华南岬湾海滩冲淤演变特征及其机制分析—以南澳岛前江湾为例

岬湾海滩在华南地区普遍分布,众多海滩面临侵蚀退化问题,对其海滩冲淤演变特征及机制的研究具有重要的现实意义。本文以粤东重要的旅游海岛南澳岛南部的前江湾为研究区,利用滩面调查、遥感影像数据与历史海图和实测水深数据,研究1970—2022 年海滩冲淤特征,并从水动力、沿岸输沙、稳定岸线形态等方面,探讨人类活动对海滩冲淤演变的影响机制。结果表明：前江湾海滩蚀淤演变在东南沿岸码头防波堤海岸工程建设前后呈现不同的空间变化特征,切线岸段前期侵蚀、后期侵蚀加剧,弧形岸段前期淤积、后期侵蚀;人类海岸工程造成的岬角位置变化和沿岸输沙受阻是影响海滩蚀淤演变的主要机制,导致岬湾岸线平面形态变为不稳定状态,区域沉积物的亏损也加剧了海岸失衡;自东向西的沿岸输沙的不均衡对其海岸线演变的空间特征起控制作用。     

珊瑚礁海岸侵蚀的研究方法

珊瑚礁海岸海滩和礁坪是海岸作用是活跃的部分，也是近几十年来与海岸发育，海岸侵蚀联系最密切的部分，这一部分高潮时被淹没，低潮时完全出露或大部分出露，使得在此进行地质填图成为可能，这样的地质图可以提供许多信息，如沉积物粒度分布规律，沉积物来源和搬运方向，海滩岩所指示的古海岸线位置，人类活动特别是海岸工程对沉积物分布的影响以及海岸线的变化过程和趋势，在礁坪上开挖的人工水道内测流，能够了解水流的性质以及是否有足够的速度搬运沉积物，从而了解人工水道对海岸的影响和预测海岸的状态，这些方法也可以用于大陆泥质和砂质第岸侵蚀的研究。     

海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面短期时空变化及沉积动态分析 *

海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。     

海岸冲淤动态的理论分析：物质收支、剖面形态、岸线进退

海岸线动态经常被作为海岸冲淤的判据,然而,由于未能涵盖物质收支和海岸剖面形态的双重因素影响,此判据具有局限性。基于沉积物收支方程性质和海滩-潮滩剖面形态的理论分析,认为将物质收支与岸线进退速率或海岸剖面形态相结合,才能准确判别海岸冲淤状态。沉积物收支方程含有沉积体系规模、冲淤强度、系统生长极限等信息;海滩剖面形态决定于物质粒径、波能大小,波能耗散最小原理决定了海滩均衡剖面的存在性,而潮滩剖面形态决定于沉积物供给、粒径组成和潮汐动力。根据沉积物收支方程和海岸剖面理论,融合极端事件（风暴等）和海面变化因素,可获取砂质海岸（以海滩为代表）、泥质海岸（以潮滩为代表）各种侵蚀现象的发生机制、速率和时间尺度信息,海岸线变化速率从低（＜100 m/a）到高（101～102 m/a）有数量级的差异,冲淤过程的时间尺度包括10−2 a（风暴事件）到103 a（海面变化）的范围。根据沉积物收支和海岸线进退的不同组合,可将海滩、潮滩海岸冲淤动态分为4类,其中第一类为堆积海岸,其余三类为侵蚀海岸,与不同的地貌演化方向和时间尺度相联系。高强度、长时间持续侵蚀主要与物质供给中断和海面上升相关,同时也有人为因素影响。     

