Comparison of time-dependent extended mild-slope equations for random waves

The extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [Suh, K.D., Lee, C., Park, W.S., 1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Eng., 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [Lee, C., Kim, G., Suh, K.D., 2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Eng., 48, 277–287] are compared analytically and numerically to determine their applicability to random wave transformation. The geometric optics approach is used to compare the two models analytically. In the model of Suh et al., the wave number of the component wave with a local angular frequency ω is approximated with an accuracy of O(ω − ω¯) at a constant water depth, where ω¯ is the carrier frequency of random waves. In the model of Suh et al., however, the diffraction effects and higher-order bottom effects are considered only for monochromatic waves, and the shoaling coefficient of random waves is not accurately approximated. This inaccuracy arises because the model of Suh et al. was derived for regular waves. In the model of Lee et al., all the parameters of random waves such as wave number, shoaling coefficient, diffraction effects, and higher-order bottom effects are approximated with an accuracy of O(ω − ω¯). This approximation is because the model of Lee et al. was developed using the Taylor series expansion technique for random waves. The result of dispersion relation analysis suggests the use of the peak and weighted-average frequencies as a carrier frequency for Suh et al. and Lee et al. models, respectively. All the analytical results are verified by numerical experiments of shoaling of random waves over a slightly inclined bed and diffraction of random waves through a breakwater gap on a flat bottom.     

Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.     

Second-order theory for coupling 2D numerical and physical wave tanks: Derivation,evaluation and experimental validation

A full second-order theory for coupling numerical and physical wave tanks is presented. The ad hoc unified wave generation approach developed by Zhang et al. [Zhang, H., Schäffer, H.A., Jakobsen, K.P., 2007. Deterministic combination of numerical and physical coastal wave models. Coast. Eng. 54, 171–186] is extended to include the second-order dispersive correction. The new formulation is presented in a unified form that includes both progressive and evanescent modes and covers wavemaker configurations of the piston- and flap-type. The second order paddle stroke correction allows for improved nonlinear wave generation in the physical wave tank based on target numerical solutions. The performance and efficiency of the new model is first evaluated theoretically based on second order Stokes waves. Due to the complexity of the problem, the proposed method has been truncated at 2D and the treatment of regular waves, and the re-reflection control on the wave paddle is also not included. In order to validate the solution methodology further, a series of nonlinear, periodic waves based on stream function theory are generated in a physical wave tank using a piston-type wavemaker. These experiments show that the new second-order coupling theory provides an improvement in the quality of nonlinear wave generation when compared to existing techniques.     

Velocity potential formulations of highly accurate Boussinesq-type models

The highly accurate Boussinesq-type equations of Madsen et al. (Madsen, P.A., Bingham, H.B., Schäffer, H.A., 2003. Boussinesq-type formulations for fully nonlinear and extremely dispersive water waves: Derivation and analysis. Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A 459, 1075–1104; Madsen, P.A., Fuhrman, D.R., Wang, B., 2006. A Boussinesq-type method for fully nonlinear waves interacting with a rapidly varying bathymetry. Coast. Eng. 53, 487–504); Jamois et al. (Jamois, E., Fuhrman, D.R., Bingham, H.B., Molin, B., 2006. Wave-structure interactions and nonlinear wave processes on the weather side of reflective structures. Coast. Eng. 53, 929–945) are re-derived in a more general framework which establishes the correct relationship between the model in a velocity formulation and a velocity potential formulation. Although most work with this model has used the velocity formulation, the potential formulation is of interest because it reduces the computational effort by approximately a factor of two and facilitates a coupling to other potential flow solvers. A new shoaling enhancement operator is introduced to derive new models (in both formulations) with a velocity profile which is always consistent with the kinematic bottom boundary condition. The true behaviour of the velocity potential formulation with respect to linear shoaling is given for the first time, correcting errors made by Jamois et al. (Jamois, E., Fuhrman, D.R., Bingham, H.B., Molin, B., 2006. Wave-structure interactions and nonlinear wave processes on the weather side of reflective structures. Coast. Eng. 53, 929–945). An exact infinite series solution for the potential is obtained via a Taylor expansion about an arbitrary vertical position z = zˆ. For practical implementation however, the solution is expanded based on a slow variation of zˆ and terms are retained to first-order. With shoaling enhancement, the new models obtain a comparable accuracy in linear shoaling to the original velocity formulation. General consistency relations are also derived which are convenient for verifying that the differential operators satisfy a potential flow and/or conserve mass up to the order of truncation of the model. The performance of the new formulation is validated using computations of linear and nonlinear shoaling problems. The behaviour on a rapidly varying bathymetry is also checked using linear wave reflection from a shelf and Bragg scattering from an undulating bottom. Although the new models perform equally well for Bragg scattering they fail earlier than the existing model for reflection/transmission problems in very deep water.     

