4); values of INVF ranged from 0 up to 100 m³ for the same grid indicating a balance of sediment volume in the bar form through time. Sediment reactivation increased linearly with decreasing depth across the seaward slope and bar crest reaching maxima of 20 cm for the two largest storms; bed elevation, and thus slope, changes were restricted to the bar crest and upper landward slope with near zero morphological change on the seaward slope. The latter represents a steady-state equilibrium with null net transport of sediment under shoaling waves. Measurements of the asymmetry of orbital velocities close to the bed show that the energetics approach to predicting beach slope of Inman and Bagnold (1963) is sound. Gradients predicted vary from 0.01 to 0.03 for a range of angles of internal friction appropriate to the local sediment (tan ø = 0.3–0.6). These compare favorably with the measured seaward slope of 0.015 formed under average maximum orbital velocities of 1.12 m s⁻¹ (landward) and 1.09 m s⁻¹ (seaward) recorded during the period of the largest storm waves.     

Sediment transport and morphology at the surf zone of Presque Isle, Lake Erie, Pennsylvania

A four-year investigation of surf zone sedimentation at Presque Isle, Pennsylvania, was undertaken in preparation for the design of a segmented breakwater system. Sediment transport calculations were based on hind-cast annual wave power statistics and “calibrated” by known accretion rates at the downdrift spit terminus. 30,000 m³ of sediment reaches the peninsula annually from updrift beaches. The transport volume increases downdrift due to shoreface erosion and retreat of the peninsular neck. At the most exposed point on Presque Isle (the lighthouse) the annual transport is 209,000 m³. East of the lighthouse is a zone of net shoreface accretion as the longshore transport rate progressively decreases.

The downdrift variation in sediment supply, combined with increasing refraction and attenuation of the dominant westerly storm waves produce a systematic change in prevailing surf zone morphology. Storms produce a major longshore bar and trough along the exposed peninsular neck. The wave energy during non-storm periods is too low to significantly alter the bar which consequently becomes a permanent feature. The broad shoreface and reduced wave energy level east of the lighthouse produce a morphology characterized by large crescentic outer bars, transverse bars, and megacusps along the beach. At the sheltered and rapidly prograding eastern spit terminus the prevalent beach morphology is that of a ridge and runnel system in front of a megacuspate shore.

The morphodynamic surf zone model developed for oceanic beaches in Australia is used as a basis for interpretation of shoreface morphologic variability at Presque Isle. In spite of interference by major shoreline stabilization structures, and differences between oceanic and lake wave spectra, the nearshore bar field at Presque Isle does closely correspond to the Australian model.     

Bedforms and depositional sedimentary structures of a barred nearshore system, eastern Long Island, New York

The depositional sedimentary structures and textures of a single-barred nearshore system on the Atlantic coast of eastern Long Island, New York, were studied along seven shore-normal transects. Data along these transects consisted of textural analysis of 160 sediment samples, temporal bedform observations, and 42 can cores for the analysis of sedimentary structures.

Six sedimentary subenvironments were observed, based on distinct combinations of sediment color and texture, bedforms, physical, and biogenic sedimentary structures, and benthic infaunal communities. The shoreface environment is divided into the upper shoreface, the longshore trough, and the longshore bar. The divisions of the inner shelf environment are the shoreface-inner shelf transition, the offshore, and the coarse-grained deposit. The first five subenvironments are arranged in bands parallel to the shoreline, whereas the coarse-grained deposit occurs in patches across the inner shelf.

The location of fair-weather wave base, coinciding with a reduction in slope (3.0–0.3°) from the shoreface to the inner shelf, is characterized by the cessation of debris surge in the troughs of ripples, the formation of a “rust layer” of microorganisms over the bedform surface, and a sediment color change caused by an increase in organic detritus. The sequence of bedforms and physical sedimentary structures observed in this system fits well with existing wave-generated (oscillatory) flow regime models. These models explain the observed sequences as a response to the degree of asymmetric flow created by shoaling waves. Distribution of biogenic structures and assemblages of infaunal organisms is influenced by the distance landward or seaward of fair-weather wave base.

The overall relationships of this nearshore system can then be summarized as a hypothetical prograding stratigraphic sequence. The entire sequence is underlain by organic-rich, bioturbated, offshore deposits. Overlying the offshore is the planar-laminated sediments of the transition. Grading upward from the transition are the cleaner, planar-laminated, seaward slope deposits of the longshore bar. Above this, is a distinct erosional surface indicating the base of the massive to cross-laminated coarse sediments of the longshore trough. Capping the sequence are the cross- to planar-laminated, clean sands of the upper shoreface and foreshore.     