近期辽东湾西侧砂质海滩冲淤特征北大核心CSCD

2013—2014年,在辽东湾六股河口两侧开展了海滩地形及海岸侵蚀的现场调查,于兴城至绥中沿海布设6处调查岸段及17条断面。结果表明,研究海滩地貌主要组成部分包括反射型高潮滩-滩坎-消散型低潮滩,其中低潮滩多发育有近岸沙坝和水下沙坝。绥中南江屯、皮家屯及兴城新立屯海滩侵蚀明显,多数海滩持续侵蚀,调查期内最大平均下蚀速率达53.2cm/a。分析发现,海滩地形及断面蚀淤量有较明显的季节或区域差异。海滩冬季近岸沙坝消失、水下沙坝离岸距离小于夏季。六股河口南侧夏季海滩断面侵蚀量增加、淤积量减少,而六股河口北侧相反。研究认为,岸线自然形态差异及其造成的沿岸输沙差异是导致不同岸段蚀淤差异的主要自然原因。海岸封闭性建筑物(尤其是突堤)影响了海滩局部断面蚀淤变化。海滩地貌及蚀淤的季节或区域变化的主要原因为沿岸波浪特征等因素的季节性和区域性差异。     

近期辽东湾西侧砂质海滩冲淤特征

2013-2014年,在辽东湾六股河口两侧开展了海滩地形及海岸侵蚀的现场调查,于兴城至绥中沿海布设6处调查岸段及17条断面。结果表明,研究海滩地貌主要组成部分包括反射型高潮滩-滩坎-消散型低潮滩,其中低潮滩多发育有近岸沙坝和水下沙坝。绥中南江屯、皮家屯及兴城新立屯海滩侵蚀明显,多数海滩持续侵蚀,调查期内最大平均下蚀速率达53.2 cm/a。分析发现,海滩地形及断面蚀淤量有较明显的季节或区域差异。海滩冬季近岸沙坝消失、水下沙坝离岸距离小于夏季。六股河口南侧夏季海滩断面侵蚀量增加、淤积量减少,而六股河口北侧相反。研究认为,岸线自然形态差异及其造成的沿岸输沙差异是导致不同岸段蚀淤差异的主要自然原因。海岸封闭性建筑物(尤其是突堤)影响了海滩局部断面蚀淤变化。海滩地貌及蚀淤的季节或区域变化的主要原因为沿岸波浪特征等因素的季节性和区域性差异。     

山东半岛砂质海滩动力地貌演化特征

为探讨山东半岛砂质海滩的动力地貌学特征,利用波浪和潮汐资料计算了山东半岛浪潮作用指数K和波浪-沉积物参数(Dean参数(Ω)),并进行了地貌类型划分;结合2012~2015年对山东半岛不同地理岸段砂质海岸地形地貌、表层沉积物进行的7次监测,对海滩监测剖面地形高程和表层沉积物粒度监测数据进行了研究,结果表明:山东半岛北部烟台多处海滩为消散型,局部过渡性;威海东侧和山东半岛南部海滩属于过渡型或反射型;不同类型沙滩季节变化差别明显,消散型海滩夏季容易形成沿岸沙坝,冬季海滩沙坝明显受到侵蚀;而过渡型或反射型海滩变化趋势相反,冬季靠近高潮线的部位淤积,形成滩肩,夏季受到侵蚀消失。山东半岛北部海滩粒径较粗,并呈现逐年变粗的趋势,而山东半岛南部粒径较细且逐年变细;季节变化受到波浪条件和季节差异的控制,招远、龙口、威海、日照地区较牟平、海阳、青岛等平直岸段冬季沉积物比夏季粗。山东半岛砂质海滩的地貌形态受海岸的地理位置、海洋动力条件、岸线走向及沙源供给等多种沉积环境因素的影响,人类活动的影响可在短期内对海滩造成剧烈变化,引起海岸严重侵蚀。     