Three-dimensional structure of wave-induced momentum flux in irrotational waves in combined shoaling-refraction conditions

In the paper, the three-dimensional structure of the wave-induced momentum flux in irrotational waves propagating over a two-dimensional, irregular bathymetry is analyzed. The expansion method developed by de Vriend and Kitou [de Vriend, H.J., Kitou, N., 1990a. Incorporation of wave effects in a 3D hydrostatic mean current model. Delft Hydraulics Report H-1295. de Vriend, H.J., Kitou, N., 1990b. Incorporation of wave effects in a 3D hydrostatic mean current model. Proc. 22nd Int. Coast. Eng. Conf. ASCE, 1005–1018.] for unidirectional waves has been extended to derive expressions for velocity components in three-dimensional waves over sloping bottom. The vertical wave-induced momentum flux resulting from this solution has been shown to be vertically-varying (contrary to the 2D-V case) and to act as a counterbalance for the vertical variability of the other wave forcing terms in the momentum equations. Thus, the total wave forcing remains depth-invariant, but—contrary to the ‘traditional’ solution based on the radiation stress concept—it does not depend explicitly on the direction of wave propagation and is a simple function of gradients of wave energy and water depth only. One of the most important consequences of this fact is the lack of the longshore-current-generating force in the case of non-dissipative waves approaching a shore with a bottom profile uniform in the along-shore direction. To illustrate the meaning of the new solution, the wave forcing due to waves approaching a barred beach has been analysed in detail. Also, the present solution has been shown to give the same results as the one obtained by extending of the approach by Rivero and Arcilla [Rivero, F.J., Arcilla, A.S., 1995. On the vertical distribution of 〈ũw˜〉. Coast. Eng. 25, 137–152.] to three dimensions.     

Linear wave reflection by trench with various shapes

Two types of analytical solutions for waves propagating over an asymmetric trench are derived. One is a long-wave solution and the other is a mild-slope solution, which is applicable to deeper water. The water depth inside the trench varies in proportion to a power of the distance from the center of the trench (which is the deepest water depth point and the origin of x-coordinate in this study). The mild-slope equation is transformed into a second-order ordinary differential equation with variable coefficients based on the longwave assumption [Hunt's, 1979. Direct solution of wave dispersion equation. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coast. and Ocean Engineering 105, 457–459] as approximate solution for wave dispersion. The analytical solutions are then obtained by using the power series technique. The analytical solutions are compared with the numerical solution of the hyperbolic mild-slope equations. After obtaining the analytical solutions under various conditions, the results are analyzed.     

Internal generation of waves for extended Boussinesq equations

It is studied whether the mass transport or energy transport is the proper viewpoint for internally generating waves in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu [J. Waterw., Port, Coastal Ocean Eng. 119 (1993) 618–638]. Numerical solutions of the Boussinesq equations with the internal generation of sinusoidal waves show that the energy transport approach yields the required wave amplitude properly while the mass transport approach yields wave amplitude different from the required one by the ratio of phase velocity to energy velocity. The waves which pass through the wave generation point do not cause any numerical distortion while the incident waves are generated. The technique of internal generation of waves shows its capability of generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear sinusoidal waves.     

