Unified modeling guidance based on a sedimentation parameter for beach changes

Review of four available proposals for designing coastal movable-bed models demonstrates that each suggested model-scaling law contradicts all the others. Accurate laboratory models providing the separate empirical bases, however, all appear fairly consistent with the new design guidance developed here. This formal development considers sediment excursions under wave action by means of a parameter including bed slope and the threshold of sediment movement. The consequent relationship for sedimentation similitude between model and prototype indicates that appropriate model sediment and horizontal scale depend on the selected vertical scale along with wave period and prototype sand characteristics. Explicit forms derived from the general design guidance recover two expressions resembling those previously reported by E.K. Noda (1972) and by P. Vellinga (1982); the route towards Noda's result indicates that guidance is not appropriate for small models of large situations, but the present development yields an independent basis and a needed refinement for Vellinga's empirical results. Considerations of sedimentation similitude are also shown to be supported by successful new laboratory models using sand profiles developed in a large wave tank as prototypes. Spatial distortion seems to be the advisable strategy for small models but proper distortion is rather modest with prototype materials, according to present results.     

A New Empirical Formula for the Aerodynamic Roughness of Water Surface Waves

A new empirical formula for the aerodynamic roughness of water surface waves has been derived from laboratory experimental results using dimensional analysis. The formula has different forms according to wind speed: at moderate wind speeds the formula is a function of the friction velocity of wind, the surface tension, the water density, the kinematic viscosity of water and the acceleration of gravity; at strong winds the formula is expressed by the Charnock relation. The aerodynamic roughness does not depend on such wave state parameters as the spectral peak frequency or the steepness of waves, unlike almost all parameterizations that have been proposed to date. The drag coefficient at moderate winds depends on the surface tension of water and the water temperature through the temperature dependence of the kinematic viscosity of water.     

A study on chemical forms of heavy metals in the sediments of Zhujiang River and its estuary

The five chemical bound forms of Fe, Al and Mn in sediments in the main channel of the Zhujiang River.and its estuary, namely, exchangeable, carbonic, oxidative, organic and residual (in crystal) forms, were determined. The method of sequential extraction was used for separating the five bound forms.The main chemical form of the three elements in the sediments of the Zhujiang River and its estuarine zone is the residual one. The exchangeable form exists only in a small fraction.Correlationships between the concentration of a certain form of heavy metals and Eh. pH and salinity were discussed. The principles of geochemistry are used to explain the mechanism of heavy metal transport in the river.It was also found that the distribution rule of the chemical forms of Fe, Al and Mn in sediments in the lower reaches of the Zhujiang River was similar to the one in the lower reaches of the Yamaska River.     

Vertical zonation and aggregated distribution of the Manila clam on subtidal sand flats in a coastal brackish lagoon along the Sea of Japan

The Manila clam, Ruditapes philippinarum, has maintained small‐sized populations in a semi‐enclosed brackish lake along the Sea of Japan, the Honjo area of Lake Nakaumi, although the environment and biota of this area have changed dramatically due to a large‐scale reclamation project. There should be underlying processes that enable the restoration of this species from small‐sized populations, such as the existence of source (i.e. reproductive) populations in other areas and depth zones of the lake. However, there has been no robust, properly designed evaluation of the distribution of the Manila clam in the subtidal sand flats. In order to elucidate the possible mechanisms that allow for the persistence of populations of the Manila clam, we examined the spatiotemporal and vertical variation in distributions of 0‐age clams in the subtidal zone of sand flats. Seasonal effects on population variations showed erratic changes among depth zones without a decreasing trend along the depth gradient. Further, many local populations became extinct even in the shallower zones due to seasonal (summer) hypoxia at deeper zones and hypoxia by the accumulation of key benthic species (Asian mussel and decaying macroalgae) in mats at shallower zones. A few surviving local populations were stable with a spatial‐fragmental (patchy) distribution, associated with fragmented accumulations of Asian mussels and macroalgae. Efforts to maintain stable populations and to restore this species in the subtidal area may depend on these small, restricted, patchy local populations. These findings suggest that high fertility and productivity of the Manila clam as well as patchy distribution of small populations may contribute to the maintenance of the population and the avoidance of extinction (by spatially diffusing the risk of extinction) in harsh environments resulting from the reclamation project.     