Across-shelf sediment dispersal, Hauraki Gulf, New Zealand

Side-scan, seismic and surficial sediment data accompanied by current meter records highlight across-shelf sediment transport in Hauraki Gulf, an island-studded embayment off northern New Zealand. Calm weather currents are locally dominated by the tides, with periodic incursions of oceanic water from detached meanders of the East Auckland Current. Under these conditions, bedload transport occurs mainly in three 15–20 km-wide channels, where bathymetric intensification of the flow brings about near-bottom speeds of up to 82 cm s⁻¹ for Colville Channel and 33–44 cm s⁻¹ in Jellicoe and Cradock Channels. Surficial sediments are gravelly to muddy sand, winnowed in places, leaving a lag deposit of mainly biogenic carbonate gravel. Modelling results suggest that in Colville Channel, dominant fine to medium sand modes are mobile for 20–60% of the time, with a net eastward movement for fine sand. In Jellicoe and Cradock Channels, the prevailing direction of transport is southwards across the shelf, with sand mobile for up to 33% of the time. Oceanic incursions have the potential to boost flow in the western Gulf, however such incursions are transitory, and there is no measurable expression of oceanic water in the sedimentary record. Because of their association with prolonged periods of calm weather, the incursions are unlikely to accompany storm events, where their cumulative effect might be important for sediment transport. Near-bottom currents resulting from oceanic incursion may reinforce peak tides inside the Gulf by up to 2–4 cm s⁻¹. Enhancement of prevailing water motions occurs during periods of extreme weather. During cyclone Drena (January 1997), measured flow speeds in Jellicoe Channel reached 48 cm s⁻¹. Furthermore, the disturbance generated large waves that stirred bottom sediments down to over 100 m water depth. Such events are probably the major agent of sediment redistribution in the Hauraki Gulf. The net effect of storm and calm weather currents is to move sediment across the outer to middle shelf where, in the western and central Gulf it accumulates, and in the eastern Gulf it escapes eastward via Colville Channel.     

Sedimentology and morphodynamics of a macrotidal beach, Pendine Sands, SW Wales

The foreshore of Pendine Sands forms the seaward part of an extensive, sandy coastal barrier in a shallow Carmarthen Bay, SW Wales. The sedimentological features of the macrotidal foreshore reflect a tide-induced modification of nearshore wave characteristics. As the tide ebbs, the breaker height may decrease, the surf zone widens and becomes increasingly dissipative, and swash/backwash velocities diminish. A concomitant change from plunging to spilling breakers and increasingly symmetrical swash zone flows are associated with a decreasing beach gradient.

A zero net transport model demonstrates that the beach profile is self-stabilising in the short-term, and periodic levelling has shown that the beach is in long-term equilibrium with prevailing conditions, though this does not preclude a significant dynamic response to changing tides and waves.

The flow regimes of wave-generated currents decline as the tide ebbs, and normal beach processes do not usually affect the lower foreshore. Accordingly, there is an overall seaward-fining of the primary framework component of the sands. In more detail, this framework component displays a slight seaward-coarsening across an upper foreshore dominated by high water swash and surf; a rapid seaward-fining across the mid-foreshore in response to the ebb-attenuating swash zone flow velocities; and a slight seaward-fining across the lower foreshore under the action of nearshore shoaling waves. Bedforms vary from a swash/backwash emplaced flat bed across the upper foreshore to the small ripples of nearshore asymmetric oscillatory flows across the lower foreshore.

The surface sediment veneer is not representative of the subsurface sediments which form in response partly to fairweather conditions, partly to storms. The upper foreshore is characterised by swash/backwash emplaced plane bedding in fine sands frequently disrupted by bubble cavities. The mid-foreshore is composed of coarser-grained shelly traction clogs arranged as landward- and seaward-dipping large-scale cross bedding and/or plane bedding; these are probably storm breaker/surf deposits. The lower foreshore, though partially and sometimes totally bioturbated, shows landward-dipping small-scale cross bedding in very fine sands sorted by nearshore shoaling waves.