A coupled-mode model for water wave scattering by horizontal, non-homogeneous current in general bottom topography

A coupled-mode model is developed for treating the wave–current–seabed interaction problem, with application to wave scattering by non-homogeneous, steady current over general bottom topography. The vertical distribution of the scattered wave potential is represented by a series of local vertical modes containing the propagating mode and all evanescent modes, plus additional terms accounting for the satisfaction of the free-surface and bottom boundary conditions. Using the above representation, in conjunction with unconstrained variational principle, an improved coupled system of differential equations on the horizontal plane, with respect to the modal amplitudes, is derived. In the case of small-amplitude waves, a linearised version of the above coupled-mode system is obtained, generalizing previous results by Athanassoulis and Belibassakis [J Fluid Mech 1999;389:275–301] for the propagation of small-amplitude water waves over variable bathymetry regions. Keeping only the propagating mode in the vertical expansion of the wave potential, the present system reduces to an one-equation model, that is shown to be compatible with mild-slope model concerning wave–current interaction over slowly varying topography, and in the case of no current it exactly reduces to the modified mild-slope equation. The present coupled-mode system is discretized on the horizontal plane by using second-order finite differences and numerically solved by iterations. Results are presented for various representative test cases demonstrating the usefulness of the model, as well as the importance of the first evanescent modes and the additional sloping-bottom mode when the bottom slope is not negligible. The analytical structure of the present model facilitates its extension to fully non-linear waves, and to wave scattering by currents with more general structure.     

Wave refraction–diffraction effect in the wind wave model WWM

Based on the extended mild-slope equation, the wind wave model (WWM; Hsu et al., 2005) is modified to account for wave refraction, diffraction and reflection for wind waves propagating over a rapidly varying seabed in the presence of current. The combined effect of the higher-order bottom effect terms is incorporated into the wave action balance equation through the correction of the wavenumber and propagation velocities using a refraction–diffraction correction parameter. The relative importance of additional terms including higher-order bottom components, the wave–bottom interaction source term and wave–current interaction that influence the refraction–diffraction correction parameter is discussed. The applicability of the proposed model to calculate a wave transformation over an elliptic shoal, a series of parallel submerged breakwater induced Bragg scattering and wave–current interaction is evaluated. Numerical results show that the present model provides better predictions of the wave amplitude as compared with the phase-decoupled model of Holthuijsen et al. (2003).     

非结构化网格下椭圆型缓坡方程的数值求解

椭圆型缓坡方程是一种用线性波浪理论研究近岸波浪传播变形的有效波浪数学模型。非结构化网格下的有限容积法不仅对复杂边界的适应性好,还能保证迭代求解过程的守恒性。建立了非结构化网格下的椭圆型缓坡方程数值模型。在模型中采用非结构化网格下的有限容积法对椭圆型缓坡方程进行了数值离散,结合GPBiCG(m,n)算法求解离散方程。数值计算结果表明,该数值模型可有效地用于模拟近岸缓坡区域复杂边界下波浪的传播。     

A note on the accuracy of the mild-slope equation

The mild-slope equation is a vertically integrated refraction-diffraction equation, used to predict wave propagation in a region with uneven bottom. As its name indicates, it is based on the assumption of a mild bottom slope. The purpose of this paper is to examine the accuracy of this equation as a function of the bottom slope. To this end a number of numerical experiments is carried out comparing solutions of the three-dimensional wave equation with solutions of the mild-slope equation.For waves propagating parallel to the depth contours it turns out that the mild-slope equation produces accurate results even if the bottom slope is of order 1. For waves propagating normal to the depth contours the mild-slope equation is less accurate. The equation can be used for a bottom inclination up to 1:3.     