Modelling ripple development under non-uniform flow and sediment supply-limited conditions in a laboratory flume

Results are reported herein of an open channel flow laboratory based study of the development of ripples on a fine silica sand bed, and under non-uniform turbulent subcritical flow conditions. The hydraulic model used included a diverging channel, which resulted in a variation of hydraulic and sediment transport parameters along the channel. Sediment supply limitation occurred during experimentation, impacting bed form development. The overall aim of this study was to improve the understanding and modelling capability of the development of bed forms under limited sediment supply and non-uniform flow conditions. In particular, the applicability of an existing empirical model capable of predicting ripple development was tested for the conditions of this study, using measured ripple dimensions. The ripple height and length results were extracted from detailed bed profile records, obtained using an acoustic Doppler probe traversed longitudinally over the sediment bed, at various experimentation time intervals. It was found that the non-uniform flow conditions affected the development rate of the bed forms, while sediment supply limitation impacted their steady state dimensions. The measured steady state ripple dimensions were lower, on average, than the corresponding equilibrium dimensions predicted using existing empirical equations. Non-uniform flow also caused the simultaneous occurrence of bed forms at different stages of development along the hydraulic model, where 3D and 2D ripples and incipient bed forms were recorded. Such a scenario can occur in estuarine and coastal flows, due to changing hydraulic conditions and/or a limitation of sediment supply. The ripple development model tested was verified for the conditions of this study, with its accuracy being shown to depend on an accurate determination of steady state parameters.     

Experimental research on the statistical characteristics of radar signal spikes at small grazing angles

The results of research into the characteristics of spikes in a radar signal scattered by the sea surface at small grazing angles and horizontal polarization of radiation are reported. Studies were carried out at wind speeds of 4.4–10.3 m s^–1. It is shown that the experimental distribution of the amplitudes of the radar signal spikes is described well by an exponential function. The distribution of the amplitudes of spikes, normalized to their average value for the measurement cycle, is of universal character. It does not depend on the observational conditions. The relationship between the average level of signal and the wind speed agrees with the results of computation on the model suggested.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.     

Pattern of phosphorus forms in a Mediterranean shallow estuary: Effects of flooding events

Floods are responsible for the variation in the concentration of different phosphorus forms contained in the sediment of a small shallow estuary (Palmones River). The maximum differences were observed in the middle estuary, while other stations, placed in the inner and outer parts, showed a less sensitive response. The apatite forms (AIP) are the major ones. Noticeable changes in the concentration of different phosphorus forms are related with fine grain size sediment. In spite of different responses obtained along the estuary, the results reveal the possibility of using phosphorus concentration as a flood event index, discarding the use of phosphorus speciation for the same purpose.     

Latitudinal trends in morphological characteristics of <Emphasis Type="Italic">Neogloboquadrina pachyderma</Emphasis> (Ehrenberg) along a north–south transect in the south-western Indian Ocean

A total of 25 surficial sediment samples (Peterson grab, gravity and piston cores), collected during the Pilot Expedition to Southern Ocean (PESO) 2004 cruises 199C and 200 onboard the ORV Sagar Kanya along a N–S transect between 9.69°N and 55.01°S, and 80 and 40°E in the Indian Ocean sector of the Southern Ocean (SW Indian Ocean), have been investigated for various morphological features—test size, mean proloculus size and coiling direction (dextral/sinistral forms)—of the planktic indicator species Neogloboquadrina pachyderma (Ehrenberg). The results show that the coiling directions co-vary with temperature and salinity, the abundances of sinistrally coiled forms increasing towards higher latitudes (south of 40°S), whereas dextrally coiled forms show a reverse trend. Similarly, overall test and proloculus sizes depend largely on the physicochemical properties (salinity, temperature, nutrients, calcium saturation) of the ambient water masses. These observations suggest that, particularly at the boundaries between different water masses, variations in morphological features of N. pachyderma can meaningfully be used to reconstruct paleoceanographic conditions from Indian Ocean sediments.     

Investigations on the reflection behaviour of a slotted seawall

Based on the linear wave theory and the eigenfunction expansion method, the interaction between waves and a slotted seawall is studied analytically as well as experimentally. The analytical investigations show that the reflection characteristics of a slotted seawall depend mainly on the porosity of the slotted plate and the incident wave height. It is found that the reflection coefficient reaches its minimum value as the chamber width is about a quarter of the incident wavelength. The reflection behaviour becomes optimal when the porosity is moderate (about 0.2 in the present study). The immersed depth has some effect on the reflection coefficient of the seawall structure, but the improvement is small when the immersed depth is larger than the half of the water depth. A series of physical model experiments are carried out to examine the analytical results. Comparisons between the analytical and experimental results of reflection coefficients are made for some comparable cases and show good agreement provided certain parameters of this model are suitably chosen. This demonstrates that the analytical model is able to account adequately for energy dissipation by the slotted plate and can provide instruction for the design of such seawalls.     

An integral description of the propagation of steady-state perturbations of the heavy liquid surface

The system of equations of motion describing the gravity wave propagation in a perfect heavy liquid layer is transformed into a new integral equation for the free surface elevations. In the limit cases, this integral equation describes the linear and nonlinear periodic waves as well as the known types of solitary waves. In this case a dispersion equation arises because perturbations of the second and higher orders of smallness are neglected. The integral equation allows for the propagation of invariable surface perturbations of arbitrary forms if their spatial spectrum is concentrated near small wave numbers (compared to the inverse wave amplitude). Several examples of solutions are presented.     