Tide- and storm-induced modification of the nearshore flow regimes therefore produces a distinctive shore-normal array of sedimentary facies. Each facies is characterised by diagnostic textural and structural signatures. A prograding sequence of such macrotidal deposits would be similar to, but more extensive than, a comparable microtidal sequence.     

The effects of storms and storm-generated currents on sand beaches in Southern Maine, USA

Storms are one of the most important controls on the cycle of erosion and accretion on beaches. Current meters placed in shoreface locations of Saco Bay and Wells Embayment, ME, recorded bottom currents during the winter months of 2000 and 2001, while teams of volunteers profiled the topography of nearby beaches. Coupling offshore meteorological and beach profile data made it possible to determine the response of nine beaches in southern Maine to various oceanographic and meteorological conditions. The beaches selected for profiling ranged from pristine to completely developed and permitted further examination of the role of seawalls on the response of beaches to storms.

Current meters documented three unique types of storms: frontal passages, southwest storms, and northeast storms. In general, the current meter results indicate that frontal passages and southwest storms were responsible for bringing sediment towards the shore, while northeast storms resulted in a net movement of sediment away from the beach. During the 1999–2000 winter, there were a greater percentage of frontal passages and southwest storms, while during the 2000–2001 winter, there were more northeast storms. The sediment that was transported landward during the 1999–2000 winter was reworked into the berm along moderately and highly developed beaches during the next summer.

A northeast storm on March 5–6, 2001, resulted in currents in excess of 1 m s⁻¹ and wave heights that reached six meters. The storm persisted over 10 high tides and caused coastal flooding and property damage. Topographic profiles made before and after the storm demonstrate that developed beaches experienced a loss of sediment volume during the storm, while sediment was redistributed along the profile on moderately developed and undeveloped beaches. Two months after the storm, the profiles along the developed beaches had not reached their pre-storm elevation. In comparison, the moderately developed and undeveloped beaches reached and exceeded their pre-storm elevation and began to show berm buildup characteristic of the summer months.     

Morphodynamics of intertidal bars on a megatidal beach, Merlimont, Northern France

The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves.     

雷州市沿海风暴潮淹没危险性评估*

文章基于近岸海洋数值模式ADCIRC (a parallel advanced circulation model for oceanic, coastal and estuarine waters)和近海波浪数值模式SWAN (simulating waves nearshore), 建立雷州市高分辨率的风暴潮-海浪耦合漫滩数值模型, 并反演了对雷州市影响较为严重的1415号台风“海鸥”的风暴潮过程。经过对比分析得出, 波浪对雷州市沿海海域的风暴潮产生重要影响。然后以8007号台风路径为基础, 构造了7个不同等级共35组台风风暴潮案例, 计算分析出不同等级台风强度下雷州市风暴潮淹没范围及水深。900hPa等级下, 雷州市淹没面积达到463.2km²。文章还构造了60组可能最大风暴潮事件集, 计算得到雷州市可能最大台风风暴潮淹没范围及水深分布。在可能最大台风影响下, 大量海水将漫过海堤, 造成极其严重的淹没灾害, 雷州市总的淹没面积可达602.0km², 其中465.8km²的淹没面积达到了危险性等级 Ⅰ 级, 淹没水深大于3m。雷州市东岸的淹没灾害大于西岸。     

Abyssal current influence on the southwest Bermuda Rise and surrounding region

Echograms (3.5 kHz) and bottom photographs reveal that the northward flowing Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW) has strongly influenced the modern depositional regime on the southwest Bermuda Rise. The spatial distribution of echo character types, the orientation and nature of current-controlled structures, and limited current meter data show that AABW flows with varying intensities along three primary pathways around and over the southwest Bermuda Rise. The main core of AABW flows clockwise around the eastern and western flanks of the southern Bermuda Rise, roughly parallel to the 5400 m isobath. This current bifurcates at 28°30′N, 69°W where a portion flows northeast over the southwest Bermuda Rise and the remainder continues north along the physiographic boundary between the southwest Bermuda Rise and the Hatteras Abyssal Plain. Secondary ribbons of AABW branch off the main core of AABW during its southerly journey along the southeastern Bermuda Rise, and flow west through fracture zones. Finally, a diffuse, northward flowing AABW sweeps the entire southwest Bermuda Rise.