漠阳江入海口东侧海岸侵蚀现状及成因分析

对漠阳江入海口东侧海岸的侵蚀情况进行了详细的野外调查,在2年的调查时间内对监测岸段的海岸线位置及海滩地形开展了5次重复测量。各次测量结果的对比表明,漠阳江入海口东侧海岸遭受了严重的侵蚀,岸线平均后退速率达15m.a 1;海滩地形剖面的动态变化则显示海岸侵蚀和淤积情况随季节而改变,在2008年台风"黑格比"登陆后,研究区岸线大幅后退,岸滩地形发生了深刻变化。通过对研究区海岸侵蚀特点的分析,认为砂质海岸的脆弱性和水动力作用是该区海岸侵蚀的基本条件,风暴潮是造成该区海岸严重侵蚀的重要因素;另外,人类活动也加剧了研究区的海岸侵蚀。     

地下水对浅滩沉积物搬运及海滩剖面变化影响的模拟分析

1　前言在浅滩区 ,沉积物搬运过程对海滩地貌及海岸线变迁有相当重要的意义。其最终的结果是 ,沉积物的净搬运方向决定了海滩现在所处的状态 ,侵蚀状态、淤积状态还是处于平衡状态(Hughes等 ,1 997)。潮间浅滩波浪的往复运动 (即向岸运动和离岸运动 )为沉积物的横向搬运提供了动力。波浪向岸运动时 ,沉积物也向海岸移动 ;反之 ,波浪离岸运动时 ,沉积物也离岸移动。在整个过程中 ,水动力条件相当复杂 ,如作用在海底面上的破碎波或非破碎波的形变 (Guza和Thorn ton,1 982 ;Kobayashi等 ,1 987)。同时 ,波浪运动也与海滩地下水相互作用。在波…     

热带气旋前进方向两侧海滩风暴效应差异研究--以海滩对0307号台风"伊布都"的响应为例

在0307号台风“伊布都”(Imbudo)袭击华南沿海前后,对相距约300km的高栏岛飞沙湾(位于气旋前进方向右侧)和水东港下大海(位于气旋前进方向左侧)的固定海滩剖面地形及滩面沉积物进行了对比调查。调查结果表明,右侧海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击发生剧烈变化：后滨陆侧堆积,后滨向海侧及前滨滩面侵蚀(单宽侵蚀量达55m^3／m,平均海面(MSL)位置蚀退13m,岸线位置蚀退5m),以致剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变,表现出了海滩对台风做出快速响应;而左侧海滩剖面地形基本保持原状,虽也略呈侵蚀,但冲淤变化不大,表现为对台风做出迟缓响应。同时,从动力、滨海输沙、滩面沉积物变化和海岸地貌等方面对两侧海滩明显差异的风暴效应的机制进行了探讨。     

近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟

针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。     

Numerical modelling of sand beach evolution around coastal structures

I~crIOWIn the coastal area, especially at the sandy seashore, wave and nearshore current are the major factors which affect sediment transPOrt and the motyhChdynamics.The numerical models of predicting the beach evolution can be classified intO the medi~term and long-term models according to their space and time scales (De Briend et al., 1993;Watanabe, 1990; Watanabe et al., 1986; Tao, 1996). In the medium-term model the effects ofwave, nearshore current and sediment transport are conside…     

广西万尾岛金滩沿岸输沙计算与分析

依据CERC公式,年内代表浪向作用下,广西万尾岛金滩平直岸滩中部泥沙分别向东西两侧净输沙,意味着金滩中部有淘刷趋势而两端有淤积趋势,而实际上岸滩中部滩面长年基本稳定、未有明显侵蚀现象。分析认为公式计算成果反映的输沙特征定性仍然是正确的,岸滩能够维持稳定是因为还存在自海向岸的横向输沙补给沙源。当岸滩并非平直且足够长时,应完整分析纵、横向输沙才能更为合理地反映岸滩泥沙运动特征。     

Sand transport under combined current and wave conditions: A semi-unsteady,practical model