Earthquake activity in the Southern Vanuatu arc recorded by the Texas digital OBS

We have reconfigured the Texas digital ocean bottom seismograph (OBS) to operate in a triggered mode and record regional earthquake signals. This paper reports the results of a deployment program designed to test these digital OBS, by moni toring earthquake activity in and near the trench in southern Vanuatu (formerly, the New Hebrides). We successfully recorded hundreds of earthquakes, including 133 located regional earth quakes recorded by three or more stations. We also report J-B residuals for 21 earthquakes reported and located by the ISC. Fourier analysis of seismograms from regional earthquakes suggest that the frequencies of spectral peaks at any station were nearly the same for large, small, nearby, and distant events. However, we obtained very disparate frequencies when we analyzed seismograms for the same earthquake recorded at different stations. The most plausible interpretation is that spectral peaks do not depend on the characteristics of the earthquake source, but instead on site characteristics, or, more specifically, on the coupling of the instrument to the seafloor. To record reliable spectral data, we need to overcome this problem.     

Oblique Wave Scattering by An Undulating Porous Bottom in A Two-Layer Ice-Covered Fluid

The present study analyzes the reflection and transmission phenomenon of water-waves in a two-layer ice-covered system. The upper layer is covered by an ice-sheet, whereas the bottom of the lower layer is undulated and permeable. By using regular perturbation analysis and Fourier transform technique, the problem is solved and the first order reflection and transmission coefficients are determined. It is found that these coefficients depend on the shape as well as the permeability of the undulating bottom. Therefore, from the practical viewpoint, an undulating bottom topography is considered to determine all the aforesaid coefficients. The role of various system parameters, such as porosity, angle of incidence and ice parameters, are discussed to analyze the transformation of incident water wave energy from one layer to another layer. The outcomes are demonstrated in graphical forms.     

风浪周期分布与谱宽度的关系

本文通过分析实验室风浪周期分布,发现风浪周期累积概率分布曲线低于Longuet-Higgins理论结果,在小概率周期区域实验结果与理论结果的差异明显。对实验结果进一步分析发现,在谱不是很窄时,在小概率处风浪周期累积概率随谱宽度的增大而降低,这与窄谱假定下的理论结果相反,Longuet-Higgins理论结果在小概率处不便于描述周期分布随谱宽度的变化。根据实验结果提出风浪周期的Weibull分布经验公式,Weibull分布中的参数依赖于谱宽度。     

Ten guiding principles for the delineation of priority habitat for endangered small cetaceans

The adoption of endangered species laws in various nations has intensified efforts to better understand, and protect, at-risk species or populations, and their habitats. In many countries, delineating a portion of a species' habitat as particularly worthy of protection has become a mantra of these laws. Unfortunately, the laws themselves often provide scientists and managers with few, if any, guidelines for how to define such habitat. Conservationists and scientists may view protecting part of the habitat of an endangered species as an ineffectual compromise, while managers may be under pressure to allow a range of human activities within the species' habitat. In the case of small cetaceans, establishing boundaries for such areas can also be complicated by their mobility, the fluid nature of their environment, and the often ephemeral nature of their habitat features. The convergence of multiple human impacts in coastal waters around the world is impacting many small cetaceans (and other species) that rely on these areas for feeding, reproducing, and resting. The ten guiding principles presented here provide a means to characterize the habitat needs of small, at-risk cetaceans, and serve as a basis for the delineation of ‘priority habitat’ boundaries. This conceptual approach should facilitate a constructive discourse between scientists and managers engaged in efforts to recover endangered species. The degree to which the recovery of an at-risk species can be reconciled with sustainable economic activity will depend in part on how well these principles are incorporated into the delineation of priority habitat.     

Distribution and quality of plaice (Pleuronectes platessa) nursery grounds on the Swedish west coast

Plaice (Pleuronectes platessa) has spatially restricted nursery grounds located in shallow soft bottom areas, where the nursery areas only make up a small fraction of the species distribution range. The importance of different coastal areas for recruitment is expected to depend on the quality and size of the nursery grounds. This paper describes the geographical extension of plaice nursery grounds at a regional level along the Swedish west coast. Densities of juvenile plaice were used as the response variable of habitat quality and were compiled based on records from autumn sampling in the various regions. Different aspects of nursery ground quality were related to the density of 0-group plaice, to evaluate the contribution of different factors to the geographical pattern observed. Larval supply was found to be the most important component of nursery quality showing a close relationship with the density of juvenile plaice on a regional scale. The relative contribution of plaice recruits from Swedish nursery grounds to the Skagerrak/Kattegat stock was evaluated using historical data. Swedish nursery grounds were estimated to contribute 77% of the recruits to the adult stock in the area.     