A progression of current-controlled bedforms occurs beneath the main path of the AABW reflecting the spatially varying current velocities and sediment supply. The main core of AABW flows west through the narrow Vema Gap creating erosional furrows along the border between the southwest Bermuda Rise and the Vema Gap. Current velocities greater than 20 cm s⁻¹ are inferred from the bedforms in this region. Farther north along the southwestern edge of the Bermuda Rise, sediment waves become more prevalent. This transition from erosional to more depositional bedforms results from diminished current velocities (5–15 cm s⁻¹) and increased sediment supply. Although some of these bedforms on the southwest Bermuda Rise appear to be relict, their orientation is consistent with current meter data and abyssal current direction inferred from bottom photographs.     

Control of barrier island shape by inlet sediment bypassing: East Frisian Islands, West Germany

A study of the East Frisian Islands has shown that the plan form of these islands can be explained by processes of inlet sediment bypassing. This island chain is located on a high wave energy, high tide range shoreline where the average deep-water significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 m at Juist to 2.9 m at Wangerooge. An abundant sediment supply and a strong eastward component of wave power (4.4 × 10³ W m⁻¹) have caused a persistent eastward growth of the barrier islands. The eastward extension of the barriers has been accommodated more by inlet narrowing, than by inlet migration.

It is estimated from morphological evidence that a minimum of 2.7 × 10⁵ m³ of sand is delivered to the inlets each year via the easterly longshore transport system. Much of this sand ultimately bypasses the inlets in the form of large, migrating swash bars. The location where the swash bars attach to the beach is controlled by the amount of overlap of the ebb-tidal delta along the downdrift inlet shoreline. The configuration of the ebbtidal delta, in turn, is a function of inlet size and position of the main ebb channel. The swash bar welding process has caused preferential beach nourishment and historical shoreline progradation. Along the East Frisian Islands this process has produced barrier islands with humpbacked, bulbous updrift and bulbous downdrift shapes. The model of barrier island development presented in this paper not only explains well the configuration of the German barriers but also the morphology of barriers along many other mixed energy coasts.     

A note on megaripples in the surf zone: evidence for their relation to steady flow dunes

Megaripples in the combined flow environment of the nearshore are proposed to behave like dunes or large ripples in rivers, tidal estuaries, and deserts. Their profile basically is symmetric and thus significantly different from the traditional asymmetric triangular features observed in steady flows. Similarly their planform often exhibits little directionality, unlike crescentic or lunate steady flow dunes that point in the downstream direction. These characteristics are the result of complex combined flows in the nearshore, including oscillatory flows, wave skewness, and steady currents (undertow, rips and alongshore flows). Recent observations of megaripples in the nearshore suggest that they occur frequently. However, they are rarely considered in studies of flow resistance or sediment transport. In addition, megaripples are thought to be the source of hummocky cross-stratification in sedimentary sequences and are generally attributed to storm waves on inner continental shelves. However, observations show that they also exist inside the surf zone and under lower-energy conditions. A better understanding of their dynamics and thus their occurrence and characteristics would improve the understanding of nearshore wave and circulation dynamics, sediment transport, large-scale morphodynamics, and the resulting sedimentary sequences. It is hypothesized that megaripples in the nearshore are dynamically similar to steady flow features, which are observed in rivers, estuaries and deserts and have been studied in much more detail.     

Experimental simulation of shoreface nourishments under storm events: A morphological,hydrodynamic, and sediment grain size analysis

This study focuses on barred beach shoreface nourishments physically simulated in a wave flume. The attack of a schematic storm on three different nourishments is analysed. The apex and waning storm phases lead respectively to offshore and onshore sediment transports. Nourishments in the trough and on the outer bar feed the bar and increase wave dissipation offshore. The bar acts as a wave filter and reduces shore erosion (lee effect). In contrast, nourishment on the beach face leads mostly to shore feeding and reconstruction (feeder effect). With successive nourishments, the beach face clearly becomes steeper and onshore sediment transport is reduced during moderate wave climates. The surface grain size analysis reveals marked variations. Coarser sediments are sorted on the bar and the upper beach face. These locations correspond to large wave dissipation zones during the storm apex.     

