浅滩地形上波浪破碎对低频波能放大的影响

低频长波对港湾共振、泥沙输运、波浪爬高与越浪等过程有重要影响。采用非静压模型SWASH模拟了不规则波在浅滩上的传播及破碎过程,重点探讨了滩顶短波破碎程度对低频波能演变的影响。模拟结果显示,当滩顶短波处于临界破碎状态时,低频波能流沿浅滩持续增长,浅滩对低频长波的放大效应（滩后与滩前低频波能流之比）显著;当滩顶短波轻微破碎、破波仅发生在外破波区时,低频波能流的沿滩增长率进一步变大;当滩顶短波剧烈破碎、破波延续到内破波区时,低频波能流沿滩先增长而后转为衰减,滩后放大率较临界破碎时明显减小。研究结果表明,浅滩顶部水深改变了短波破碎程度,进而影响低频长波的演化过程,浅滩上长波总体增长率随滩顶水深的减小呈现先增大后减小的规律,在短波轻微破碎时最大。     

双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤反射特性的理论与试验研究

双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤具有低反射、结构受力小、适宜较大水深和工程造价低等优点。为明确双消浪室局部开孔沉箱水动力特性的主要影响因素,采用理论分析和物理模型试验相结合的方法,对规则波和不规则波作用下双消浪室局部开孔沉箱防波堤的反射特性进行研究。基于势流理论,建立规则波和不规则波对局部开孔沉箱防波堤作用的三维解析解,采用二次压力损失边界条件考虑沉箱开孔墙对波浪运动的影响,利用周期性边界条件考虑防波堤结构沿长度方向的周期性变化。开展相应规则波和不规则波物理模型试验,验证理论模型的合理性。通过算例分析,研究不同波浪要素和结构参数对防波堤反射特性的影响。研究表明:双消浪室局部开孔沉箱相对消浪室宽度取值为0.08~0.20,沉箱前墙开孔率大于后墙开孔率时,防波堤在较大波浪频率范围内消波效果显著;当前后墙的开孔率相等时,防波堤反射系数的最小值随着开孔率增大而减小。     

Behavior of warm water flowing into a cold ocean

Behavior of warm water flowing into a model ocean with flat bottom filled with cold water is investigated numerically with a three-dimensional level model in a rotating system.The warm water which flows through the southern opening into the ocean is found to progress in two directions. The east front of the warm water progresses along the east coast and reaches the northern opening. And an eastern boundary current associated with this density structure is formed. The west front progresses along the west coast with the speed much less than that of the eastside front. However, the progression of the west front slows down remarkably half way between the southern and northern boundaries due to-effect, and a baroclinic western boundary current system is formed. Unstable waves whose scales are 200–400 km are found in the region of the eastern boundary current and propagate toward the west. These waves seem to be caused by the baroclinic instability.The boundary currents obtained in the present model are considered to represent some characteristics of the Tsushima Current system in the Japan Sea.     

台阶型海脊俘获波的实验研究

基于物理模型实验研究瞬态冲击波在台阶地形上传播过程,揭示由于反射而在海脊上出现的波浪俘获现象。结果表明:在瞬态波产生区域附近,海脊上所测到的先导波即为最大波,其由泄漏至海脊外的深水波绕射至海脊所致。随着传播距离的增加,由于频散效应的影响,先导波逐渐减小,沿台阶近似直线传播的海脊俘获波和在台阶上曲折传播的海脊俘获波逐渐显现。在距离波浪产生较远区域所测的最大波晚于先导波出现,且这些由俘获波所叠加而成的最大波随着传播距离的增加而呈现出更加复杂的波面过程。     

Numerical study of tidal front with varying sharpness in spring and neap tidal cycle

The temporal variation of tidal-front sharpness (i.e., the maximal gradient of sea surface temperature (SST)) in Iyo-Nada, Japan has been investigated using SST obtained by a commercial ferryboat. Tidal-front sharpness varies in time with a period of 15 days. A numerical model approach was also adopted to investigate the temporal variation of frontal sharpness. The numerical model, which contains a restoring term to express the tidal front reconstructed fortnightly by tides, reproduces the tidal front accompanied by growing and/or decaying frontal waves. The amplitude of modeled frontal sharpness agrees well with the observation. The amplitude of sharpness is much smaller than the observed value, unless frontal waves develop along the modeled front. This therefore implies that tidal fronts are destroyed mainly due to growing frontal waves, and are restored fortnightly at spring tides. We quantitatively evaluated the subsurface intrusion of seawater into the stratified region from the mixed region by conducting passive-tracer experiments. We find that the cross-frontal transport with frontal waves is 4.9 times larger than that without frontal waves. In addition, the cross-frontal transport reaches a long distance (about 25 km) because of heton (mushroom)-type eddies developing along the front with frontal waves.     