Three dimensional application of the complementary mild-slope equation

The complementary mild-slope equation (CMSE) is a depth-integrated equation, which models refraction and diffraction of linear time-harmonic water waves. For 2D problems, it was shown to give better agreements with exact linear theory compared to other mild-slope (MS) type equations. However, no reference was given to 3D problems. In contrast to other MS-type models, the CMSE is derived in terms of a stream function vector rather than in terms of a velocity potential. For the 3D case, this complicates the governing equation and creates difficulties in formulating an adequate number of boundary conditions. In this paper, the CMSE is re-derived using Hamilton's principle from the Irrotational Green–Naghdi equations with a correction for the 3D case. A parabolic version of it is presented as well. The additional boundary conditions needed for 3D problems are constructed using the irrotationality condition. The CMSE is compared with an analytical solution and wave tank experiments for 3D problems. The results show very good agreement.     

A fast convolution approach to the transformation of surface gravity waves: Linear waves in 1DH

The transformation of irrotational surface gravity waves in an inviscid fluid can be studied by time stepping the kinematic and dynamic surface boundary conditions. This requires a closure providing the normal surface particle velocity in terms of the surface velocity potential or its tangential derivative. A convolution integral giving this closure as an explicit expression is derived for linear 1D waves over a mildly sloping bottom. The model has exact linear dispersion and shoaling properties. A discrete numerical model is developed for a spatially staggered uniform grid. The model involves a spatial derivative which is discretized by an arbitrary-order finite-difference scheme. Error control is attained by solving the discrete dispersion relation a priori and model results make a perfect match to this prediction. A procedure is developed by which the computational effort is minimized for a specific physical problem while adapting the numerical parameters under the constraint of a predefined tolerance of damping and dispersion error. Two computational examples show that accurate irregular-wave transformation on the kilometre scale can be computed in seconds. Thus, the method makes up a highly efficient basis for a forthcoming extension that includes nonlinearity at arbitrary order. The relation to Boussinesq equations, mild-slope wave equations, boundary integral equations and spectral methods is briefly discussed.     

Internal generation of waves: Delta source function method and source term addition method

In this study, we investigate two internal wave generation methods in numerical modeling of time-dependent equations for water wave propagation, i.e., delta source function method and source term addition method, the latter of which has been called the line source method in literatures. We derive delta source functions for the Boussinesq-type equations and extended mild-slope equations. By applying the fractional step splitting method, we show that the delta source function method is equivalent to the source term addition method employing the energy velocity. This suggests that the energy velocity should be used rather than the phase velocity for the transport of incident wave energy in the source term addition method. Finally, the performance of the delta source function method is verified by accurately generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases.     

Mild-slope equation for water waves propagating over non-uniform currents and uneven bottoms

I~IOXThe interaction between surface waves and ambient currents and nearshore topography lies atone of the heat of morphological medelling. Accurate predictions of how wave propagates overcurrents and topography, and of the consequent erosion and dePOSition of sand on a beach or tidalflat are vital when assessing how a coastline may be affected by changing conditions.The mild-slope equation was introduced by Berkhoff (1972) as a way of approximating therefraction-diffraction of linearized s…     

Effect of higher-order bottom variation terms on the refraction of water waves in the extended mild-slope equations

This study investigates how the refraction of water waves is affected by the higher-order bottom effect terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature in the extended mild-slope equations. Numerical analyses are performed on two cases of waves propagating over a circular shoal and over a circular hollow. Numerical results are analyzed using the eikonal equation derived from the wave equations and the wave ray tracing technique. It is found that the higher-order bottom effect terms change the wavelength and, in turn, change the refraction of waves over a variable depth. In the case of waves over a circular shoal, the higher-order bottom effects increase the wavelength along the rim of shoal more than near the center of shoal, and intensify the degree of wave refraction. However, the discontinuity of higher-order bottom effects along the rim of shoal disperses the foci of wave rays. As a result, the amplification of wave energy behind the shoal is reduced. Conversely, in the case of waves over a circular hollow, the higher-order bottom effects decrease the wavelength near the center of the hollow in comparison with the case of neglecting higher-order bottom effects. Consequently, the degree of wave refraction is decreased, and the spreading of wave energy behind the hollow is reduced.     