Sediment distribution and transport along a rocky, embayed coast: Monterey Peninsula and Carmel Bay, California

Field measurements of beach morphology and sedimentology were made along the Monterey Peninsula and Carmel Bay, California, in the spring and summer of 1997. These data were combined with low-altitude aerial imagery, high-resolution bathymetry, and local geology to understand how coastal geomorphology, lithology, and tectonics influence the distribution and transport of littoral sediment in the nearshore and inner shelf along a rocky shoreline over the course of decades. Three primary modes of sediment distribution in the nearshore and on the inner shelf off the Monterey Peninsula and in Carmel Bay were observed. Along stretches of the study area that were exposed to the dominant wave direction, sediment has accumulated in shore-normal bathymetric lows interpreted to be paleo-stream channels. Where the coastline is oriented parallel to the dominant wave direction and streams channels trend perpendicular to the coast, sediment-filled paleo-stream channels occur in the nearshore as well, but here they are connected to one another by shore-parallel ribbons of sediment at depths between 2 and 6 m. Where the coastline is oriented parallel to the dominant wave direction and onshore stream channels are not present, only shore-parallel patches of sediment at depths greater than 15 m are present. We interpret the distribution and interaction or transport of littoral sediment between pocket beaches along this coastline to be primarily controlled by the northwest-trending structure of the region and the dominant oceanographic regime. Because of the structural barriers to littoral transport, peaks in wave energy appear to be the dominant factor controlling the timing and magnitude of sediment transport between pocket beaches, more so than along long linear coasts. Accordingly, the magnitude and timing of sediment transport is dictated by the episodic nature of storm activity.     

Tidal asymmetry in suspended sand transport on a macrotidal intermediate beach

Time-series of nearbed horizontal flow velocities and suspended sediment concentrations obtained from a colocated electromagnetic current meter (EMCM) and optical backscatter sensor (OBS), respectively, are used to examine the relative importance of steady and fluctuating components to the total sediment transport over a full tidal cycle on a macrotidal, intermediate beach (Spurn Head, UK). Fluctuating sediment fluxes are decomposed into gravity and infragravity contributions using co-spectral techniques. The relative importance of the oscillatory (gravity and infragravity) and steady (mean) transport components to the total sediment transport is analysed throughout the tidal cycle.

A continuum of 34 discrete suspended sediment-cross-shore velocity co-spectra are computed over a full tidal cycle for the OBS and EMCM measurements 0.10 m above the bed. These net transport spectra vary greatly both with cross-shore location and tidal state. In particular, a marked asymmetry in transport processes is evident between the flood and ebb tides, with high levels of sediment resuspension and transport occurring on the ebbing tide approximately two hours after high water (just seaward of the breakpoint). At this time the dominant transport was directed offshore (co-spectral peak, 0.04 kg/m²/s) at incident wave frequency.

Typical patterns are observed in transport spectra outside the surf zone and within the inner surf zone. Outside the narrow surf zone cross-shore transport spectra show weak offshore transport (co-spectral peak = 0.002 kg/m²/s) associated with bound long waves and stronger onshore transport (co-spectral peak = 0.006 kg/m²/s) at incident wave frequencies. Conversely, co-spectra computed within the inner surf zone show the offshore sediment fluxes (spectral peak = 0.010 kg/m²/s) at infragravity frequencies to be greater in magnitude than the corresponding onshore transport (co-spectral peak = 0.008 kg/m²/s) occurring at incident wave frequencies.     

The anatomy and provenance of thick volcaniclastic flows in the Cretan Basin, South Aegean Sea

Santorini volcano has been the largest source of volcaniclastic sediment in the Eastern Mediterranean during the late Quaternary. A dozen cores from the Cretan Basin, south of Santorini, have sampled two megabeds that consist of gravity emplaced volcaniclastic sequences. The uppermost megabed U consists of a succession of five (U₅–U₁) base cut out turbiditic units. Lower megabed A is a single turbiditic event. Only the uppermost U₂ and U₁ turbidites are separated from the underlying beds by hemipelagic marls. The texture and composition of the U and A megabeds closely match the texture and composition of the fine, vitric ash of the “Minoan” deposits on Santorini islands, dating from about 3500 yr BP. These megabeds are therefore attributed to rapid accumulation of separate gravity flows fed by the “Minoan” eruption, except for the upper U₂ and U₁ turbidites deposited from subsequent gravity flows transporting eroded volcaniclastic sediments. With the exception of the margin south of Santorini, dozens of cores retrieved around the margins of the Cretan Basin have a continuous late Quaternary succession that shows no evidence for massive sediment remobilization into the deeper basin, including the passage of the “Minoan” tsunami.