Effects of internal waves and turbulence on a horizontal aperturesonar

Random variability in the water column will affect the operation of a horizontal aperture sonar. Two sources of variability in shallow water are turbulence and internal waves. In a modeling study, the effects of turbulence and internal waves on a shallow-water imaging system are compared. The operational principles of a large aperture imaging system are first reviewed. A shallow-water internal wave model is developed by modifying the Garrett-Munk model. The internal waves are assumed to dissipate and drive the small-scale turbulence. The two phenomena are predicted to have markedly different effects on a system. Turbulence has short spatial correlation scales whose primary effects will be manifested in the variance of the acoustic phase. By contrast, internal waves will have much larger scattering but also a longer correlation scale. The primary acoustic quantity of interest for internal waves is shown to be the curvature of the phase as observed along the aperture. Properties of shallow-water internal waves are shown to preclude the use of standard acoustic calculations based on the Markov approximation. Using archival environmental data, sample calculations are presented for the site of a planned August 1996 experiment     

Propagation of topographically trapped waves on aβ-plane

Topographically trapped (subinertia) waves that propagate along a coast lying in an arbitrary direction on aβ-plane are studied. It is found that the waves also propagate in the direction normal to the coast within an envelope due to theβ-effect. The dispersion relation is hardly affected by theβ-effect except in a long wavelength or long period range in which generalized Haurwitz waves (Takeda, 1984b) exist. In the long wavelength or long period range, two types of waves exist: topographically trapped type waves and generalized Haurwitz type waves.     

Modulation of short wind waves by a long surface wave: a mechanism for feedback with an air flow

The paper concentrates on the evolution of a spectrum of short wind waves (SW) along the profile of a long surface wave (LW). Short wave spectral variations are considered in the relaxation approximation. The SW spectrum is modulated by the orbital velocities of long waves and by the variations of wind stress along the LW profile. The latter effect occurs due to wind flux perturbations induced by both the long wave proper and variations of the sea surface roughness induced by the SW modulations. To describe this effect, a feedback mechanism is introduces—the growth of energy of short waves results in the larger roughness of the sea surface, thereby contributing to the local wind stress, which facilitates, in turn, the growth of short waves. With moderate and strong winds being involved, this effect (aerodynamic feedback) is shown to be dominant in the short wave spectrum modulation. The mechanism becomes more efficient with intensification of the wind and decreasing of the long waves' frequency. Results of model calculations are in agreement with the known experimental data. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.     

Evaluation of the influence of surface films on short wind waves and the characteristics of the boundary layer of the atmosphere

With the help of a combined model of wind and waves, we study the influence of films of surfactants on the spectrum of short wind waves and the parameters of the lowest layer of the atmosphere. It is shown that the films of surfactants decrease the roughness of the sea surface as a result of suppression of short wind waves, which decreases the coefficient of resistance of the sea surface and the coefficient of turbulent heat exchange. The maximum influence of films on the exchange coefficients is attained forU∼10 m/s. In this case, the relative decrements of the coefficients of resistance and turbulent heat exchange are equal to 15 and 9%, respectively. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev UDC 551.46     

复杂结构形式的海堤波浪力及波浪形态数值模拟

依据雷诺方程和k-ε紊流模型,按流体体积(VOF)法追踪波浪自由表面,采用源造波法,建立数值波浪水槽,数值模拟波浪对复杂结构形式海堤的作用.数值模拟结果与经验公式、物理模型试验结果基本符合,说明所建立的数值波浪水槽合理可行.揭示了不规则波作用下复杂结构形式海堤波浪力分布规律,模拟了堤前波浪形态变化,为探讨合理的海堤结构形式提供了依据.     