For the general purposes of morphodynamic computations in coastal zones, simple formula-based models are usually employed to evaluate sediment transport. Sediment transport rates are computed as a function of the bottom shear stress or the near bed flow velocity and it is generally assumed that the sediment particles react immediately to changes in flow conditions. It has been recognized, through recent laboratory experiments in both rippled and plane bed sheet flow conditions that sediment reacts to the flow in a complex manner, involving non-steady processes resulting from memory and settling/entrainment delay effects. These processes may be important in the cross-shore direction, where sediment transport is mainly caused by the oscillatory motions induced by surface short gravity waves.The aim of the present work is to develop a semi-unsteady, practical model, to predict the total (bed load and suspended load) sediment transport rates in wave or combined wave-current flow conditions that are characteristic of the coastal zone. The unsteady effects are reproduced indirectly by taking into account the delayed settling of sediment particles. The net sediment transport rates are computed from the total bottom shear stress and the model takes into account the velocity and acceleration asymmetries of the waves as they propagate towards the shore.A comparison has been carried out between the computed net sediment transport rates with a large data set of experimental results for different flow conditions (wave-current flows, purely oscillatory flow, skewed waves and steady currents) in different regimes (plane bed and rippled bed) with fine, medium and coarse uniform sand. The numerical results obtained are reasonably accurate within a factor of 2. Based on this analysis, the limits and validity of the present formulation are discussed.     

福建宁德半岛沿岸泥沙运动和沉积速率研究

利用风要素计算福建宁德半岛沿岸输沙率.半岛南侧各岸段的净输沙率较小,岸滩基本处于冲淤动态平衡状态.半岛东北侧年净输沙率小于西南侧,半岛东北侧每年约有13万m~3量级的沿岸泥沙输往晴川湾顶,西南侧每年约有26万m~3量级的沿岸泥沙输往文渡湾顶.半岛及其附近海底表层和柱状沉积物粒度以及~(210)Pb沉积速率测定结果可知:海底表层沉积物单一,以细颗粒的粘土质粉砂为主,沉积速率在0.33～2.0cm/a之间,比类似海湾沉积速率较大,说明半岛沿岸和海底沉积速率分布不均.     

Investigation of the effects of offshore breakwater parameters on sediment accumulation

Littoral sediment transport is the main reason for coastal erosion and accretion. Therefore, various types of structures are used in shore protection and littoral sediment trapping studies. Offshore breakwaters are one of these structures. Construction of offshore breakwaters is one of the main countermeasures against beach erosion. In this paper, offshore protection process is studied on the effect of offshore breakwater parameters (length, distance and gap), wave parameters (height, period and angle) and on sediment accumulation ratio, one researched in a physical model. In addition to the experimental studies, numerical model in which the formulae of the sediment discharge (i.e. the formulae of CERC and Kamphuis), was used was developed and employed. The results of the experimental and numerical studies were compared with each other.     

The Sediment Source and Transport Trends around the Abandoned Yellow River Delta,China

Sediment source and transport trends are influenced by various hydrodynamic factors, and thus play important roles in sedimentary evolution and coastal stability. To examine sediment transport trends around the abandoned Yellow River delta promontory and its erosion mechanism, we employ empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis to study sedimentary characteristics and transport trends of the abandoned Yellow River delta in northern Jiangsu Province, China. The results showed that: (1) the main sediment source in the abandoned Yellow River delta is the submarine coastal slope and both sides of the abandoned Yellow River Delta; (2) the main hydrodynamics controlling sediment transport is the current that runs along the shore, coupled with waves, especially southward currents; (3) the sediment of the study area was redistributed under hydrodynamics; coarse sediments were eroded and broadly transported to the south. Therefore, it is concluded that the sediment sources and transport have important influence on coastal evolution: the sediment source area shows mass loss of deposits and erosion; deposits in the submarine coastal slope provide the source and were continuously eroded to provide materials to other places as a sediment source.     