Extensive high-resolution 3.5 kHz records revealed the acoustic character, architecture and distribution of the U and A megabeds and four underlying late Quaternary volcanogenic megabeds in the Cretan Basin. The acoustic facies of megabeds are typical of megaturbidites and consist of an upper, transparent, lower velocity layer that corresponds to the fine-grained upper turbiditic silt and clay section and a lower, strongly reflective higher velocity section that corresponds to the lowest, coarser-grained base of the turbidite that is developed over a sharp erosional surface. Penetration of the high-resolution records reveals the existence of at least six megabeds. Correlation with core lithology and the physical properties of the various lithofacies, including down-core velocity profiles, has allowed us to determine the thickness and volumes of the upper four megabeds which are: U ≤ 9 m thick, volume 3.7 km³; A ≤ 25 m thick, volume 12.2 km³; B ≤ 22 m thick, volume 10.3 km³; C ≤ 15 m thick, volume 8 km³. These thick megabeds are the uppermost products of repeated explosive eruption of Santorini in the late Quaternary. Calculated sedimentation rates from and after the “Minoan” eruption are 9.4 m/1000 yr that rise to over 15.7 m/1000 yr if megabed B was also deposited during this eruption.     

A large mid-channel sand bar in the macrotidal seaway of outer Asan Bay, Korea: 30 years of morphologic response to anthropogenic impacts

Over the past three decades, dike constructions along the shores and dredging activities for navigation purposes have caused significant sedimentologic/morphologic modifications of a mid-channel bar situated in the tidal seaway of outer Asan Bay, Korea, as shown by a comparison of two sediment datasets collected in the channel and over the bar in 1977 and 2008. In addition, three hydrographic charts published in 1976, 1989, and 2006 were analyzed using GIS to estimate sand volume budgets and any bar migration. The bar is currently about 15 km long and 2–5 km wide, with a relief of 15 m. It is elongated in the tidal flow direction, but asymmetric in cross section. Chart analyses reveal a dramatic reduction in size and volume over the study period. An approximate 19% net loss in total sediment volume was calculated between 1976 and 1989. Since then, a net gain of about 7% has been estimated. The surface areas between selected depth contours reveal a similar pattern, i.e., substantial shrinking until 1989, followed by slight expansion up to 2006. Comparing selected textural parameters (mean grain size, sorting) of a 2008 sediment sampling campaign with those of a 1977 survey, it was found that mean grain sizes have decreased by as much as 1-phi interval, and that the sediments have become more poorly sorted in the vicinity of the bar over the 30-year study period, probably due to a sudden decrease in tidal energy flux after completion of the adjacent dikes. A particular feature is the temporary response of the bar to man-made impacts, characterized by substantial shrinking along its southwestern flank, and slight expansion along its northeastern flank. The observed changes in bar morphology can plausibly be explained by a sudden decrease in sediment supply resulting from a reduction in tidal prism in the wake of diking. The bar initially shrunk, but since 1989 has begun to gradually recover. To compensate the deficit, the bar has lowered its base level by scouring troughs along both flanks.     

风暴过程中潮滩悬沙浓度和悬沙输运的变化及其动力机制——以长江三角洲南汇潮滩为例

悬沙浓度是淤泥质海岸重要的环境指标。为探讨潮滩悬沙浓度和悬沙输运对风暴事件的响应过程及其动力机制,于2014年9月"凤凰"台风过境前、中、后在长江三角洲南汇潮滩进行了现场观测,获得同步高分辨率的水深、波高、近底流速和浊度剖面时间序列(9个潮周期)。结果表明,风暴中平均和最大波高、波-流联合底床剪切应力、悬沙浓度和悬沙输运率可比平静天气高数倍;风暴期间高潮位低流速阶段悬沙沉降导致近底发育数十厘米厚的浮泥层(悬沙浓度大于10 g/L)。研究认为风暴事件中淤泥质海岸悬沙浓度和悬沙输运的剧烈变化其根本动力机制是风暴把巨大能量传递给近岸水体,进而显著增大波-流联合底床剪切应力,导致细颗粒泥沙再悬浮。     

River flooding, storm resuspension, and event stratigraphy on the northern California shelf: observations compared with simulations