Boussinesq modelling of solitary wave and N-wave runup on coast

A total variation diminishing Lax–Wendroff scheme has been applied to numerically solve the Boussinesq-type equations. The runup processes on a vertical wall and on a uniform slope by various waves, including solitary waves, leading-depression N-waves and leading-elevation N-waves, have been investigated using the developed numerical model. The results agree well with the runup laws derived analytically by other researchers for non-breaking waves. The predictions with respect to breaking solitary waves generally follow the empirical runup relationship established from laboratory experiments, although some degree of over-prediction on the runup heights has been manifested. Such an over-prediction can be attributed to the exaggeration of the short waves in the front of the breaking waves. The study revealed that the leading-depression N-wave produced a higher runup than the solitary wave of the same amplitude, whereas the leading-elevation N-wave produced a slightly lower runup than the solitary wave of the same amplitude. For the runup on a vertical wall, this trend becomes prominent when the wave height-to-depth ratio exceeds 0.01. For the runup on a slope, this trend is prominent before the strong wave breaking occurs.     

The influence of seawalls on subaerial beach volumes with receding shorelines

The results summarized herein are based on subaerial beach profiles taken on the Atlantic Ocean at Sandbridge, Virginia (USA). The shoreline has experienced an average, historic recession rate of about 2 m/yr for more than 120 years before seawall construction began in 1978. The purpose of this study is to determine whether or not the 16 walled sections increase the existing erosional trend at adjacent, non-walled beaches. Fifteen years of survey data are employed with 8–9 years of data taken before wall construction peaked in 1989. The main focus of these results is on five full wave years of monthly and post-storm survey data taken at 28 locations (16 walled, 4720 m, 62% and 12 non-walled, 2950 m, 38%) since October 1990. Three time scales (historic, seasonal, storms) and three analysis methods were used to address three questions concerning the effects of seawalls on adjacent beaches.It has been determined that volume erosion rates are not higher in front of seawalls (Question No. 1). However, the seasonal variability of the sand volume in front of walls is generally greater than at non-walled locations. Winter season waves drag more sand offshore in front of walls but also summer swell waves pile more sand up against walls in beach rebuilding.Walled beaches were found to recover about the same time as non-walled beaches for both seasonal transitions (winter to summer) and following erosional storm events (Question No. 2).At a few non-walled locations, the sand volume landward of adjacent walls was found to be eroding at a faster rate after wall construction. At some other non-walled locations, the sand volume landward remained constant or increased in time after nearby walled construction. The evidence for Sandbridge beach as a whole was considered inconclusive for Question No. 3.After wall construction, sand trapped behind the wall is not available for transport to adjacent beaches during and after storm events. The loss of this sand volume is felt to be in the initial stage of detection at Sandbridge. More full years of profile data are needed to confirm and quantify the effect. Sand is also trapped beneath the road (baseline) at non-walled locations. The study is continuing.     

Large-time response of ice cover to a load moving along a frozen channel

Unsteady response of an ice cover in a channel with vertical walls is studied for large times. The ice deflection is caused by a load moving along the frozen channel at a constant speed. The ice cover is modelled as a thin elastic plate clamped to the walls of the channel. The time-dependent problem is solved by using the Fourier transform along the channel and the method of separating variables. In the system moving along the channel together with the load, the large-time deflection of the ice cover consists of steady deflection and standing waves in front and behind the load. The number of waves, their frequencies and wavenumbers depend on the speed of the load and the values of the critical speeds for the channel. The number of the waves and their amplitudes are calculated for a given load and its speed. The maximum stress in the ice as a function of the load speed is estimated.     

Instability caused by the coalescence of two modes of a one-layer coastal current with a surface front

Stability of a one-layer density-driven coastal current with a surface front whose potential vorticity is uniformly zero is examined, and it is shown that such a current can be unstable if the stability condition derived by Paldor (1983) is not satisfied,i.e., the current width,L, is larger than 2/3U/f, wheref is the Coriolis parameter andU is the current velocity at the front. This instability is caused by the coalescence of a frontal trapped and coastal trapped waves. The energetics of this instability and the effect of potential vorticity gradient are also discussed.     