Dependence of Mean Sea Surfaces from Altimeter Data on the Reference Model Used

A mean sea surface model is used as the frame of reference in processing altimeter data. This article focuses on ascertaining the extent to which results depend on the different mean sea surface models used. In particular, we have analyzed the results from the OSU95MSS and the CLS_SHOMv.98.2 models in an area in the North Atlantic Ocean comprising the Canary and Azores Islands. Special attention has been paid to data editing and several criteria were proposed. The amount of detected data is quite small because we used a well corrected data set. However, it was enough to show important relations between the applied criteria and the kind of area. Therefore we analyzed the best way to apply these criteria according to the areas where the points have been found. Singular areas related to several factors have been detected by all the suggested criteria. In particular, rough sea bottom features, dynamic circulation, and amphidromic points of the tidal waves, among others. As a result of this analysis, we have not considered it appropriate to remove all the detected points. Two time-averaged and corrected mean sea surfaces were determined in the test area.     

Dependence of Mean Sea Surfaces from Altimeter Data on the Reference Model Used

A mean sea surface model is used as the frame of reference in processing altimeter data. This article focuses on ascertaining the extent to which results depend on the different mean sea surface models used. In particular, we have analyzed the results from the OSU95MSS and the CLS_SHOMv.98.2 models in an area in the North Atlantic Ocean comprising the Canary and Azores Islands. Special attention has been paid to data editing and several criteria were proposed. The amount of detected data is quite small because we used a well corrected data set. However, it was enough to show important relations between the applied criteria and the kind of area. Therefore we analyzed the best way to apply these criteria according to the areas where the points have been found. Singular areas related to several factors have been detected by all the suggested criteria. In particular, rough sea bottom features, dynamic circulation, and amphidromic points of the tidal waves, among others. As a result of this analysis, we have not considered it appropriate to remove all the detected points. Two time-averaged and corrected mean sea surfaces were determined in the test area.     

The nitrogen cycle of an East Coast, U.K. saltmarsh: II. Nitrogen fixation, nitrification, denitrification, tidal exchange

Measurements of nitrogen fixation (acetylene reduction) showed greatest rates in the saltmarsh pans with a benthic layer of cyanobacteria present. The smallest amount of nitrogen fixation occurred on the marsh surface where a Puccinellia maritima/Halimione portulacoides plant association shaded the underlying sediment. Phototrophic nitrogen fixation was always greater than dark, chemotrophic, bacterial fixation.Only a small proportion of the total amount of ammonium, which was formed during detrital breakdown, was nitrified to nitrate. Although there is a high capacity for bacterial nitrate reduction in these sediments, the process is limited by low nitrate availability and most nitrate upon reduction is converted to ammonium rather than being denitrified to gaseous products. Denitrification does not, therefore, result in any great loss of nitrogen from the saltmarsh.There was little net import or export of nitrogen on an annual basis, although nitrate and organic-N in small particulate material was removed from tidal water by the marsh, and there was net annual export of ammonium, dissolved organic-N and organic-N in large particulate material. Losses of nitrogen by the small net tidal export and by denitrification were approximately balanced by nitrogen fixation. It was concluded that the nitrogen cycle of the Colne Point saltmarsh was balanced on an annual basis, with most nitrogen being recycled within the marsh. The saltmarsh did not apparently act as a net source of nitrogen for the adjacent estuary, although it may act as an important processor of nitrogen, removing some forms of nitrogen such as nitrate from tidal water while exporting other forms of nitrogen such as dissolved organic-N.     

Dispersion of bauxitic red mud in the Gulf of Corinth, Greece

Bauxitic red-mud slurry, discharged by an aluminium processing factory on the shelf of the Gulf of Corinth, Greece, is used as a tracer to examine sediment transport and dispersion processes in a tectonically active deep basin.

The Gulf of Corinth is a silled elongate basin with a maximum depth of 860 m; it is characterised by high seismicity. The red mud is discharged through a pipeline at a depth of 100 m, where it forms an extensive deposit.

Grab sampling has shown that the red mud extends over the slope and the abyssal plain up to a distance of 17 km from the mouth of the pipeline. It forms small scattered sheet-like deposits of up to 3 cm in thickness. The structures observed in the scattered patches of the red mud, which in some places are overlain by a thin veneer of grey/olive green (natural) sediments, suggest that the red mud is transported from the shelf to the abyssal plain by gravitative sediment flows. The flows are triggered by earthquakes.

Granulometric and geochemical analyses of the red-mud samples show that the red mud, during its transport from the shelf to the abyssal plain, is subjected to mixing with the surrounding sediments. A different mixing ratio is determined, however, by reference to the various trace metals (Fe, Ni, Co, Pb).