Coast-hugging surface flood plumes occur on the inner shelf of northern California during the winter season, generating dense, near-bottom suspensions which may attain fluid mud concentrations as particles settle. The period of storm-heightened waves may continue into the flood period, leading to gravity-driven seaward displacement of the bottom suspension; or the wave regime may ameliorate, leaving the suspension to consolidate as a short-lived, inner-shelf flood bed. Such beds tend to be resuspended within days or weeks by subsequent storm events that may recreate the original high concentrations. The sediment is thus dispersed seaward by gravity flows, to be deposited as a muddy flood bed on the central shelf. The locus of deposition of these “high-concentration regimes” is a function of the relative intensities of river discharge and storm wave height. Greater discharge piles thicker storm beds nearer shore, while intense wave regimes allow deposition of the fluid mud further seaward. During events with high values of both parameters, large amount of fluid mud may bypass over the shelf edge. In contrast, “low-concentration regimes” occur during storm periods when there has been no recent flood deposition on the inner shelf. The shelf floor is better consolidated than in the previous case, and the resulting suspended sediment concentrations are lower. As a consequence, low-concentration regimes are winnowing and bypassing regimes, and the beds deposited are thinner and sandier. Algorithms describing deposition by high and low-concentration regimes have been embedded in a probabilistic model. A simulation of a 400-year sequence of beds deposited by winter storms and floods suggests that on the Eel shelf, the Holocene transgressive systems tract consists of back-stepping, seaward-fining event beds, whose timelines (bedding planes) dip more gently than do their gradational facies boundaries. At these longer time scales, flood beds dominate over storm beds.     

Longshore drift estimation using fluorescent tracers: New insights from an experiment at Comporta Beach, Portugal

A fluorescent sand-tracer experiment was performed at Comporta Beach (Portugal) with the aim of acquiring longshore sediment transport data on a reflective beach, the optimization of field and laboratory tracer procedures and the improvement of the conceptual model used to support tracer data interpretation.

The field experiment was performed on a mesotidal reflective beach face in low energetic conditions (significant wave height between 0.4 and 0.5 m). Two different colour tracers (orange and blue) were injected at low tide and sampled in the two subsequent low tides using a high resolution 3D grid extending 450 m alongshore and 30 m cross-shore. Marked sand was detected using an automatic digital image processing system developed in the scope of the present experiment.

Results for the two colour tracers show a remarkable coherence, with high recovery rates attesting data validity. Sand tracer displayed a high advection velocity, but with distinct vertical distribution patterns in the two tides: in the first tide there was a clear decrease in tracer advection velocity with depth while in the second tide, the tracer exhibited an almost uniform vertical velocity distribution. This differing behaviour suggests that, in the first tide, the tracer had not reached equilibrium within the transport system, pointing to a considerable time lag between injection and complete mixing. This issue has important implications for the interpretation of tracer data, indicating that short term tracer experiments tend to overestimate transport rates. In this work, therefore, longshore estimates were based on tracer results obtained during the second tide.

The estimated total longshore transport rate at Comporta Beach was 2 × 10^− 3 m³/s, more than four times larger than predicted using standard empirical longshore formulas. This discrepancy, which results from the unusually large active moving layer observed during the experiment, confirms the idea that most common longshore transport equations under-estimate total sediment transport in plunging/surging waves.     

The morphology and migration of transverse bars off the west-central Florida coast

A series of migrating shore-normal sandbars with wavelengths of 75–120 m and heights up to 2 m have been identified off the northern tip of Anna Maria Island, a barrier island on the west-central Florida coast. Similar features have been described elsewhere since the 1930s and termed ‘transverse bars’. The transverse bars identified off Anna Maria Island are found for about 3 km along the coast and extend 4 km offshore, well outside the normal surf-zone width. No cusps or any other associated beach expression is evident despite the fact that the bars come to within about 75 m of the beach. Sediments on the crests of the bars are a well-sorted fine quartz sand, whereas sediments in the troughs are a poorly sorted coarse carbonate shell hash. Historical aerial photographs and repeated high-resolution bathymetric surveys provide a means of quantifying the migration of the transverse bars. Analyses of orthorectified aerial photographs from the early 1940s through the mid 1990s clearly show movement or migration taking place in the bar field. In the 40-yr period from 1951 to 1991, the southern edge of the bar field moved 200–350 m to the south, with an average long-term migration rate of 8 m/yr. Repeated bathymetric surveys over an 8-month period give an average short-term migration rate of 21 m/yr to the south. Wave and current measurements suggest that southerly winds associated with the passage of cold fronts drive near-bed currents to the south that are strong enough to initiate sediment transport and cause the southerly migration of the transverse bars.