Synergistic effect of extreme climatic events and urbanization on population density of the ghost crab Ocypode quadrata (Fabricius, 1787)

The combined effects of urbanization and extreme climatic events were examined on the ghost crab Ocypode quadrata, a well‐recognized ecological indicator in sandy beaches. The effect of storm waves was assessed before and after these climate events in beaches with different levels of urbanization in the coast of Brazil, Tropical Atlantic Ocean. The number of burrows was used as a metric for the population size of O. quadrata and the number of humans along the beaches as a proxy for the urbanization level. Significant differences were recorded in this species’ population density according to the human pressure. Our core modelling approach showed that the number of O. quadrata burrows was lower after storm waves in urbanized zones, compared to non‐urbanized ones. The interaction between storm waves and urbanization impacted the number of O. quadrata burrows negatively, and suggest that species’ populations are more vulnerable to the combined effects of extreme climatic events and urbanization. Extreme events are predicted to increase in frequency in the next few decades, and may modify or impair ecosystem functioning in sandy beaches by reducing populations of the O. quadrata, an important beach scavenger, which markedly contribute to the flux of energy in coastal trophic webs.     

Geometrical properties of perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters

The experimental results have so far shown that when a wave breaks on a vertical wall with an almost vertical front face at the instant of impact that is called perfect breaking or perfect impact, the greatest impact forces are produced on the wall. Therefore, the configuration of breaking waves is important in the design considerations of coastal structures. The present study is concerned with determining the geometrical properties of oscillatory waves that break perfectly on the vertical wall of composite-type breakwaters. The laboratory tests for perfect breaking waves on composite breakwaters are conducted with base slopes of 1/2, 1/4 and 1/6, and with berm widths of 0.00, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30 and 0.40 m. The shape and the dimensions of waves at the instant of perfect breaking on the wall are determined using a video camera. The experimental results for the geometrical properties of the breakers are presented non-dimensionally. Within the range of present experimental conditions, it is found that the dimensionless breaker crest height, h_b/d_w, and dimensionless breaker height, H_b/d_w, decrease; and, dimensionless breaker depth, d_w/H₀, increases with increasing relative berm width, B/D. The breaker height index, H_b/H₀, is almost unaffected by B/D. The deep-water wave steepness and the base slope of the breakwater do not seem to influence the geometrical properties of the breakers at wall systematically.     

Stationary Rossby waves and shocks on the Sverdrup coordinate

Gyre-scale frontal structures, e.g., the Subtropical Front, have been well documented in the oceans. Although the generation mechanism of such a front remains unclear, it may be ascribed to the steepening of nonlinear planetary waves as discussed by Dewar (1992). To discuss the stationary wave characteristics and their shock formation in a two-layer wind-driven gyre, the present paper introduces a new coordinate, referred to as theSverdrup coordinate here, in which the Sverdrup function is used instead of the longitudinal coordinate, and especially, investigates the possibility of the frontgenesis caused by the Rossby waves emanating from the western boundary region. On theSverdrup coordinate, since the advection by the Sverdrup flow is in the direction normal to that of the Rossby wave propagation, the system becomes much simpler than that on the (x,y)-coordinate, and the solution to this coordinate does not explicitly depend on the distribution of the Ekman pumping, i.e., we can treat cases, in which the Ekman pumping is a function of bothx andy, in a similar way to the case with zonally uniform Ekman pumping.     

Second-Order Analytic Solutions of Nonlinear Interactions of Edge Waves on A Plane Sloping Bottom

Based on the full water-wave equation,a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper.For special case of slope angle β=π/2,this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline.Interactions between two edge waves including progressive,standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed.The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given.The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated,and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived.The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested,that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory.Finally some computation results are demonstrated.     

人工采掘坑影响下珊瑚礁海岸波浪传播变形试验

基于礁坪上高分辨率的波浪测量,通过波浪水槽试验分析了短波、低频长波、平均水位、波形参数和非线性参数的沿礁变化规律,重点探讨礁坪中部存在人工采掘坑对上述波浪传播变形特征的影响,并与无坑的情况进行对比.研究表明:当人工采掘坑存在时,短波波高在坑前和坑内分别增大和减小,在礁后岸滩附近却无显著变化;低频长波波高在坑附近变化不大...     

Second-Oorder Analytic Solutions of Nonlinear Interactions of Edge Waves on A Plane Sloping Bottom

Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a constant plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special case of slope angle b=p/2, this solution can be reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline. Interactions between two edge waves including progressive, standing and partially reflected standing waves were also discussed. The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves were also discussed. The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated, and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and second orders are derived. The boundary conditions for the determining determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested, that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory. Finally some computation results are demonstrated.