Beach response to wave energy converter farms acting as coastal defence

One of the greatest challenges of coastal engineering today is the need for coastal protection in the changing climate scenario. Places which are nowadays protected will demand upgraded defences and more sites will require security; in all cases a large amount of resources will be needed to ensure beach maintenance and coastal safety. This may be an opportunity for the multi-purpose use of Wave Energy Converters (WECs) if the foreseen increase of energy demand in coastal areas is also considered. In this paper a group of WECs based on different operating concepts is numerically tested in front of two beaches, i.e. the Bay of Santander in Spain and Las Glorias beach in Mexico, representing two different case studies where the long-shore sediment transport is dominant. The hydrodynamics induced by these devices is represented by means of a 2D elliptic modified mild-slope model that is calibrated against new experimental results. The wave field is then used as input for the analytical calculation of the long-shore sediment transport and the coastline trend is estimated by applying the continuity of sediment equation. The characteristics of the selected numerical models give this work a first approach level. All the devices were found to produce a positive trend (accretion) at least in small areas. Recommendations are given to facilitate the selection of the device and the design of the farm layout for shore protection purpose.     

舟山岛马岙岸段海岸演变与水下岸坡冲淤动态

利用不同年份的水深地形资料进行冲淤计算,结合实测水文泥沙、现场岸滩沉积地貌观察、新老海堤分布位置及以往浅地层探测和考古等资料综合分析发现,岸滩地貌形态从大约距今7 000 a前的一个古基岩港湾经受细颗粒泥沙长期不断地充填、淤积转化为近乎平直的岸段.在自然和人类活动的共同作用下,近370 a来海岸线以5.3 m/a的速度向海推移,潮滩以0.25 cm/a的速率沉积.近40余年来水下岸坡平均冲淤速率为-3.8~2.4 cm/a,横向冲淤调整有类似砂质海岸剖面塑造的特性,泥沙经受了在横向剖面"上部微淤、下部微冲"和纵向总体"东侧微冲、中西部微淤"的交替重复调整过程,目前朝着"上部微淤、下部微冲"的均衡剖面调整方向发展.     

Models of near-bed dynamics and sediment movement at the Iberian margin

A three dimensional time-dependent baroclinic hydrodynamic model, including sediment transport and incorporating a turbulence energy sub-model, is used in cross sectional form to examine sediment movement at the shelf edge off North West Iberia at 42°40.5’N where measurements were made as part of the OMEX-II programme. These calculations are complemented by a simpler, in essence time-independent model, which is used to examine the sensitivity of the sediment distribution over the slope (from a shelf-break source) to changes in the specified values of horizontal and vertical diffusion coefficients. The philosophy of the paper is to use idealized tidal, wind and wind wave forcing to examine changes in sediment distribution resulting from these processes. Calculations with the time-dependent and steady state models give insight into both the role of events and long-term effects. The steady state model focuses on the off-shelf region, whilst the time-dependent model considers on-shelf events.Tidal calculations showed that for the stratification used here the internal tide in the OMEX region was primarily confined to the shelf edge and ocean. A mean on-shelf sediment transport in the surface layer and off-shelf transport at the bed was found. Across-shelf circulations produced by up-welling/down-welling favourable winds gave rise to on-shelf/off-shelf currents in the bottom boundary layer with an opposite flow in the surface layer. In the case of an up-welling favourable wind, sediment suspension was at a maximum in the near coastal region, with sediment being advected off shore in the surface layer. With a down-welling favourable wind, surface sediment was advected towards the shore, but there was offshore transport at the bed. Near the shelf edge any upwelling flow had the tendency to return this sediment to the surface layer from whence it was transported on-shore. So in essence the sediment was trapped within an on-shelf circulation cell. Wind waves effects increased the total bed stress and hence the sediment concentration and its transport, although its pattern was determined by tidal and wind forcing.The time independent model with increased/decreased lateral diffusivity gave an enhanced/reduced horizontal sediment distribution for a given settling velocity. As the settling velocity increases, the down-slope movement of sediment is increased, with a reduction in the thickness of the near-bed sediment layer, but with little change in its horizontal extent.