Transient response of harbours to long waves under resonance conditions

This paper presents the results of a study aimed at quantifying the time–response of harbour basins to long waves under resonance conditions. On the basis of numerical simulations reproducing long waves in the yacht harbour of Rome (Ostia, Italy), it shows that the results valid for periodic forcing waves, acting for an infinitely long time, as those provided by models based on elliptic equations like the Helmoltz and the mild-slope equations, can be misleading with respect to the more realistic ones that can be obtained using time-varying wave equations. Taking advantage of the similarity between the processes studied here and a simple one-dimensional resonator, a method is also proposed to roughly estimate a time–response parameter of each mode of the harbour, using results from steady-state numerical model results, commonly applied for studying harbour resonance in engineering practice. On the basis of further numerical simulations, aimed at reproducing schematic harbour layouts, the effect on resonance of the position of the entrance and of an outer harbour is studied. The results indicate that the effects of design solutions to reduce resonance, by placing the entrance at the middle of the harbour, or using the outer harbour as a resonator, can be correctly evaluated only when considering the time needed for the oscillations to fully develop.     

A numerical model for wave propagation in curvilinear coordinates

Using the perturbation method, a time dependent parabolic equation is developed based on the elliptic mild slope equation with dissipation term. With the time dependent parabolic equation employed as the governing equation, a numerical model for wave propagation including dissipation term in water of slowly varying topography is presented in curvilinear coordinates. In the model, the self-adaptive grid generation method is employed to generate a boundary-fitted and varying spacing mesh. The numerical tests show that the effects of dissipation term should be taken into account if the distance of wave propagation is large, and that the outgoing boundary conditions can be treated more effectively by introduction of the dissipation term into the numerical model. The numerical model is able to give good results of simulating wave propagation for waters of complicatedly boundaries and effectively predict physical processes of wave propagation. Moreover, the errors of the analytical solution deduced by Kirby et al. (1994) [Kirby, J.T., Dalrymple, R.A., Kabu, H., 1994. Parabolic approximation for water waves in conformal coordinate systems. Coastal Engineering 23, 185–213.] from the small-angle parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation for the case of waves between diverging breakwaters in a polar coordinate system are corrected.     

Scour below marine pipelines in shoaling conditions for random waves

This paper provides an approach by which the scour depth below pipelines in shoaling conditions beneath non-breaking and breaking random waves can be derived. Here the scour depth formula in shoaling conditions for regular non-breaking and breaking waves with normal incidence to the pipeline presented by Cevik and Yüksel [Cevik, E. and Yüksel, Y., (1999). Scour under submarine pipelines in waves in shoaling conditions. ASCE J. Waterw., Port, Coast. Ocean Eng., 125 (1), 9–19.] combined with the wave height distribution including shoaling and breaking waves presented by Mendez et al. [Mendez, F.J., Losada, I.J. and Medina, R., (2004). Transformation model of wave height distribution on planar beaches. Coast. Eng. 50 (3), 97–115.] are used. Moreover, the approach is based on describing the wave motion as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. An example of calculation is also presented.     

非结构化网格下近岸波生流数值模拟

波浪破碎产生的近岸流是近岸海域关键的水动力因素之一。基于近岸波浪的椭圆型缓坡方程和二维近岸波生流方程,建立了非结构化网格下近岸波浪破碎形成的近岸流数值模型。数值模型中,在空间上采用有限体积法进行数值离散,在时间上采用欧拉向前格式数值离散。数值计算结果表明,该数值模型可以有效地模拟近岸波浪破碎产生的近岸流。